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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


rubbish heap

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Originally posted by destroya

Marsh - similar to pilot, don't think it contains xylene. check the label on the tin.

OTR H2B - no idea.

Montana - heard its not worth fooling around with because its the same as zig and therefore waterbased and easy to buff - but no xylene.

Corio - comes in plastic container, see statement below.

Nero - see corio.

Aerosol Art Bombing - see montana.

Pilot - alcohol based, don't think it has xylene.

City-Wide - probably alcohol based.

Garvey - heard it's a mixture of dye and ink, and it comes in a plastic container so see statement below.

 

thanks.

 

here's a big hint: you can't put xylene based inks in plastic containers, because it eats plastic. therefore, whatever is in a plastic marker is not xylene based (so griffin for instance contains no xylene).

 

also, it may not be the scent of xylene that is so distinguishable...

 

to my best knowledge, the main pens that contain xylene are paint pens, like a krylon pen or uni-paint.

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Originally posted by rubbish heap

here's a big hint: you can't put xylene based inks in plastic containers, because it eats plastic. therefore, whatever is in a plastic marker is not xylene based (so griffin for instance contains no xylene).

 

also, it may not be the scent of xylene that is so distinguishable...

 

to my best knowledge, the main pens that contain xylene are paint pens, like a krylon pen or uni-paint.

 

i kind of figured there would be an issue montana and aerosol art. i knew that montana paint is waterbased, but what i'm talking about is the ink. same for aerosol art.

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yeah just a heads up, i'm almost completely positive the only type of ink with xylene is paint / paint pens / silver ink / krink, and everything else is either water or alcohol based, therefore it doesn't contain xylene (but can still smell, although mildly).

 

i've heard about candy ink, where it stains hardcore and smells like candy, that they use on transit in SF. no idea on how to make it, and no ones giving the recipe :crazy:

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Yeah Candy Ink!

 

I used to use it for Insides.... I havent got a clue wether the way I did it was the same as the Yanks and I never met anyone else who botherd but........

 

All I uded to do was get some food flavourings or "essences" e.g. banana flavoring or Vanilla essence, and just mix a bit in with my ink....its all like 80p a bottle so I used to sport a different flavour each few days.... my fave was Rum flavouring>but I think that just made people more aware.

 

well thats how I did it. just make sure you dont add to much otherwise it will start to diloute your stain and you dont want that.

 

ohh and whilst Im posting.... I may aswell just give my recipea.

 

Inferno 40%

pink Corio 50%

dash of Red Fiebins 10%

gentian Purple cristals> just a few...

then 2 grams of Methylene Blue Powder....

 

then put the lot in your marker with a mixing ball..... Works for me.....

 

if you cant get shit where you are just try Mixing Punch Leather dye with teak wood stain, and sticking in a Kiwi< a bumpkin classic from the early 90's:crazy:

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Fuck knows sunny, I wasent a bumpkin back then....ermm I presume stain for teak wood....but any kind of wood stain will have a similar effect.... I once used blue multi pyrpose wood stain and a bit of inferno when I had nuthin else and wood stain was all I managed to rack, it worked ok so I presume all wood dyes are the same/have the same or similar affect.

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Re: ABOUT GENTIAN VIOLET

 

Originally posted by kin0nerMDK

I GUESS THERES MORE THAN ONE FORM OF THE VIOLET STUFF, I GOT THE LIQUID FORM, I HAVE PILOT INK AND MARSH INK, WHICH WOULD IT LEAVE A GHOST BEST WITH?? AND ANY HELP WITH WHAT I CAN ADD WITH THE VIOLET O HELP LEAVE A BETTER STAIN??? THANKS PEACE

 

those inks are so similar, but marsh is *slightly* stronger. mix some leather dye into it along with your gentian violet and its definitely going to help the stain/

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Originally posted by rubbish heap

INK RECIPE NUMBER TWO

 

This ones for homemade Krink. This is some of the easiest shit to make. First, get some Rusto Aluminum paint. Its nice and silver. Next get some Paint thinner. Mix it to whatever proportion you want - the more thinner, the more drippy. You can also add a little bit of brake fluid, for staining power.

 

Another quality brand of bucket paint for mops is ONE SHOT. It's ultra glossy, lead based, and used to paint signs on the street.

 

Any questions are welcome.

 

 

.......... wouldnt the pressure in the paint make the marker bust when you add rusto paint in it????

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can anyone tell me if "rain-ex" is good.........aparently its some thing that you put on car windows to make them kind of waterproof....and someone told me that its kinda good to mix........but hes only been writin for a few weeks so im not sure..........anyone tell me any info???

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Originally posted by iwaz_here594

.....yo, i racked a few Freehand markers 0.6"... damn, the paint that comes with them suck!!!!!

anyone ever used those? are those good to refill? if so what recipie shoud i use with it..

 

sounds like they're waterbased, just like a zig. in that case, throw out the one you have and get a new one, don't let the ink get into the nib and drain out all liquid, and than refill with an alcohol based ink and mix it with leather dye. i've had a decent experience with using solely griffin, but i'd recommend mixing in ink as well such as pilot to help the flow.

 

either way, it won't flow as well as the original waterbased (weak) paint, but it'll be more permanent.

 

Originally posted by TFSworldwide

the kid that started this thread shouldnt even write

"whats a roller" ; "latex or oil" ; "does it dry fast"

 

THE DEFENSE RESTS

 

what the fuck are you talking about? I started this thread. :rolleyes:

 

Originally posted by iwaz_here594

.......... wouldnt the pressure in the paint make the marker bust when you add rusto paint in it????

 

sorry i didn't make this clear earlier, but i meant to say use rusto BUCKET paint, not the stuff that comes out of a spray can.

 

Originally posted by HOVIE

can anyone tell me if "rain-ex" is good.........aparently its some thing that you put on car windows to make them kind of waterproof....and someone told me that its kinda good to mix........but hes only been writin for a few weeks so im not sure..........anyone tell me any info???

 

i don't know about the quality of rain ex or whatnot, but if i were you i would not be trusting some kid who's only been writing for a couple weeks as to whats good or not.. shit.

 

edit: after doing a little research into it, i discovered what it actually is... fluid that helps to keep things lubricated so that when rain lands on a windshield, it seeps right off. and than i found it how to buff it - a 50/50 combination of denatured alcohol and water. eh, sounds legit. mixing silicone into your ink would probably be better, though.

 

edit 4-5-04: doing a little house cleaning to condense this thread a little.

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thanks a lot rubbish heap......one more question i have which should be in the mops thread but ill just save it to 1 post......i made a glue stick mop using a strip of board wiper.....and before i went out to use it, i just filled the glue stick with water to see if it would drip, and it drips a little bit between the twisty bit and the actual glue bit.......any help on how i could solve this??....i tried tape..and taping tissues to it but it doesnt really work:confused:

 

thanks again...

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QUESTION- i have a very promising mop vessel but have a dilemma with regards to filling; i dont have chrome bucket paint and dont wanna have to bother "obtaining" some, i do however have a loada chrome spray. would it be ok to just spray out all the chrome spraypaint, leave the propellant to vapourize, and then put THAT in a mop???

any help appreciated?:rolleyes:

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this is what i was told to do and i did. spray it in a cup or whatever and add a marble or something to swish it around with. let it sit for a few days and mix the marble around every so often. then put it in ur mop. the problem is that its really thin so i just threw mine away, or u could mix it with something.

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DERMOPRADA*??

 

I HAVE SME SHIT CALLED "DERMOPRADA*" IT IS IN SPANISH SO ITS PROBABLY SOMETHING ELSE, DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS MEANS IN ENGLISH? I PUT A DOT OF IT ON MY DOOR, THEN LET IT DRY ADN TRIED CLEANING IT OFF, ADN NOT EVEN GOOF-OFF TOOK IT OFF, SO I THINK ITS PRETTY STRONG, DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT HIS IS, IT ALSO SAYS THIS "ACIDO ACETICO CLOROFORMO YODO"

 

THANKS PEACE

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Guest imported_b0b

Marsh ink question

 

I'm from England, where it is nearly impossible to get Marsh ink, so I have no one else to ask this to:

 

I got me a big tub of Marsh ink and have been trying it out but I am finding it too thick to flow easily. I've tried diluting it with ordianry ink but not with much success. So far I've put it in a posca and also the MArsh 88 pen (the long one that looks like a big bolt) but neither have really been satisfactory. How can I get it flowing nicely? Does it only work well in a mop? (in which case I'm buggered as I hate mops as they aren't really siutable for what I hit).

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good thining agents:

 

toluene

xylene

generic paint thinner

 

not sure how easy it is to get this stuff in england; if you can't find it, some [expensive] thinner usually used for thinning oil paint will work (like linseed oil)

 

and yes, Marsh in a mop is killer. try that too.

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Hey. I went to AltaVista's Babel Fish Translator and typed in "ACIDO ACETICO CLOROFORMO YODO" in the Spanish-English translator and "Acido" and Acetico" came in the same Spanish words, but "Cloroformo" means Chloroform, and "Yodo" means Iodine. "DERMOPRADA" must be a Spanish brand, because it comes up the same. I tried.

 

Chumbawumba.

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i think marsh ink is hyped up....it doesnt even stain hard....and they dont work well in woodcrafts cus it sometimes will solify and crust up, or it wont flow through the tip wel

 

my advice....put the marsh in a mop and save your woodcrafts for the feibings

 

i just make myself "imitation marsh"...just take some glossy black rusto enamel, mix with some paint thinner....and you got something just as good!

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it all depends on the grade of marsh that you have. I believe the k-grade marsh is the thick stencil ink and works best in a mop. but the t-grade is a marker like ink which goes into the marsh 88 pens, and is ment to flow with markers and shit.

 

i might have the grades mixed up, but one dries up like glossy ink, and the other more like a flat oily black.

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T grade is the best and most permanent marsh ink to use. do not use pigmented! it is too thick for most markers and can take too long to dry. it is best to use tgrade dye type. that is what is inside the marsh 88hf upgrade of the marsh 88. dye type is better because it drys faster and is thinner. they are both the same in being permannent. just make sure you are using dye not pigmented. you probably are using eithre not tgrade or you are using pigmented.

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