XJONATHONX Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Thanks man. My tires are bald and have dry rotting sides haha. Is $42 a good price for them? I looked at a few different retailers just now and thats what it seems they were running. I need innertubes too right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 when you wrapped it, did you get profile design wrap or bontrager wrap? bontrager wrap is one million times easier to wrap then that profile design bullshit. and dont get white wrap... it will get filthy after 5 miles. oh and rubbish, dont put drops on your mountain bike. i ride drop bars on a single track course and it kills my hands. even with gloves and bar wrap under the hudz i can only ride for an hour in the hoods. and you have to ride in the hoods for anything technical because thats where your brakes are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJONATHONX Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 I bought Forte wrap. It was all they had and like $6. I got yellow, and yep, its already dirty. Does anyone ride to work? I live about ten miles from my job and it would be great to stop driving my truck (5.3l v8) there almost everyday. How do you deal with the sweat in the summertime? Do you just carry your work clothes in a backpack and change there? All I wear are dickies pants and a polo at work so im not worried about wrinkles. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 oh, never heard that brand. profile design is 11 bucks ere and its the hardest fucking thing to wrap, bontrager is 16 but its easy to wrap. i buy bontrager. i ride to work, its exactly 10 miles from my driveway to the bike rack at my work. if i have to work in the office il bring a change of clothes but if im working in the shop im going to be sweaty anyway so il work in my riding clothes (unless im wearing spandex). but be sure to waterproof your bag because i use one of those drawstring cheapass bags and the sweat from my back goes right through it and gets the contents soaked. so just waterproof everything and have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap two Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 oh and rubbish, dont put drops on your mountain bike. i ride drop bars on a single track course and it kills my hands. even with gloves and bar wrap under the hudz i can only ride for an hour in the hoods. and you have to ride in the hoods for anything technical because thats where your brakes are. True but that's where CX levers come in... I'm between trying it and not trying it. Seems you have to jump through some hoops to get road levers to work with V-brakes. But it'd be cool to try out on this 29er when the SSCXWC happens this season in Portland. For now I just gotta get this replace the cheapo POS stock bars/stem on this Bikesdirect bike with some cheap used/slightly better stuff in 31.8 from the bike co-op. How does one go about sizing the front-end on a rigid MTB? i.e., length/rise of stem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 well so much for my mountainbike thread... but still, i really would advise against putting drops on a mountainbike. and what do you mean vbrakes? the bike you posted had disc brakes. or is that not the bike your getting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap two Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 The bike I posted above is Travis Brown's baller whip for the Leadville 100... I'm buying a SS rigid 29er, probably today or Monday. It's going to be this POS except with a Regal saddle, Thomson-like seatpost, and better V-brakes: For $200 I can't really say no. Wheelset is shit but can easily be replaced by a tubeless set with whatever decent hubs and Sapim Laser spokes. I'm just looking to have fun on singletrack come winter time and cross-train/improve handling skills. Not really trying to race XC or anything yet. PS God damn, something like this happens every summer in PDX... http://bikeportland.org/2009/08/13/man-on-a-bike-allegedly-dragged-150-feet-following-traffic-altercation/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 wait what?? piece of shit?? thats a motobecane.... the only reason why its so cheap is the fork is rigid and it has Vbrakes. are you getting a deal the bike or are you buying it offline? i need a mtb... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thismachinekills Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 just because its a motobecane doesn't men its not a lower-level bike schwinn is the most popular name in bikes anywhere, and they make some bullshit now. a brand name is no way to judge a bike. and to answer your question from the other thread, its just the monocog, not the flight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 i agree its a lower level bike. but thats only because of the components the frame is a motobecane. ergo, the frame is stiff and strong. aka good. you should have gotten the flight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thismachinekills Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 i got a really good deal on it that i wouldn't have gotten on the flight. plus i don't want a 29er Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap two Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 wait what?? piece of shit?? thats a motobecane.... the only reason why its so cheap is the fork is rigid and it has Vbrakes. are you getting a deal the bike or are you buying it offline? i need a mtb... Buying it from a friend. I'm not saying the frame is shit... it's a Bikesdirect bike, they're usually decent (i.e. not pretty but they work fine) frames with less-than-stellar components. Bikesdirect's business works like this: they buy up the rights of old brand names (Windsor, Motobecane, etc.), get frames out of the same factories that bigger companies use (Fuji for one), and then put their own paint/names on them, spec out some low to decent quality components and price them at near wholesale, then sell in high volumes.The wheelset is shit, the cockpit is apparently unsafe for off-road use according to online reviews, and the cranks are nothing special. That's all fine - it's just a project to slowly upgrade/keep the frame anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 tmk, what year is it? i thought all monocogs were 29ers. the way i look at it, everything will break eventually except the frame. so i buy a bike with a good frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thismachinekills Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 '07, them all being 29ers is pretty recent. and frames definitely break, it just makes more sense to build up parts around a good frame than good parts around a shitty frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 yea i know frames break but i dont jump or hit crazy drops and theres no rock gardens so the only thing that would make a frame break is crashing. and that shouldnt break a frame, just the components. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap two Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Yeah I'm with Acer on that one... and if the frame eventually gives out, fuck it, I'll get me a proper scandium Kona Big Unit. Those things are butter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thismachinekills Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 i dont jump or hit crazy drops and theres no rock gardens now theres your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 no, i race. i go for speed. hence not wanting a full suspension bike. and rubbish, have you heard anything about kona's fire mountain delux? i just may buy it because the delux has some semi okay components (i already have a nice seat and it comes with disc brakes. the brakes are the first thing id upgrade if i had a bike with v brakes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap two Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Haven't heard a thing but Kona has a generally good reputation. Yo, as far as dry stopping power, I'm under the impression that v-brakes are just fine. Why not? Throw some wet mud in the mix and I can see the advantage of discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 there is an extreme benefit to disc brakes when it comes to stopping power. with a decent set of hydraulic disc brakes you can stop the maximum force with just one finger on the lever. and thats impossible with vbrakes unless your going 5 miles per hour. that and you can break your cable by pulling the lever too hard with vbrakes which is a hell of a bad thing to happen when your riding. plus disc brakes just look so much better. in every way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joker Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 Got disc brakes on my cross bike, which I also use for winter (i.e. wet weather) training and since buying the bike I have become a firm believer in disc brakes for any kind of wet or muddy conditions. I understand why folks boo and hiss agains them in cross but for wet climate riding they're nothing short of phenomenal. Of course now I want that Redline Monocog Flite 29er so bad... It's painful to think about. Who is it that rides one of those in here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubbish heap two Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 You MTB dudes never answered my previous question about how to go about sizing the front end with stem length/rise... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 Of course now I want that Redline Monocog Flite 29er so bad... It's painful to think about. Who is it that rides one of those in here? its an amazing bike IF you buy a suspension fork. dont get the regular monocog, its made from a different type of steel and isnt nearly as strong. other then putting a good fork on it, its the perfect SS bike. and ironically, i went riding today and the trails were wet and all i heard all day was the screeching coming from my rim brakes. You MTB dudes never answered my previous question about how to go about sizing the front end with stem length/rise... what do you mean by "sizing"? fitting it to your body or determining what components you need to buy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
$HOOD RICH$ Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 anyone know where to get cheap flipflop hubs and wheel sets online?? Don't try to clown either, im building a bike and sellin it on craigslist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KM4RT Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 You MTB dudes never answered my previous question about how to go about sizing the front end with stem length/rise... Length of the stem will affect handling. Shorter stems (under 70mm) are preferred for quick snappy steering response and control, usually on DH or freeride bikes. And your position is obviously more aggressive. Like this. Longer stems (~120mm) are sort of the opposite, they're better for a more relaxed stretched out position on the bike, and are common on XC bikes. Like this. Angle/rise, similar thing again. On DH type bikes the angle is very low, usually 0-10deg. XC stems are usually a bit higher (5-15deg). The higher angle will give you a more relaxed position. If you're building yourself, maybe leave the steerer tube a bit long, then you can experiment with moving a stem up/down (with spacers) to find the best position. That's a pretty general overview. Really depends on the kind of riding you're gonna be doing. And you have to consider comfort as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEYS TBM Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 a direct mount stem straight to your triple clamp forks is perfect for a DH rig.. nice and low great response for steering.. or even better and lighter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 i would NOT trust that for a dh rig. but thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJONATHONX Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 So about 6 miles into my ride last night my left crank arm got real loose. Like, at the pedal end there is about an inch of travel. When I found the bike, the left crank arm didn't have a nut on it. So yesterday I took the nut off the other side and went to home depot and bought one that was the same size. So I put that shit on and shit and went for my ride last night around midnight. The first six miles it was tight. I read around on the internet and it seems like when this happens it means its time for new cranks? Id ask on the forums I read that on but all the threads were from like 04 and 05 (google search). Now, I'm trying to put as little money into this bike as possible. Is it time to replace the cranks? Would buying a set of used cranks be a good idea? Thanks a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acer910 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 im thinking this bike is going to become a pit. as soon as you fix one thing something else breaks, before you know it youve bought an entirely new bike but with an oldass frame. unless you can get a really good deal on some cranks id sell the whole bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R@ndomH3ro Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 So about 6 miles into my ride last night my left crank arm got real loose. Like, at the pedal end there is about an inch of travel. When I found the bike, the left crank arm didn't have a nut on it. So yesterday I took the nut off the other side and went to home depot and bought one that was the same size. So I put that shit on and shit and went for my ride last night around midnight. The first six miles it was tight. I read around on the internet and it seems like when this happens it means its time for new cranks? Id ask on the forums I read that on but all the threads were from like 04 and 05 (google search). Now, I'm trying to put as little money into this bike as possible. Is it time to replace the cranks? Would buying a set of used cranks be a good idea? Thanks a lot. Are you tighting the shit out of them? Really get some torque when you tighten your cranks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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