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hey

 

so ive got some white kilz mixed with some thinner in a kiwi mop, but i cant seem to get it to juice up very well. the nib feels kind of hard. is my mixture not thin enough? it looks pretty thin when i use it (doesnt cover well) but maybe thats just because there isnt enough flow? is it ok to add mineral spirts to thin it, even when i already put paint thinnner in there? thanks alot.

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Originally posted by blahh

hey

 

so ive got some white kilz mixed with some thinner in a kiwi mop, but i cant seem to get it to juice up very well. the nib feels kind of hard. is my mixture not thin enough? it looks pretty thin when i use it (doesnt cover well) but maybe thats just because there isnt enough flow? is it ok to add mineral spirts to thin it, even when i already put paint thinnner in there? thanks alot.

 

i dont know if your confused or what but paint thinner and mineral spirits are the same thing

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thats hella shit to get and to fill a marker a couple times will cost you like 20 bux or more.....y not jus get fuckin griffin if ur gonna get black ink or if u can find better inks get some fiebings or garvey....but what does raven oil and penetrol do for ur ink or do u juss add it for the fuck of it

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Originally posted by onthelam

thats hella shit to get and to fill a marker a couple times will cost you like 20 bux or more.....y not jus get fuckin griffin if ur gonna get black ink or if u can find better inks get some fiebings or garvey....but what does raven oil and penetrol do for ur ink or do u juss add it for the fuck of it

 

Penetrol is better for paint. I'm actually surprised that it will admix with inks, since it is basically linseed oil. I add it to my mop paint.

 

For the fellow with the dry sponge: Letting a Kiwi sponge sit for even a day will dry it out a bit. You need to keep it worked up or get it worked up before you go out. I keep some old cardboard around to hit a few times to make sure that everything is flowing.

 

The sponge doesn't always suck, either. I can go through about three mops before my sponge is shot, but I only use it to hit dumpsters and other smooth surfaces. The felt tipped one is for rougher shit.

 

Well, I'm back later than promised, but the previous week was bad all around. Let us just say that using many beers to take out one's frustration can result in some situations that need apologies upon becoming sober... :D

 

Next couple of posts should be useful, it is to be hoped.

 

Be seeing you.

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Comparative evaporation rates.

 

Ether 1

Acetone 5

Benzol 9

Ethyl acetate 10

Carbon tetrachloride 11

Methanol 15

Ethyl alcohol 20

Toluol 23

Butyl acetate 30

Naphtha 40

Xylol 45

Amyl acetate 50

Wood turpentine 80

Butanol 100

Gum turpentine 110

Diacetone 180

Amyl alcohol 190

Mineral spirits c.200

Butyl lactate 500

 

 

Shabby chart, I know. However, all the evap rates are relative to ether. Ether is useless to make ink. The methanol and ethyl alcohol rate assumes anhydrous (no water), which is what your denatured alcohol should practically be (it's ethanol with a little methanol, BTW). The mineral spirits is Stoddard Solvent, paint thinner, etc. -- the evap rate is approximate because of the different compositions. Naphtha is lighter fluid...

 

Be seeing you.

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Info on some of the various solvents.

 

Benzol/benzene: Excellent solvent for a number of resins and other organic products, including rubber. Health risk -- I never touch the stuff.

 

Toluol/toluene: Same with less hazard and slower evap. Still a bit touchy and it is a mutagen...

 

Xylol/xylene: The best of the three as far as health hazard goes, but rough on some plastics.

 

Naphtha: A poor solvent for paint and varnish materials. I've had OK luck using it for ink, though.

 

Ethyl acetate: Probably the least unpleasant solvent I've used. It will dissolve lots of things rapidly and makes good ink. High evap rate.

 

Amyl acetate: Similar to ethyl acetate and has a strong odour of bananas. Really.

 

Amyl alcohol: Related to amyl acetate, but with a milder smell and weaker solvent action.

 

Butyl acetate and butyl alcohol (butanol): Similar products with low rates of evaporation. Butyl alcohol is great for inks.

 

Diacetone alcohol: Solvent action similar to acetone; more powerful in most applications. Strong penetrative effect, excellent coupling agent. Softens of dissolves dried linseed oil films. The most interesting of the bunch, but I haven't done much with it.

 

Trichlorethylene: Non-flammable and non-explosive. Powerful solvent for oils, resins, etc. Mixes with alcohol and most solvents, but not water. This is great for ink.

 

Butyl lactate: Fairly useless, except to slow down evaporation.

 

The two most interesting to me at the moment are diacetone alcohol and trichlorethylene. I haven't experimented with either that much, but I'm working on getting some to try out. The diacetone is notable in that it attacks even dried oil paint, which would make some evil tags on painted surfaces.

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by onthelam

good shit 6of1 where cud i get some amyl acetate or some diacetone alcohol

 

First BIG SAFETY NOTICE! I mentioned carbon tetrachloride, I think. This is an easy solvent to find, since it is Carbo-Sol (dry cleaning fluid) and a lot of bug and tar removers. However, if you are the type that heats your ink goop you need to STAY THE HELL AWAY from carbon tet. When you heat it, you will make phosgene and that killed a lot of people in the Great War. Gives you instant pneumonia from which you are very, very unlikely to recover. I must have been braindead to not mention that. Sorry, folks!

 

Next, you can get everything that I've mentioned at The Lab Depot. I deal with them a lot for some of the weirder chemicals and they've never disappointed me. Beware: they have a $50 minimum order.

 

Also, for some of these solvents, check art supply places -- they're all used by artists and they may be able to special order something for you.

 

Be seeing you.

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By way of update, I've hashed out an initial formula for graff india ink. I haven't made a batch yet, as I'm still working on solvent ratios, but I should have something in a week or so.

 

For those who missed it, I'm working on an ink that will be opaque and solid like india ink. It will be waterproof and difficult to buff. It will carry a staining agent and dry at the right rate for good dye penetration.

 

Shit, if it's good enough I might even sell it.

 

Be seeing you.

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I've been up since way early unloading trucks at work, so this may be a little goofy, but...

 

I would love to have a bucket of ballpoint pen ink. Ever notice how hard that shit is to get off anything?

 

I think it has a lot of polyethylene glycol in it, but that's just something I heard some stamp collectors talking about once.

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by blahness

does anyone know any inks or recipes that will stain tile?

 

You aren't going to stain glazed tile. Rough tile could be stained by anything. Most industrial dyestuffs will work on asphault or linoleum tile, so if that's what you're hitting, just use D'Inferno and/or Garvey.

 

Be seeing you.

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Originally posted by El Producto

60F1, im looking forward to the inida ink recipe, seeing as i can get tonnes of the stuff for free..."you are a valued member of this message board and i respect you"

 

Well, it'll be all homemade, right down to the last. Regular india ink won't do because it is made with water and I'm making mine solvent based so that it won't be so pussy. You guys will know as soon as I have what I like.

 

You could take regular waterproof india ink and add a methyl dye to it -- they're soluble in water, too.

 

BTW, my original stamp pad recipe doesn't work well for other colours besides purple. I've been hitting up some tags with a red & blue Sanford mix and it fades hella fast. So, try adding some shellac to the basic recipe. Shellac and borax wouldn't hurt, but plain old shellac will make it waterproof. How much? Dunno -- still working on it. Enough so that it will still flow OK, suppose.

 

Be seeing you.

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question for anyone...

alcohol based solvents are best for disolving crystal violet. is there a method besides applying heat to completely disolve the powder?

 

-the fumes linger too long even when i gently boil with a double boiler, but the end result is a very even and clean ink.

-when i mix without heat, no fumes but the ink is too grainy and my marker nib gets that sludgey build-up.

is there a happy medium?

 

has anyone ever added the powder to straight alcohol first and then after its diluted, combined that with alcohol based ink?

suggestions?

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i had my computer being repaired so i had some good time to mess around with shit in my room, and i have some questions for 60F1.. or anyone that can answer them, rather..

 

i got some potassium permanganate and crytal violet this week. the potassium permanganate is a black "powder" that doesnt look like it will dissolve at all. i added it to a mix of garvey and red pilot ink, and a week later i was still here it crunching around when i shake my marker. i decided to hit up a tag with it, so i put up on a metal phone booth. 5 minutes later i came to look at it has a wierd discoloration too it, so i felt it and the potassium permanganate just sat on top of my tag, didnt dissolve at all.. maybe i got the wrong stuff but it says its an oxidiser on the container and 60F1 said the shit he has was an oxidiser so uh...?

 

anyway i was bored and decided to add some crystal violet to some black garvey.. i shook it up for a while and let it sit for a few hours. this time it was an actual powder that didnt have any trouble dissolving. it was green, but it turned purple after it dissolved. so i got a few tags up with that and it was the same shitty flat color as regular griffin, put with a purplish tint. then i added some black pilot ink (i'd say it was about 10-15 pipettes full) to it and shook it up and added some more crystal violet.. this is definitley a great mix.. one of my favorites.. definitley worth a try !

 

i got some leehos and zigs in the mail because i've heard good stuff about them. the leeho i opened and rinsed it all out and whatnot but i didnt put that circular soft ring thing back under where the nib goes when i put it back together because i didnt think it mattered. i also cut a slice down that tube that sticks out of the valve (the thing that the nib pushes on to get ink into it) like rinse said a while back because it increases drips. i love it because you get nice drips without pushing down on the nib, and they are nice little drips, not ones that totally smother your letters. i like this marker but when i screwed the top back on after i put my ink in it only screws on a little bit then clicks then its not tight anymore.. hard to explain.. like i start screwing it on and then it makes a click noise and its like starting over again.. i can never get it to close tight. so i took some "book tape" or whatever the fuck and taped in around and its been the greatest marker.. i love the little fucker. i dont know if this has happened to anyone else but when i got my zig it was fucking impossible to unscrew so i jammed a knife under the top part and got it open, but now it leaks like a bitch out of the place i stuck the knife. not because i make cuts in it but because i like... it doesnt matter just what do you use for sealing your markers?

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aint ink but...this really applies to uk writers...u get a sudafed nasal spray and empty it and take the lid off the part u put up ya nose and put a hole in in and jam it in the bottle and place a foam sponge in in and fill with enough ink so it covers just over the lid in the bottle and it creates an air lock ink wont go out or in and wen u press the nib against a wall air will go in and ink out..perfect maker..well for 3 quid worth a try..:crazy:

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