INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

[straightedge]

anyone ever try this japanese sumi ink? they have it at michael's and i got a few bottles. haven't tried it out yet, but just seeing if anyone else has.

[Grimace]

Originally posted by shai hulud+Sep 30 2005, 06:14 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shai hulud - Sep 30 2005, 06:14 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-MAR@Sep 29 2005, 09:22 PM

Hey shai id love to see a recipe, pm me if you can.

Quoted post

Here's my latest black ink recipe...it's simple, but the inks I'm using right now are difficult if not downright impossible to find. Some of them are on the Web, though, so if you are good at finding stuff there and persistent enough, you can find them or adequate substitutes.

 

Here it is- I'll explain what each ink is, and what I think it does for the mix. A big hint I can give you is that I only use industrial grade, solvent based stamping inks...That's what all these are sold for, so if you find a good commercial rubber stamp source, you're in. As far as bluffing them into thinking you're legit, that's entirely up to you.

 

Two parts Marsh T-Grade, black- for stencilling boxes and crates. I use this for its flat black color, and the drips.

 

One part Garvey XT-70, black or violet- old school pricing gun/cash register ink- obsolete and hard to find. This is the stain.

 

One part Aero Specialty ink, black- another commercial stamping ink that's acetone based. Rare, and expensive (about $32/pint). This adds opacity, and the acetone evaporates quickly so the ink dries faster.

This is one of my all-time favorites, and highly recommended.

 

Mix all three in a glass bottle by shaking it for a few minutes. Then I add a little japan drier to help it mix and to speed drying.

 

There you go..good luck with finding some of that stuff. BTW, every ine of those inks work really well alone, so don't dump full bottles of them into a batch...I usually make this out of small quantites of leftover ink. Sometimes, other ink goes into the batch, but the first three are the ones you really need to find to copy this mix.

 

Sometimes, I'll add Fiebing's USMC black leather dye for a stain if I have it, but it's also hard to find. Be creative, and don't mix water based ink with solvent inks. That's the biggest rule that no one seems to cover.... :rolleyes:

Quoted post

[/b]

 

 

Hey man if you still have some of that garvey I really need some so pm me and we can work something out asap. Thanks for the usefull info too I haven't used one shot before but im going to check it out looks like it beats rusto.

[Inhalant]

anyone knows abuot indian ink? i was walking in my local craft shop and seen it didn't know it if was good or not. my boys told me it's for tats but i wanna know about pen/mops. alright then.

[FriedGreentomatoes]

indian ink sucks

 

does anyone has tips for cheap inkt, because my marker does use lots of ink and i dont want to by ink for 8 dollars

[shai]

Quickly, before I go to the store...

Hey man if you still have some of that garvey I really need some so pm me and we can work something out asap. Thanks for the usefull info too I haven't used one shot before but im going to check it out looks like it beats rusto.

Quoted post

Sure thing. I have a few bottles left, so either PM or email me. Let me know if you have anything good to trade, besides spray paint- I just came up, so I'm probably set till the new year for cans.

 

 

Originally posted by Inhalant+Oct 1 2005, 01:17 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Inhalant - Oct 1 2005, 01:17 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>anyone knows abuot indian ink? i was walking in my local craft shop and seen it didn't know it if was good or not. my boys told me it's for tats but i wanna know about pen/mops. alright then.

Quoted post

[/b]

It's waterbased, but it looks nice. I use it for drawing, myself. It works in any clean pen or mop....You can bomb with it, but when it gets wet, goodbye tags.

 

 

<!--QuoteBegin-FriedGreentomatoes@Oct 1 2005, 04:26 AM

indian ink sucks

 

does anyone has tips for cheap inkt, because my marker does use lots of ink and i dont want to by ink for 8 dollars

Quoted post

When you said eight bucks, what kind of ink were you talking about? That's not a bad price if you get at least a half pint of solvent based ink.

 

 

 

The cheapest thing to use is Griffin black shoe dye. It is universally available, and costs two bucks and change. It's thin enough to use in pens, alcohol-based, and it's one of the most underrated stains out there. It also has a wand built into the cap, so you don't even need to use a pen.

 

 

This is my favorite. Four bucks for four ounces, same as Griffin, and it stains even harder. Look for it at a shoe repair shop, and try to get USMC Black. That's the one...black is fine, too.

[Inhalant]

that leather dye...........do i just throw it in. no need no special stuff? good for pens or mops? stains last for a "WHILE"? shoots. thanks again shai hulud.

[brasse hed]

i find violet is the hardest staining feibings colour, blak leaves a nice ghost and navy blue is poop and fades on its own.

[religion]

Yo Shai, I've used lots of Nero, and done alot of mixing and it just seems to water down shit. Definetly not for outdoor use. Think of staight Violet garvey outdoors in sun and rain, exept it fades 50% faster. Also when mixed it with black t-grade it just seems to dilute it with fadeablility. I've heard nothing but good shit about it for insides though. It's just seems like black leather dye to me. In any case, Fiebings is better and cheaper. I perfer a 30% Garvey / 70% Marsh mix anyday.

[religion]

Now if only I could find some PP or GV in Canada. Everywhere I've gone says its been discontinued because safer alternatives are available now. ??? :confused:

[TeezerPHM]

violet fiebigs is the hot shit. shit looks almost like garvey (the color of the purple, but not that much) but, i found that there needs something added to it to make it hold up for longer

[flip words]

are there any stores that you guys know of that sell inks? ive ganked a lot of crap ink from office depot but those inks arent really that good. its some off brand shit and i wanna step up to the professional marsh, griffin, or garvey. ive looked in michaels, a local art store, officemax and still cant find shit. the only place i can find it is online and i dont got no credit card for that kinda shit. any info will help. thanks & peace.

[CACashRefund]

walgreens should have griffin

[5iveDee]

Has anyone fucked with sanford eternal ink? I added some to my pilot, they couldnt buff it as easy but it still came off

[shai]

Flip, if you send me a few bucks to cover a bottle and postage, I'll send you some (4 oz.) ink to try out. Since you aren't too far from me, it should get to you pretty quickly. Think about it, and PM me if you want to do that. I literally have a couple gallons of ink sitting in the studio, and there's no way I'm gonna run out soon.

 

Shoe repair shops have the Fiebing's dye, usually. It's not an ink, nor is Griffin- they're for redying leather shoes. The Fiebing's is professional grade, and comes in something like three dozen different colors. And, it's dirt cheap.

[_nightcrawler]

Anyone know how to make a good stainer using sandford blacktop stampad ink, Artline ink and pilot ink? Iv searched this thread alot of times but i havnt found the answer to my question.

please help because i got a shitload of those inks at my workplace! lol! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:

[panakeii]

Religion

 

Try to find a local chemical supplier, it's often

easier to get good grade PP/GV from them instead

of trying to find stores stocking it.

Google is your friend here.

[nozaki]

9 parts gold metalic american accents oil based bucket and 1 part mineral spirits in a stamp pad eraser. that's the real shit.

[nozaki]

oh yeah...i've never added pot.perm. to my ink, but i add ferric nitrate to my violet xt-70 and that works extremely well.

[TeezerPHM]

when i added potassium perm. to an ink before that shit got hot an started like boiling a little.. what did i do wrong an what should i add it to instead? what about this an leather dye?

[religion]

Thanks panakeii, I think I may have found a place locally, I'll post my results. Better than XT-70 Vilot Garvey??? I hear this is the best (potassium permanganate).

[shai]

Originally posted by nozaki@Oct 2 2005, 12:17 PM

oh yeah...i've never added pot.perm. to my ink, but i add ferric nitrate to my violet xt-70 and that works extremely well.

Quoted post

How did you come up with ferric nitrate? That's pretty clever, but dangerous. I know photographers as an etching ground for doing silver plates, but I never would have thought to add it to ink. How did you handle it safely? Was there any kind of reaction to the solvent in the ink? And, have you gotten it on your skin, if so, what happened?

 

Before anyone considers doing this, be warned- FERRIC NITRATE IN SOLUTION IS EXTREMELY TOXIC AND HIGHLY CORROSIVE. This is the MSDS for ferric nitrate in solution....bad shit. They use nitric acid to make the solution...and, NITRIC ACID WILL KILL YOU if you inhale it. Basically, all you would have to do is inhale the fumes for a couple of minutes for your lungs to hemorrhage, and you would drown in your own blood...you'd be better off playing in traffic than doing home chemistry with it. So, I don't recommend using the solution to anyone. I really don't want to hear about "some kid who died making graffiti ink he learned about on the Internet..." You could kiss 12 oz. goodbye after that, and then read about the lawsuit shortly afterward. It doesn't take much these days to wind up getting fucked in court. I work at a law firm that does nothing but defend corporate liability cases, and while I am no fan of most of their clients, reading the cases makes me realize that most Americans are litigious to a fault, even when their own stupidity is the real issue. In plain Engish, that means DON'T FUCK AROUND, JACK. In powder form, this stuff isn't as bad, but it's still a strong oxidizer so you should wear gloves, goggles and a mask as a precaution. I KNOW everyone here doesn't use etch, but let's just say, in theory of course, that you would want to keep it off of your skin. But, you know, I heard it from my cousin, who was talking to his best friend's baby momma's roommate's stepbrother's neighbor, and you know HE doesn't lie.

 

I'm gonna get off the subject here for a couple of paragraphs. Someone thanked me the other day for posting here and said he appreciated that I took the time to add useful information to the thread. (BTW, you're welcome.) There's two reasons why I do this. First, and foremost is because it finally dawned on me that there's a bunch of kids with no chemistry experience mixing toxic chemicals together out there, and the law of averages dictates that it's only a matter of time before some jackass does some jackass thing that burns his house down or lands him in the hospital. It only takes one time, people! And, I'm not cracking on anyone who has found out about this the hard way...the reason it happened is not due to malice or negligence (I hope), but plain old ignorance. Sure, we're all vandals, but burning down your house while making buff-proof ink is not gonna get you the kind of fame you want. And, I don't care how charming you think you are, just try explaining THAT one to your family or your roommates. I realize that these are worst case scenarios but I watched my friend "accidently" paint his ceiling after he heard that boiling cans reduces the pressure in them...true story. I can laugh about it now, but my first reaction when I saw his kitchen covered in red paint was to head for the fucking door. I'm sure there are plenty of stories like that out there, but you rarely see them here.

 

Also, I'm old enough now to realize that although there are rules, and everyone who ever told me how to make or do something graff-related always said, "Dude, don't tell anyone about this...", I doubt that there's going to any repercussions from me sharing what I know on a message board specifically intended for graff information. Most of those people have moved on considerably by now, and I'm sure that they wouldn't mind. Also, I want people to benefit from my experience, no matter who they are or what their motivation is. Toys need to learn somewhere, too...and, although I think the Internet shouldn't be the first place to learn from, for some kids it's their only resource. If they are willing to put the time in to learn, who cares?

 

When I started, I learned by hanging out with older writers, who explained that respecting history, developing my own style, and making the tools of the trade were all equally important, so I paid attention to every detail. One thing I learned over the past 16 years of watching the graffiti soap opera is this, though- 90% of the writers who are pushing quality and quantity in graff forward are white boys from the suburbs who could have just as easily gotten into comic books or advanced calculus if they didn't have this strange, ego-driven obsession with being good at writing on things. In other words, they're nerds, just like me, and a lot of them are too concerned with bombing and trying to keep a low profile to be thugs. Thugs tend to get noticed more, and by and large, graff thugs seem to be the ones who get caught, even though they get the best spots. Drama is certainly part of the game, but it's not something that ever impressed me as much as seeing a clean handstyle on a hot corner. And, when it's done by someone who I've never met after seeing them up consistently for years, that increases my respect for them tenfold.

 

I don't really care about competition, or understand it, either. What's the point? Who's keeping score, anyway? And, isn't beauty in the eye of the beholder? I did something like 15,000 clean tags and a hundred or so straight letters in 18 months, and got my fame on. I didn't battle anyone, really...there's plenty of walls to do your thing on if you aren't lazy. Then, one day, I stopped. I'm not sure why...motivation was part of it. I guess I said enough to get noticed and dealt with both the good and bad sides of it, and decided to move on to other things. I might make another appearance, if the spirit moves me. Who knows?

 

Well, that's it. I've definitely rambled enough for one night. But, I was meaning to say this for a while, so if you were wondering, now you know. Good night..

[MC P.]

I have a lot of respect for that, you are honestly one of the chillest guys on here, i havent talked to you much... but any question ive asked youve answered, and even if it was stupid you were never rude or condescending and thats a breath of fresh air over here in the land of sarcastic pricks. So yeah, thanks. By saying you stopped..are you saying you dont write anymore, or just not like that quantity?

[panakeii]

TeezerPHM

 

This reaction usually occurs due to the fact that

the potassium permanganate is very basic and

something in the ink you added it to is very acidic.

Acid+base == Not the best friends and will

generate heat when mixed.

 

Potassium Permanganate + Glycerine is a great combo too,

as some of the local buffers have witnessed (their

buffing solution contains a glycerine among other things).

[flip words]

ay shai, tell me how much and ill ponder on it. mmm...garvey

[shai]

Flip- I'll PM you later once I see what I have got...I'm not at home now. It won't be straight Garvey, though, it will the mix I use, which has Garvey and about 8 other inks in it.

 

MC- No one ever quits 100%. I've gone from 30-150 tags a day to about, I don't know, 50-100 tags a month, maybe?

 

My most active period lasted six months, and I probably went out every night for three months in a row. It was insane, but I was living in a city that was pretty easy to get over in at the time..it was in a transitional period for graff, and me and about 10 others ended up kicking the door wide open. Now, it's kind of blown out...but, I'm going out a little more every day lately, so....

[shai]

...oops, I was on a computer at the library, and got cut off.

 

Anyway, I can't say for sure what the future holds. I know that I am a unique case as far as most writers go...I didn't start getting up till I was 28, but I had been involved in graff in some way for half my life. So, I think I came into it knowing more than most people on the come-up. I planned my campaign out, and knew what I wanted to do and what to avoid, too. I stayed out of the scene for as long as I could, but, one day, the scene found me...soon after that, it stopped being fun. All the mystery was replaced with drama at that point, not for me so much as who I was around...cops, drugs, fights, gossip, haters, shady ex-girlfriends, jealous toys...and, so I moved on.

 

Now, I'm almost 32. I have a decent job, a great girlfriend, and finally got my own place for the first time in years. I also want to start a business soon, write a book, and work on my fine art along with comic art. Graff may have just been a sidebar, since I think I would like to get fame in other areas...but I'll always incorporate some graff into all my work. Tastefully...I mean, I'm not gonna sell t-shirts. Look here to see one of my projects. It may surprise you.

[taper]

whats the best thing to use to make my marsh t grade ink more unbuffable?

[shai]

Originally posted by taper@Oct 4 2005, 11:40 PM

whats the best thing to use to make my marsh t grade ink more unbuffable?

Quoted post

 

I don't use T-grade by itself. I just use it as an additive now.

 

Even though I kind of freaked out when I first saw it, I really thought the ferric nitrate idea was on point. Before you do anything with ferric nitrate, however, read this first. It's the MSDS for ferric nitrate, and will give you an idea of what you can expect. Take it seriously, please.

 

I looked around to see if turpentine is reactive with ferric nitrate, and apparently, they use the two together for patina work- I wasn't clear on whether there's any actual mixing of the two involved, so be warned.

[TeezerPHM]

i picked up some procolor ink today, and try to find it on the internet but they keepsaying that this company makes ink catridges (spelling) for printers. i did the smell test an its either highly alcoholic or acetone base. its pretty in the middle for consistency, maybe a little thick but just enough.its dries and seeps into surfaces a little slow and i havent tried to buff it off with goof off yet. oh yeah and what made me spend 10 bucks on 4 ounces of ink? i couldnt rack from the spot and the color is "ultraperm opaque black" so i knew it was good. any way to make it dry faster or a way to make inks seep into surfaces more? i <3 deep stains

 

and shai is a mad chill ass dude. big ups

[taper]

Originally posted by shai hulud+Oct 5 2005, 06:26 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shai hulud - Oct 5 2005, 06:26 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-taper@Oct 4 2005, 11:40 PM

whats the best thing to use to make my marsh t grade ink more unbuffable?

Quoted post

 

I don't use T-grade by itself. I just use it as an additive now.

 

Even though I kind of freaked out when I first saw it, I really thought the ferric nitrate idea was on point. Before you do anything with ferric nitrate, however, read this first. It's the MSDS for ferric nitrate, and will give you an idea of what you can expect. Take it seriously, please.

 

I looked around to see if turpentine is reactive with ferric nitrate, and apparently, they use the two together for patina work- I wasn't clear on whether there's any actual mixing of the two involved, so be warned.

Quoted post

[/b]

 

 

besides using that toxic ass shit is there anything else? unlike other people on this board i dont wanna fuck around with shit like that when im not 100% sure what im doing.