6OF1

Re: Update First off -- you're Icelandic? Wow. Well, in that case: Gleður mig að kynnast þér That sounds like a lot of work to get the same effect as adding some of the PearlEx pigments. Good for taking out your frustration on bad CDs, though. Be seeing you.

Re: WHAT THE FUCK I've been giving this some thought and it occurred to me that there were some things that I haven't expounded upon as of yet. Inks made from or mixed with stamp pad and/or price marking inks take longer to dry. They're more susceptible to buffing during the first day or two they're up. This includes being affected by the weather. Mixing with a marker ink like Marsh, Nero or OTR484 will speed the drying time somewhat, but the same rule applies. This is not entirely a bad thing, since the dyes in the ink(s) will have longer to work the surface they're on. Using straight Sanford or Garvey is almost a waste of time, because they will stay wet too long. You don't want your ink to dry too fast, but you also don't want it to dry too slow, either. So, keep this in mind and keep the stamping and pricing inks to about 50% max of your mixture. With stamp pad ink I would even hesitate to go above 25%. A lot of stamping inks contain glycerine to keep them from drying up in the pad. This causes them to dry very slowly, so you don't want too much -- besides, stamping ink goes a long way. Garvey contains a proprietary "polyamid resin mixture". This is to make it waterproof once it has dried. I'm doing a few experiments with shellac and laquer added to inks to see if I can increase their resistance to weather and buff... Be seeing you.

I'm really hooked now -- the 10mm is a good size and the thing pockets so easily. Right now I'm working on finding a good material to cut new nibs from. Let you know how this goes... Be seeing you.

Yes, and in this case the runny kind is better because you're mixing it with medium. Might have to thin it a little to get best results... I will unashamedly admit that I've had trouble getting acrylic paints to work right, but I've added pigment to the "glue" and it works OK. Be seeing you.

Bad News Looks like Sanford doesn't make the purple stamp pad ink anymore. And, the two bottles I thought I had were actually blues. They were at the back of the cabinet and I just assumed they were purple. Crap. Time to find a substitute. On the other hand, the Permanent Black ("Jet Black") looks useful... Check it out I mean, it even has "POISON" on the label -- it has to be awesome. Also, Cosco (who make Garvey) have stamp pad ink as well. Be seeing you.

Yes, I've used sumi ink, both hand-ground and pre-mixed. Sumi ink is good for sumi, which I suck at. When it gets wet, it goes back to being ink again, like gouache goes back to being paint when it gets wet. Not suitable for getting up at all. Waterproof india ink would be a better bet if you were looking for a carbon pigment based ink. (Black Cat is the best and cheapest I've ever found.) Be seeing you.

OK, I'm hungry, I've got to go to work and I haven't got up a single tag today, so I am out of here until at least to-morrow. I don't know why no-one can email me from here, but I'll see what's up with that. 6OF1 out.

OK, those markers all use paint that is thinned with xylol/xylene, which will attack plastics. Slowly, but it does. Basically, you could make your dream marker by taking any really good bucket paint (Ronan, Rusto, 1-Shot) and thinning it with xylol. Toluol would work, too, but I'd stay way far fucking away from benzol -- it's too much of a health hazard. Wear gloves. Once again, when you're working with paints and inks and solvents you need to WEAR GLOVES. They keep the ink and paint off you so you don't look so conspicuous with your purple fingers. They keep the nasty solvents off you so that you don't become retarded. Also, just working with an earlier post here: Instead of taping opened Zigs or Poscas, you could just use some Elmer's glue on the threads and let it set up. That'll keep it from leaking. I use the glue out of the Zig and Sailor glue pens... Be seeing you.

I'd add some kind of black ink for staying power, but that's about it. I use Garvey with OTR484 ink and in a half and half mix with Nero. I don't like to get too complicated. You're on the right track, though. I'd add a touch of black like Montana or Marsh to your current mix to beef it up. Be seeing you.

Re: bucket paint You should read back a few pages. However, I'm not feeling too bellicose today, so: Rustoleum bucket Ronan Superfine Japan Colors or Ronan Bulletin Colors 1-Shot I don't use anything else. 1-Shot and some of the Ronan Bulletins have lead, so wear fucking gloves, OK? Be seeing you.

Plastic is a trouble area. Now we should all know that any ink comes off glass or porcelain with ease, but plastics are different. It depends on the kind of plastic and the porousity. I've hit up public trashcan lids with half OTR484 and half Nero and it stains profusely. The same mix will wipe off a toilet stall wall. One trick is that the ink can't dry too quickly or it won't get a chance to soak in. Weird about your Garvey fading so fast. All dyestuffs fade, but not that fast. I don't use Garvey straight, either. Did you tag metal, painted surface or what? Be seeing you.

OK, you want the malachite green hydrochloride -- that's Basic Green 4. Either of the fuschin dyes will do -- get the cheapest. The methyl violet is basically Gentian violet and is the same dye as used in Garvey violet ink. Take your pick. The red and orange I've not used before because I only use blue, black or violet/purple ink. I've read that the red is really bright and strong, but I couldn't recommend the orange because it would fade so quickly. These guys are great: Lab Depot But they have a $50 minimum order... Be seeing you.

It just occured to me that the purple might not be made anymore. I've only got two bottles left that I found in an office supply place locally. Paid way too much for it... I like the sound of this recipe. Adding the Pilot red can't hurt it, either. Word to the wise -- my ink or any ink using stamp pad ink takes a while to dry. If it rains soon after you hit up something it will run a little, but will stay vibrant. Also, it is worse than awful for hitting up glass. Use OTR484 ink for glass... I've been doing a little permanganate/triphenylmethane dye mixing and I can't get anything bad to happen. Watch your oxidiser content -- you really don't need that much. DOT-3, too? You're sick... :eek: Be seeing you.

Straight aniline dye in solution. Wicked stain, too -- just ask my kitchen counter. I love the oxblood -- it mixes with blue or violets inks quite well. You can't go wrong with it, sez me. Be seeing you.

Violet or blue -- use either one. This really does make about the best ink base that I've ever tried. It is cheap to make and gives you that "hands on" feeling. Be seeing you.

Thanks! I'm just trying to keep this thread in the realm of the living. Watch adding too much alcohol -- the more you add, the thinner the layer of ink you lay down will be. Use half ink and half alcohol at first and work from there. Be seeing you.

Office Quarters However, shipping is best if you buy $25 or more. They have Pilot jumbos for $2.68 and refill for $1.66, so it shouldn't be hard. Can be bought at Office Max, Office Depot, Staples, etc. Get the pencil kind and not the black transfer paper. Sheesh, I didn't think I'd have to answer that! Be seeing you.

A few little things Just a few tips with the glue markers. Look for the Sailor 2-Way glue marker, too. Handy size with 10mm nib. I can fit two in a pocket and they aren't noticable. For those of us who go retarded from time to time, they also unscrew normally, too. Spring is stiff, so if you're a flow control type you will need to trim or do other magic. The glue in Zig and Sailor (also has "Leeho") is just acrylic medium and water. You could mix artist's acrylic colour, pigment or about anything with it and have a paint marker without having to waste the "glue". How about some of those PearlEx pigments? If you do dump the glue, save some of it. Put it on the threads before you screw the marker back together and let it sit a while. That'll seal the threads and keep it from leaking all over you and making you look like a jackass. Be seeing you.

Tagstar is gone... :( Be seeing you.

Right on. Does anyone else use Montana black marker ink? I've run through about 125ml of the stuff and it is black as coal and rather aggressive. Half and half with either Garvey or Nero makes a hella vile mix. Smells evil, though. Could b0b or someone in the UK who would be willing to do me a favour please email me? Be seeing you.

Do you mean plain old ethylene glycol? Like goes in the radiator? This sounds interesting -- the glycol would definitely retard the drying time somewhat and allow the dye to soak the ground. Get back on this and let me know so I can give it a try. Be seeing you.

I haven't seen a pet store that sells the powder/crystal, but only little bottles of 1% to 4% solution which are useless. It is just called "methylene blue" and if you ask for it they will show it to you. Used to kill fungus in aquariums... Be seeing you.

Re: ***Hair Dye??*** Might mix with alcohol based inks and may need coercing with a little acetone. Hair dye is so fugitive that I wouldn't try it on anything, though. Hair is easy to dye -- other surfaces are not. Be seeing you.

OK, it sounds like yours has had all the solvent evaporate out of it. When you put it into any re-used commercial marker like a ZIG/Posca/Uni/etc., I would wrap some regular "scotch" or electrical tape around it to seal it a bit more. Protects from leaks, too, sez the man with the purple hands... The second part is answered already. Be seeing you.

Is this true for all the members of the methyl dye group? Methyl violet and blue are in the acid half of the group -- I wonder if potassium permanganate would react with the basic half... :confused: See folks? We got some information flowin'! In the meantime, get up and stay up. Be seeing you.