rubbish heap Posted July 29, 2004 Author Share Posted July 29, 2004 I've always heard whisperings that black isn't as hard staining as purple, not even as good as black Griffin in fact. No first hand info, though. If you can't get purple, you could get red like chumba said. But don't sleep on blue if you can get that too. Preferably the darker blues, I think the colors called navy blue. In theory brown would be hard staining because it's the combination of all color pigments. HOVIE used to do that shit, I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
religion Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 I've been looking for potassium perm. @ home depo and aquatic supply places lately, and alot of people are are telling me that it's outdated and hardly in use anymore. I did however find this shit called Seachem Marine Buff Ph. 8.3. Its a white powder. Is it just the Ph that matters? Is this the same? 6OF1, this ones for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chumbawumba Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 I dont know about the Seachem shit, but 60F1 said he got his potas perm at Lowes and K-Mart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parcheesey Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 yeah thats cuz he lives in an area with wells, which potassium perm is used for. ill prolly go with the brown fiebings at the shoe store or get it off ebay, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adernaline Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 Originally posted by rubbish heap In theory brown would be hard staining because it's the combination of all color pigments. HOVIE used to do that shit, I think. take that as fact too ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Producto Posted July 31, 2004 Share Posted July 31, 2004 Originally posted by Adernaline take that as fact too ;) http://www.chea.org/assets/chea-home-index-bod.gif'> brown ink owns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlokddlokd Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 i have this on the run tagstar marker with the 30mm nib....brandnew...anyone want it...trade me...dlokddlokd@hotmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parcheesey Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 hm... advertising, thats bannable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Producto Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 fuck 30mm's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parcheesey Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 yeah, the biggest marker i use is like 12mm, i just measured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adernaline Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 15-20 for me but pentels and silver/white markers are a different story. i'd have them bigger and smaller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLaCkNiGGa Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 ^^^^^^i dont care, big is tight but cutty is tight too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PreTeenBrave Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Originally posted by nozaki for glass, my friend uses that purple otr flow pen ink. it leaves a really nice ghost after they buff it(looks almost like etch). garvey won't really mark glass, because it's not designed to really...straight garvey is best on poreous surfaces(most plastic, metals, etc.) ...the best things to hit with straight garvey is those orange construction cones...it's impossible to buff off of those, you would need to take like a sander to that shit because it like seeps inside the plastic. i'd rather just use one shot in a dabber for straight street tagging...that way you can just hit anything and not worry about "waisting" good ink on a surface that it shouldn't be on(painted metal doors, etc)... how is this possible? is it just a shitty buff or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parcheesey Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 lol i removed otr off of wallpaper with nail polish remover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onthelam Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 black fiebings actually sucks....ur better of using red or navy blue or black lincoln or griffin......black girffin and navy blue lincoln stain green on bus panels....but black fiebings sucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Originally posted by johndoe i was wondering if black fiebings is just as staining as violet. cuz all the shoe stores around here carry only black and shades of brown, i wouldnt imagine many stores would carry purple for shoes. so if someone could give me an answer if black is as good as violet it would be appreciated. There's no such thing as a black aniline dye. Any "black" dye will be based on very strong dyestuffs of other colours, such as red and/or blue. Therefore, your black will wash out to either red or blue (or other main constituent colour) over time. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Originally posted by religion I've been looking for potassium perm. @ home depo and aquatic supply places lately, and alot of people are are telling me that it's outdated and hardly in use anymore. I did however find this shit called Seachem Marine Buff Ph. 8.3. Its a white powder. Is it just the Ph that matters? Is this the same? 6OF1, this ones for you! No go -- this is just an aquarium additive that brings saltwater aquariums to 8.3ph levels for sensitive fish. Won't do anything except waste your money... Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Originally posted by johndoe yeah thats cuz he lives in an area with wells, which potassium perm is used for. ill prolly go with the brown fiebings at the shoe store or get it off ebay, thanks. Note: it is used to clean water softeners which are usually attached to well pumps because the water is so full of minerals that soap won't lather. Some city water supplies are hard, as well, and you might be able to find the stuff just about anywhere. Special order? There were also two links posted, the first of which had it for $20 per pound, which is super cheap... Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sneak Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 ^^did you ever get my reply to your email? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Originally posted by PreTeenBrave how is this possible? is it just a shitty buff or what? Actually just a shitty buff -- sounds like they cleaned the glass with just regular Windex or something like that. Acetone is what you want to use in buff tests, because that's what is in graff remover. Now, don't be surprised, because acetone will remove about anything. However, on painted surfaces it will also remove the paint. So, following this theory... If you have ink that is solvent based, it will attack the ground (writing surface) you put it on as long as it is wet. This is why you use alcohol inks and add dye -- so they stain the ground. However, alcohol is actually a fairly weak solvent. What if you used alcohol and acetone? Your ink will dry faster, that's what. The only thing that dries faster than acetone is ether and it is useless for graff. There are some other solvents that can be added to ink that will increase the solvent action but not fuck up the drying time too much. Unfortunately, I'm in a hurry right now so you're going to have to wait a little bit before I can post. However, one of our UK comrades posted an adequate solution: use an alcohol/acetone mix, but add some ethylene glycol to slow it down. Propylene glycol would do the same thing, as would glycerine. Watch it with these because they can slow down your dry time so that it can literally take days to dry, especially with the glycerine, which I don't recommend. Of course, if you're using stamp pad ink, you've already got a jump on it... Note: I fucked up my original recipe. I put a "4oz" bottle of Sanford roll-on and it only comes in 2oz bottles. Nobody busted my nuts, so I guess everybody just figured I had a temporary retard moment from breathing too much xylol. :D Adding acetone to a carbon/stamp ink recipe couldn't hurt it. I'm working on an improved version of it as well as an india ink that stains and is actually hard to buff. More soon... Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Originally posted by HÁgeir nauh! bara íslendingur og læti :D but it takes to much time to sand a steel-pipe.. :) but i tried the cd think and it didn't work so well.. hei íslendingur :D hver er ma?urinn? tala?u vi? mig á msn : pisskat@msn.com alltaf gaman a? heyrí íslendungum úti í heimi :D Halló Look at this: PearlEx This stuff is great -- I put about 1/3rd of a bottle of the macropearl in 4oz of mop paint and it gleams crazy... My Icelandic is slæmt! So "aldrei tala". See? Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rinse Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Originally posted by 6OF1 Adding acetone to a carbon/stamp ink recipe couldn't hurt it. Be seeing you. acetone degrades plastics like mad. it works much faster than xylene on that count. be careful what you put that stuff in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
completionz Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 since xylene and acetone melt plastic is it good for transit panels or street plastic for stains or is it so slow that it doesnt really matter?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiNo-27 Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 Does anyone know if anyone ever tried to make a mop/scriber? :idea: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sneak Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 ^^nope, never ever been done before. honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rinse Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Originally posted by completionz since xylene and acetone melt plastic is it good for transit panels or street plastic for stains or is it so slow that it doesnt really matter?? i doubt it because mentioned chemicals basicly break down plastics at a molecular level creating structural weaknesses in plastics over periods of prolonged exposure such as in the case of storing the solvents in a plastic container. think of erosion, its a similar premise. i believe though that there are varying effects on different types of plastics. i am pretty sure that acetone is more aggresive, thats why the ladies with fake nails have to get there polish changed with non-acetone remover, otherwise the acetone will eat through the fake nails and jack up their real tips in the process. see, you can learn all kind of useful information when you actually listen to your girlfriend's 45 minute monologues.;) but who knows, i am no chemical engineer... do what you want, you never know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Originally posted by rinse acetone degrades plastics like mad. it works much faster than xylene on that count. be careful what you put that stuff in. True -- acetone loves to eat HDPE. Some plastics are resistant, but most plastic containers are HDPE. Once again, I forgot my notes, but there are some solvents almost as good as acetone that won't eat your mark or mop. To-morrow -- promise! Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Originally posted by completionz since xylene and acetone melt plastic is it good for transit panels or street plastic for stains or is it so slow that it doesnt really matter?? These solvents both evaporate so quickly that there isn't much of a chance of significant physical disruption of the surface. However, they would be able to carry ink deeper than just plain alcohol. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Originally posted by rinse but who knows, i am no chemical engineer... do what you want, you never know. I'm not a chemical engineer either, but I'm glad you didn't use the word "covalent". :D Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ODS-1 Posted August 8, 2004 Share Posted August 8, 2004 http://www.ebaumsworld.com/forumfun/misc5.jpg'> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.