This Old Trap House: Wonk Saggin Edition

[Dirty_habiT]

Bureaucracy mother fuckers!

[mr.yuck]

50 minutes ago, Dirty_habiT said:

Bureaucracy mother fuckers!

People justifying their jobs.

[fat ralphy]

@Merceris an electrician I think...

[KILZ FILLZ]

This is what my front door door jamb looks like where the deadbolt secures. what are my best options here? Moving the deadbolt up or down the jamb to a new location isn’t an option because that would mean a new front door. I would prefer to not replace the LH jamb. 

 

im thinking maybe fill the hole with JB Weld and bore out a void for the deadbolt, or a small rectangle of wood secured in there somehow? 
 

[mr.yuck]

Yeah that kind of repair is a pain in the ass. Id fill it with bondo like you said. That shit is really tough to work with though. You would have to mortice the patch so that your striker plate sits flush with the jamb or your door might catch on it.

[~KRYLON2~]

Fill that hole in with some epoxy. Obviously the right way to fix if is to just replace the door jam, but sometimes you gotta just say fuck it.

[One Man Banned]

yer door been kicked in before

[KILZ FILLZ]

Thoughts on taking the easy way out? Would use extra long wood screws. 
 

@mr.yuck

@~KRYLON2~

@One Man Banned

 

 

 

 

edit - carpentry Reddit is telling me to fill with toothpicks and wood glue 

[mr.yuck]

I like what ever that mega big striker plate is. If you shoot some 3 inch screws in there and tie that thing into the stud, some one might break their foot trying to kick your door in.

 

Toothpicks and wood glue would work as well. You really just need something new for the threads to bite down on.

[One Man Banned]

2 hours ago, KILZ FILLZ said:

Thoughts on taking the easy way out? Would use extra long wood screws. 
 

@mr.yuck

@~KRYLON2~

@One Man Banned

 

 

 

My thought  is an exterior door into your home "should" IMO be as strong and secure as possible, and that means buckling down and replacing the door jamb.  A deadbolt is a security measure and you want it secure in something with structural integrity, not splintered wood.   

 

If you're determined not to replace the jamb I'd pick that extended length latch strike, but I'd still use something to fill some of the space behind it.

[SMdoubleXL]

I was gonna say to at least start with hella long screws.

but something to secure  them into as theses smart boys have indicated. 

That’s all I got haha 

 

 

but for real. Living solo for a long time -I’ve always replaced the deadbolt screws, in any living situation, to long ones. 
 

carry on gentlemen. 

 I’m glad it’s moving forward @mr.yuck

[Ko SprueOne]

@KILZ FILLZGo with the larger striker plate.

 

Your idea using epoxy putty to repair the damaged screw thread purchase surfaces is also valid.

I recently did a similar repair of a door jamb. I used plumbers epoxy putty stuffed into the damaged area. While the epoxy was curing, I placed the striker into position after it was wrapped in plastic wrap (Saran Wrap). This will not stick to the epoxy *. The screws were dipped into liquid soap then screwed  into the door jamb , through the still curing epoxy. This allows the screws to be removed and replaced later if needed. The soaped threads act like a tap to create a thread through the epoxy.

If you use the larger striker plate then this method should be used around the holes nearest the bolt hole because that area looks damaged.

 

Side note: We've replaced the entire door jamb with 1/4" steel L-beam stock for an entry door for better security.

 

* I've used this method for shoring up a set of replacement plastic rifle grips for a friend. No more rattle.

 

 

Edited November 28, 2020 by Ko SprueOne
espellin'

[KILZ FILLZ]

Went the easy route using 3” wood screws. Ended up doing both locks.  Replacing the jamb is a task I’m not excited about tackling and the front door isn’t the major weakness for the property, that’s prob be the ancient sliding glass door around back. 

 

 

 

For the sake of posterity, this is another route that was presented to me. But these are for jambs that have no shit been kicked in and are still in pieces. 
 

 

 

Thanks for the input yall

@mr.yuck

@One Man Banned

@SMdoubleXL

@Ko SprueOne

[mr.yuck]

@KILZ FILLZ

The best cure for that slider is to cut down a section of wood closet rod to length and throw it down in the door track to block it from being able to slide.

 

I was also looking at "These things right here" as an option for kick proofing a house.

Edited December 1, 2020 by mr.yuck

[KILZ FILLZ]

Just now, mr.yuck said:

@KILZ FILLZ

The best cure for that slider is to cut down a section of wood closet rod to length and throw it down in the door track to block it from being able to slide.

 

I was also looking at "These things right here" as an option for kick proofing a house.

Man that’s usually my go to move but this one is weird. I think they installed a door designed to slide LH to RH in a position where it slides RH to LH. That rail that you can usually put the broom stick in is on the exterior! I can’t even put one of those lil twist window locks on the thing... right now it has a about a 2 1/2” pin for added security... whack. However, I have a very good homie who is a window guy that I’m sure can hook it up. Just not sure how much I need to get HOA involved since it’s exterior and how that’s gonna affect the under table homie hook up I have in mind. 
 

 

[mr.yuck]

@KILZ FILLZInteresting, man. I would look into what the HOAs responsobilities are. Also check if they were the ones that replaced the door the last time. If they did, ask them what the fuck this nonsense is about and tell them you need a door that you can lock properly. Lol. That shits funny though.

Edited December 1, 2020 by mr.yuck

[Dirty_habiT]

That sounds weird af like they installed your sliding glass door backwards @KILZ FILLZ.

[LUGR]

21 minutes ago, KILZ FILLZ said:

Man that’s usually my go to move but this one is weird. I think they installed a door designed to slide LH to RH in a position where it slides RH to LH. That rail that you can usually put the broom stick in is on the exterior! I can’t even put one of those lil twist window locks on the thing... right now it has a about a 2 1/2” pin for added security... whack. However, I have a very good homie who is a window guy that I’m sure can hook it up. Just not sure how much I need to get HOA involved since it’s exterior and how that’s gonna affect the under table homie hook up I have in mind. 
 

 

You are probably right about the install. I have seen numerous brand new windows and sliders (that passed inspection by an engineer lol) installed upside down, backwards and all sorts fucked up by contractors claiming they were installed correctly.

 

Are you in a condo/townhouse?

[Ko SprueOne]

The stick in the track method is actually easily defeated. I'm wondering if I should reveal this in an open public thread. However we use this on three windows in the house because the cat still has not figured it out. If we leave the house tho, the windows get closed and locked.

[Ko SprueOne]

1 hour ago, KILZ FILLZ said:

Man that’s usually my go to move but this one is weird. I think they installed a door designed to slide LH to RH in a position where it slides RH to LH. That rail that you can usually put the broom stick in is on the exterior! I can’t even put one of those lil twist window locks on the thing... right now it has a about a 2 1/2” pin for added security... whack. However, I have a very good homie who is a window guy that I’m sure can hook it up. Just not sure how much I need to get HOA involved since it’s exterior and how that’s gonna affect the under table homie hook up I have in mind. 
 

 

 

Funny, this is the very next home improvement project for us because the previous owner installed it upside-down as well. The door slides outside.

 

That through hole bolt is actually very secure. Yes, if they just break the glass then they can just walk in. True, but that would make noise and is work on the intruder's behalf. My Dad told me to always be more difficult than your next door neighbor. True sht right there. They see sht in the way at your pad, they go next door instead.

 

See picture attachment. This is installed at the top.

 

 

[mr.yuck]

1 hour ago, Ko SprueOne said:

The stick in the track method is actually easily defeated. I'm wondering if I should reveal this in an open public thread. However we use this on three windows in the house because the cat still has not figured it out. If we leave the house tho, the windows get closed and locked.

Im curious. Every one of these ive ever had i cut wood that fits down into the groove of the track. But I am always curious about new ways to get back into "my own" house (wink wink) should I ever lock myself out (nudge nudge).

[KILZ FILLZ]

@LUGRyep exactly

 

@Ko SprueOnealways be more difficult than your neighbor is something I learned though cycling lol. If a bike thief walks up to a rack and sees your bike nice and secure, they’re gonna move on the the next one with nothing but a cable lock on it. Works really well for homes too but I never put it together like that. So sounds like you’re a believer in this pin system? Also curious how to defeat the dowel system. 

 

@mr.yuckman, looking at this thing, it’s probably original from 1970. It’s not even tempered. 

@Dirty_habiTyea caught me off guard when I first noticed

[One Man Banned]

21 hours ago, Ko SprueOne said:

The stick in the track method is actually easily defeated. I'm wondering if I should reveal this in an open public thread. However we use this on three windows in the house because the cat still has not figured it out. If we leave the house tho, the windows get closed and locked.

 

I mean, an open public thread on a pro vandal website.  You can youtube most of this shit and I don't think you're exactly giving away the keys to the city by revealing this, plus you may be helping oontzers protect themselves better.  I had to up my home security game and learn some shit a while back.  Sliding doors/windows are super easy to break into and I'm assuming you're referring to simply popping the door out of the track.

[Dirty_habiT]

I'd say glass in general is not secure unless you ponied up for security glass..... which is expensive af.  Better option IMO is to not use windows on the 1st floor, have a wrap around deck on the 2nd floor and huge windows up there.... I told this to someone and they said it sounded like a guard tower lol.

[ndv]

Not trying to deter.  But honestly the thing is, security just keeps the honest honest.  Of course it does have a purpose and at times works. But honestly, if what you have is valuable to someone else then they are going to be determined to get in, they will. 

 

Think about it, regardless of tech amd mechanical engineering, people still rob banks, rob convent stores and so forth.  

 

With that said, I still think these tools help but honestly, I'd rather have a dog on the other side of the door ready to greet whomever is determined.  The last thing most home invaders want is an animal, specially a large dog.   

 

Anyhow,  I am a little rusty on the home security prevention thread considering I have been out of the business permanently, and plus burglary of habitation doesn't look good on the resume.

 

But seriously tho, the truth is, if someone is determined to get in, they will, criminals are stupid, and they careless about getting caught due to the compulsive behavior.  

 

Then there is the fore thought.  You can have all of the security you'd like, but there's always that Trojan horse known as befriending someone.

 

Don't get me wrong, its a lot tougher to get into homes these days you will at least need to know some type of tech background in the disciplines of hacking and or jamming. 

 

I was getting into houses when I was 12 or 11?  Can't remember.  Didn't steel anything, it wasnt the point for me, it was more so the excitement and intrest I grew fond of in guinienly defeating mechanics (locks) and alarms.  

 

So the thing is even tho tech has evolved so have criminals.   Tech is easier to cheat as in jam.  But mechanics can be simple and very tough to breach.   Think vault doors.  Which spun a thought that has crosses my mind here and there. 

 

I thought about machining home doors with the concept in mind that law enforcement apparatuses (vehicles) may not be able to breach.  @Dirty_habiT  you're a machinist, so you understand tensile strengths and that would rule out 17-4 and pretty much all stainless.  Toughmet maybe, but think P550 thru P850.  This material is insane hard.  Machinability is extremely tough, which is why I personally think P series material is a stable for the long haul.  

 

But anyhow,  like I said I am not trying to discourage anyone interested or gearing up financially to increase your abode security for an extra peice of mind.  But always understand if someone wants it bad enough they will at least try.  

 

Apologize in advance for any paranoia I may have caused. 

 

[LUGR]

@KILZ FILLZ You definitely need to consult the HOA and should dig into your association’s owner documents to determine what you can and can not do. Some associations have very specific requirements for window and door installs that must be approved by the board of directors and/or designated committees. If your window hook up meets the contractor requirements to work at the property, the product meets insurability requirements and the exterior of the building remains uniform, you should be able to make whatever deal you want with your friend.

[mr.yuck]

1 hour ago, ndv said:

 

Apologize in advance for any paranoia I may have caused. 

 

 

Have you ever seen video of swat hooking the winch on their truck in a window and  tearing the front of a house off because they couldnt get in the front door. Those MFers are psycho.

[mr.yuck]

2 hours ago, Dirty_habiT said:

I'd say glass in general is not secure unless you ponied up for security glass..... which is expensive af.  Better option IMO is to not use windows on the 1st floor, have a wrap around deck on the 2nd floor and huge windows up there.... I told this to someone and they said it sounded like a guard tower lol.

I saw an aftermarket product that might interest you. Its a film that goes over glass and basically turns it into a windshield. I think you would really have to commit to smashing your way through.

[ndv]

3 minutes ago, mr.yuck said:

 

Have you ever seen video of swat hooking the winch on their truck in a window and  tearing the front of a house off because they couldnt get in the front door. Those MFers are psycho.

 

No,  I haven't seen that. 

 

However I thought about that as well.  

 

So here's my idea of a structurally solid home.   Think of a birdcage amd how its wires run vertical and horizontal.  

 

Well that that concept with 6" round bar 40' 50' long  drive the rods in the ground about, wrap (weld/bolt) the other rods around the home essentially creating a cage then in case you walls around the rods. The window frames and doors would all be weld and bolt anchored to the rods.   Basically structurally engineer it where you could test the structural integrity by the means of a military tank.  

 

Got the funds to do so.  I'd say that trap house would be the last trap house law enforcement could conventionally breach so to speak. 

 

Esentually you would fortify your home. 

 

Which fortify reminds me of the pensmore estate.  

[Mercer]

On 11/16/2020 at 10:25 AM, mr.yuck said:

Dear electricians of 12oz,

 

I have been on pause for months now trying to get permits straight on my house. The building permit is straight but they are holding me up on electrical. The person that physically does the permits is just a paper pusher and has no practical knowledge on what is going on. They are no help to guide me on how to fill this application out. I have made attempts to call the electrical inspectors but they are never in the office, nor do they return calls.

 

The lady says my applications are ready for approval as soon as I can properly fill out their boxes.

 

I am completely replacing all of the wiring on the second floor and installing a 100 amp sub panel to hook it all into and then running the 100 amp panel to the main 200 amp panel in the garage. Help me out. Which one of these boxes do I check?

 

 

This refers to the code followed for the installation, IRC is international residential code, NEC is National Electric code

 

https://www.iccsafe.org/products-and-services/i-codes/2018-i-codes/irc/

 

https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/all-codes-and-standards/list-of-codes-and-standards/detail?code=70

 

If you're doing this installation yourself you'll need to follow one standard, or the other. The work (depending on your local AHJ) may need to be inspected by a local official, and it will be inspected to that standard.

 

I'm pretty familiar with NFPA 70 (NEC) and even certified in it by NICET (level 3) and can look stuff up for you if you've got code questions. IRC will almost certainly be easier to comply with, unfortunately I've never done any type of residential electrical engineering (legally), and don't have access to the codes/reference materiel.

 

Knowing this you should be able to google any questions like "how many feet before the wire needs to be supported IRC", or height of electrical outlets NEC, etc.