Ko SprueOne Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 Kerner Optical is in Chapter 7 http://www.variety.com/article/VR1118043645?refCatId=1009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Shake Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 just picked up a ukranian made model sherman, figure i might as well show yall how i do. the shitally translated english blurb is fuckin hilarious, pics soon. my last build was almost a decade ago, it was a cheiftan mk, dope ass tank but the barrel came all warped, had to make one from scratch for it. anywho my 2 year old nephew found the first tank i ever did and was fascinated with the treads, reminded him of a frontend loader so he liked it, it was some little light panzer thing and he completely wrecked it but he had fun doin so and i enjoyed makin it 2 decades ago so ima do him up the sherman and watch him mash it up with his lil stubby hands Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 is this kit the 1/72 by UM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 models... Images from the 2011 MMSI show Images from the 2011 MMSI show from Chilihead mostly military and some sci-fi /fantasy http://www.network54.com/Forum/676572/thread/1319376379/last-1319376379/Images+from+the+2011+MMSI+show Thanks Mr. Chills! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Re: Trumpeter Aerosan NKL-26 1/35 Finally in 1/35 ! by Trumpeter, (armored) Aerosan NKL-26 just in time for this winter's early snow! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Master Shake Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 ko sprue yea it is, you seent those? and that sled up thier is pretty damn nice, i bet the lil dude hangin of the side with the ppsh isnt included though, your lucky if thiers even a dude for the 30cal. i really dont like when they falsely advertise like that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MOOGLE? Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 wait....gtfohere really this thread is seriously about models... always thought it was just another hella creepy ch0 fap picture thread so i never bothered clicking on it 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 ?MOOGLE - yup that's it, model kits and accessories Master Shake - I saw one of those kits that you're working on online before. The Aerosan kit does include one figure but not two, so good point on that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 new company, new product Meng Model produces their first model in the Velociraptor Series VS-001, and it's a technical in 1/35 injection molded styrene with photo-etch afghanis have toyota hiluxes set up pretty much like that, and 4 door diesel rangers. pretty sweet. perthmilitarymodelling.com They produced another one. kit VS-002 yeah I bought it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watson Posted November 28, 2011 Share Posted November 28, 2011 and progress shots of the first one you're working on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted November 29, 2011 Share Posted November 29, 2011 hah, none yet, I haven't started it currently working on two other projects: 1/35 HMMWV and a 1/25 '55 Chevy PU stepside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Incognito Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 just started building the 1:72 scale Italeri brand m4a1 Sherman. first tank i have ever built, so far it's kinda tough being that small but i think it will come together nice. i wanna give it more of a weathered looking paint job, any tips? the body is primarily olive drab, but i was thinking of maybe trying to dab around some different browns i have to give it that look it has on the box.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Mr. Inc, Spray the base coat 'olive drab green' first. What type of weathering paints do you have or can get? Enamels? Water based Acrylics? I'll walk you step-by-step through this weathering. This is my favorite part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Incognito Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 KO i pm'd you back but if you want you can walk me through on here, im sure other people would find your advice/tips useful too. right now all i have is enamels, but is there any advantage to other kinds of paints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 yeah for sure, here in the thread. Enamels will work if that's all you have right now. This step-by-step will be enamel Everyone else hold off on posting random posts here until we get through the painting weathering stage. Any posts that are questions and comments to this specific subject is welcome. After the building of the model is done, you need to spray a base coat of an Olive Drab color. I used Model Master Olive Drab sprayed from the can. These cans are designed for models so the pressure and color density is just right for military models. If you can find this product locally, then get some. If not then I also assume you already have aerosol colors in the 12 oz variety. If this is what you have then that will work too. Just spray the color on carefully so you don't cover and clog up all the details. A couple light coats will do Get a bottle of Future Floor Acrylic. This will be the barrier between certain coats picture of Future: http://www.f-15e.info/howto/matt_01/pics/01.jpg Also, get a paint brush set from size; 0 to about 1/2" flat. These can be cheepees if you want I base coated a sample piece after work tonight. This will dry over night and the step-by-step will continue nightly or approximately nightly. Each step takes about a day to dry so it doesn't get fcked up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Incognito Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 got the olive drab, bought it when i picked up the kit. need some of that floor acrylic though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Ok, cool. The label on the Model Master paint can reads that it needs to set for at least 48 hours before applying another enamel coat on top. This includes enamel washes and dry brushing. I sprayed this about 24 hours ago, so the Future gloss coat will continue tomorrow about this time Acrylics will not usually effect enamel base coats. It's important to take your time and understand how chemicals act and react with each other so you don't fck up your model that you probably already invested cash and time into Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 48 hours after basecoat color was sprayed, I brushed on the Future This makes the surface gloss/semi gloss. This will dry in approx. 3 hours. Then it's time to apply the kit supplied decals if you want to use these. This also creates a surface for the 'wash' to flow smoothly into and around. I'll continue this Friday or by this weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 Had some time today after work to apply a decal. Solvaset was used. There are other decal setting solution products available. This is a must for scale models. This solvent softens the decal and helps it conform to the model angles and settle into detail where needed. The star is on a flat surface so it's not the greatest example of this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Ok, back on track. A "wash" is thinned color, so thin that it is just tinted thinner. For a military vehicle like this I used a dark brown/black mixture with mineral spirits enamel thinner. notice it's just tinted thinner. This is a no.2 size brush the wash is brushed in and around raised and recessed detail lines. This is called "pin-washing" in some of the open areas, I blotched the wash around randomly to achieve color depth. After about an hour or two (this time frame is for enamel washes), I came back with a piece of paper towel and just dampened the tip with clean thinner. Wiping away from the raised details and open areas leaves the darker pigment in the corners and recessed areas only. Let this dry for at least 24 hours. Next will be the dry brushing to pick out the details 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClueTwo Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 So cool, keep'em coming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Incognito Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 ^^what he said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a mutant rancor Posted December 12, 2011 Share Posted December 12, 2011 Looking real good, keep em coming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 right on, It's good to see an interest. Drybrushing is with a dry brush. I usually do this in three stages of consecutively lighter shades of the base color. Start with the base color, 1 octave lighter. You can use the original color then add a drop of yellow or white. Do not over do this and end up with white from the start. Have patients and the visual reward will pay off. First get a little paint on a wide, stiff brush. This one is a flat No. 10 Wipe off the paint onto a clean paper towel until there is barely any left on the brush With a scrubing motion with the brush, hit all the details and contours and panel lines, etc This first color is barely visible in the pictures and not much change in person either. It's there and it's subtle. The 2nd color should be a little lighter shade than the 1st color. Drybrush this 2nd color into all the surfaces as you do the 1st color. Each step should be as subtle as the previous step. Be patient The 3rd and lightest of the 3 shades can be applied to certain places like the air intake grilles and other details you want to visually 'pop out' The last image shows; scale color modulation and depth. Weathering has not started yet such as chipped paint, rust streaks, and dirt and mud if needed. This was just to get to the scale shadows and forced visual highlights that you see in 1/1 scale world but sometimes don't realize it Mr. Inc', when you get to this step and want to go forward with mud or rust, let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Incognito Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 pretty sick, thanks a lot for the run through. im gonna do what i can with mine going by what you said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BullshitTantrum Posted December 13, 2011 Share Posted December 13, 2011 haven't done a model in years. went to a model train convention and i remembered all the fun i was missing. picked up one of these, put it together pretty quick and i'm gonna weather it soon enough. and i also grabbed one of these pretty cheap and already built but i could weather it. it's not exactly as complex as the cars and helicopters and what not i used to make as a kid but it was a start. thinkin about makin a ho scale model of the yard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 cool cool. HO is a fun scale and provides many directions and products. HO models can actually get very complex and detailed. It depends on how far you want to take it Check out the MODEL TRAINS thread in the Metal Heads forum pretty sick, thanks a lot for the run through. im gonna do what i can with mine going by what you said sure no prob. Hope it was useful information for your project. The end result will vary by following these steps. No two models by two different builders will look exactly alike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 14, 2011 Share Posted December 14, 2011 Awesome tutorial! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LUGR Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 I recently went to the MUSÉE MINIATURE ET CINÉMA in Lyon: "A prestigious museum located in a beautiful house of the old Lyon: la Maison des Avocats. Magical place dedicated to two rare expressions : miniature scenes with the complete collection of Dan OHLMANN's 1/12 miniature atmospheres and the unknown world of the movie shooting with the access to 500 square meters of original movie sets completed with original special effects used during filming." The detail and lighting was amazing... Have a bunch more shots, so will post more eventually. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ko SprueOne Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 WOW, I'm gonna look this up. These are your shots of the show? Nice! I think 1/12 scale would be an adult human would be about 6 inches tall, so those dioramas/sets look super real real Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.