alloverthetown Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 That bike is sick... honestly though that paint won't last.... I would have sent it out for a sandblast and a powdercoat... I get a lot of custom shit powdercoated and shit's solid... pretty much any color you can dream you can get now a days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lew Blum Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 that looks dope. reminds me of the crazy old AMF funny bikes. never seen bars with a bend quite like that. makes me wish i didnt already own so many bikes. and Shai, what does rubbing aluminum foil do for chrome, i dont think ive ever heard that one before. i usually just use a rag and some vvvery light sandpaper or steel wool on chrome and it brings most stuff back to life or close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lew Blum Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 ....also, do those springs atop the fork blades actualy do anything? looks like theyre made to resemble a lowrider springer fork but dont actually move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bojangles Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 The springs on the fork do in fact move and that whole apparatus bends and pivots and acts as a shock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the graff giraffe Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 dope too bad about the silver though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john brown Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 summer squash and tomato red? someone hit the doller store up hard. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice eyes Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 props my man, this bike will be peeing in butts and telling people "they're mad" in no time! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 that looks dope. reminds me of the crazy old AMF funny bikes. never seen bars with a bend quite like that. makes me wish i didnt already own so many bikes. and Shai, what does rubbing aluminum foil do for chrome, i dont think ive ever heard that one before. i usually just use a rag and some vvvery light sandpaper or steel wool on chrome and it brings most stuff back to life or close. Honestly, it's a cheat I learned from my stepdad. Sometimes it works, sometimes not...it's usually effective on lightly pitted chrome, anything with huge flakes/patches of rust needs to be dipped...holes in the metal itself means it's time to throw in the towel. Chrome is weird, what looks hopeless can usually be brought back with steel wool, polish and some elbow grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LexDiamonds Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Dope build Bojangles I'm stoked to see the finish product. Shit looks wicked so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CELT Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Bojangles we need an old school bike gang and put the fear of Blackbeard into all the fixed-gear fags in Cleveland . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fezz Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 when i see shit like this it just makes my day, cant wait to see it finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nnout Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 cool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
morton Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I have always admired people with the patience and energy to do stuff like this, good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screambloodygore Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 those handlebars are fuckin wonky. i am feeling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lew Blum Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Honestly, it's a cheat I learned from my stepdad. Sometimes it works, sometimes not...it's usually effective on lightly pitted chrome, anything with huge flakes/patches of rust needs to be dipped...holes in the metal itself means it's time to throw in the towel. Chrome is weird, what looks hopeless can usually be brought back with steel wool, polish and some elbow grease. so is the idea that the aluminum will not actually remove the rust, just coat it with silver so it looks like its removed? ill have to try that. and yeah, most chrome can be brought back, especially anything that Schwinn chromed from the 80s back. ive come across old schwinn handlebars that were completely brown with oxidization and brought them up to shiny with very few pits. friends of mine told me that schwinn chromed alot of their parts super thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lew Blum Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 The springs on the fork do in fact move and that whole apparatus bends and pivots and acts as a shock. yeah i totally see that now. i thought the fork met the axle like on a normal bike. what did you use to paint the chainguard? one shot? it looks really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earl broclo ESQ Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Nice work Bojangles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bojangles Posted July 10, 2009 Author Share Posted July 10, 2009 Lew, I used paint markers for details and striping and then masked off areas and sprayed them. Just went and picked up new tires and the chain today. When I walked in to the bike store with the old tires, they were like "What's this from???" Like I brought in an alien head. Hahahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hahaha760 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Nice work Bojangles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R@ndomH3ro Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 your bike sucks bojangles just thought i would say that, to much positive comments up in here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stacks Edwards Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 cool thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 so is the idea that the aluminum will not actually remove the rust, just coat it with silver so it looks like its removed? ill have to try that. and yeah, most chrome can be brought back, especially anything that Schwinn chromed from the 80s back. ive come across old schwinn handlebars that were completely brown with oxidization and brought them up to shiny with very few pits. friends of mine told me that schwinn chromed alot of their parts super thick. It's best to try it on shitty chrome that you want to spruce up but wouldn't bother redipping or spending much time cleaning up (think chrome on old Huffys/Murrays/Free Spirits). You just got me thinking...I had a chrome Predator in the 80s, if it's still around I wonder what kind of condition it's in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bojangles Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 Hey shai, What do you know about wet sanding? Someone was saying that I might be able to wet sand that silver I painted and shine it up? Here's some more progress! *The chain guard is just dangling in place for photos right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IOU Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 Needs more arrows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bojangles Posted July 11, 2009 Author Share Posted July 11, 2009 Lolz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shai Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 I don't know if wet sanding will work with metallic paint. Here's something I found on another site...I'm lazy and semi-drunk- I'm sure most of you have heard the term "wet sanding" or "color sanding." What do these terms mean and when and how should you use these procedures? Sometimes the only way to remove or lighten a heavy imperfection is by sanding the paint surface. This can be a fast and effective way to remove a heavy scratch or scuff, if you are skilled and very careful. On the other hand, this method may lead to a trip to the spray booth if you are over zealous and not aware of when to stop. During the process of wet sanding you are actually "shaving" a minute layer of clear coat off the paint surface to level out a deep scratch. This is also the process used to remove scuffs or marks left by other cars. Wet sanding is also used in many body shop procedures such as evening out a run or sag, eliminating dry spray, "knocking down" too much orange peel, or getting rid of dirt that got caught on the finish during the paint process. In many cases wet sanding can be more effective than trying to compound these imperfections out. Wet sanding will not create the heat that compounding will, but many times is more aggressive, and special care must be taken throughout the entire process. CHOOSING YOUR WEAPONS Sandpaper comes in a variety of grits. Similar to sanding wood, you start with a more aggressive paper and graduate to a finer paper, which will remove deep sandscratches and produce a smooth surface. The lower the number the more aggressive the paper will be. Grits will range from 400 to 3000. The most popular and common papers to use are 1500 and 2000 grit. For vehicle applications, a grit no more aggressive than 1000 should be used. If you use a more aggressive grade you must remember not to shave more than .3 to .4 mils off the clearcoat surface or premature failure may result. The UV blockers are in the top .5 mils of clear. If you proceed deeper than that the clear will have no UV protection from the sun. Also paper that is too aggressive will actually rub right through the clear and down to the basecoat. It is an unmistakable sight when you hit that tragic point of "ruining" a panel by sanding too far. The term "wet sanding" is just that. The panel you are working on is lubricated with water as well as the paper itself. Some brands of paper must be pre- soaked for a specific time period before they may be used. Other companies make paper that just needs a quick dip in a bucket of water before you may begin. You should have a water bucket to soak the papers in, adding just a couple of drops of soap for better lubrication. You will also need a sanding block to back the paper, made of some type of foam or soft rubber, to distribute even pressure across the panel. Don't use your hand or fingers to back the paper because it will create uneven pressure and may lead to sanding through the paint faster. Keep a spray bottle filled with water handy to keep the area wet. A clean dry towel will be needed to wipe off the area to check on your progress. SAND IT OR BUFF IT? All imperfections in a paint surface are different and different methods will be used to remove or lighten them. Your skill level, knowledge and expertise will determine if the problem can be fixed or improved without refinishing the area. You would not want to sand something that may be removed by the use of clay or light polishing. On the other hand you would not try to polish out a deep key scratch. Compounding the area may be an option if the scratch is not too deep. A thing to remember is that you will be working in the same area with the buffer until the scratch lightens up or is removed. Be careful about the heat and friction you will be creating and the aggressiveness of both the buffing pad and the compound you choose. Sometimes this method will rub through the paint quicker than wet sanding. KEY FACTORS Once you become skilled at wet sanding and are confident that you will not rub through the paint, this method can become a money maker and show customers that your skill and knowledge is superior to your competition. Don't let customers assume that all scratches can be "compounded out." Explain to them that wet sanding and then compounding may be the only option, but it is a risky process and will be more costly. The color of the car will often determine how bad a scratch appears, and how well it can be repaired. Clear coat will always look whitish in appearance when it is scratched. The two key elements are how deep is it and what color is the vehicle? A scratch on a black car will always look worse than on white or beige because of the background or the basecoat. A scratch on black will have to be sanded deeper to totally remove it. Clearcoat will also leave a "scar" and it may still be visible if viewed from a certain angle. Never try to be a hero and assume that something will be completely eliminated. My opinion is that lightening a scratch is a better option than rubbing through the paint, or painting a stripe on the car with touch up paint. Just remember that if you rub through the paint, you lose unless the customer was willing to have the panel refinished if the sanding process was unsuccessful. THE PROCEDURE It is always a good idea to soak the papers you will be using even if the manufacturer says it isn't necessary. While the papers are soaking, mask off any areas that are not to be sanded. This is especially important for areas such as bodylines, pinstripes, panel edges, and moldings. You never want to sand more than you have to and risk damage. Wrap the piece of sandpaper around the sanding block and be sure it is free of any dirt or grit. Take a spray bottle filled with water and wet down the area to be sanded. I prefer to sand at a 45-degree angle to the scratch. This method will help you determine if the scratch has been eliminated because you will see the sandscratches at a different angle than the vehicle scratch. With all the water involved in this process you may lose sight of the scratch and mistakenly think it is removed. The water will fill the scratch and hide it. You will also notice that the water runoff has a whitish color to it. This is the clearcoat being washed away. You may even get a sniff of paint as you are sanding. The key to this procedure is to apply firm but even pressure to the panel and don't stay in one area too long or you will rub through the clearcoat. Periodically wipe the area dry with a clean soft towel and use a blowgun to totally dry the area. At this point you will see no shine whatsoever to the panel, and hopefully no scratch. If the scratch still shows through the sandscratches, it means the paper you used was not aggressive enough, or the scratch is too deep to be removed completely. This is where you must decide to use a more aggressive paper or finish the procedure and hope for the best. Even if the scratch is gone or lightened up sufficiently, there is still more work to be done. You must follow up with a lighter grade of paper or two to make the buffing process easier. For example, if you started with 1200 grit, follow that with 1500 grit, and then move to 2000 grit. The finer you go with the paper, the easier it is to buff those sandscratches out. You never want to see sandscratches through the clear. This is why I like to finish everything with 2000 paper. It will not take that much more time. At this point don't lose concentration. If you did not rub through the clear with your 1000 or 1200 paper, don't assume that you can't rub through the panel with 1500 or 2000 paper. You are still "sanding" the panel even with the lighter grades of paper. GET THE SHINE BACK Congratulations! You sanded out the scratch but look what has happened to the panel. There is no gloss! The finish is white and chalky looking. Now it is time to buff the sandscratches. There are a number of ways to go as far a pad choice (wool or foam) and compound or polish. If you have sanded to 2000 grit, the sandscratches are not that difficult to remove but as stated in previous articles you must be careful not to create too much heat and burn the paint. Don't be in too much of a hurry to see the shine come back. It may not appear on your first or second pass, but it will start to return. Work slowly and gradually proceed to a polishing procedure to remove any swirl marks and bring up a high gloss. At this point you should have a nice deep gloss with no swirl marks and no sandscratches showing through the clear. Be aware that remnants of the scratch may still appear if it was very deep. Deep scratches in clearcoat leave what looks like a "scar" if they have not been totally eliminated. This is not your fault; it is the nature of a clearcoat surface. Explain to the customer that if you went any deeper with the sanding process you may have ruined the finish, resulting in the need for refinishing of that panel. RISKY BUSINESS Wet sanding can be risky if you don't quite have the grasp of how to do it. Always explain the process to the customer and ask him if he is willing to have the panel refinished if the scratch is not completely removed, or if you rub through the clear. His answer will determine how aggressive you can be. Don?t set yourself up for problems by trying to be a hero. Ask the local body shop for discarded panels that still have a large area of good paint and practice- practice- practice! You may never be perfect but practice will increase your skill and knowledge and improve you ability to make accurate judgements about future repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FruityLexia. Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 You could definetly pull tail on that thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malin Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 You want to sell it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clownshoes Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 ill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bojangles Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 You want to sell it? Thanks, but no thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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