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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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I put these tags up with my Garvey Mop well over a year ago and they can't buff them. The only thing they buffed were some of the drips. They can't paint over it. Otherwise, it would show through and then they would have to repaint it all the time when other writers use just regular ink. So all you need is Garvey and a good Mop.

picture018.jpg

picture022.jpg

 

 

Links to other photos.

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture026.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture032.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture031.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture023.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture020.jpg

 

Maybe I will post my mop and other stuff I use to bomb with. I am not an artist and I never was...I just like to bomb shit with markers. I used to love doing the insides. You can bomb the whole line of cars, not get busted or freeze and people had no choice but to look at your tags while riding the train the whole time they were on it.

 

Peace out! :innocent:

 

Edit:

The "RZ" tags were done with an OTR Flow Pen (really an empty "arerosol art" Bombing Marker filled with Garvey & I used a Miniwide as well...with Garvey)

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My mops and some other stuff. The mop pictured below is an Arrid XX deodorant containter with a "wide" chalk board eraser strip (nip) folded in half and stuffed into the container with violet garvey and I have another one made the same with a round show polish container and an eraser strip folded in half with red garvey ink and these mops are wide and drippy as hell and HARD TO BUFF.

Then I hae links to few pics of my bombing supplies. I have sold alot of my ink and miniwides and other supplies to some young writers that would get better use from them in my area in Manhattan. But, I kept enough Garvey, Marsh and some Krink to last me for a long while. :king:

 

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picture045.jpg

 

Links to pics at a better angel

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture047.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture049.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture050.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture048.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture046.jpg

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture035.jpg

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Originally posted by getlost@Mar 2 2005, 03:38 AM

Where can you find fiebings at? Ive looked around but cant find it.

 

You can get Fiebings on the link below. But, Fiebings is not all that.

I am going to be blunt...I have been bombing for 25 years and I know some of you dudes want to mess around with mixing up different ink and other stuff you think will make your ink better...like using "fish oil." You are just wasting your time.

All you need is a good mop, miniwide or a flowpen and some good ink and use it "as is."

If someone is going to be on a mission to buff your tags...they are going to buff it no matter what you use. Weather they scrub it or simply paint over it. If they want it gone it's gone.

 

However, there a few basic inks and tricks to make your tags last. A good mix is take white marsh paint ink and put half red, blue or violet garvey, it makes a fresh color and it will have the staining power of Garvey and the Marsh Paint ink will make it not fade. I have a tag I did on a street lamp with orange Marsh in 1982 and it looks like I did it only a month ago still to this day...it has been through all types of weather in NYC for 23 years and still standing (the don't make orange marsh anymore or the other 100 colors they used to have during the real graffiti days).

 

So, just use straight Marsh or Garvey or even Pilot ink and bomb. Of course for outside tags, paint type ink is the best and I have alot of success with a mixture of white marsh paint ink and garvey. I would say two thirds white marsh and one third violet garvey and shake and bomb. For drips, make the nib on your mop kind of loose and you will be the drip master. On my red garvey mop...the drips go all the way down to the floor and it looks like blood and it is very hard to buff. So, just stick with the good stuff as I said before...if the chemists at the Garvey company thought they could make their product more permanent they would. Right?

Fiebings Leather Dye...Click Here

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Originally posted by THEPOSTWHORE5000@Mar 4 2005, 02:23 AM

omen, i've looked everywhere for those arrid deodorant containers, and i cant find them anywhere, i found other arrid products, and they said the exact some thing as your stating that mop is made out of, yet it is a completely different shape..its a lot wider and skinnier much like other deodorants....

 

You are right...the Arrid ones I have are almost impossible to find. The ones I have, have a ring that holds the ball on and you can pop off the ring and the ball comes out and you can pour out the deodorant, wash it and dry it and then hook it up. I racked like 20 of them that still have deodorant.

You can still get them in a few places...I racked mine at Target and a supermarket. I am even using them as deodorant...Lol

But, I will save the container.

 

The other containers...even the ban roll ons are one sold piece of plastic with the ball and they suck! I started with Ban roll on and they were glass and had that plastic ring you could pop off. Now, they are one piece of plastic and a ball and when you remove the ball...there is a tiny opening, no good to stuff an eraser in. Just keep a sharp eye out.

 

Here is what you can do...you can make the same type of mop like the arrid with the shoe polish applicator, take that bullshit foam rubber nib off...pour our the shoe polish and clean it and dry it and pour in your ink and take an eraser strip, fold it in two and shove it in. You want to get the round 4oz that has the white chalky shoe polish to use. If you have the wide strip eraser..take a hack saw and cut the opening down a little. Otherwise, the regular size eraser strips will work very well.

 

Here is the shoe polish mop that you can rack anywhere with red garvey...it is drippy and fat...I put black tape around it and it is almost as nice as the arrid.

Click on link to see it.

 

http://img16.paintedover.com/uploads/16/picture035.jpg

 

Edit,

 

These are the type of erasers you need to make mops. The first link shows the 6 strip wide eraser...good for 6 mops...I used this type for the arrid mop and the second pic is for the mop in the above pic, it is the regular strip eraser and it is very good..also good for 6 mops. If you really want good ink. Get the "pigmeant" ink from the marsh company. It comes in alot of colors including violet and it will last forever outdoors, it will never fade. You can get quarts for about 20 bucks (not pints...quarts). They have quarts of the dye type ink as well in blue, green, red, ultraviolet, etc; for about 17 bucks. You have to go heavy if you are serious about bombing. These little pilots are about nothing (they are good if your taking a shit in a public restroom in school or the movies). But, a mop is for serious bombers. You want to use mops that are wide drippy and have pigmeant ink so you can tear shit up. You get a few quarts of marsh pigmeant you will be unstoppable. Just make sure you have some erasers to make real NYC bombing mops.

 

http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/gr...Inch-Eraser.htm

 

http://www.misterart.com/grouppix/280x210/2000/g2500.jpg

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Originally posted by dyel@Mar 4 2005, 05:48 AM

anybody know where i can get sum of those erasers from in england.or even an english website or an american one that post them to england.

 

thanx

go to a college or school near you. just walk around looking for classes with chalk boards (not dry erase boards) and in rooms where there are chalkboards there will be erasers.

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Originally posted by Shogun_Assassin@Mar 4 2005, 08:57 AM

I read somewhere on here that you could add aluminum dust for shines. Where in the hell can ig et that? someone please tell me.

 

goto somewhere that would have some... like a hardware store that cuts keys, and ask for the dust shavings (they're only going to throw them out anyway), or perhaps a place that cuts pipes or metal sheets, and ask for the shavings... i think most places that cut keys are brass though but still, brass filings will look cool.

 

i love when Omen comes and lays shit down. Mixing inks from scratch is pretty much always a waste of time, but mixing premade inks usually works out good... the only exception is ink additives, like dot 3 or methylene blue, oxidizers, etc., since they add power to the ink... (of course ink doesn't come premanufactured with this stuff, because it'd be too dangerous).

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Adding more oomph to inks by using xylene/additives is generally

a good idea, especially when you're messing around with euroinks

like the new Nero and Corio as they don't come even close to Garvey

(there are some industrial inks that come close but they are hard

to find as a private person and in small quantities (small from a industrial view that is)).

 

The only "scratchbuilt" ink i ever got satisfied with was the acetone/pp/gv

solution, it had the nasty violet tone of Garvey (perhaps a bit darker even)

and the same stickyness (that makes corio etc seem like watercolour).

The main purpose of throwing it together in the first place was due to

shipping costs/customs when you order Garvey to Europe and wanting

a purple ink with staining power (all the local kids are rocking Nero and

get blue stains that only stand 3 buffs or so, so you easily get sick off

blue inks).

 

But as Omen Two pointed out buffs are a 2stage rocket, first you

need a powerful ink but it is still important to use either a really

juiced up flow or mop to deliver the payload, a thick layer of ink

will give it more time to stain and the first buffs most of the time

only smudges the top layers leaving the layer closest to the surface

you are crushing in business.

 

You always need to use your head while improving premade inks,

even if you heard from someone that adding fish oil would improve

the buffresistance of your ink it wouldn't do that much of a difference

compared to chemical counterparts, and don't be lazy, even if you

manage to come by a allout destruction ink quantity keeps your

name up longer than quality, there's nothing worse than people

just sneaking up tags at places they know they will leave ghosts

on, you have to hit all other areas too to really destroy shit.

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Originally posted by technikal@Mar 4 2005, 06:17 PM

DAMN OMEN thats one hell of a ink stash, where do you get your garvey from? Im thinking of ordering my from http://www.artprimo.com unless you had a better suggestion.  P.S. how well do you like the otr flowpen ink. Thanks.

 

 

I have like 12 pints of garvey. I have 6 in violet 3 in red and 3 in blue. I had cases of it. I got off the Garvey company itself. But, they have a $25 minimum and I don't think they sell pints anymore. I have a business account with them and was getting it by the case load. It was a good investment. Because, I was selling each bottle for an even $20 or 2 for $30 and the young writers in my neighborhood bought it up along with a bunch of miniwides and some other stuff that I had too much of.

But, if you are looking for a deal I suggest you go to Art Primo. I am good friends with them ask for Mari (Mary) tell them Dave from New York suggested you buy it there. They have good prices for it. Now if you are looking for some heavy duty Pigment ink from Marsh you can

get it by the quart. The have the Violet in Pigment for good prices and you can get the dye type Marsh in a lot of colors by the quart or pint at this site below). I have an account with them too, you can't go wrong with heavy duty pigment ink by Marsh. Not to mention their dye type ink. Mix some Garvey in it and you have the staining power of Garvey and it will not fade in the sun. Even the black Marsh pigment is great...the prices are good too. You can get the Marsh 99 metal valve pen for $9. Other sites sell the same pen for up to $25. It is always better to go to the source. But, Art Primo is your best bet if you want some Garvey. I was the one that turned them on to selling it. I told them there was a huge demand for it. Now they sell it at good prices.

 

@Shogun_Assassin

 

For that aluminum dust...don't bother. It will ruin your nibs and make it so your ink flow sucks. It gets caked up in your ink and messes up everything. It is not worth putting anything you don't need in your ink. Unless you want to learn the hard way.

 

For the real deal Marsh...Click here

 

Edit:

 

As for the flowpen ink, it is what it is. I got a deal on alot of OTR paint markers. They are cool. But, I would not buy their ink to refill them. I would use other ink. "Hard To Buff" is just words they made up to give you the illiusion that it is good stuff, it is OK. But, there is much better out there and it is a rip off to buy those little cans of ink O.T.R sells. As for the Dye type Flowpen ink, like the violet dye flowpen ink. I would pass on it. In fact I emptied it and put in violet garvey instead. You are just better off getting empty "aerosol art" Bombing Markers and putting your own ink in. They are the same as O.T.R's just a different name on them (they are made by the same company), even the nibs are the same.

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Originally posted by yeaaaah baby+Mar 4 2005, 03:32 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (yeaaaah baby - Mar 4 2005, 03:32 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-dyel@Mar 4 2005, 05:48 AM

anybody know where i can get sum of those erasers from in england.or even an english website or an american one that post them to england.

 

thanx

go to a college or school near you. just walk around looking for classes with chalk boards (not dry erase boards) and in rooms where there are chalkboards there will be erasers.

[/b]

 

you don't get chalkboards in british schools.

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Originally posted by dyel@Mar 4 2005, 01:48 PM

anybody know where i can get sum of those erasers from in england.or even an english website or an american one that post them to england.

 

thanx

 

"Real" Chalkboard erasers are very hard to find anywhere. Trust me. You can't find them anywhere. Because, they are so rare.

 

Read what is said on the link below about the erasers...Click on the "Read All Reviews" and find out how hard they are to find how and rare they are.

But, for $1.07 an eraser that can make 6 mops...you can't beat it.

 

http://www.misterart.com/store/view/001/gr...Inch-Eraser.htm

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Originally posted by technikal@Mar 4 2005, 07:26 PM

THANKS OMEN. :king: what about krink oh wait let me guess your kr himself, just kiddin. But really do you order your krink off the website that stuff can be a Grip!

 

To be honest I got my krink for $5 a bottle down in the lower east side of manhattan at this record store. When I walked in, they could tell I was not a Toy and I know KR from back in the days. So, they gave me flat rate prices...no tax.

I have 4 bottles left...I got rid of the rest for more than I paid for it and I have this large 32oz bottle at my mom's house that I paid $20 for.

But, if you order on the web ..it is not worth it. The krink mops are whack. You can get the exact same container from the 4oz shoe polish bottles for free (if you rack them) pour out the shoe polish and pour in your krink. You can use that cheap foam rubber nib or use a real mob eraser nib for crazy drips. Those foam rubber nibs fall apart easy and get stuck on things. The eraser nibs go over everything and are fat. :king:

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So whats the big hype on krink anyhow? I have seen pictures of it and maybe seen it in real life but cant tell if it was krink or just rusto thinned out with maybe some brake fluid. Is krink really good in your opinion? or do you just see it as an old school trick that kr is retiring off of?

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Originally posted by technikal@Mar 4 2005, 08:04 PM

So whats the big hype on krink anyhow? I have seen pictures of it and maybe seen it in real life but cant tell if it was krink or just rusto thinned out with maybe some brake fluid. Is krink really good in your opinion? or do you just see it as an old school trick that kr is retiring off of?

 

To be honest Krink sucks (no offense KR). But, it is not all that. If I did not get a good deal on it. I would not have bought it. If you leave it in your marker/mop it starts to dry up and it can ruin a good marker. You have to constantly shake it. But, it is nice ink if you are going to bomb with it right away. I just like having it for the hell of it.

Now, in the 80's they used to have silver ink madeby marsh and by flomaster, it came in 4oz containers...it worked just like regular ink, it came in pigment and you could put it in miniwides and it would not dry up on you. If had a better flow than krink...it was very thin...so the drips were crazy. Krink is alot thicker and not as good. But, being they no longer make silver pigment ink anymore...you have to go with the paint type silver or krink. :(

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Originally posted by Gates@Mar 4 2005, 08:48 PM

type in the name of that eraser he posted in google and about a thousand links should come up that sell it...atleast one will ship them to where you at

 

Click on the names of the two erasers to view them and when you decide on the one you want...copy and paste the name and put it on google and you should be able to get them sent to the UK from some site.

 

SCHOOL MATE Republic Standard 5 Inch Eraser

 

QUARTET Chalkboard Eraser

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check this out. might want to give this a try adding this to your mop:

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/display...oductNum=fa0114

(i haven't, but i plan to sometime, after i get this Garvey everyone talks about being so permanent.)

 

btw, i have a question. which is more permanent Garvey Violet or Garvey Black? Or are they the same, just different colors?

also I am wondering whether or not Garvey is fine by itself, or if adding Marsh, Feibings, and DOT3 will give it much more permanent properties?

 

thanks.

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Originally posted by icetray@Mar 4 2005, 10:11 PM

check this out. might want to give this a try adding this to your mop:

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/display...oductNum=fa0114

(i haven't, but i plan to sometime, after i get this Garvey everyone talks about being so permanent.)

 

btw, i have a question. which is more permanent Garvey Violet or Garvey Black? Or are they the same, just different colors?

also I am wondering whether or not Garvey is fine by itself, or if adding Marsh, Feibings, and DOT3 will give it much more permanent properties?

 

thanks.

I wouldn't add that varnish to my garvey or any of my inks. Violet garvy is more permanent than black from what i have seen. You could add dot 3 to your gavey but just a few drops it may help and may not, on painted surfaces it should help. You can add marsh pigments to your garvey as omen already said to help the ink last longer in the sun/weather. I wouldn't add feibings since garvey by it self stains harder than fiebings therefore it would be pointless in my opinion. Just read what omen has said he will steer you in the right direction. And for garvey just leave it alone it will stain hard as fuck by itself.

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Originally posted by icetray@Mar 4 2005, 10:11 PM

check this out. might want to give this a try adding this to your mop:

http://www.michaels.com/art/online/display...oductNum=fa0114

(i haven't, but i plan to sometime, after i get this Garvey everyone talks about being so permanent.)

 

btw, i have a question. which is more permanent Garvey Violet or Garvey Black? Or are they the same, just different colors?

also I am wondering whether or not Garvey is fine by itself, or if adding Marsh, Feibings, and DOT3 will give it much more permanent properties?

 

thanks.

 

They are both hard to buff. But, the violet is a little better...Also, it has that eletric color. Black is black. As far as mixing to make Garvey better...there is no point and it is a waste of time. Just leave it alone. Mixing other stuff in it can mess up the orignal components of the formula. That RAZAR tag I posted above only got darker when they tried to buff it and they used everything they could think of. That stall had tags on it before I bombed it with my Garvey Mop and the only tags that stayed and got darker were mine. The rest were buffed. So, just leave your garvey alone. However, Garvey can fade in the sun like all dye type inks. So, if you want to mix something with Garvey...use white Marsh Pigment (paint ink) and mix it with the Garvey. It has the staining power of Garvey and the Pigment will not vanish in direct sunlight...it will last for years. Other than that...just use the Garvey straight up and use it in a mop so it goes on thick.:)

 

Edit:

@technikal

 

You beat me to the punch and posted while I was typing...You said the right things. Just leave it alone and if you want to add something...add white pigment marsh. It is a fresh color and will last. Other than that, putting anything else in will just screw up the orignal formula and waste and ruin your ink. Violet is slightly better in regard to staining...it is the same with other compinies that make purple or violet ink...violet just stains well and the best is Garvey and that is the bottom line!!!! :king:

 

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