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rubbish heap

INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

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Originally posted by whoneedsavet@Sep 28 2005, 02:15 PM

Im from the UK, can I buy potassium permanganate from the chemist? If so what do I want it for lol

All you have to say it's for is to get rid of the parasites in your fishtank. They probably won't ask, unless they are incredibly nosy. If they don't have it, ask them to order it- it's no big deal, since most people would never guess that you would be using it as an ink additive.

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Originally posted by Inhalant+Sep 28 2005, 11:10 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Inhalant - Sep 28 2005, 11:10 PM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-shai hulud@Sep 22 2005, 01:13 AM

Don't make fun...

 

No, I've been looking for a good WB silver. Someday when I have "disposable income," I'll go to my local Dick Blick and get some...have you used it to cover anything or on dark paper, and how does the opacity hold up if it's thinned? Let me know if you tested these.

 

[attachmentid=21784]

 

Here's some more- on the right, One-Shot is still the best paint I've ever used. Period. It's what signpainters have used for decades, and use to this day. It comes in dozens of colors, with five different formulas. The two main problems are...1) It's pricey....if you can find it, it's $4 for 4 oz. 2) It contains lead, and is therefore really toxic, but it is 100 % weatherproof...tags I did with it on metal grates are still going strong after three years of sun, rain, and feet. It requires a special "reducer" to thin it correctly, which changes only the fluidity, and not the opacity, so it will work in a mop...however, I only use a little at a time since it eats plastic in a hurry. It will not work in a pen- don't bother. It's worth having if you want to experiment with this...but, I only recommend this paint to people who have some painting/fine art experience, and know how to take precautions with lead paint.

 

On a less serious tip, Odds 'n Ends to the left is great, since it's easy to find, cheap and not as bad for you as One-Shot. It thins with almost anything, but like most oil-based paint, it's tricky to get it thin-but-not-streaky without practice. I usually use a little xylene. Once you get it right, it's a nice, long-lasting opaque paint. It also has a good (40+) color selection. Weatherproof, works well in mops, and can be used to refill some paint pens in a pinch, with varying results.

 

can we just use the regular "odds and ends" just throw that fucker in a pen den i'll work? will is last long time a permenet?? sorry i'm curious.

[/b]

Wow, good timing! I was here posting when you were....

 

1)No, you have to thin it Odds n' Ends- it's too thick to flow otherwise.

Lately I use japan drier to thin my mix...but, just a little bit, like 5-10 drops for a mop. Which brings me to the next point- use a mop for this mix, it will clog pens and dry out tips. And, it will run for years if left alone, and since it has a plasticizer added, it's a bitch to remove.

 

This stuff takes a few tries to get the mix down. Only use a 1/4 bottle per batch, so you can adjust the mix if it streaks or won't flow.. Use Q-tips to do line tests- when it's opaque, and it flows about the same as chocolate syrup, there you go. Good luck.

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I cracked this really old can of Varathane open last night.

 

[attachmentid=22122]

 

It was still good, forty years later, and a nice, deep midnight blue, so I mied some in a mop with japan drier and tried it...

 

[attachmentid=22126]

 

I love that color, but I need to thin it so it flows better. But, not right now.

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All art stores and better paint stores carry japan drier. I like it since it's a solvent as well as a drying accelerator, and it doesn't seem to alter paint color at all, as long as small amounts are used.... a little goes a long way.

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thanks man finally a simple mixture i understand. gotta stop by and grab some japan dryer and a shit load of odds and ends. alright man keep dem "SIMPLE" recipes coming.

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Originally posted by Inhalant@Sep 30 2005, 03:27 AM

thanks man finally a simple mixture i understand. gotta stop by and grab some japan dryer and a shit load of odds and ends. alright man keep dem "SIMPLE" recipes coming.

No problem. Just about any oil-based paint can be reduced this way, so don't limit yourself to Odds N' Ends...Pactra, Varathane, Ronan, Hascolac, Testors, Rusto Industrial and PT, Short Cuts, Kilz, and One-Shot are all brands of Oil based fliud enamels and lacquers I've used and abused. Look for the words, "deep oil-base", "alkyd", and "oil-based enamel" on cans of paint you see around. If you are going to be messing with old paint, be sure to wear a mask and gloves at least part of the time, and use two different containers to mix and store each color...I use Jagermeister bottles, myself. I found that glass is the best way to go for the job.

 

By the way, the only two solvents I ever use are xylene and JD, and JD is becoming the ONLY thinner I'll use. Xylene is too volatile most of the time to accurately mix/thin down paint, it's really toxic, it melts plastic and eventually ruins whatever pen or mop it's put in and you have to use about three times as much xylene as you would japan drier. I've had the same half-pint of JD for two years and I use it all the time. A lot of experienced painters have told me that I'm using the wrong thing, but hey, it works. If you can find it, One Shot reducer does the same thing and doesn't change the opacity of the paint it's added to...but, it's expensive and it's nasty stuff to work with all the same.

 

Most importantly, I only use mops for thinned paint...most pens don't seem to work well, if at all, for me. You might be the exception to that, but I wouldn't put an untested mix in a nice pen unless I had plenty of them in case it fucks up.

 

If you ever get stuck, a lot of hobby shops that sell models or cast iron figures usually have one guy who is a paint guru, and if you keep the conversation and questions limited to model painting, more often than not they'll be happy to help you out...I learned a few useful tricks this way.

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Originally posted by MAR@Sep 29 2005, 09:22 PM

Hey shai id love to see a recipe, pm me if you can.

Here's my latest black ink recipe...it's simple, but the inks I'm using right now are difficult if not downright impossible to find. Some of them are on the Web, though, so if you are good at finding stuff there and persistent enough, you can find them or adequate substitutes.

 

Here it is- I'll explain what each ink is, and what I think it does for the mix. A big hint I can give you is that I only use industrial grade, solvent based stamping inks...That's what all these are sold for, so if you find a good commercial rubber stamp source, you're in. As far as bluffing them into thinking you're legit, that's entirely up to you.

 

Two parts Marsh T-Grade, black- for stencilling boxes and crates. I use this for its flat black color, and the drips.

 

One part Garvey XT-70, black or violet- old school pricing gun/cash register ink- obsolete and hard to find. This is the stain.

 

One part Aero Specialty ink, black- another commercial stamping ink that's acetone based. Rare, and expensive (about $32/pint). This adds opacity, and the acetone evaporates quickly so the ink dries faster.

This is one of my all-time favorites, and highly recommended.

 

Mix all three in a glass bottle by shaking it for a few minutes. Then I add a little japan drier to help it mix and to speed drying.

 

There you go..good luck with finding some of that stuff. BTW, every ine of those inks work really well alone, so don't dump full bottles of them into a batch...I usually make this out of small quantites of leftover ink. Sometimes, other ink goes into the batch, but the first three are the ones you really need to find to copy this mix.

 

Sometimes, I'll add Fiebing's USMC black leather dye for a stain if I have it, but it's also hard to find. Be creative, and don't mix water based ink with solvent inks. That's the biggest rule that no one seems to cover.... :rolleyes:

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Originally posted by shai hulud+Sep 30 2005, 06:14 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (shai hulud - Sep 30 2005, 06:14 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-MAR@Sep 29 2005, 09:22 PM

Hey shai id love to see a recipe, pm me if you can.

Here's my latest black ink recipe...it's simple, but the inks I'm using right now are difficult if not downright impossible to find. Some of them are on the Web, though, so if you are good at finding stuff there and persistent enough, you can find them or adequate substitutes.

 

Here it is- I'll explain what each ink is, and what I think it does for the mix. A big hint I can give you is that I only use industrial grade, solvent based stamping inks...That's what all these are sold for, so if you find a good commercial rubber stamp source, you're in. As far as bluffing them into thinking you're legit, that's entirely up to you.

 

Two parts Marsh T-Grade, black- for stencilling boxes and crates. I use this for its flat black color, and the drips.

 

One part Garvey XT-70, black or violet- old school pricing gun/cash register ink- obsolete and hard to find. This is the stain.

 

One part Aero Specialty ink, black- another commercial stamping ink that's acetone based. Rare, and expensive (about $32/pint). This adds opacity, and the acetone evaporates quickly so the ink dries faster.

This is one of my all-time favorites, and highly recommended.

 

Mix all three in a glass bottle by shaking it for a few minutes. Then I add a little japan drier to help it mix and to speed drying.

 

There you go..good luck with finding some of that stuff. BTW, every ine of those inks work really well alone, so don't dump full bottles of them into a batch...I usually make this out of small quantites of leftover ink. Sometimes, other ink goes into the batch, but the first three are the ones you really need to find to copy this mix.

 

Sometimes, I'll add Fiebing's USMC black leather dye for a stain if I have it, but it's also hard to find. Be creative, and don't mix water based ink with solvent inks. That's the biggest rule that no one seems to cover.... :rolleyes:

[/b]

 

 

Hey man if you still have some of that garvey I really need some so pm me and we can work something out asap. Thanks for the usefull info too I haven't used one shot before but im going to check it out looks like it beats rusto.

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anyone knows abuot indian ink? i was walking in my local craft shop and seen it didn't know it if was good or not. my boys told me it's for tats but i wanna know about pen/mops. alright then.

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Quickly, before I go to the store...

Hey man if you still have some of that garvey I really need some so pm me and we can work something out asap. Thanks for the usefull info too I haven't used one shot before but im going to check it out looks like it beats rusto.

Sure thing. I have a few bottles left, so either PM or email me. Let me know if you have anything good to trade, besides spray paint- I just came up, so I'm probably set till the new year for cans.

 

 

Originally posted by Inhalant+Oct 1 2005, 01:17 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Inhalant - Oct 1 2005, 01:17 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'>anyone knows abuot indian ink? i was walking in my local craft shop and seen it didn't know it if was good or not. my boys told me it's for tats but i wanna know about pen/mops. alright then.

[/b]

It's waterbased, but it looks nice. I use it for drawing, myself. It works in any clean pen or mop....You can bomb with it, but when it gets wet, goodbye tags.

 

 

<!--QuoteBegin-FriedGreentomatoes@Oct 1 2005, 04:26 AM

indian ink sucks

 

does anyone has tips for cheap inkt, because my marker does use lots of ink and i dont want to by ink for 8 dollars

When you said eight bucks, what kind of ink were you talking about? That's not a bad price if you get at least a half pint of solvent based ink.

 

grisdbk25.jpg

 

 

The cheapest thing to use is Griffin black shoe dye. It is universally available, and costs two bucks and change. It's thin enough to use in pens, alcohol-based, and it's one of the most underrated stains out there. It also has a wand built into the cap, so you don't even need to use a pen.

 

f111.jpg

 

This is my favorite. Four bucks for four ounces, same as Griffin, and it stains even harder. Look for it at a shoe repair shop, and try to get USMC Black. That's the one...black is fine, too.

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that leather dye...........do i just throw it in. no need no special stuff? good for pens or mops? stains last for a "WHILE"? shoots. thanks again shai hulud.

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Yo Shai, I've used lots of Nero, and done alot of mixing and it just seems to water down shit. Definetly not for outdoor use. Think of staight Violet garvey outdoors in sun and rain, exept it fades 50% faster. Also when mixed it with black t-grade it just seems to dilute it with fadeablility. I've heard nothing but good shit about it for insides though. It's just seems like black leather dye to me. In any case, Fiebings is better and cheaper. I perfer a 30% Garvey / 70% Marsh mix anyday.

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Now if only I could find some PP or GV in Canada. Everywhere I've gone says its been discontinued because safer alternatives are available now. ??? :confused:

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violet fiebigs is the hot shit. shit looks almost like garvey (the color of the purple, but not that much) but, i found that there needs something added to it to make it hold up for longer

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are there any stores that you guys know of that sell inks? ive ganked a lot of crap ink from office depot but those inks arent really that good. its some off brand shit and i wanna step up to the professional marsh, griffin, or garvey. ive looked in michaels, a local art store, officemax and still cant find shit. the only place i can find it is online and i dont got no credit card for that kinda shit. any info will help. thanks & peace.

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Has anyone fucked with sanford eternal ink? I added some to my pilot, they couldnt buff it as easy but it still came off

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Flip, if you send me a few bucks to cover a bottle and postage, I'll send you some (4 oz.) ink to try out. Since you aren't too far from me, it should get to you pretty quickly. Think about it, and PM me if you want to do that. I literally have a couple gallons of ink sitting in the studio, and there's no way I'm gonna run out soon.

 

Shoe repair shops have the Fiebing's dye, usually. It's not an ink, nor is Griffin- they're for redying leather shoes. The Fiebing's is professional grade, and comes in something like three dozen different colors. And, it's dirt cheap.

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Anyone know how to make a good stainer using sandford blacktop stampad ink, Artline ink and pilot ink? Iv searched this thread alot of times but i havnt found the answer to my question.

please help because i got a shitload of those inks at my workplace! lol! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:

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