This Old Trap House: Wonk Saggin Edition

[mr.yuck]

Yes. I have updated drawing. This is upstairs. Switch to the right, wires and light no longer exist. Were removed for demo.

 

Switch on the left has wires and works the light downstairs. There is another black mystery 3 wire that has no current running through it. Its not hooked to anything right now.

 

 

[mr.yuck]

Wooooo. Brain straight smokin lookin at all these diagrams.

 

@Mercershould I just tear out the ceiling downstairs tomorrow so I can trace all of these existing lines? Its like everything in this joint was run with 3 wire to jump constant power to another location in the house.

 

[Mercer]

I wouldn't bother. Just cap it with a wire nut, and wrap it in electrical tape.

 

I'll try to draw a diagram when I'm back at my desk later.

[mr.yuck]

Youre the man. This is the last thing in my way keeping me from hanging drywall in the hall way and being done with that phase.

[Mercer]

[mr.yuck]

That is sexy.

[Dirty_habiT]

I see you like the one liners. 

[Dirty_habiT]

@Mercer- what are your thoughts on those two way male plugs that you're not supposed to make to feed power to a houses circuit with a generator. 
 

I've heard this can kill a lineman that is working on the wire upstream somewhere.

[Mercer]

Yea, that sounds dangerous AF @Dirty_habiT. You could mitigate some of that safety issue by shutting off your disconnect, or removing your meter first, but even then that isn't how you want power your entire house. It might work in an absolute emergency but def isn't worth it.

 

If you can't install a solar/battery setup, the next best thing is a dual fuel (natural gas/propane) generator installed by a licensed electrician. Next best is a generator with extension cords to the fridge/furnace etc. I'd still go with propane for a fuel source because it's safer for your lungs, and safer/more reliable to store longer term as a fuel for as long as your tank(s) stored are outside. Keep in mind, during a shit hit's the fan situation all petroleum based fuels are extremely prone to supply chain issues. Your best bet is a solar/battery system, unless you have a reliable source a bio fuel and the means to produce your own diesel.

[Dirty_habiT]

Nice info.  It is as I thought. Extremely dangerous. Oh yeah no shit. Isn't that cord called a suicide plug or dead mans plug or something?
 

I'm really interested in diesel generator in combination with just about every other form of energy generation and storage including solar.

 

I want to use closed loop steam in a pressurized vessel/solar radiator to turn a turbine when a valve is opened. 

[mr.yuck]

Update opperation just put it back together: I need more money

 

Been a little bit since I updated. Im rained out of work today so I have some time to get busy. 

 

Rooms are in various stages of finishing mud work. Eventually all rooms will be brought up to a level 5 finish where the entire walls will be whited out. If you only finish the seams, but joints and nail heads as pictured below, when the sun light comes in through a window and shines down your wall you will see a difference in the smooth texture of the mud and then the rough texture of the drywall paper.

 

 

[Dirty_habiT]

I used to do "fine finishes" with an hvlp gun. Anything you can feel with your hand you will be able to see when it's painted. You would definitely be able to feel the texture difference as you described.

[mr.yuck]

1 hour ago, Dirty_habiT said:

I used to do "fine finishes" with an hvlp gun. Anything you can feel with your hand you will be able to see when it's painted. You would definitely be able to feel the texture difference as you described.

 

That was the biggest problem I had with the old men that used to work for me. They didnt want to wear glasses to work so they would miss sanding shit all the time. I couldnt get them to use their hands either. Apparently they had been doing this since I was in diapers and I  couldnt tell them shit.

[mr.yuck]

Before work update

 

Walls are at level 3 ceilings are level.2.

 

 

[mr.yuck]

One more coat on the seams and then this bad boy is ready for its final skim coat.

 

 

 

Close ups on this mud work ti show some defects

 

 

 

You could trim your finger nails between the knife blade and these seams

 

[mr.yuck]

Its a monumentous day. Its the last piece of drywall y'all. 

 

 

 

 

USA

 

USA

 

USA

[mr.yuck]

Also found this set of french doors in the attic that I am going to frost the glass on and use as pocket doors into the master closet and master bath.

[KILZ FILLZ]

Gonna make some dope closet doors!

[mr.yuck]

1 hour ago, KILZ FILLZ said:

Gonna make some dope closet doors!

 

Gonna send them to the garage with the old lady and turn her loose on getting all of that lead paint off those bad boys.

[mr.yuck]

PS @MercerI ended up having to call in an electrician. I wasnt even asking you to draw me up the right thing. I also ended up tearing out ceilings downstairs chasing wire trying to figure out where the power was coming from. On the plus side I hooked up all of my own switches and outlets and have a much better understanding of home wiring.

[mr.yuck]

Also I got some bum advice when I first started wiring this hooker. I ran 8 gauge wire to feed this sub panel. That wire is only rated for 40 amps. So for the first time since I started I will be working backwards to replace with 4 gauge wire and get my sub panel up to 60 amps.

 

I hate having to google behind people. Luckily I'll be out of this shit I have little to no knowledge on really soon.

[mr.yuck]

New service wire installed

 

 

Started trimming out some windows this weekend. My windows were too deep for regular window sills. I settled on cutting down stair treads to make the window sills.

 

 

[Mercer]

Constantly lurking this thread, now I don't want this project to end.

[mr.yuck]

@Mercernot to worry. As soon as Im done upstairs Im moving downstairs to do the same shit. Then when I sell this mofo, I might keep this thread going as the jump off to document the building of my rental empire. 

[mr.yuck]

Here's a little step by step on the sill construction.

 

Step 1: Get your inside measurement 

 

 

 

Pro tip: Dont forget to take your pictures upside down for maximum confusion 

 

Step 2: add 8 inches to inside measurement to get overall length and cut your stair tread down to length

 

 

Why add 8 inches and how do you know you need to add 8 inches? There is a little bit of simple fraction math involved but it basically deals with the width of my window trim which is 3 1/2" and my jamb material which is 3/4" leaving a reveal of 1/4" where the jamb and trim meet. There will be 4" on each side of the sill that the window trim will sit on. 

 

Step 3: mark out your 4" from the outside edge of the tread. Pull another measurement from the rounded tip back 1 3/4". 

 

 

 

Step 4: Nothing in this house is even so there were some other fractional cuts I had to make. I wont bore anyone with the details. Also I have no way to describe what I did. Anywho, cut your 4" pieces out and dry fit your sill in place.

 

 

Step 5: Damn thats a nice fit homie. Check it out from this angle.

 

 

If you were running the land lord special, this mofo would be done. But you arent gonna get top dollar for the land lord special.

 

You are going to want to cut your sill legs back at a 45° angle along that dotted line I drew for you.

 

 

Once you have your sill cut back... STEP 7...

 

Measure from the wall to the tip.of your sill and cut you a little triangle piece of sill at 45°

 

 

STEP8: Flip the little triangle piece around 12 different ways until it fits right and you have a nice rounded window sill all the way around

 

 

And that's it. I ran out of material and had to go to the store. I will pick this back up tomorrow.

 

 

 

 

[Schnitzel]

That's the post of the day right there.

 

As soon as I saw the pic i realised I'd never thought of that ( rounded corners part)

 

That is getting kept for future use.

 

 

[mr.yuck]

@Schnitzelthe devil is in the details. I do returns on the ends of my skirt trim that goes under the sill as well. It's been slow going on these windows because I tried to cheat a step on my initial framing. Its not locked together like it sould be so its warping and cupping instead of just being able to slide my trim in and nail it, im having to shim everything so that it doesnt pitch back or forth on a curved surface. A complete window in normal circumstances shouldnt take more than an hour. Im getting 2 of these done in a day.

[mr.yuck]

First things first: Do all of your shimming off camera. Its boring. 

 

Next step is to install your top jamb piece. Like so

 

 

Next you need to cut and measure your side jamb pieces. If you cut them a hair long they will lock in the top and bottom pieces tight.

 

Careful when cutting through knots. They will come loose and fall out.

 

Side note: This is why I hate Home Depot and Lowes. Here is a side by side comparison of clear pine from a lumber yard and what ever lowes has to offer on the right.

 

 

The inferior corporate conglomerate wood was more expensive. I could have bought clear pine from Lowes but it was $10 a linear foot. If you dont know about pine prices... thats fucking outrageous. 

 

Anywho. Luckily that little knot didnt go all the way through the board and I was able to hide the chunk out on the back side.

 

 

Those side jambs above are pretty tight. The one on the right top could be a little better but

 

"caulk and paint will make you the carpenter you aint!"

-some dick head painter on the job when caulk was invented

 

Step next: Measure from the outside of your left jamb to the outside of your right jamb

 

 

since both sides of my jambs are 3/4" thick and I want 1/4" reveal on both sides I subtract 1 inch from the total measurement. This number is the 2 short points on the trim. In order to find the long points you need to know how wide your trim is. Mines is 3 1/2". Oddly enough you just multiply the width of your trim by 2 (7" for me) and add that to your overall length.

 

I make marks on my jamb for my 1/4" reveal

 

 

 

It helps me line up my first piece.

 

When I put that first piece up i only shoot one nail in the middle that way you can adjust the left or right up and down a hair if need be when installing your side legs.

 

measure cut install your side legs and try not to nail at an angle to keep your nails from hooking out the face of your jamb.

 

 

next up is the skirt trim. This ones easy. 

Pull your tape from the outside of your legs to get your measurement.

 

 

Stand your trim upright. Cut the ends at 45° angles. The face of your trim should be longer than the back. The long points will be your measurement you took. Install.

 

 

 

When cutting your returns its easy to get screwed up if youre just going at it. So an easy trick to remember is if you are cutting a return for the right side of your window trim, you cut from the right side of your trim and turn your saw to the left (45°)

 

 

 

 

 

And thats a window

 

[Schnitzel]

 that's awesome.

I kind of wish I had a window to put in!

 

 

 

 

[Mercer]

Those trim cuts are spank materiel. I'd definitely struggle especially if you're using shims. Have my first compound miter saw now. Haven't done anything tricky (yet) with it, more or less just using it as a chop saw. Once I'm done with my yard project I'll be doing some interior work, much more carpentry required.