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EGGZ

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2 hours ago, LUGR said:

You are not going to want hear this and probably not going to listen, but, don’t worry about color combos. Do as many one color fills you can do until you get your letters tight and your can control to where you want it. Maximize the supplies you have to help you reach your goal of improved can control.

 

This is the truth. I was seriously active for about 10 years before I hung up my spurs and I never really stepped out farther than 3 or 4 colors per piece, fill to forcefield. Everyone wants to roll straight into burners lol 

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38 minutes ago, mr.yuck said:

I don't want to tell you what to do, or how to be, but that double G is fucking psycho. If you like the letters have you thought about rearranging them to flow better.

 

EGOZ

GOEZ

GOZE( GOOZE EGGZ)

 

People have mentioned it, I like the challenge. Plus it's the word not the letters for me.

 

SEEN - MF DOOM etc.. can be done

 

But yeah its much harder. 

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Haha it's all part of experiment I suppose. I'll try to find a style where it don't look life two F's, because its deff something i need to fix. I'll write up maybe a page with some of my G's and see what y'all think anyway..

 

Will mix the G's up in my next one.

 

What you think of two different style G's? I'm not really the type to always use the same style. I like trying new stuff.

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@EGGZ

 

With regards to single color combos - for the most part you can't go wrong with your choices. Even a bright red fill with a maroon red outline is going to look solid. Of course, the obvious direction would be to go with two colors that are as opposite from each other as possible: white & black, red & black, yellow & blue, green & red, et al. If you're planning to do a drop shadow I would use the same color as your outline for the drop shadow. Shines or highlights - it's always a good practice to go with white but there's also the argument to go with a brighter version of your fill-in color. For example, if your fill-in is school bus yellow you could do a light yellow highlight. If you add a forcefield or outer-outline I would go with something that is opposite of your fill. Let's say your fill-in is school bus yellow, which is a warm color, I would go with a light yellow for highlights, a true blue for outline and drop shadow, and a light blue outer-outline... or even an apple green, or brighter, which are both cool colors (as in temperature).

 

With regards to color fade combos - if you ask me whom I think is the king of color fades I would say KEM is the out and out master at color combos for fade fill-ins. The guy kills it every single time. That said... I would take the advice others have already said. Keep your color combos simple for now - two, maybe three colors - and keep the colors similar. And by that I mean, like - orange to yellow to bright yellow - or dark green to bright green to light green - or red to pink - or teal blue to light turquoise. Keep your colors complimentary until you understand your colors. Kem knows colors, understands one color that shouldn't work with another indeed does work. He gets it because he's been doing it for years and has perfected it. 

 

As for your GG - I'd be curious to know/understand how you see them as GG. This conversation is something I've brought up to you in the sketch thread as well. Maybe if I see how you see them as a letter G I can better help you?

Edited by Joker
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Also, tips for buff paint - not sure where you're located (you used meters as a form of measurement so I assume you're not in the states) but the Home Depots and Lowes of the world always have mis-tints by the paint mixing counter. Mis-tints are usually paints that someone has asked for and either the color didn't work out or the mix was off from the intended color. Mis-tints typically sell for pretty cheap but nine times out of ten the color choices aren't as cool as you'd wish them to be. Also, you can buy a gallon of white and then mix in an 8oz of color for $4. Or you could buy a quart of color to mix with a half gallon of white you already have. 

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1 hour ago, Joker said:

@EGGZ

 

With regards to single color combos - for the most part you can't go wrong with your choices. Even a bright red fill with a maroon red outline is going to look solid. Of course, the obvious direction would be to go with two colors that are as opposite from each other as possible: white & black, red & black, yellow & blue, green & red, et al. If you're planning to do a drop shadow I would use the same color as your outline for the drop shadow. Shines or highlights - it's always a good practice to go with white but there's also the argument to go with a brighter version of your fill-in color. For example, if your fill-in is school bus yellow you could do a light yellow highlight. If you add a forcefield or outer-outline I would go with something that is opposite of your fill. Let's say your fill-in is school bus yellow, which is a warm color, I would go with a light yellow for highlights, a true blue for outline and drop shadow, and a light blue outer-outline... or even an apple green, or brighter, which are both cool colors (as in temperature).

 

With regards to color fade combos - if you ask me whom I think is the king of color fades I would say KEM is the out and out master at color combos for fade fill-ins. The guy kills it every single time. That said... I would take the advice others have already said. Keep your color combos simple for now - two, maybe three colors - and keep the colors similar. And by that I mean, like - orange to yellow to bright yellow - or dark green to bright green to light green - or red to pink - or teal blue to light turquoise. Keep your colors complimentary until you understand your colors. Kem knows colors, understands one color that shouldn't work with another indeed does work. He gets it because he's been doing it for years and has perfected it. 

 

As for your GG - I'd be curious to know/understand how you see them as GG. This conversation is something I've brought up to you in the sketch thread as well. Maybe if I see how you see them as a letter G I can better help you?

 

Thanks again as always man. I think it's best I do a page of letters and maybe show what styles I come up with in terms of the letters for EGGZ. I'd also be able to show how I see the way they look to me.

 

I'm going to take everyone's advice on here in terms of colours because it's something I'm struggling with. I'm going to keep it simple and use my resources to perfect my lettering.

 

I'd love to look into how KEM works so cheers for that. I'm originally from Sydney OZ, but reside in North QLD at the moment. Gives you an idea of what's available to me. Can't compare to where I'm from but I make it work.

 

Thanks for the help with colours, advice on highlights, drop shadows, forcefield etc. I laughed when Mr Yuck said everyone wants to go straight to burners! Haha it wasn't my intent, it just happened. And to be honest I noticed the piece was becoming worse the more I added to it.

 

I will upload a piece very soon, with hopeful improvements.

 

Peace

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@EGGZ- you kept it simple, which is great. All your letters are readable, which is great. Color combo works fine... dark fill, light outline, bright outer. Nice job. 

 

The E and Z are both the same size (Z might be slightly larger) while both Gs are visibly smaller. Your EGG all nestle/snuggle up to each other nicely, but your Z is being treated like it's got a cold sore on its lip. Where's the love?! Move that a little to the left so it feels part of the other letters.  

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 listen to the other guys around letters but here's some paint advice from a fellow ex sydneysider

@EGGZ

 If you're in QLD see if you can find some export tins to use as fills.

 

Cheap - wide range of colours and semi soft pressure with a fanjet nozzle.

Supercheap auto often do them for about $3.00  or 2.50

 

image.thumb.png.2584a6f07d0d30ca8432fdd52603c09f.png

 I used to love the mission brown indian red fades

Gloss pink to Plum purple

machinery grey primer is the bomb

 

 avoid the Copper like HIV.

 

 

 

Try to fill with the standard nozzles because they are good for fills then outline with more expensive paint.
You can also practice holdback outlines like guys did 30 years back which will help with can control.

 

 also bunnings does "fiddly bits" cans

 silver is the most solid but  for a primed wall in a backyard you can get away with any colour

and they are like 4.50.

image.png.2d2aac721287642d60051d54bfa622c8.png 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Joker said:

@EGGZ- you kept it simple, which is great. All your letters are readable, which is great. Color combo works fine... dark fill, light outline, bright outer. Nice job. 

 

The E and Z are both the same size (Z might be slightly larger) while both Gs are visibly smaller. Your EGG all nestle/snuggle up to each other nicely, but your Z is being treated like it's got a cold sore on its lip. Where's the love?! Move that a little to the left so it feels part of the other letters.  

Thanks Joker as always. Gonna keep it simple like this without going to crazy. Simple colours. Yeah I felt like the Z was a bit of a Nigel (loner) hanging out there on his own. I think I need to step back from my piece more to get a better perspective.

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25 minutes ago, Schnitzel said:

 listen to the other guys around letters but here's some paint advice from a fellow ex sydneysider

@EGGZ

 If you're in QLD see if you can find some export tins to use as fills.

 

Cheap - wide range of colours and semi soft pressure with a fanjet nozzle.

Supercheap auto often do them for about $3.00  or 2.50

 

image.thumb.png.2584a6f07d0d30ca8432fdd52603c09f.png

 I used to love the mission brown indian red fades

Gloss pink to Plum purple

machinery grey primer is the bomb

 

 avoid the Copper like HIV.

 

 

 

Try to fill with the standard nozzles because they are good for fills then outline with more expensive paint.
You can also practice holdback outlines like guys did 30 years back which will help with can control.

 

 also bunnings does "fiddly bits" cans

 silver is the most solid but  for a primed wall in a backyard you can get away with any colour

and they are like 4.50.

image.png.2d2aac721287642d60051d54bfa622c8.png 

 

 

Yo schnitzel thanks for that man. I actually tried using export cans close to thirty years ago, and couldn't understand how artists could paint. It blew my mind. So I pretty much gave paint away.

 

Now I understand to a degree, it's all about hi to low pressure cans. Skinny, fat caps etc. Can control with decent paint.

 

I'm genuinely trying to get decent with cans.

 

I will check supercheap and use this for fills. Great idea. Noted on the bronze haha.

 

Also not sure if you knew this man but here's a favour on prices atm. Office works have cancelled the contract with ironlak for another brand. I get ironlak any colour for $4 AUS! Normally like $7+

 

Also strikers etc Normally $34 AUS, officeworks are like $13 a pack. Blackbooks, pencils etc all like 80% off.

 

Only till there gone!

 

Peace

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  • 1 month later...

I wrecked it with the green force field. I did have the purple going through the background of letters. I've learnt it's not always a good idea to add a forcefield anyway as it looked better beforehand.

 

I find it hard to add it also.

 

I seem to cut alot of my lines. Is that normal? Or will the need to cut slowly go away once I get good can control. .

20220523_170626.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

@EGGZ

You have the slight angle still since your E is lower than the rest of your letters. Your highlights also look off from not having any on the lower bars. The Z is the weakest letter and could use some decreasing of the thickness of the bottom bar. Delete the purple background.

 

I dig the color combo and overall looking pretty solid.

 

I was critical of this thread when you made it, but now look forward to your post showing your efforts 😆.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, LUGR said:

@EGGZ

You have the slight angle still since your E is lower than the rest of your letters. Your highlights also look off from not having any on the lower bars. The Z is the weakest letter and could use some decreasing of the thickness of the bottom bar. Delete the purple background.

 

I dig the color combo and overall looking pretty solid.

 

I was critical of this thread when you made it, but now look forward to your post showing your efforts 😆.

 

 

Yo thanks for the crits. I was going to put highlights on the lower bars but was really worried about over doing it as usual. I do love the colours too on this.

 

Some of my pieces are pretty wack  but I do see improvement and taking on crits as I go. Thanks for respecting my hustle anyway haha.

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30 minutes ago, EGGZ said:

Yo thanks for the crits. I was going to put highlights on the lower bars but was really worried about over doing it as usual. I do love the colours too on this.

 

Some of my pieces are pretty wack  but I do see improvement and taking on crits as I go. Thanks for respecting my hustle anyway haha.

If you haven’t buffed that yet and you still have paint, go back and add the highlights and paint that blue cut on the bottom bar that makes it look so thick orange. Post the results.

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I dig the colors on the last one on the previous page. You are progressing for sure dude! It might have been mentioned already but as you start to get better try to center your name on the board then work on expanding it to take up that whole thing. use all that space! Or do two pieces next to each other. It’s good to know how to stretch or shrink your word so it looks good in whatever space you have available. If you head out to paint in the wild you’ll run into all kinds of shapes and sizes of stuff to write on. Nothing worse than having one of your letters disappear behind a tree or get taken out by a huge unpaintable water spot from a leaky gutter.  so you want to be able to work around that stuff and still keep your letters proportional. If you find a place where you can go really big you want to be able to kill it and have it look like it belongs there. I did a rooftop roller once on this spot that I knew would run for years. Getting in with an extendo roller and cans of bucket paint was no screw ups serious so I wanted that piece to shine because it’s not the kind of place you get to go back to for an encore once it’s blown. Thought I had everything mapped out to fill the whole roof but as I was wrapping up I realized there was too much blank space on the end so I tried to “fix” it with a weird extension on my last letter. It looked totally out of place and just…wrong. I was proud of the spot but that extension thing bugged me every time I saw it until I finally moved away from that city. 

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19 hours ago, Wyeast said:

I dig the colors on the last one on the previous page. You are progressing for sure dude! It might have been mentioned already but as you start to get better try to center your name on the board then work on expanding it to take up that whole thing. use all that space! Or do two pieces next to each other. It’s good to know how to stretch or shrink your word so it looks good in whatever space you have available. If you head out to paint in the wild you’ll run into all kinds of shapes and sizes of stuff to write on. Nothing worse than having one of your letters disappear behind a tree or get taken out by a huge unpaintable water spot from a leaky gutter.  so you want to be able to work around that stuff and still keep your letters proportional. If you find a place where you can go really big you want to be able to kill it and have it look like it belongs there. I did a rooftop roller once on this spot that I knew would run for years. Getting in with an extendo roller and cans of bucket paint was no screw ups serious so I wanted that piece to shine because it’s not the kind of place you get to go back to for an encore once it’s blown. Thought I had everything mapped out to fill the whole roof but as I was wrapping up I realized there was too much blank space on the end so I tried to “fix” it with a weird extension on my last letter. It looked totally out of place and just…wrong. I was proud of the spot but that extension thing bugged me every time I saw it until I finally moved away from that city. 

 

Yo thanks man. I deff have an issue with symmetry but I see that not all graff uses it. Maybe a base level what your saying which is what I'm slowly understanding.

 

This next attempt I tried to keep it more lined up, but notice it's quite hard making everything line up.

 

Maybe I will start actually measuring an area beforehand as a base, because at the moment I'm straight freestyling. Not even using a sketch.

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