yeaaaah baby Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 Originally posted by Gates DAMN..wtf more is there good then garvey?PLANE GARVEY just leave your ink alone..GARVEY is a killer..just leave it alone. drow. i'd kill for some garvey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chumbawumba Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 garvey is wayy over rated.. its really only good on metals. there are surfaces where it comes off easier then fucking crayola. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onthelam Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 hit up on ur varnished skool desks that shit will never budge even if u have a wet paper towel ready right after u use it....garvey stains panels pretty strong but its good for hitting anything if mixed with fiebings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gates Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 i've tried alot of inks at school and nothing comes off of school desks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parcheesey Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 Originally posted by onthelam hit up on ur varnished skool desks that shit will never budge even if u have a wet paper towel ready right after u use it....garvey stains panels pretty strong but its good for hitting anything if mixed with fiebings Originally posted by Gates i've tried alot of inks at school and nothing comes off of school desks. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pugsly Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 but how many school try removing stuff of the desks with water and paper towel..????they use ethnol and scrubbing brush and tat will take garvey off trust me.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Producto Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 Originally posted by pugsly but how many school try removing stuff of the desks with water and paper towel..????they use ethnol and scrubbing brush and tat will take garvey off trust me.... first of all, bombing in school is fucking gay, but i know that garvey would stain in my school...simple mixes have stained my schools toilets pretty hard, they just use some shitty cheap stuff to buff it i think...garvey is supposed to stain metal proper hard, aparently it stains plastic reasonably well too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rinse Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 garvey sucks on plastics. i am not sure what the difference between certain plastics is, but i have wiped garvey off a plastic maker of mine about 2 days after it had dried with only a paper towel and it left no stain what so ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gates Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 every ink serves for it's own purpose..use the ink for it's purpose.and you'll be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blahness Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 does anyone know were to get fiebliengs on the internet with paypal? they dont sell that shit anywere around here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
embry0 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 yesterday i poured some dot3 brake fluid and potassium permanganate into a OTR flowpen with the stock OTR flowpen ink. the fucker started smoking and i started crying. what did i do wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Originally posted by chumbawumba Well its good to know I at least have the right stuff, I guess :o. You think its taking a long time because I didn't put it in Denatured Alcohol, but straight into my ink? Also what do you mean about straining it? Do you mean like after I add the Potassium to the Denatured Alc and let it sit, strain it before adding it to my ink? I'm just a little confused. Also do you reccomend the same amount as the Dye Additives (5-10g)? Yes, with additives I always dissolve in alcohol first so that I can make sure it is dissolved before I put it in ink. If your additive solution still has some shit in the bottom that won't dissolve, then just strain it through a coffee filter or somesuch into another container. That way, the shit gets caught and won't end up clogging your marker. I make my dye solutions as strong as possible: 10g to 20g in 100ml alcohol. It's almost straight ink by itself. I would stick to 5g to 10g of permanganate, though. I'm going to try writing to them to see if I can order some empty ones. It should'nt be too much because its only $2.89 for a full one.. Post when you find out. I'm curious as to how much they would cost. Better yet would be to run down the company that makes the bodies and find out how much the bulk price is... Got a new ink recipe coming up today as last post. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Originally posted by chumbawumba anyway i know 60F1 said that you can get denatured alcohol from any place that sells paint, but could i get it at like a cvs or a rite aid pharmacy type place? I've never seen any there. However, you could get some 70% or 90% isopropyl alcohol. I'd get the 90% as first choice. OK, these alcohols have some water -- all of them do. When you mix up a batch of ink, you might want to add about 5ml of acetone for every 150ml to 200ml of finished product. It won't affect the plastic markers and it will keep the polar solvents mixed even though they don't want to. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Originally posted by chumbawumba 100w's are good on glass I just wish the son of a bitch wasn't so hard to refill! :heated: BTW, for those of you who read every post: Sanford red stamp pad ink is officially FUCKING USELESS. Because I can't get the purple anymore I made some violet from blue and red. Thinned the ink right and all just like I would with the purple. So, now it looks fat, but the red never fucking dries! Two days later I can run my finger over a tag and it comes off red and smeary. The blue stays fine, but the red will not dry. Stay away from the red, grasshopper. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Originally posted by chumbawumba damn kiddies.. 1 pint of alcohol desnaturalizado for 3 bucks.. "CROWN" brand.. misterart.com. now that is a bargain, no? anyway its around 500ml (four seventy-something point something..) so thats 4 full 100ml batches of liquid additive solutions. i'm about to cop some. Crown, EZYstrip and Sunnyside are all good. You should be able to cop a gallon for about eight smackers. This shit is hella useful. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Originally posted by Gates every ink serves for it's own purpose..use the ink for it's purpose.and you'll be happy. Right. And Garvey is price marking ink, so load up your gun and really "tag" everything. Jesus, that was a bad joke. Really bad. :eek: Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Originally posted by embry0 yesterday i poured some dot3 brake fluid and potassium permanganate into a OTR flowpen with the stock OTR flowpen ink. the fucker started smoking and i started crying. what did i do wrong? First, take a high school chemistry class or read a basic book on chemistry. What you did wrong was not test your mix. Always test something before you just start randomly throwing chemicals together like some kind of retarded chimp, slapnuts! With a strong oxidiser like potassium permanganate you would have absolutely no goddamn reason whatsoever to put in a weak corrosive like DOT-3. DOT-3 only works on surfaces like paint, anyway. Sorry to unload on you like that, but you're the 9-finger posterboy in this situation. Please be more careful and wear gloves. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 New Ink Recipe OK, I've been doing some experimenting lately and came up with this one. I've been using it for a week and I can highly recommend it. Everything should be cheap and easy to find. I'm giving good instructions for the beginners, but if there are any questions please just ask. This stuff is black as hell and very opaque. Once it dries, it is completely weatherproof and can only be removed by acetone or abrasion. It will completely ruin a painted surface. I've been trying out the Black Top for a while and I've come to the conclusion that this is the best shit for mixing your own black inks. Very cheap, too. Find it on www.cleansweepsupply.com. They got 100Ws for cheap, too. Basic Black Ink What you need: 1) 30ml bottle of Pilot Super Colour Marker refill ink (black) 2) 59ml bottle of Sanford Permanent Stamp Pad Ink 58757 ("Black Top") 3) Strong dye solution 4) Shellac 5) DOT-3 brake fluid 6) Acetone 7) One more bottle of Pilot or dye Why you need them: 1) Pilot is good ink and easy to find. 2) Black Top pigments the whole mix and is hella evil. 3) Dye for staining. 4) Shellac binds it all and dries to a tough waterproof surface. 5) DOT-3 is mildly corrosive and slows the drying time a little. 6) Acetone will cause polar solvents to mix. 7) To even out measurements and drying time. How you do it: 1) Get a container that will hold about 6oz and pour a bottle of Pilot into it. Save the Pilot bottle to measure everything else. 2) Measure out 30ml of Black Top and add it. 3) Measure out 30ml of dye solution and add it. You can make your own by adding 10g to 20g of dyestuff to 100ml denatured alcohol. If you don't or can't, then Fiebings is the best choice as a substitute. Oxblood rocks. 4) Fill the Pilot bottle half full of shellac. Fill the other half up to the bottom of the neck with DOT-3. Then, fill up the neck with acetone. That's about 5ml of acetone. Add it in. 5) Add either one more bottle of Pilot or one more bottle of dye or a combination of both. You could use Marsh, but don't use any special graff ink like Nero or Montana. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gates Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 way to much shit^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathmetal. Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 what kind of shellac/where to get it? also, doesnt varnish do the same thing as shellac just about? would either be ok to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 60F1, do you know of any corrosives stronger than DOT3 that I could get my hands on ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chumbawumba Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Crown, EZYstrip and Sunnyside are all good. You should be able to cop a gallon for about eight smackers. This shit is hella useful. yeah, i decided not to order it over the internet though, because im just gonna get it at wallmart tomorrow. i ordered pearlex pigments though :D I've never seen any there. However, you could get some 70% or 90% isopropyl alcohol. I'd get the 90% as first choice. yeah, i found 70% percent the other day, and i remembered you said its acceptable, but i would rather wait and get the denatured. Yes, with additives I always dissolve in alcohol first so that I can make sure it is dissolved before I put it in ink. If your additive solution still has some shit in the bottom that won't dissolve, then just strain it through a coffee filter or somesuch into another container. That way, the shit gets caught and won't end up clogging your marker. I make my dye solutions as strong as possible: 10g to 20g in 100ml alcohol. It's almost straight ink by itself. I would stick to 5g to 10g of permanganate, though. thats those white things right? anyway, have you any idea what product might come in a container around 100ml, because i dont have erlenmyer flasks to measure in ml. the closest i've gotten is those marino's italian ices, 177ml. :rolleyes: Basic Black Ink sounds nice, but i dont think im going to be experimenting with any ink recipes anymore. one reason is because i have a killer mix of my own, that nothing so far has come close to its standards, and another reason is because it just gets so damn messy.. i might try it out though, i always wind up fucking with inks when i have nothing to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneoneone Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 do not bother mixing all these chemicals together, just use sanford permanent stamp pad ink. I've had the stuff stain post boxes which were covered in a graffiti resistant coating. Also it's a really dark black whihch does not fade. Also the stuff has also no smell, well it does have a light smell but you can eaisly use it inside transit because even if somoene did smell it it is not an ink smell. The only downside is the stuff takes like an hour to dry. for those who cant find it it cna be ordered off www.dahub.com.au. They have another ink of their site, Back up's marker based refill. This stuff is even harsher but it is expensive and too thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Originally posted by deathmetal. what kind of shellac/where to get it? also, doesnt varnish do the same thing as shellac just about? would either be ok to use? Umm, regular shellac at a paint or hardware store. Don't waste your $$$ on the artist's kind, since it is the same thing only more expensive. Varnish won't thin with alcohol. Shellac is soluble in alcohol, therefore better for ink. Be seeing you. BTW, It's a little after ten AM and I just hit up a bus while all you other slapnuts were probably in bed -- ha, ha! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Originally posted by rubbish heap 60F1, do you know of any corrosives stronger than DOT3 that I could get my hands on ? Sure, but they'd eat holes in your marker. Moving up from DOT-3 your next step would be to start using potassium permanganate. From there I'd have to think a little... Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Originally posted by oneoneone do not bother mixing all these chemicals together, just use sanford permanent stamp pad ink. I've had the stuff stain post boxes which were covered in a graffiti resistant coating. Also it's a really dark black whihch does not fade. Also the stuff has also no smell, well it does have a light smell but you can eaisly use it inside transit because even if somoene did smell it it is not an ink smell. The only downside is the stuff takes like an hour to dry. for those who cant find it it cna be ordered off www.dahub.com.au. They have another ink of their site, Back up's marker based refill. This stuff is even harsher but it is expensive and too thick. OK, you're talking about Sanford Black Top, which is in my recipe. My basic black was invented because Black Top takes too long to dry. Plus, it is not expensive, since you can get it from Clean Sweep for about $1.76 per bottle. I'll bet this Aussie ink is just about the same recipe as mine, except (like a lot of graff sites) they sell it for ten times what it would cost to make it. No beef, just facts. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Originally posted by chumbawumba yeah, i decided not to order it over the internet though, because im just gonna get it at wallmart tomorrow. i ordered pearlex pigments though :D There you go. As for the PearlEx, I love 'em. You can thin shellac with alcohol and add whichever one you want and have passable ink. The MicroPearl has a thousand uses, but mostly I use it to gay up my ink. :eek: yeah, i found 70% percent the other day, and i remembered you said its acceptable, but i would rather wait and get the denatured. Good choice. I've never had much luck using isopropyl for anything. If that was the only alcohol I could get, then I would just use naphtha (Zippo fuel). thats those white things right? anyway, have you any idea what product might come in a container around 100ml, because i dont have erlenmyer flasks to measure in ml. the closest i've gotten is those marino's italian ices, 177ml. :rolleyes: Yes, the paper filters that go into the coffee maker. The cone-shaped ones are best. Note, however, that you only need to strain your additive if it didn't all dissolve and left chunks at the bottom. You could also just pour it off carefully and leave the chunks. The point is to keep the chunks out of the marker. Now, as to the 100ml problem, well, it isn't. You've got 177ml, so just make more! :D Put in 15g of permanganate and work from that. Doing dye, 20g of dye is still going to make a hella strong solution in 177ml. You don't have to be super exact on this one. sounds nice, but i dont think im going to be experimenting with any ink recipes anymore. one reason is because i have a killer mix of my own, that nothing so far has come close to its standards, and another reason is because it just gets so damn messy.. i might try it out though, i always wind up fucking with inks when i have nothing to do. No shit -- you should see my kitchen/lab. Good-bye damage deposit! :( The basic black I use regularly now. My old carbon-purple I use now. I also use a Garvey/Nero mix and a Nero/OTR484 mix. I can't keep my hands off the ink mixes, though, so you're lucky. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 Spilling Garvey or Fiebing's in your kitchen sink is the worst. If you can get away with using someone else's bathroom sink, preferably the gas station's or your local Wendy's, there is no reason to fret about messes and spilled inks. I guess I've just gotten super careful, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
destroya Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 chumba, save your money, i've got tons of Pearl Ex. in fact, i've got Aztec Gold, Duo Blue-Green, DUo-Red-Blue, ang Interference Violet in my hand right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chumbawumba Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 thanks 60F1. chumba, save your money, i've got tons of Pearl Ex. cool! Spilling Garvey or Fiebing's in your kitchen sink is the worst. it sure is.. i was taking the paint out of a woodcraft, and i had a garvey mix in a cup next to my sink, i went to throw something into my garbage (next to my sink) and my elbow hit the cup and got it all in my sink.. its pretty much off now but there is a very visible purple tint to it :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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