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Originally posted by CACashRefund@Sep 2 2005, 04:12 PM

Im not 100% sure but i think bleach will only work to make your ink more toxic. Staining power? I really doubt it. But if someone has more knowledge on the matter please share it.

Ive used nail polish as a substitue for thinners, rubbing alcohol as well. It works, but if you have thinner or acetone use that.

the active ingredient in bleach is sodium hypochlorite (lye). i don't think it would have any purpose as an additive. i do know that it is notoriously unstable, and if you mix it with certain chemicals (ammonia, aluminum compounds) it can fulminate (create chlorine gas), and that's enough of a reason not to try it. one thing you could do with bleach is put it in an old, cleaned out paint pen and experiment with it...i made some cool t-shirts this way. i guess you could get up on awnings....dark wood...seems interesting, but i'll leave it to someone else to try out.
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well me and my homie were graffin it up and he got this wooden bench thing and the ink mixture got up in there pretty good. and earlier tonight i hit up a yellow street sign and when we drove past it, the headlights lit up the sign and i could see that the bleach soaked into the sign and significantly stained the sign. so that shit will not come off even if buffed 2-3 times. all i mix in with the bleach is dot 3 brake fluid and im pretty sure thats not a toxic mix. if someone tells me that it is toxic, fuck bleach. haha but ive had good experiences with bleach. i was just experimenting on the leftover ink i had anyway. oh yea, another reason why i wanted to use bleach was to lighten the color of the ink. it worked, too. i mixed it with some blue and when that shit dries, it dries an aqua-ish blue. so yea, bleach aint all that bad, i think.

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Originally posted by flip words@Sep 3 2005, 01:11 AM

well me and my homie were graffin it up and he got this wooden bench thing and the ink mixture got up in there pretty good. and earlier tonight i hit up a yellow street sign and when we drove past it, the headlights lit up the sign and i could see that the bleach soaked into the sign and significantly stained the sign. so that shit will not come off even if buffed 2-3 times. all i mix in with the bleach is dot 3 brake fluid and im pretty sure thats not a toxic mix. if someone tells me that it is toxic, fuck bleach. haha but ive had good experiences with bleach. i was just experimenting on the leftover ink i had anyway. oh yea, another reason why i wanted to use bleach was to lighten the color of the ink. it worked, too. i mixed it with some blue and when that shit dries, it dries an aqua-ish blue. so yea, bleach aint all that bad, i think.

as far as the bleach additive, it's your call. but, i still don't understand the whole brake fluid thing. i took a fair bit of chemistry a million years ago, and still i read up on it now and then. as far as i can tell, dot 3 brake fluid is mostly a compound called

ethylene glycol, which is an antifreeze. here's a chart i found....

 

TYPICAL PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES PENNZOIL® SUPER HEAVY-DUTY BRAKE FLUID TEST METHOD TYPICAL RESULTS

Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point-447°F

Wet E. R. Boiling Point-294°F

Kinematic Viscosity@ -40°C cSt @ 100°C 1.9 cSt

pH-9.7

Effect on Brake Cups @70°C-None

Effect on Rubber @120°C-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization

Low Temperature Appearance-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization

Water Tolerance-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization

Compatibility with Other-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization

DOT 3 Brake Fluid Oxidation Resistance-Excellent

Corrosivity-Nil

 

the two things that interest me are pH and corrosivity. the corrosivity is listed as nil, and, at 9.7, the pH isn't high enough to do much. here's a pH chart for comparison.

 

pH Conc. H+ Example

0 10,000,000 Battery acid Most acidic

1 1,000,000 Hydrochloric acid

2 100,000 Lemon juice

3 10,000 Orange juice

4 1,000 Acid rain

5 100 Black coffee

6 10 Saliva

7 1 Distilled water Neutral

8 0.1 Salt water

9 0.01 Baking soda

10 0.001 Milk of magnesia

11 0.0001 Ammonia solution

12 0.00001 Soapy water

13 0.000001 Oven cleaner

14 0.0000001 Liquid drain cleaner Most alkaline

 

however, bleach (lye, same ingredient as oven and drain cleaner) has a very high pH, at 13.0. and, if you put undiluted bleach directly on your clothes, it will burn holes in them pretty quickly. so, i think that must be what's eating into the signs, unless there's a chemical i missed in brake fluid, or some kind of interaction with the ink you're using i didn't know about. oh, btw- in addition to being careful with bleach, don't add potassium permanganate to ethylene glycol. this link will show you why.

 

Potassium Permanganate Hypergolic Reaction To Ethylene Glycol

 

seeing as how i overlooked the basic properties of bleach, i'll do a little more research later to see if there's something i missed with brake fluid, then post what i find here. and, in case i bored anyone, sorry... but, if i can prevent someone from blowing their face off, it's worth it.

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That are some strange numbers and the corrosivity

is propably for that brand product only, you can ask

anyone that has a car about DOT3 and they will tell

you that it is very corrosive. Before i began to use

xylene it did the best work in inks as far as eating

into paint and plastic surfaces.

 

I personally don't think you should throw

bleach inte your ink, i have yet to see a

ink that has gotten meaner from adding

bleach. Although bleach on it's own is

usable to throw in a kiwi mop and bleach

the fuck out of public transportation seats,

mainly because it makes buses/trains look

VANDALIZED. One of the first commanments

of the religion called bombing should be

FUCK SHIT UP. But if you bleach shit just

to get fame and don't go around bombing

shit hard otherwise it's just lame.

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In one of my inks i use really high concentration

of PP just because the local buffers use an anti-

graffitisolution containing glycols, thus leaving

a burnmark in the middle of the ghosts and

making buffers fear and respect tags instead

of their usual ways of just pouring antigraffiti

solution all over the place without hesitation

(which also is flammable, very bad combo).

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Originally posted by those_faces@Sep 4 2005, 04:05 PM

hows indian ink work?

should i mix something with it?

it'll work, but it's not cost effective or permanent. you could add liquid rit dye, but... get something solvent based- look around at some sites that sell graff supplies. if you want to use a water based ink, here's a recipe i came up with to paint with- i wanted an ink i could use in the studio that wouldn't make me dizzy, and still have the same drips and opacity of what i use on the street.

 

here it is-

 

2 parts sumi ink (for japanese brush painting- it's cheap and all art stores have it)

1 part black fluid acrylic (make sure it's FLUID)

1 part black liquid clothing dye

a spoonful of powder copier toner (optional, it flattens the finish)

 

put it all in a bottle and shake it for a few minutes, then let it sit for a bit to let it settle. put it in a clean pen.

 

you could bomb with this, but if it gets wet it'll fuck up, plus it's easy to buff. also, go back through this thread and look at some of the other stuff people use, if you haven't already.

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I posted this elsewhere a few days ago, but it applies better here...

 

etch bath is hydrofluoric acid. here's a link with info.

 

RISK ASSESSMENT: USE OF HYDROFLUORIC ACID

 

i wouldn't use this stuff even if you paid me. and, the idea of someone using it who has no idea how dangerous it is is sobering, to say the least. think about etch being to graff the same way steroids are to baseball- of course, there's short term results, but you know it's wrong... plus, you'll get caught someday, and your teammates won't like you in the meantime since you make them look bad too. it's just better to leave it alone, i can't stress that enough. it's done more to hurt graff than further it, since 90% of the time, it's small business owners who get hit....because, generally, people who etch windows don't care about the rules of engagement, like leaving mom and pops alone. and, it usually costs $1500 to $3000 to replace a plate glass window. that's an automatic felony, right there. so, if i haven't talked you out of it by now, please don't bring it up on this thread again. thanks.

 

The link works in the marker mod thread, if it doesn't work here.

 

Etch is for suckers and is SO 2001. Every time I see it I lose respect for the writer that does it.

 

Also, no hotting up of the thread, por favor. The mods will eat your face off. Stick to ink, and have a nice day.

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Originally posted by destroya+Sep 7 2005, 10:15 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (destroya - Sep 7 2005, 10:15 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-CACashRefund@Sep 7 2005, 12:54 PM

You can make etch but you need to have knowledge of chemistry.

 

i thought that went without saying.

[/b]

 

Unforunately some people arent that bright and believe they can make it using household chemicals.

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Etch isn't complicated at all, it's one chemical....one super gnarly, don't-fuck-with-it-under-any-circumstances chemical...

 

I'll tell you how to make ink...READ THE FUCKING THREAD.

 

Then, if you have questions, ask. But, you can't be lazy in here, around me anyway, and expect to get anywhere. I will give you a hard time, but only to get you motivated and prove me wrong. Be careful about what you mix, too.

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Originally posted by asitseems@Sep 9 2005, 10:15 PM

is it possible to take the ink out of my printer and use it and will it be easy to buff?

 

the ink in your computer will fade in like a week. like the flyers that you see on walls that are the color of the paper with nothing written on them after a week. and if you want, get one of the refill kits for your printer and use the syringe to get it out.

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