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rubbish heap

INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

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So I stopped by in this one random items shop in chinatown and found a few 2oz bottles of sanford roll-on stamp pad, quick dry ink, but in violet. Up th that point I never came across them before, and they looked pretty old too.

 

So i obtained and few and was wondering if anyone has experience with this ink. Stuff any good?

 

Im only hoping its like the sanford roll-on permanent black ink. Niggas know.

 

P.S.- Anyone got any suggestions for easily popping out those roller balls in those type of containers? I broke many things trying to get them out before. And more inportantly lost alot of of ink in the process.

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Originally posted by MC P.@Sep 18 2005, 08:02 AM

Yo shai, how about if i put it in a virgin leeho??

You know, I've just never had much luck with Krink in anything but a mop...it dries the pen out really fast, and sometimes all that comes through the tip is solvent, and no silver. Maybe it's just me that it happens to. I'd recommend Bluepath mops over anything else. This is also my connect for these, by the way.

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Originally posted by caffeine@Sep 18 2005, 03:14 AM

So I stopped by in this one random items shop in chinatown and found a few 2oz bottles of sanford roll-on stamp pad, quick dry ink, but in violet. Up th that point I never came across them before, and they looked pretty old too.

 

So i obtained and few and was wondering if anyone has experience with this ink. Stuff any good?

 

Im only hoping its like the sanford roll-on permanent black ink. Niggas know.

 

P.S.- Anyone got any suggestions for easily popping out those roller balls in those type of containers? I broke many things trying to get them out before. And more inportantly lost alot of of ink in the process.

I cut the tops all the way off with a razor, or squeeze just underneath the ball with some pliers. (That sounded bad.) It should just pop right out. Cutting it is faster, though.

 

That Sanford shit is dope, for sure. I've had fun with it, and it's easy to find. I like how it says, "poison" right on the front, too. I just have more exotic taste, lately. I guess if you smell the violet ink, that's a big clue. If it's got good solvent, it'll let you know. Chances are better if it's old, too.

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Originally posted by fulek@Sep 18 2005, 03:49 PM

is acetona a helpful supply for fast drying on alkydalic paint?

It may help, try japan drier for even faster drying.

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I've made my mop with some master alkydalic gold and some alcohol for drying, so the golden paint don't cover anything... what could i add to make it "cover"? :confused2:

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Here, I found this...

 

Japan drier speeds the drying of oil based paint, enamel, and varnish. It works with tung oil to do the same. It can be found at paint stores or possibly a hardware store that has a good selection of paints. Artists also use it to speed the drying process so they can work on oil paintings faster. It has petroleum distillates, so does many ohter products as vaseline, and naphthenic salts. I took this info off the can, so beyond the fact it works I can not be of more help. I know that overnight the tung oil is dry when it would normally take a couple of days. It does not appear to change any of the qualities. Hope this helps.

 

No alcohol, though...add more paint, use a little of the above, and that ought to do it.

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Originally posted by shai hulud@Sep 19 2005, 07:13 PM

Here, I found this...

 

Japan drier speeds the drying of oil based paint, enamel, and varnish. It works with tung oil to do the same. It can be found at paint stores or possibly a hardware store that has a good selection of paints. Artists also use it to speed the drying process so they can work on oil paintings faster. It has petroleum distillates, so does many ohter products as vaseline, and naphthenic salts. I took this info off the can, so beyond the fact it works I can not be of more help. I know that overnight the tung oil is dry when it would normally take a couple of days. It does not appear to change any of the qualities. Hope this helps.

 

No alcohol, though...add more paint, use a little of the above, and that ought to do it.

 

 

ive used japan drier in some krink i made and didnt notice that much of a difference.......maybe if i used some other paint thats mad o.d. that takes a couple days to try (i just used janovic chrome and yes it was oil based duh) oh yeah an the japan drier also helps thins it a little

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Originally posted by shai hulud@Sep 16 2005, 04:24 PM

Stamp refill ink (Procolor, Viking) is in almost every office, and I use it all the time, with great results. The bottles can be used as a pen, too...wait, are you bombing at work? Wow, you must hate your job. Be careful, that shit has a weird way of biting you in the ass. Oh, the ink jet ink isn't too hot, btw...powder toner is a good ink additive, however. Take some home and try it out.

not quite "bombing" exactly, more just throwing up lines to test it out. and also...

the powder toner. i have shit load of that here, you suggest just mixing it with ink? i tryed mixing some with water when i first found it. but that shit idnt work out.

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Mix the toner with ink to flatten it (the ink). I think toner just floats on water, since water isn't enough of a solvent to break it down.

 

Silver ink? Smell it...if it gets you high, it's good, or if it says, "xylene, toluene, flammable, danger, peligro..." Look for solvents. And, even if it's water-based... if it's free, it sure ain't a waste of money, so go nuts! I've used water based stuff before in a pinch...

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Yo shai, you said in your recipe to use stamp ink... marketeed my viking or procolor.... how about the stanford stamp ink? Also, if i took some blue stanford stamp ink and mixed it in with a black otr htb mini thats half used... will i get a cool dark blue... or will it not mix and get all gay and gunky? thanks

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bad news about the ink, its water soluable therefore the first time it rains its gone.

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Originally posted by MC P.@Sep 21 2005, 03:18 PM

Yo shai, you said in your recipe to use stamp ink... marketeed my viking or procolor.... how about the stanford stamp ink? Also, if i took some blue stanford stamp ink and mixed it in with a black otr htb mini thats half used... will i get a cool dark blue... or will it not mix and get all gay and gunky? thanks

Hmmmmm...shit, where did you get a htb? That's what I want to know...Also...

 

....Why am I suddenly the only one answering questions here????

:confused: :confused:

 

....I guess that makes me the alpha nerd. :rolleyes: I've had problems with mixing stamp ink...The sole exception being Garvey, of course. Those little squeeze bottles are underrated pens, though. Or put it in another pen.

 

That's too bad about the silver...does it work well for fine art stuff? I'm always looking for nontoxic metallics that cover well. Krink is bad news indoors and it's impossible to cover...

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Originally posted by shai hulud@Sep 22 2005, 12:49 AM

That's too bad about the silver...does it work well for fine art stuff? I'm always looking for nontoxic metallics that cover well. Krink is bad news indoors and it's impossible to cover...

 

Yeh it should work alright for fine art/ indoors work....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

........alpha nerd :haha:

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Don't make fun...

 

No, I've been looking for a good WB silver. Someday when I have "disposable income," I'll go to my local Dick Blick and get some...have you used it to cover anything or on dark paper, and how does the opacity hold up if it's thinned? Let me know if you tested these.

 

[attachmentid=21784]

 

Here's some more- on the right, One-Shot is still the best paint I've ever used. Period. It's what signpainters have used for decades, and use to this day. It comes in dozens of colors, with five different formulas. The two main problems are...1) It's pricey....if you can find it, it's $4 for 4 oz. 2) It contains lead, and is therefore really toxic, but it is 100 % weatherproof...tags I did with it on metal grates are still going strong after three years of sun, rain, and feet. It requires a special "reducer" to thin it correctly, which changes only the fluidity, and not the opacity, so it will work in a mop...however, I only use a little at a time since it eats plastic in a hurry. It will not work in a pen- don't bother. It's worth having if you want to experiment with this...but, I only recommend this paint to people who have some painting/fine art experience, and know how to take precautions with lead paint.

 

On a less serious tip, Odds 'n Ends to the left is great, since it's easy to find, cheap and not as bad for you as One-Shot. It thins with almost anything, but like most oil-based paint, it's tricky to get it thin-but-not-streaky without practice. I usually use a little xylene. Once you get it right, it's a nice, long-lasting opaque paint. It also has a good (40+) color selection. Weatherproof, works well in mops, and can be used to refill some paint pens in a pinch, with varying results.

Image112.jpg.11654d5bde080a16db8671185fb4e696.jpg

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Ok the deal with the ink is it is a metalic dust that is being suspended in a form of gel, sort of like a gel pen. I dont know what the opacity would look like if you tryed to thin it but it would most likely be ok. The ink itself is rather thin so it wouldnt take much to make it run. Add water. Treat it like you would treat any other drawing ink thats the way it was designed to be used. The ink does carry a high pricetag if thats a issue, its approximatly 7.50 per one of those vials above, which i think is two onces. I was going to make a chapstick mop with it until i found out that its usless for my work.

 

Still on my quest to crack the secret of krink...which btw I'm close.

 

The I too can be an alpha nerd!

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could i add some powder pigment to some...lets say denatured alcohol to make a stainer...would it work? i havent tried it but am gonna try to get this crazy powder pigment (i opened the jar to look at how the color was [rasberry] like and i guess i kiinda breathed some in cuz i had purple-pinkish boogers for a day, and i rubbed some inbetween my fingers an it stained pretty damn good)

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first post.

ive got this zig marker and emptied it, ive got some stamp pad refill ink and i tried using it, but after a few days of rain and stuff its faded like mad. what can i add to make it stain more? will leather dye work?

 

also can i thin out some of this sherwin williams floor enamel, like for garaage floors that i have and use it in my marker.

 

how can i test to see if the paint will flow through my nib. its a zig 2 way glue marker. i dont want to get it all set up and the paint not flow.

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ay nerdx, dont put paint into one of those zig markers. mattafact, dont put paint into any marker. it would just clog up the nib and you got a crap marker that wont write for shit. even thinned out paint is a no no in a marker. stick to ink. its better anyway. paint is for mops.

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