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Joker

12ozProphet Original
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Everything posted by Joker

  1. @lordkisami Yes! That is way better. Nice job. Draw that same outline ten times, each time making slight adjustments... slight, like... very slight.
  2. @lordkisami- my initial reaction is to ease up on the breaks in all your line work. You're not consistent with them (look a the difference between the L and the R) and honestly they don't add any style value to the piece, especially when you use that many. It feels like you're trying to replace a style with the line breaks and that's not a good path to go down. Also, the O looks like you kept it locked up in the basement for months and only fed it leaves and water when compared to the rest of the letters. I'd beef up the weight of the O, too. I did a very quick sketch to show what I mean...
  3. False. I don't know what you're on about. TPBM drinks tea, not coffee
  4. False. 100 times false. Always false. TPBM likes grocery store hot food, especially jo-jos
  5. True. I raced BMX as a kid before getting into BMX on half pipes. From there I tarted racing road bikes, then Mountain bikes and cyclocross. Still racing today. TPBM still uses a discman
  6. True. I'm kind of a dork about it. To the point that my wife makes fun of me. I don't know... it's satisfying to always drive a clean car. As a kid TPBM wanted to be an architect when they grew up
  7. False. I'm retired... for the most part. Walls occasionally, maybe once a year. Stickers and such... when the moment grabs me. It's better for everyone. TPBM likes the B52s but will never admit it.
  8. And I'm over here thinking of all the apparently valuable life-creating swimmers I've wasted over the years because I was bored... and obviously lonely.
  9. For the last year I've been getting hounded by artist friends to get on the NFT train but I just don't understand it. I've read several articles and it's still not making sense. Plus, I can barely get folks to buy a sticker pack... how the hell am I gonna get someone to spend money on an NFT?? I'm trying to get them to understand that my prime is past and this kinda stuff isn't going to work for a washed up has been. Unless one of you can make me understand it, and understand why I should get in on it...
  10. That would be my only real bit of feedback - the vertical bar of your L could be slightly taller. Not too much, though.
  11. I should have led with: I get what the meme is saying, but I think it's a fairly big leap to compare the two, even for the sake of a laugh. On the surface the two are comparable and probably why the meme works. I did find it funny, but I couldn't stop analyzing it for some reason... obviously. I'll go back to the toy thread where I cause less trouble.
  12. @lordkisami- forgive my sloppy sketch, but I agree with what others mentioned regarding your R. I've sketched out a quick option for an alternative way to lay down your letters. I think with this style an uppercase E might work better... or it could just be my preference.
  13. @EGGZ- those Gs are way better. And your letter composition and scale is better as well. Very nice...
  14. Memes: good for a laugh for those with common sense, taken as truth for those without. Got it.
  15. Maybe I don't understand the meme (it's possible, I'm 54... a lot flies right over my head), but I think there's a big difference between giving a 10 year a participation trophy for being part of a soccer game they didn't win and giving someone a hat for being drafted into a war their country didn't win. One requires zero sacrifice other than time away from video games while the other requires a much bigger sacrifice. If it's the same thing maybe someone can explain it to me.
  16. @nachodik- I agree with @LUGRthe arrow coming up through the C is kinda odd, but the piece overall has some solid bits happening. While I see what you were going for with the lowercase E on the end I don't think it's as strong as the uppercase E between the R and P. Speaking of... the R,E,P combo is nice! And I like the solid, straight bar at the base of your letters. The sketch below is my attempt to see how your piece felt by replacing the lowercase E with uppercase, and removing the arrow through the C. I personally don't like the solve I did with the arrows but I kept the strength of your R, E, P letters and tried to give some of that same love to the C and E. Not entirely successful but figured I'd share anyway.
  17. @EGGZ- you kept it simple, which is great. All your letters are readable, which is great. Color combo works fine... dark fill, light outline, bright outer. Nice job. The E and Z are both the same size (Z might be slightly larger) while both Gs are visibly smaller. Your EGG all nestle/snuggle up to each other nicely, but your Z is being treated like it's got a cold sore on its lip. Where's the love?! Move that a little to the left so it feels part of the other letters.
  18. Sitting in a hotel in downtown Detroit hoping sleep takes me sooner than later.
  19. Also, tips for buff paint - not sure where you're located (you used meters as a form of measurement so I assume you're not in the states) but the Home Depots and Lowes of the world always have mis-tints by the paint mixing counter. Mis-tints are usually paints that someone has asked for and either the color didn't work out or the mix was off from the intended color. Mis-tints typically sell for pretty cheap but nine times out of ten the color choices aren't as cool as you'd wish them to be. Also, you can buy a gallon of white and then mix in an 8oz of color for $4. Or you could buy a quart of color to mix with a half gallon of white you already have.
  20. @EGGZ With regards to single color combos - for the most part you can't go wrong with your choices. Even a bright red fill with a maroon red outline is going to look solid. Of course, the obvious direction would be to go with two colors that are as opposite from each other as possible: white & black, red & black, yellow & blue, green & red, et al. If you're planning to do a drop shadow I would use the same color as your outline for the drop shadow. Shines or highlights - it's always a good practice to go with white but there's also the argument to go with a brighter version of your fill-in color. For example, if your fill-in is school bus yellow you could do a light yellow highlight. If you add a forcefield or outer-outline I would go with something that is opposite of your fill. Let's say your fill-in is school bus yellow, which is a warm color, I would go with a light yellow for highlights, a true blue for outline and drop shadow, and a light blue outer-outline... or even an apple green, or brighter, which are both cool colors (as in temperature). With regards to color fade combos - if you ask me whom I think is the king of color fades I would say KEM is the out and out master at color combos for fade fill-ins. The guy kills it every single time. That said... I would take the advice others have already said. Keep your color combos simple for now - two, maybe three colors - and keep the colors similar. And by that I mean, like - orange to yellow to bright yellow - or dark green to bright green to light green - or red to pink - or teal blue to light turquoise. Keep your colors complimentary until you understand your colors. Kem knows colors, understands one color that shouldn't work with another indeed does work. He gets it because he's been doing it for years and has perfected it. As for your GG - I'd be curious to know/understand how you see them as GG. This conversation is something I've brought up to you in the sketch thread as well. Maybe if I see how you see them as a letter G I can better help you?
  21. @nachodik- That's solid, for sure. The letters are good, and the work you've done to interlock them and nestle one into the next is really nice, too. How the C connects to the R and the E to the P is a nice detail as well. I'd find a CMU wall to paint this one. The CMU bricks create a built-in guide to help you get those straight lines. Nicely done!
  22. Experimenting is the process of finding your own voice within this culture, so keep it up. That said, yes... simple-styles should be your focus to learn your letters well. Knowing their structure as a simple letter is key when it comes to distorting them, later. If your simple-style letters aren't recognizable then your wild-style letters are going to be even worse. If you look at the fidelity of the CREPE outlines above... those are at the perfect level for learning your letters. Learning how they nestle into each other, how they can connect, all that kind of stuff. Glad you're focused on learning can control at the moment. When you're ready come back to sketching and I'll try to help best I can.
  23. @EGGZ- Below is what I see. The top sketch is better but it's still a stretch to understand those are GG, mostly because the bar coming down overlaps the cross bar of the G making the letter a little unreadable. I get it, style is important, "camouflage" your letters so they're harder to read is the name of the game, but at the end of the day your letters have to be somewhat recognizable as their origin - an A should look somewhat like an A, a B should look somewhat like a B, and so on.
  24. I like this one. Probably because my favorite color is green, but let's look past that for a sec. I think my only call-out here is I might have done the bottom bar of the E like you did for the C. It would balance out the piece from left to right. But the colors, the shines, all the letters... very nice. Yeah, this is nice. I think the only thing I might do is bring the bar of the P down every so slightly, but that is a big might. This is pretty good. For extra credit you could make the bottom bar of the E connect to the curved bar of the P, but not necessary. No criticism on this one. Nicely done! Halftone fills win every time. I don't know why but I love 'em. Oddly enough, I never do them myself. Probably because it takes too much time and by the time I get to going into a piece with markers I'm already sick of looking at it. Yeah... I got issues. Anyway, this looks pretty good to me. The only thing I would do here is make the swooping bar of the E as big and chunky as the swooping loop of the A.
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