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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


rubbish heap

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for glass, my friend uses that purple otr flow pen ink. it leaves a really nice ghost after they buff it(looks almost like etch). garvey won't really mark glass, because it's not designed to really...straight garvey is best on poreous surfaces(most plastic, metals, etc.) ...the best things to hit with straight garvey is those orange construction cones...it's impossible to buff off of those, you would need to take like a sander to that shit because it like seeps inside the plastic. i'd rather just use one shot in a dabber for straight street tagging...that way you can just hit anything and not worry about "waisting" good ink on a surface that it shouldn't be on(painted metal doors, etc)...

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Re: bucket paint

 

Originally posted by PreTeenBrave

i cant find any oil based paint which is the best does. anyone know what is the second best like acrylic,enamel and any others i know latex is crap though..

 

Nope, gotta be oil based.

 

You can use those squeeze acrylic bottles for spaghetti sidewalk tags. They don't fade, but they're not that hard to remove. If you master using the squeeze bottle, you can get some really nice results.

 

OKAY - to clear up the Garvey thing, I doubt it was fake ink. Garvey seems to be only good on metal for me and nothing else. This is why I now think it's best to mix it rather than use straight Garvey.

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Originally posted by hey?

yo can any one tell me in simple terms how to make a marker i know u need brake fluid and a polit marker is there any other way?:confused:

 

I don't quite understand your question. But maybe you should check the marker modifications thread.

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for people who are more into the game then finding out what ink is and wat a marker is im getting sum violet gravey in a cuple days and im also getting purple fiebings.....purple fiebings already stains fuckin crucially but ima try mixing a little gravey witht he fiebings to help it stain on multiple surfaces so ill let u kno how it works.......if ur hitting the streets juss get griffin that shits easy to get not cheap if u buy it and its actually a pretty good ink and besides if the shots get painted over it doesnt matter how strong the ink is

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quote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally posted by dlokddlokd

about garvey...is it good on only painted metal?...aluminum?..steel?...what?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>>> I just had a bunch O' this shit sent to me, and it cost me $70 CDN... don't really want to waste it. 6OF1? Rubb? I have done some experimenting with a Navy Blue Fiebing's/ Violet Garvey mix, looks good, but I'm still waiting for the results.

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OIL BASED GLOSSY PAINT + A PAINT MARKER

 

I would like to produce similiar ink (paint) that's used in markers like this:

1740photo.jpg

 

my plan would be to fill a large marker (posca, posterman) with that shit. the black paint in the smaller fuckers is the shit, supa opaque and quick drying. I still wouldn't like to rack a bunch of them and move the paint into the bigger marker...but thats the last resort. anyway i'd like to produce that stuff myself. anyone got any experience in mixing some house paint with turpentine and using it on a paint marker... ? what paint would be the best?

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that is true about it expanding but otherwise its a pretty good all purpose ink....i think it wud be hard to get ur shit like wats in uni paints theres nothing to special about it juss gett a bunch of little ones with the color of ur choice plus either a silver or a gold...make sure they are the same brand....and toss it in a px-30 and u got a sick marker

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yea I guess i'd have to stick with the most simple choice here... at least the ink would be optimum

 

Just in case someone else is thinking about doing this, and using a paint marker with pump system for basically water based ink it would be a good idea to seal the bitch with duct tape from the joint parts. Some of my experimental oil markers have dried stuck even with caps on. just a tip

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Originally posted by chumbawumba

:mad:

Office Quarters

 

However, shipping is best if you buy $25 or more. They have Pilot jumbos for $2.68 and refill for $1.66, so it shouldn't be hard. Can be bought at Office Max, Office Depot, Staples, etc. Get the pencil kind and not the black transfer paper.

 

Sheesh, I didn't think I'd have to answer that!

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by rubbish heap

Denatured alcohol or rubbing alcohol.

 

60F1, you are the man.

 

Thanks! I'm just trying to keep this thread in the realm of the living.

 

Watch adding too much alcohol -- the more you add, the thinner the layer of ink you lay down will be. Use half ink and half alcohol at first and work from there.

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by johndoe

oh, ive only seen blue or black, i didnt even know violet existed.

 

Violet or blue -- use either one.

 

This really does make about the best ink base that I've ever tried. It is cheap to make and gives you that "hands on" feeling.

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by chumbawumba

60F1, whats your opinion on Fiebings Leather Dye?

 

Straight aniline dye in solution. Wicked stain, too -- just ask my kitchen counter. I love the oxblood -- it mixes with blue or violets inks quite well. You can't go wrong with it, sez me.

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by chumbawumba

Cool.

 

I'm in the process of gathering materials for an ink recipe I thought might work out alright. Its gonna be similar to 60F1's recipe, only I'm going to twist it a little because I can't quite obtain everything I need.

 

Violet Carbon Paper Ink

Red Sanford Ink (replacing Purple)

Gentian Violet Powder

Red Pilot Ink (I'm just adding this for the fuck of it)

 

Is it safe to mix Potassium Perm with Gentian Violet?

I asked Rubbish but just to make sure..

If it is I'm adding some of that. Probably a few drops of break fluid, too.

 

I'll let you all know how it works out.

 

It just occured to me that the purple might not be made anymore. I've only got two bottles left that I found in an office supply place locally. Paid way too much for it...

 

I like the sound of this recipe. Adding the Pilot red can't hurt it, either.

 

Word to the wise -- my ink or any ink using stamp pad ink takes a while to dry. If it rains soon after you hit up something it will run a little, but will stay vibrant. Also, it is worse than awful for hitting up glass. Use OTR484 ink for glass...

 

I've been doing a little permanganate/triphenylmethane dye mixing and I can't get anything bad to happen. Watch your oxidiser content -- you really don't need that much. DOT-3, too? You're sick... :eek:

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by chumbawumba

60F1, I saw you mentioning Malachite Green earlier. I did some ebaying and came across 2 Malachite Green auctions. One of them says:

 

Malachite Green Hydrochloride

Malachite Green Oxalate

 

Which do you reckon is the right one? I found some Fuchsin auctions, as well.. once again there are 2 different types. Here they are:

 

Fuchsin New

 

 

Which one do I get?

 

I also found auctions such as Methyl Red, Methyl Orange, and Methyl Violet. Are any of these worth it?

 

OK, you want the malachite green hydrochloride -- that's Basic Green 4. Either of the fuschin dyes will do -- get the cheapest.

 

The methyl violet is basically Gentian violet and is the same dye as used in Garvey violet ink. Take your pick.

 

The red and orange I've not used before because I only use blue, black or violet/purple ink. I've read that the red is really bright and strong, but I couldn't recommend the orange because it would fade so quickly.

 

These guys are great:

Lab Depot

 

But they have a $50 minimum order...

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by WhiteOx

in other words what materials does garveyviolet stain??

 

It was buffed of glass and porcelain without a trace, i am still waiting for the buff results of plastic

 

Plastic is a trouble area. Now we should all know that any ink comes off glass or porcelain with ease, but plastics are different. It depends on the kind of plastic and the porousity. I've hit up public trashcan lids with half OTR484 and half Nero and it stains profusely. The same mix will wipe off a toilet stall wall. One trick is that the ink can't dry too quickly or it won't get a chance to soak in.

 

Weird about your Garvey fading so fast. All dyestuffs fade, but not that fast. I don't use Garvey straight, either. Did you tag metal, painted surface or what?

 

Be seeing you.

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Re: bucket paint

 

Originally posted by PreTeenBrave

i cant find any oil based paint which is the best does. anyone know what is the second best like acrylic,enamel and any others i know latex is crap though..

 

You should read back a few pages. However, I'm not feeling too bellicose today, so:

 

Rustoleum bucket

Ronan Superfine Japan Colors or Ronan Bulletin Colors

1-Shot

 

I don't use anything else. 1-Shot and some of the Ronan Bulletins have lead, so wear fucking gloves, OK?

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by religion

quote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally posted by dlokddlokd

about garvey...is it good on only painted metal?...aluminum?..steel?...what?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

>>> I just had a bunch O' this shit sent to me, and it cost me $70 CDN... don't really want to waste it. 6OF1? Rubb? I have done some experimenting with a Navy Blue Fiebing's/ Violet Garvey mix, looks good, but I'm still waiting for the results.

 

I'd add some kind of black ink for staying power, but that's about it. I use Garvey with OTR484 ink and in a half and half mix with Nero. I don't like to get too complicated. You're on the right track, though. I'd add a touch of black like Montana or Marsh to your current mix to beef it up.

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by rumble

OIL BASED GLOSSY PAINT + A PAINT MARKER

 

my plan would be to fill a large marker (posca, posterman) with that shit. the black paint in the smaller fuckers is the shit, supa opaque and quick drying. I still wouldn't like to rack a bunch of them and move the paint into the bigger marker...but thats the last resort. anyway i'd like to produce that stuff myself. anyone got any experience in mixing some house paint with turpentine and using it on a paint marker... ? what paint would be the best?

 

OK, those markers all use paint that is thinned with xylol/xylene, which will attack plastics. Slowly, but it does. Basically, you could make your dream marker by taking any really good bucket paint (Ronan, Rusto, 1-Shot) and thinning it with xylol. Toluol would work, too, but I'd stay way far fucking away from benzol -- it's too much of a health hazard. Wear gloves.

 

Once again, when you're working with paints and inks and solvents you need to WEAR GLOVES. They keep the ink and paint off you so you don't look so conspicuous with your purple fingers. They keep the nasty solvents off you so that you don't become retarded.

 

Also, just working with an earlier post here:

Instead of taping opened Zigs or Poscas, you could just use some Elmer's glue on the threads and let it set up. That'll keep it from leaking. I use the glue out of the Zig and Sailor glue pens...

 

Be seeing you.

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