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Port-A-John Enthusiest, May 13, 2009 in Art & Design
i've been growing my garden. gonna be LOTS to do in the spring. and then it snowed the other day..
had to be sure it would post...scored about a dozen nice junipers this past fall/winter from a local nursery. nice dudes, and after i hung out and talked for about an hour they only charged me $1 apiece.
i like this thread. let's bring it back..
I had a small bonsai I got from some little starter kit from borders or something. ^^ looked like those above, almost pine needley.
thing did well got to 3-4 inches tall with 2 branches but then died all of a sudden.
statistics show that overwatering is the most common killer of bonsai or young trees. try it again and hope for better results. i've killed a good dozen or two in the last year trying to learn what the hell i'm doing. just now starting to feel like i know a little bit. it gets better..
bring it back brink it back
These are from my job, they've been sitting outside under a tree for shade and the only water they get is when it rains.
I might start giving them some TLC, and hopefully bring more life to them - then post the results?
Btw, I work as cost accountant for a large nursery, hats why these are so neglected.
awesome potential in those pieces. do it!
r u sure that juniper isnt dead??
Keeping a juniper under a shade canopy will have a major impact on the tree and it will kill it after time, they dont like being dripped on and are full sun.Responder where you at, what zone?
I'm no Bonsai master but I am a certified horticulturist. Being Zone 5A to 5B my climate isn't really a Bonsai mecca. We have issues with placement here with Jap maples,any southwest exposure and it's lights out after one winter.
How tight are those root balls wrapped?
Zone 10B so we are in ideal conditions. They were left for dead, hense why they are in thatlocation.
as for the root balls, I have yet to re-pot it. so i don't know what technique was use in the production area when they assembled these.
@ cuttybigmac I'm not sure but that's what I'm going to try and find out.
Btw found some more lost souls
i've heard reports from people about junipers that wound up looking dead and then after years of looking that way popped some new growth. i'd treat it right and put it someplace appropriate and just wait, but that's me.
diggin' those ficus! i've got a little cutting i'm working on, but it's a little twig yet...one day.
just read a bunch of this thread.
i started planting shit for the first time in my life this last summer.
a lot of what i did is already dead (or waiting for spring??).
it seems i have a lot to learn. (i admittedly have no idea what i'm doing)
my biggest concern is my japanese dwarf cedar--about a month after i planted it it started getting brown spots, now about 5 months later it is mostly brown--have i completely fucked it or can i save it? its potted with standard potting soil and steer manure.
recommendations for good "getting started" books?
there are a lot of them out there. i just got craig coussins' bonsai school and bonsai master class in the mail a few weeks ago. good info in both, but bonsai school would get you going and is reasonably in depth as a starter voulme. got a used one on amazon for less that $15.
go here in the meantime. lots of good info to be had there. i really don't know enough to tell you whether the manure is good or not for that kind of cedar, but they definitely prefer to grow in a well draining soil mix that doesn't keep them too wet. usually it's mostly coarse sand, with some inorganic and organic matter thrown in. (i.e., aged bark for organics and volcanic rock or turface for your inorganics in 'most' cases) everybody seems to have their own preference based on where they're growing bonsai. did you repot it into that mix?
yeah i repotted.
maybe its just too rainy here (tacoma, wa) to try moisture sensitive stuff outside?
is it okay to repot at this time of year when frost is likely? or since its pretty well fucked just give it a shot?
thanks for the help. gonna order the bonsai school tonight.
no problem, man..i just joined the local bonsai club this month, so i'll probably be getting my knowledge on a lot this year. i'd probably try to let it ride out the winter if possible at this point, just because when you repot it's going to stress the tree and with the harsh conditions just won't be good if it's already stressed like that. are you familiar with mycorrhizae? that's my other concern. most times when you repot a conifer or evergreen you want to take the old soil and mix it with some water and then pour the liquid over the top of your repotted tree to make sure that the beneficial (i think it's technically a fungus, but the two have a symbiotic relationship that helps the tree get the most out of its soil) business gets reintroduced. at this point i'd just let it ride and see what happens with a repot in the spring. bonsai is a great patience builder that way. and if it dies, try it over again. i've learned something every time i've killed a tree.
thanks, i'll just wait another month or so then til it lightens up.
my wife told me about this place, elandan gardens. which isn't too far a drive for me. i'll be going there in a month or two. will def get some pics.
and i learned that weyerhauser has a garden with 60 bonsai about 20 minutes away. hurrah.
i guess i should start a flickr for this coming season...
word up! i've been past that area once, and i've definitely heard of the weyerhauser garden. should be an awesome trip. i've been working on my soil mix theory for the coming spring and i've repotted a few indoor small pieces i've been working on...flicks coming soon.
It's in my opinion that transplanting any coniferous plant in the winter is a bad idea. It is alive through out the winter and the freeze thaw cycles that naturally occur it will try to absorb some form of moisture. Some people will say soak it before the ground freezes, but thats not enough unless your going at it ever warm day that you can run a hose on it,its useless...wait it out. If it can't not take up moisture the small root hairs will go first, then you will see browning and eventually die back. I've been on installs that contractors pushed on and planted anyway and lost 900 hick yews,and thousands of dollars.
I'm not a small container gardener at all,so I don't know what steps you guys are taking in the pruning of the root balls.I avoid small containers in my designs,but I have worked a lot on large scale containers on roof tops or in condo complexes.
its sad to see this thread get so little attention. i'm going to post in here and probably start a thread of its own in channel zero.
I've had some success and failure this year with bonsai. Most of my success has been with dwarf rhododendrons, though. had a 'blue planet' that was thriving and then had a hot week and lost all of its needles, shoulda moved it inside i now know.
Here are some pictures from my trip this week to the Weyerhauser Bonsai Garden in Federal Way, WA.
Elephant Bush, 1960
Sweet Plum, 1973
Willow Leaf Fig, 1976
Rock and Water Penjing, 1990
Chinese Banyan, 1985
Jasmine Orange, 1955
Green Island Fig, 1965
Chinese Juniper on Sierra Juniper, Bonsai since 1970 trunk is dated to ca 1000
Hinoki Cypress, 1983
Catlin Elm, 1973
Trident Maple, 1950
Satsuki Azalea, 1990
Japanese White Pine, Unknown
Chinese Elm, 1985
Satsuki Azalea, 1910, grown since 1880
Korean Horbeam, 1975
Japese Maple, 1964, there are 59 trees growing in this piece
Chinese Elm, 1975
Chinese Hackberry, 1952, the tree was over 20 feet tall before it was cut down and then the stump was saved for its potential.
Japanese Maple, 1968
Cork Bark Japanese Black Pine, 1965
Tucker Oak, 1940, tree dated to 1840
Golden Atlas Cedar,1957
Sierra Juniper, 1991
Creeping Juniper, 1940
Satsuki Azalea 1975
Japanese Red Pine, 1990
Eastern White Cedar, 1989, tree dated to 1750ca
Mountain Hemlock, 1986, tree dated to 1870
American Larch, 1972, tree since 1830
Creeping Juniper, 1957
Coast Redwood, 1957
Sierra Juniper, 1975, tree dated to 1700
Satsuki Azalea, 1975
Eastern White Cedar, 1992, tree dated to 1770
Creeping Hydrangea, 1989, plant since 1960
Western Hemlock, 1965, tree since 1930
Trident Maple, 1971, 25 trees in this saikei
Formosan Juniper, 1962
Japanese White Pine with Spruce, 1976
Japanese Beech, 1958
Olive, 1969, this tree was taken from an olive orchard planted in 1880
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