6OF1

Because your Garvey is just an analine dye ink. All analine dyes are fugitive -- ie, they fade in light over time. The adivce is right: just read back a little and you'll learn about everything you need to know. Besides, you should be making your own ink, slapnuts. :king: Hey, guys, I'm not dead, just really busy with the new job. Been getting a lot of painting done, though. For my friend in England: I'm really going to send out that package, so don't lose hope. I'm just off track a little... Be seeing you.

You don't even really need to add the methyl violet to this because Garvey is a methyl violet ink. I rock a Garvey/Nero mix all the time and I love it. Even half and half mixes of it look great. Got an OTR160 with that mix in my pocket right now, along with my Leeho full of basic black and a fluor yellow Sakura Solid. Standard equipment, yo. Be seeing you.

Re: CAR PAINT? I've used car paint, but only because a buddy of mine had a paint booth and he would throw me his leftovers. That shit is hella expensive -- like more expensive than 1-Shot or Ronan even. I thinned it with some turpentine and Stoddard, just like normal. Treat it just like you would sign painter's paint. Some of it is fairly translucent, so you might need to add some neutral (white) base to it so that you'll get opaque colour. Be seeing you.

Re: potas permang OK, you're getting a chemical reaction that basically shouldn't be happening. I doubt if it would really do any good. We've covered the fact that permanganate doesn't dissolve in alcohol and my experience with glycols echoes Rubbish's. The best choice with permanganate is to take a given volume of acetone -- say, half a pint or sommat. Then, dissolve some PP in it. Keep on putting in PP until no more will dissolve in the acetone. May take days... Now, you've got some "super acetone" to add to your ink. Plus, the acetone will bind polar solvents and keep everything mixed. I wouldn't use more than 25% in anything because acetone loves to eat plastic... PP doesn't have to seep into a surface to mar it. It works by oxidising the surface. Actually, if you had your PP suspended in DOT-3 it probably wouldn't work as well, because the PP couldn't oxidise the ground. I maintain, together is useless -- use one or the other. Be seeing you.

Throw in a little shellac and a splash of acetone and watch it get almost as much shine as krink... BTW, from whom did you get that methyl violet? I can't read the full URL on the bottle... Be seeing you. PS Back after a downright shit of a workweek -- I didn't have to work Monday, but by Thursday I already had 34 hours. Ouch.

Holy shit, Drunk Sober! That might just be one of the most awesome things I have ever seen. :D Just need to come up with a 3-foot-high tag to go with it... Be seeing you.

Poor Montana -- getting as bad a rep as OTR HTB! :lol: Honestly, I like it. It dries thick and black. Since I doctor the shit out of about every ink I use, it doesn't matter how easy it is to buff. However, the shit is way overpriced. Of course, it would only be $17.50 a litre if Montana NA actually carried it... Be seeing you.

Get that out to you. Why does Nero smell so good? That's my problem with Marsh, Pilot and Montana -- one whiff and you're busted. Especially with the Montana, which has to be one of the most vile smelling inks I've ever used. That and OTR HTB. One fellow on here (can't remember who -- sorry!) suggested adding some oil of eucalyptus, but even that can't tame the stink of Marsh or Pilot. Be seeing you.

OK, took a little more time to think about this. Since it only decomposes in alcohol that makes using alcohol a bit useless. So, you're on the right track. I would dissolved as much permanganate as possible into a given volume of acetone. Say, 100ml. Add some PP and get it to dissolve. Add more, do the same. Do this until no more will dissolve. Filter out the chunks and save your "super acetone" to add to inks. Not too much. Maybe instead of using straight alcohol in ink recipes, one could use 25% of the acetone/PP and 75% alcohol. I've got inks that have around 25% total volume of acetone and they don't melt the marker (yet). If this is confusing, as I've had a tendency to be the last couple of days, feel free to ask away. I haven't messed with permanganate in a long time. Looks like I need to buy some and get working... :idea: Be seeing you.

The interference colours are hella dope. All of them will flow through markers fine. I thought that the macropearl wouldn't, but it will through a valve marker. I wouldn't go more than 10% on the shellac. That's the most I tend to put in my recipes. If you're adding shellac, try adding up, but not more than, 5% acetone to help it all stay mixed. Be seeing you.

"Masstone" is paint makers' talk for straight opaque colour -- not pastel or transparent. Be seeing you.

That's what good oxidisers are for. Strip the ink right out of yer sink. I use that Clorox gel stuff and it seems to burn almost everything right out... Be seeing you.

Heh! Masstone colours rockin' some ass. Nice. Be seeing you.

Werd. And "Viking" is a hella kewl tag. [jealous] Be seeing you.

But, remember, you only use a very little bit of acetone or you will melt your marker. Acetone is vile to plastics and you don't really want more than 10% in your recipe. You raise a valid point, though. I don't know how much acetone would be the proper amount. Experiment. Now I've got to think more. Thanks. :D OK, perhaps it would be good to make two mixes. One would be the acetone/permanganate and the other would be the alcohol/permanganate. Then, use those instead of regular alcohol and acetone in your mixes. That way, you've got some oxidiser acting on your surface no matter what. Be seeing you.

Re: Re: New Ink Recipe Won't stop it from fading. Besides, Garvey already has a polyamid resin in it that subsitutes for shellac. Now, if you could find some shit that protects from UV like the additives from 1-Shot or other sign paint companies. Won't work with ink that well. Maybe some kind of urethane with UV protection. UV is what fades your ink... Be seeing you.

There you go. As for the PearlEx, I love 'em. You can thin shellac with alcohol and add whichever one you want and have passable ink. The MicroPearl has a thousand uses, but mostly I use it to gay up my ink. :eek: Good choice. I've never had much luck using isopropyl for anything. If that was the only alcohol I could get, then I would just use naphtha (Zippo fuel). Yes, the paper filters that go into the coffee maker. The cone-shaped ones are best. Note, however, that you only need to strain your additive if it didn't all dissolve and left chunks at the bottom. You could also just pour it off carefully and leave the chunks. The point is to keep the chunks out of the marker. Now, as to the 100ml problem, well, it isn't. You've got 177ml, so just make more! :D Put in 15g of permanganate and work from that. Doing dye, 20g of dye is still going to make a hella strong solution in 177ml. You don't have to be super exact on this one. No shit -- you should see my kitchen/lab. Good-bye damage deposit! :( The basic black I use regularly now. My old carbon-purple I use now. I also use a Garvey/Nero mix and a Nero/OTR484 mix. I can't keep my hands off the ink mixes, though, so you're lucky. Be seeing you.

OK, you're talking about Sanford Black Top, which is in my recipe. My basic black was invented because Black Top takes too long to dry. Plus, it is not expensive, since you can get it from Clean Sweep for about $1.76 per bottle. I'll bet this Aussie ink is just about the same recipe as mine, except (like a lot of graff sites) they sell it for ten times what it would cost to make it. No beef, just facts. Be seeing you.

Sure, but they'd eat holes in your marker. Moving up from DOT-3 your next step would be to start using potassium permanganate. From there I'd have to think a little... Be seeing you.

Umm, regular shellac at a paint or hardware store. Don't waste your $$$ on the artist's kind, since it is the same thing only more expensive. Varnish won't thin with alcohol. Shellac is soluble in alcohol, therefore better for ink. Be seeing you. BTW, It's a little after ten AM and I just hit up a bus while all you other slapnuts were probably in bed -- ha, ha! :D

Werd. Nothing except ether evaporates faster than acetone. Be seeing you.

New Ink Recipe OK, I've been doing some experimenting lately and came up with this one. I've been using it for a week and I can highly recommend it. Everything should be cheap and easy to find. I'm giving good instructions for the beginners, but if there are any questions please just ask. This stuff is black as hell and very opaque. Once it dries, it is completely weatherproof and can only be removed by acetone or abrasion. It will completely ruin a painted surface. I've been trying out the Black Top for a while and I've come to the conclusion that this is the best shit for mixing your own black inks. Very cheap, too. Find it on www.cleansweepsupply.com. They got 100Ws for cheap, too. Basic Black Ink What you need: 1) 30ml bottle of Pilot Super Colour Marker refill ink (black) 2) 59ml bottle of Sanford Permanent Stamp Pad Ink 58757 ("Black Top") 3) Strong dye solution 4) Shellac 5) DOT-3 brake fluid 6) Acetone 7) One more bottle of Pilot or dye Why you need them: 1) Pilot is good ink and easy to find. 2) Black Top pigments the whole mix and is hella evil. 3) Dye for staining. 4) Shellac binds it all and dries to a tough waterproof surface. 5) DOT-3 is mildly corrosive and slows the drying time a little. 6) Acetone will cause polar solvents to mix. 7) To even out measurements and drying time. How you do it: 1) Get a container that will hold about 6oz and pour a bottle of Pilot into it. Save the Pilot bottle to measure everything else. 2) Measure out 30ml of Black Top and add it. 3) Measure out 30ml of dye solution and add it. You can make your own by adding 10g to 20g of dyestuff to 100ml denatured alcohol. If you don't or can't, then Fiebings is the best choice as a substitute. Oxblood rocks. 4) Fill the Pilot bottle half full of shellac. Fill the other half up to the bottom of the neck with DOT-3. Then, fill up the neck with acetone. That's about 5ml of acetone. Add it in. 5) Add either one more bottle of Pilot or one more bottle of dye or a combination of both. You could use Marsh, but don't use any special graff ink like Nero or Montana. Be seeing you.

First, take a high school chemistry class or read a basic book on chemistry. What you did wrong was not test your mix. Always test something before you just start randomly throwing chemicals together like some kind of retarded chimp, slapnuts! With a strong oxidiser like potassium permanganate you would have absolutely no goddamn reason whatsoever to put in a weak corrosive like DOT-3. DOT-3 only works on surfaces like paint, anyway. Sorry to unload on you like that, but you're the 9-finger posterboy in this situation. Please be more careful and wear gloves. Be seeing you.

Right. And Garvey is price marking ink, so load up your gun and really "tag" everything. Jesus, that was a bad joke. Really bad. :eek: Be seeing you.

Crown, EZYstrip and Sunnyside are all good. You should be able to cop a gallon for about eight smackers. This shit is hella useful. Be seeing you.