INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

[rubbish heap]

Just so you know those super pourous surfaces with all the tiny cracks and holes that are really easy to stain, are also the ones that end up getting painted over instead of buffed. And when that happens it doesn't matter how hard your shit stains because there's only one thing that can ("supposedly") keep your shit from getting buffed by paint and I'm keeping my mouth shut about that... :dazed:

 

There is two pros I can think of when it comes to white out. One is that it's super opaque, so you could add it to an unopaque ink to help things out (or just use it straight), and two is that it seems to dry thick and stick when it's unthinned.

[rinse]

Originally posted by fuck muni

WHATS UP WITH THAT GARVEY SHIT...ONLY VIOLET STAINS? IT SEEMS LIKE ONLY THE PURPLE COLORS STAIN FOR OTHER INKS TOO....

the reason violets are the longest lasting stain is because there are 3 primary colors: red, yellow, and blue. as far as the molecules that make up these three colors, the blue molecules are the largest, red being the second largest, and yellow the smallest. being that the red and blue molecules are larger, once they are lodged into a pourous surface they are more resist to removal where as the yellow molecules are smaller and can be removed from pourous surfaces with greater ease. thats why if you ghost with iodine the result is more redish brown because the underlining pigmentation of iodine is yellowish-redish and the reds fill better than the yellows. orange minus yellow equals red.

speaking of iodine, i found some for real cheap. never personally used it in my inks before though. anyone here have a good color recipe designed for use with iodine instead of gv? please share with rinse.

[OMEN TWO]

IT SEEMS ALOT OF YOU DUDES ARE SPENDING OR WASTING MORE TIME MESSING WITH INK....WHEN YOU SHOULD JUST GET GOOD INK AND GO OUT AND BOMB AND PRACTICE YOUR HANDSTYLE.

I KNOW WORKING WITH DIFFERENT INKS AND MIXING UP SHIT GIVES YOU SOMETHING TO DO.

 

JUST GET A GOOD MARKER OR MAKE A GOOD MOP AND GET SOME GOOD INK LIKE MARSH OR GARVEY OR WHATEVER AND BOMB.

 

YOUR SHIT IS GOING TO GET BUFFED NO MATTER WHAT YOU USE....IF THEY ARE ON A MISSION TO BUFF YOUR SHIT, YOU CAN BANK ON IT BEING BUFFED....WEATHER THEY PAINT OVER IT WITH ENAMEL OR USE A PRIMER FIRST THEN USE ENAMEL OR THEY USE A SAND BLASTER....IT IS GOING TO GET BUFFED. THERE IS NOT MUCH MORE YOU CAN DO TO INK THAT IS GOOD IN THE FIRST PLACE. IF IT IS PERMANENT AND IT DRIPS AND STAINS, THEN YOU ARE IN BUSINESS....OR JUST USE SPRAY PAINT TO GET UP. THAT WAY YOU WILL GET UP MORE, INSTEAD OF STAYING HOME MAKING A MESS.

 

 

THAT IS HOW I SEE IT.

BUT, IF THAT IS YOUR THING....ENJOY:cool:

[chumbawumba]

Yeah, I am currently using a kiwi mop with Garvey and Feibings. I mix what I can get just for the fun of it because I already know its going to get buffed sooner or later. Its just a fun thing to fool around with.

[rubbish heap]

Omen, that shit may be widespread in graff capitol NYC, but down in my city on the left coast, there's certain surfaces that get painted over and certain ones that get buffed with a cleaning solvent. The super pourous surfaces always get painted over, like concrete. But alot of things, like dumpsters, signs of any kind, unprimed metal, garbage cans, etc., get buffed via cleaning solvent - meaning if you're ink is hardcore and stains, it's going to stay there while the other (weaker) inks disappear.

 

I've pretty much figured out all the markers, caps and paint brands - I know what I like and what I don't like, everything's pros and cons, what makes one marker or cap better than another for certain things, etc. Ink is basically the final mystery for me.

 

On the side of making a mess, I've been creative with where I do my dirty work - for instance, a bathroom in a shitty restaurant, the kind where there's only one toilet and you can lock the door. Honestly I could give a shit less if some grimey ass ink spilled onto their trashy sinks whilst refilling or whatever.

 

Finally, the handstyles. Please believe I practiced my hand to no end before ever having any concern with the inks :crazy: I do agree though, you need to develop a style that is worth looking at before messing with the hard staining inks - no one wants to see that wack toy shit lasting the buff. Keep it clean.

 

Stay up/

[chumbawumba]

I have just recently heard about this potassium permagranate, and I saw its effects after the buff on the van hovie caught that handstyle on. Anyone know where to get this? I know nothing about this and have no idea what its original use is and where to get it. Help?

[rubbish heap]

Originally posted by chumbawumba

I have just recently heard about this potassium permagranate, and I saw its effects after the buff on the van hovie caught that handstyle on. Anyone know where to get this? I know nothing about this and have no idea what its original use is and where to get it. Help?

 

I know the flick you're talking about, and keep in mind some of that ghosting is coming from the base he used, Nero. But yeah, Potassium Perm. is used to sterilize water in ponds and can be found extremely easily on eBay. You could also try a pet store / science store.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...04&category=413 One pound of the powder for 10 plus shipping.

[love meter]

too much powder makes ink watery, so given that garvey already has gentian violet in it (and it must be a decent amount of it if what i'm hearin is true), i wouldn't go lumpin loads of it in... if that's what you're gettin at, of course ;)

[GnomeToys]

Originally posted by rubbish heap

I know the flick you're talking about, and keep in mind some of that ghosting is coming from the base he used, Nero. But yeah, Potassium Perm. is used to sterilize water in ponds and can be found extremely easily on eBay. You could also try a pet store / science store.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...04&category=413 One pound of the powder for 10 plus shipping.

 

Before you play with permangenate, know the following things that probably aren't being thought of as much being as this is a graff board.

 

1) It can be used to make flash powders and explosives, and is somewhat watched because of this. It is sold at Menards and some other stores, and should be purchased in small quantity using cash only. You don't want your name on the BATF's lists.

 

2) On the same note as #1, KMNO4 is defined by the DEA as a list II precursor. The threshold to be flagged as a suspected drug manufacturer is 120lbs, so I doubt anyone here will be hitting it, but also know the the DEA is known to flag people for lesser quantities if other listed chemicals are purchased at the same time, say a credit card purchase for some acetone less than a month before, or a couple boxes of pseudoephedrine. Again, pay cash only. The DEA will have your ass on trial for conspiracy to manufacture so fast you won't know what the hell happened.

 

3) Finally, when mixing your KMNO4, know that it can cause some organics to spontaneously catch fire or explode. Glycerin and glycols will burn, and remember that the brake fluid you just threw in your batch of Krink contains a health amount of various glycols. The reaction can take anywhere from seconds to hours to reach ignition temperature, and I'm sure nobody here wants their new mop self-igniting in their pocket.

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by rubbish heap

Don't sleep on the powders. I am cooking up the perfect recipe and Garvey is the base.

 

Let me know how it came out....I have ALOT of Garvey.

But, to me it is just right....I would not want to mess up even an ounce of it....it sounds like it could work but I would not want to risk wasting it...It is so permanent already that I could not see making it even more permanent. The color is just right, the ink is just right, it flows through any nib and it drips like a mother fucker.

 

I wish I had this much when I was bombing the trains and the city.

Now, I use it to catch a few tags when I can get away with it. I have tags up and down the upper east side of Manhattan and the west side as well...places where they don't get buffed or can't get buffed.

[AevOne718]

hmm i have a few lady finger firecrackers, and since i am not into makiong pyrotechnics, but inks, i can empty some flah poweder out of a few of them and put it in my ink.... ive been thinking that i would put it in my silver paint, due to the aluminum dust in the stuff... but from what i remember, flash powder is a bit darker gray, so it owuld maybe reduce the shine? idonno, ill check it out and get back to you guys...

 

 

oh and by the way... we are bringing the garvey corp to its knees :-D

[rubbish heap]

Originally posted by AevOne718

oh and by the way... we are bringing the garvey corp to its knees :-D

 

hahaha now why do you say that :crazy:

[Dick Quickwood]

omen two, i never thought of doing the felt tip treatment like that to a shoe polish container, i was thinking i would have to glue the replacement tip where the sponge was. i never used mops before, because the foam thing always comes off.

[OMEN TWO]

WELL, I WILL TELL YOU THIS....USING FELT STRIPS FOLDED IN HALF THEN STUCK INTO A CONTAINER IS THE BEST WAY TO MAKE A MARKER....SURE I USE ALL TYPES OF MARKERS BUT FOR FOR THE LAST 25 YEARS MY MARKER OF CHOICE IS A HOMEMADE JAMMIE WITH A FELT STRIP ERASER FOR THE NIB. THEY WRITE ON ANYTHING, THEY DON'T COME OUT BECAUSE THEY ARE WEDGED IN THE OPENING OF YOUR CONTAINER. THEY LAST FOREVER, AND THE ABSORB LIKE A SPONGE. THEY MAKE THE BEST DRIPS AND YOU CAN GET THE ERASERS I POSTED ABOVE FOR A BUCK TWENTY, THAT WILL GIVE YOU 6 STRIPS....MAKING YOU HAVE SIX NIBS OR YOU CAN MAKE SIX MOPS....THEY CHARGE LIKE 2 BUCKS FOR ONE OTR NIB AND THOSE SUCK COMPARED TO A FELT/WOOL ERASER NIB.

 

YOU CAN'T GO WRONG WITH THEM...YOU JUST HAVE TO USE THE RIGHT CONTAINER....EVEN THOUGH I DO USED THEM ON THE SHOE POLISH CONTAINERS....INSTEAD OF THOSE BULLSHIT FOAM RUBBER ONES...JUST MAKE SURE YOU USE GOOD INK AND YOU ARE READY TO BOMB WITH FAT DRIPPY MOPS.

 

 

IN FACT, I USED TO BOMB USING A PINT OF MARSH OR A PINT OF GARVEY, WITH AN ERASER FOLDED IN HALF THEN SHOVED IN THE OPENING OF THE INK CONTAINER. THAT WAS WHEN I WAS BOMBING THE INSIDES AT THE YARDS....I USED TO BE ABLE TO PUT UP SO MANY FAT DRIPPY TAGS....YOU COULD NOT COUNT THEM ALL....I WENT FROM CAR TO CAR WITH MY TAG AT LEAST 25 TIMES IN EACH CAR. IT WAS SO FAT AND DRIPPY THAT IT STOOD OUT MORE THAN ANYONE ELSE'S TAGS.

I WAS ALWAYS A MOP KING....A DRIP MASTER, THAT MOSTLY DID THE INSIDES.

 

RTW ROC TVS.:king:

[macksimum]

Originally posted by GnomeToys

Nobody is forcing you to pay it, and nobody is being exploited. If you're too motherfucking stupid to go to the hardware store and buy/rack the $6.00 worth of supplies it takes to make an assload of Krink then you deserve to pay whatever he's asking. I just made some yesterday, picked up some Higgins Eternal to add to it today, I'll let you all know how that works out.

of course no ones forcing me to buy it. that doesnt change the fact that its fucked up. and for the exact reasons you already mentioned. the shit is so easy to make on your own that 10 dollars for a shithole mop is absolutely exploiting some less knowledgable kid. just cos some kid doesnt know how to make krink cos no one taught them doesnt mean they deserve to get ripped off. or maybe im just too nice...

[En1GmA]

InK~>

 

Wsup i just ordered a bottle of Violet Garvey and 4oz of Fiebing's. Would it be better to mix them with each other~? wit other chemicals~? or just use them both seperately~? thnxx

 

 

SoRrY FoR MaKiNG thE ThReAd ReAcH pAgE 14 :D

[macksimum]

Originally posted by rubbish heap

there's only one thing that can ("supposedly") keep your shit from getting buffed by paint and I'm keeping my mouth shut about that... :dazed:

you just get shit that bleeds. lots of inks do. i know for bushoppers griffin bleeds through buffpaint on panels. as does violet garvey. like most things though, it really depends on the type of paint they use to go over your shit. around here its almost ALWAYS paint (again the types of paint vary). too much graff for people to waste their time with buffing. and i dont give a shit about keeping my mouth shut.

[rubbish heap]

Originally posted by macksimum

you just get shit that bleeds. lots of inks do. i know for bushoppers griffin bleeds through buffpaint on panels. as does violet garvey. like most things though, it really depends on the type of paint they use to go over your shit. around here its almost ALWAYS paint (again the types of paint vary). too much graff for people to waste their time with buffing. and i dont give a shit about keeping my mouth shut.

 

word, of course the inks bleed.

 

by the way, i was talking about petroleum jelly (vaseline).

[chumbawumba]

Re: InK~>

 

Originally posted by En1GmA

Wsup i just ordered a bottle of Violet Garvey and 4oz of Fiebing's. Would it be better to mix them with each other~? wit other chemicals~? or just use them both seperately~? thnxx

 

 

SoRrY FoR MaKiNG thE ThReAd ReAcH pAgE 14 :D

 

I did this, and threw it in a kiwi. Works great, most people would tell you to use straight garvey but do whatever floats your boat.

 

Hardcore on the drips, too :D

[macksimum]

Originally posted by rubbish heap

by the way, i was talking about petroleum jelly (vaseline).

p.jelly was your secretweapon? doesnt it thicken up your ink beyond belief?:confused:

[rubbish heap]

Originally posted by macksimum

p.jelly was your secretweapon? doesnt it thicken up your ink beyond belief?:confused:

 

I didn't mean to add to your ink, I meant to smear over your tag.

Either way, it's not my secret weapon, nor did I think up of it myself.

[OMEN TWO]

Re: Re: InK~>

 

Originally posted by chumbawumba

I did this, and threw it in a kiwi. Works great, most people would tell you to use straight garvey but do whatever floats your boat.

 

Hardcore on the drips, too :D

 

 

I have been doing this since 1979 and you are so lucky to get your hands on Garvey. When I was growing up. We did not have the net. But, we did have a graff store that sold everything a writer could dream of. The only thing they did not sell is Garvey. Garvey is mostly sold to industrial companies and major supermarkets. So, the only ink they had was pints and 4oz containers of Flomaster and Marsh. They had the dye type ink and the opaque and they had every color you could dream of.

 

Getting Garvey back in the 70's, 80's and 90's was a real find and you did not need to mess with it, because it is so good. There is not much more you can do to improve it.

I would hate to hear about anyone mixing something in Garvey thinking they will improve it. You could really fuck up the balance of the original components of the ink. So, for your own good you do not need to put a darn thing in violet Garvey. You will spoil the way it flows, the way it looks and you could make it less permanent.

When I was growing up...we never bothered trying to enhance ink. Because, there was nothing that needed to be done to it. We just put it in our mops/markers and got up.

If you want ink that will stay up year round, use opaque marsh. I have a tag I put on a lamp post with orange marsh opaque 18 years ago and it looks like I put it up last month. It was never buffed and it has seen the cold, the rain, the frost, the snow, the heat...year after year after year and it still standing strong.

 

You know that Garvey is not easy to get unless you have a major credit card. I have a credit card and I have so much of it, that it will last me a lifetime. The reason I got so much is because, I fear one day they might stop producing it. The reason for this is because it is old fashion. They have newer products that people are using and they don't use straight up Garvey like they used too.

So, take care of what little you have and stock up on it as much as you can and don't fuck with it...Because, it is not needed.

 

We only mixed up ink to get fresh colors...like white marsh with purple ink or red or blue or green, etc;

 

Use common sense. I can almost promise you that if you add some leather dye to it, it won't do anything but mess up the shine, the flow and the look of that electric purple color violet garvey gives.

But, if you are that hell bent take just a small amount of garvey and add your leather dye and draw a line with it and take straight garvey and draw a line and try to buff both lines at the same time. Try it on metal, glass, and anything else you can think of and you will realize that they will be both hard to buff. But, the Garvey will look better with nothing else added.

I would not lie to you.

Otherwise, I would not have wasted my time writing this.

 

If you think you are making it better....then it is an illiusion because you want it to work...But, it does nothing for it

 

RTW ROC TVS.

[chumbawumba]

Yeah, makes sense. The color is kind of dulled now that I compare it. One way or another, I guess I'll go back to straight garvey after I finish off the mop. I am going to pick up a roll on bottle of Arid XX to attemp to make a mop. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

I have a tag I put on a lamp post with orange marsh opaque 18 years ago and it looks like I put it up last month. It was never buffed and it has seen the cold, the rain, the frost, the snow, the heat...year after year after year and it still standing strong.

 

That is just amazing. Also, how much garvey do you actually have?

[En1GmA]

o.0

 

thnx omen n chumbawumba ur views and theories are intrigueing ~> ill try my first batch with a mixture of fiebing and gravey den try garvy by itself~> compare that shit~> anyone ever tried mixing some glow powder to ur mixes? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...6&category=3089

[chumbawumba]

Seems like it would only work under a blacklight.

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by chumbawumba

Yeah, makes sense. The color is kind of dulled now that I compare it. One way or another, I guess I'll go back to straight garvey after I finish off the mop. I am going to pick up a roll on bottle of Arid XX to attemp to make a mop. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

 

 

That is just amazing. Also, how much garvey do you actually have?

 

I HAVE 2 CASES OF VIOLET, 16 ONCE BOTTLES (24 BOTTLES).

I HAVE 1 CASE OF BLUE, 16 ONCE BOTTLES.

I HAVE FIVE 16 ONCE BOTTLES OF RED AND FIVE 16 OUNCE BOTTLES OF BLACK.

 

I QUART OF BLACK OPAQUE MARSH AND A PINT OF WHITE OPAQUE MARSH AND ABOUT 5 PINTS OF BLACK MARSH DYE TYPE INK.

 

 

NOT TO MENTION TWO 32 OUNCE BOTTLES KRINK

 

IT WAS NOT CHEAP...BUT IT MAKES ME HAPPY.

 

PLUS, I HAVE ABOUT 40 O.T.R PAINT/FLOW PENS...EVERY COLOR, MINI AND LARGE.

I HAVE 16 MINIWIDES, 5 ULTRAWIDES, 20 EXTRA MINI NIBS AND 5 ULTRAWIDE NIBS.

 

I ALSO HAVE ALOT OF ERASERS AND EMPTY ARRID XX ROLL ON CONTAINERS...AND A BUNCH OF MISCELLANEOUS OTHER STUFF, GLOVES, SYRINGES. TAPE, YOU NAME IT.

[chumbawumba]

Wow. I can't wait until I get a serious career and can piss away my money on graffiti stuff.

[rubbish heap]

by black opaque marsh, are you referring to the pigment type (also called "paint type ink" on urbandesignz) ?

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by rubbish heap

by black opaque marsh, are you referring to the pigment type (also called "paint type ink" on urbandesignz) ?

 

I got the white opaque (paint type) and the black dye type from urban designz.

I ordered the quart of black paint type ink by phone from the marsh shipping supply corp....urban designz does not sell quarts.

I also got that all metal marsh marking pen...I loaded it with garvey. It has a valve type nib. It is perfect for doing stickers and small tags.

 

I got my O.T.R markers from Liquid Crack and the minis from art primo of course. The ultrawides I got from urban designz.

The replacement nibs came from art primo. I called them and they sold me the original nibs that come with the minis. They pulled them out and put in the new type nibs and sold me the old skool ones.

[rubbish heap]

is there any noticeable difference between the t-grade pigment (paint type) and the dye type inks?