Fruitcake

yes glass bottles can hold any kind of ink, but its pretty fucked if you drop it and it breaks, i guess you would ruin your sneakers

no one gives a shit what your ink will do to that mop man. does that even make a contribution? so what if your ink will eat through it man? then don't make it. dont waste bandwidth and time trying to rack up posts for some gay comments. on the other hand, although that mop would be pretty easy to make, its gay as hell. its huge for one, the cap is huge and wont even stay attached, and how are you supposed to even have decent control of it if it's filled with ink/paint and you have to use it. the ink would splash around inside. try a smaller bottle with a cap man. that shit is whhhhhaaaackkkkk!!! p.s. i do applaud you for the effort and relatively original idea despite how inconvenient it is. i'm not here to start shit...except maybe with fruitcake if it's necessary, but it's not. e-beef is bullshit, but no more gay ass posts. Quoted post just shut up bitch, i gave a description of how to make a killermarker that can hold all kinds of ink and can be refilled and has a cap a few pages earlier, so i gave my contribution

my ink will eat right thru that bottle and will give quite a mess

the traincompany has special stuff to very easily remove montana and belton or any other paint, that stuff doesnot work on ink and i want my tags to last so i need a huge marker

that stuff costs 50 euro for a liter, i havent found a shop yet where they sell the t1000 (so you can rack it) just the t100 and thats just a few tags and its gone, edding used to make very good ink untill they had to remove the xyleen/tolueen now its still okay but not very good anymore

i hit the train at the station, the drips that go straight down are from when i ve just put them on and the other ones are from when the train drives away at highspeed, the marker delivers A LOT of ink so it will drip for a while

your welcome, they have the tubes in 4 inch or 10 cm also, but thats a bit too much, its pretty difficult to handle and it just uses way too much ink, the 3inch is pretty expensive to tag with allready, so i made a smaller one 2inch also

okay here goes, i made a huge marker out of plastic parts from my local hardware store, the tubes are 3 inches (7,5 cm) so the tip is has the same width, i only like markers with round tip, they dont sell them so i made my own. There is some foam from an old couch and an old sock in it as the tip, it takes about 200ml of ink for the foam to get all soaked and the reservoir can hold about 300ml of ink. I can take off the top part of the marker if i need to refill, its sealed by a rubberring so no ink can leak out. It doesnot have a pumpsystem because it really doesnot need it, the foam has a lot of ink in it so when you put a little pressure on it, drips will be the result. I use it mainly to tag on trains with some ink (a mix of grog, corio, marsh, gv etc.) and they cant or hardly buff it :D the marker, the result: after the buff: i am posting this here because i ve learned a lot about ink from the ink recipe superthread :)

ah, i am not familiar with that stuff, i will rack some and see if that works, thanks, it maybe works with gv also but my target is dark blue/purple, they keep buffing my silver marker tags, i want something longer lasting, i m also looking for some stuff that will remove the colour from coloured plastic so my tags will be white after the chemical did its work

on the train it gets dirty by itselfe and the stuff they use to buff graffiti isnot made for glue, the stuff gets so hard they have to chizzle it off :D i dont think it will work with dye because the glue is pretty thick and wont mix with ink/dye, it will just float on it.

i ve been doing some tags with glue on trains, the glue attracts a lot of black dust, so when the glue hardens its pretty dark and really really difficult to remove, has anyone tried glue with pigments?

u should make a small hole in the cap so it doesnot create a vacuum and suck the filt out when you take the cap of, see if that works, i usually seal the hole with a bit of tape .

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a few more dutch ones, looks familiar chore?

if you put indian ink in with other ink it will fuck up the flow of your marker, the other ink will not flow thru the velt tip anymore and you can throw away your marker, at least thats my experience with it.

I ve also bought the grog ink, i live in europe so for me it wasnot a big deal to get it, i just mailed the guy and he send me a box. About the ink, its really black stuff, it can be quite easily buffed when its applied on painted surfaces, but it cannot be removed from the plastic that they use inside trains, subs etc. It also cant be removed from i am not sure what the english word for it is but i call it nature stone, and marble and stuff like that. I think its nice ink. I also found a factory that makes ink for the leather industrie so went there and i bought some bottles, the guy that sold me the stuff said i could get pure leatherdye which i had to mix with a solvent to a 1/9 ratio, offcourse i wanted to use the stuff pure and i mixed it with some grog and started bombing. It rained the same night and all the leatherdye stuff pretty much rained away, turns out it really needs the solvent for it to become waterproof, i am still trying to get the ratio just right so it cant be buffed or at least leave some nasty stains. the factory i bought it from is http://www.stahl.com/html/intro_frame.htm they also have a distributor in the usa, i bought ink form theyre LD-59 series. I dont know if anyone else here knows about theyre inks, but i ll keep you informed about my findings.

some nice panels here, especially the finnish stuff :)

how about the dot4 has that the same corrosive stuff in it as dot3 has?