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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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Reposted From Myspace and that was taken from some where off bombing science.

NUMBER ONE : HARD STAINING HOME MADE INK

Get a jar. Put in either Pilot ink or Marsh as your base, and add some Griffin, less than or equal to the amount of Pilot. Now get some Fiebing's leather dye, and add it to the batch, preferably red or purple, as they stain the hardest. Next, get some brake fluid, and give a generous amount - not too little, but definitely not too much as it will affect the flow. Mix that shit around. You can also try boiling them together and then using a thinner, as they'll thicken when heated. Personally, I've never tried heating / boiling any of my inks. If you want, you can try adding Gentian Violet or Methylene Blue (the additive).

 

Next, put it in your marker. Let's pretend you have a Pilot, since they're the easiest to refill and one of the best markers around. Simply unscrew the top, and drop some ink in there until it's slightly overflowing above the cotton. Now, screw the top back on, open the marker and let the ink drop through the nib and land back into the jar. This will get the nib nice and juicey. You can also put this into a mop. This shit is going to stain hard and leave a ghost once its buffed, so the only way to really get rid of it is paint over it (and certain things just don't get painted over, signs for instance).

 

NUMBER TWO : HOME MADE KRINK

 

This ones for homemade Krink. Krink is a recipe made by KR from New York ; you can buy his shit off [link] or get more info at [link] . He charges 15 bucks ; if you want to know the exact proportions to the recipe, buy some and let the ingrediants settle over time and seperate. Anyways, this is some of the easiest shit to make yourself at home. First, get some Rusto Aluminum paint. Its nice and silver. Next get some Paint thinner. Mix it to whatever proportion you want - the more thinner, the more drippy. You can also add a little bit of brake fluid, for staining power, and aluminum dust for shines.

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPSTICK MARKER RECIPE

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

 

- Chapstick container.

- Pilot ink, or whatever you prefer.

- A candle and matches.

- A felt chalk board eraser.

- An eyedropper (comes with Pilot ink).

 

1. Get the chapstick container, empty out the chapstick and clean out the container.

 

2. Melt some wax into it from the candle, so that the bottom is sealed and won't leak any ink.

 

3. Put in your ink of choice with the eyedropper. i used pilot because it's cheap and flows fine.

 

3. Get the felt eraser. Rip off one of the strips. cut it about 1/4. Shove that bit into the container, just make sure you can get the cap back on.

 

4. Finally, get the eyedropper back out and drip some ink onto the nib until it becomes juicy. After that you're ready to go. When the nib gets dry, rejuice it with the eye dropper and ink.

 

________________________________________ __________________________

 

 

 

 

computer toner with alchahol. pretty dirty or soak a stack of carbon paper in 100% alchahol thicken with cigarette ash

 

 

Okay, I am going to settle this carbon ink shit. I've done it. It works. It works very well, and stains very hard.

 

But... you need the right kind of carbon paper. It has to be PURPLE. Not black. PURPLE. The ink comes out this sick purple, but I recommend this:

 

CARBON INK

 

70-90% Isopryl Alcohol w/ torn up pieces of carbon paper in a jar, allowed to sit for a week, then liquid is poured off into w/e.

(A WARNING: THIS INK EVAPORATES REALLY FAST. ALWAYS KEEP IT CLOSED... IV'E LOST WHOLE BATCHES BEFORE IN LESS THAN A MINUTE)

 

 

Anyways, Mix these:

 

Carbon Paper Ink - Stains bluish, the additive

Alcohol based ink (Pilot, Montana ink, etc) - Permanent, the base

Leather Dye (Griffin Black, Kiwi Leather Dye)- stains dark- additive

A bit of Break Fluid (DOT 3 only)- Stains yellowish/brownish, corrosive..

 

I think this would work in most markers, especially in eraser nibbed, or socks.

________________________________________ _________________________

 

ok heres my secret weapon:

 

any 3 high quality inks, (marsh, griff, pilot, i like city wide)

leather dye, (dark red is nice)

Pearl Ex, (this is the flashy part of the mix)

acetone, (or any thinner)

 

ok, take your inks, mix em up in a pot you don't care about and put over low-med heat. stir until it gets just a little thick, stop & remove from heat. now your 3 inks have formed one "super ink", but your not nearly done. now mix in your leather dye and stir. if your mixture is still to thick, thin it up with some acetone, the thinner the drippier, (obviously). now take your Pearl Ex, (this can be found in most to all arts and crafts stores. its used to add sparkle to paint or really anything. the particles are about 10 microns which is plenty small enough to flow through any marker nib. it comes an a variety of colors and is about 5 bucks a jar. ), and dump in a bunch and stir. the more of it you add the more sparkle your tags will have, it will also tint your ink a little depending on the color. if you put in a lot and your stuff gets thick again, use more thinner.it makes buffing quite a pain in the ass and makes your handstyles sparkle like hell. i love it. oh, by the way, if anyone is interested, you can obtain methelyne blue at most pet stores, its used commenly in fish tanks.

 

________________________________________ ____________________________

 

Okay, as I promised, I did a buff test today.

 

Materials Used:

 

+ An old white t-shirt for the rag

+ Goof Off cleaner (made to buff inks and spilled paint)

+ Stock ink out of a Kiwi Mop

+ Griffin

+ Pilot Ink

+ OTR Silver (alcohol based)

+ Uni Paint Silver (oil based)

+ white Meanstreak

+ red Sakura Streak

+ Straight liquid Gentian Violet (which is like, 2% gentian violet powder and the rest water and alcohol)

+ Violet Garvey.

+ A dumpster.

 

1st Buff: The Stock Kiwi Ink

 

This shit was the easiest to buff, left no ghost, and didn't stain at all. Definitely the weakest ink of the batch.

 

2nd Buff: OTR (alcohol based) Silver as compared to Uni Paint (oil based) Silver

 

The OTR Shit was pretty easy to buff; a little stronger than the Stock Kiwi Ink, but nonetheless it took no effort to remove it and it didn't leave any ghost. The Uni Paint Silver was a little stronger and harder to buff; it would probably last longer in the weather. It didn't stain or leave a ghost either, but it was decent.

 

3rd Buff: White Meanstreak as compared to Red Sakura Streak

 

I was kind of surprised, the red Sakura was easier to buff than the white Meanstreak. Actually, I never got the Meanstreak completely off, but the Sakura took a little effort and was harder to buff than the Uni Paint Silver.

 

4th Buff: Pilot Ink

 

This shit left no ghost, didn't stain much at all, but it did smear a little when I buffed it. I'd say it was about as strong as the Uni Paint Silver, maybe a little stronger. Decent shit.

 

5th Buff: Liquid Gentian Violet

 

This shit looks purple and leaves a green shine to it. Now, bear in mind it contains only 2 percent of the actual Gentian Violet; that said, it was easy to buff but smeared everywhere. Hopefully, I can obtain some regular Gentian Violet powder soon.

 

6th Buff: Violet Garvey and Black Griffin

 

These two were the hardest to buff, and the best staining. The Griffin was stronger than any of the previous inks, and left a semi light, semi dark ghost. Definitely a quality ink/dye, but not as good as... Violet Garvey. Now I was surprised at how hard this thing was to buff. It was definitely the strongest ink, and stained the hardest. The ghost it left was a deep, dark purple, and it didn't even look like someone tried to buff it. I give Garvey an A+, easily the best shit I've come across since Fiebing's.

 

I encourage any of you reading to go and do buff tests for yourself.

 

________________________________________ ______________________

 

INK ADDITIVES:

 

Dot 3 brake fluid.. a couple drops eats into paint and leaves a ghost

Fish oil, a couple capsules... leaves a deeper ghost then brake fluid

Methy. blue, nice blue stain. dont get the liquid, powder only..

Leather dyes for stain: griffin, fiebings, etc

Genitian Violet, good purple dye, hard to find, get powder only.. works well in garvey, flowpen, nero and pretty much any purple ink..

 

 

DONTS:

 

Do not use latex paint, and if thats all you have access to, thin with water only.

Do not mix alcohol or water with oil based paint..

Do not put anything with xylene in a plastic marker or mop

Do not put alot of brake fluid in your ink unless you want crap

Do not mix ink with paint.

DO NOT USE CHINA OR INDIA INK. IT IS LIKE DIRTY FREAKING WATER.

 

DOS:

 

Do wear gloves when mixing brake fluid or paint thinner..

Do use paint thinner with oil based paint.

 

STOCK INKS:

 

Garvey stains metal so freaking awesome.. also stains transit panels

Nero stains plastic good, stains transit, not great on metals..

Marsh is a little bit better than pilot, its just begging to be modified.

Pilot is only good for pilot refills cuz its so damn expensive.. good basic ink

Flowpen, mix with other things and can be rather good.

Hard to buff is overrated and over priced. its just not hard to buff.

 

EDIT: MORE RECIPES ADDED

 

get kiwi edge dressing, replace the foam nib with a better one..

pour kiwi into bowl

get some minwax wood stain, put in about 3-4 teaspoons of that.. (stains good)

put 2-3 fish oil vitamin things in it, or if u dont have fish oil, use 3in1 or other multipurpose oil (stain)

throw in 4 teaspoons of laquer thinner (cant paint over it)

thinken it up by stirring in some wood glue...

pour back into mop

 

________________________________________ __________________________

 

red, black, green, blue biro ink

silvo polisher

rust proof paint

printing ink

black it for iron

and brake fluid

ohh yeah an some shoe polish

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

WHEAT PASTING

 

NOTE: You may really want to print this out and save it somewhere for later use.

And remember that wheate paste is some goey messy stuff to paste around the community streets. Have a friend or two to help you!!!

 

Wheat pasting posters around town is a great tactic to get radical messages beyond your mind and get them where they need to go: before the public. Once a flyer has been wheat pasted to a light pole or utility box, it will stay up until someone scrapes it off. Stapling posters is much more temporary, and impossible in most modern downtown area where wood telephone poles have all been removed.

 

The first and most important part of wheat pasting is to make a great flyer: lots of radical stuff, good strong images, LARGE size type to grab people’s attention, humor. If possible, give interested people a way to contact “the movement”.

 

You can either make your own paste or buy wallpaper paste at the hardware store. Some wheat pasters prefer store bought because it is more consistent

 

 

THIS IS HOW YOU MAKE YOUR OWN WHEAT PASTE!!

Matierials needed:

 

Wheat flour

Water

Paint brushes or sponge brushes

Artwork/Fliers and/or posters

Container with lid

 

 

 

Pour dry wheat flour into the container about 1/3 of the way full. Slowly mix it with water, stirring as you do so. You want the wheat paste to be thin enough to paint onto walls but thick enough to stick.

 

To put something up paint the wall with a thick layer of paste and smooth your poster over it. Make sure you glue the edges down. Don't paste over the poster or you won't be able to see it. Wheat paste is not clear. If you're worried that the poster might get damaged in the weather, or if you want to make it harder to take down, spray a clear coating of shellac over it. The wheat paste sticks best to surfaces like cement. If you put the poster up well enough the only way anyone is going to be able to take it down is by buffing it off.

 

If you're worried about being linked to the crime, wear gloves and carry a plastic bag with you. if you see a security guard or a police officer, put all your wheat pasting supplies in the bag. to make it even less suspicious wear some nice light-colored clothing (so that the wheat paste doesn't show up on it) and carry a Gap shopping bag. Play it off.

 

Iif you're going to be doing a lot of pasting, a bucket with a lid, a handle, and a paint roller work well. Otherwise a plastic container with a lid will hold enough.

 

Remember, it's best to wheat paste with a purpose. it's a great way to make a political (or anti-political) statement or put up your artwork for others to enjoy. Good luck and have FUN!

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MOST OF THAT WAS TAKING FROM THE FIRST PAGES OF:

 

The WHEAT PASTING THREAD...

 

The MARKER THREAD...

 

And THIS FUCKING THREAD...

 

I've had a headache for 3 weeks now.

I think I have a brain tumor, and if any of you annoying ass

kids want to send me your addresses, I would love to come to

your house and destroy your computers, and tear down the wall

of your room so you can get some sunlight and go outside.

 

EDIT: Thanks for effort though.

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^^Good looks... but seriously, 3 or 4 Advil stop it for

about 6 -8 hours and then slowly but surely its back again.

 

My insurance kicks in this month... Just in time for me to get

laid off and have to re apply for my current job, so I think I will

take full advantage of the fact that I can afford to see a doctor

for the next 2 - 3 weeks.

 

Nevermind... Hit them streets!

haha...

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A good way to beat the buffman with straight kiwi is hitting something you know is gonna get painted over (not recomended but a wall in your school i guess). See because of the wax in the shoe polish, when they paint over it you will have your tag be shiny when its painted over. you won't see the color but the actual polish shine because it was made to make your shoes shine. It's something like that. Pretty funny when they could have just buffed over it and looks pretty funny as well.

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I said not reccomended my brotha. I only said that cuz that's what the kid who did and put me onto how when they paint straight kiwi, the wax/shine part is still there shineing. Anyways, no hate mang, you know how we do. im stilll trying to get some pics of the new colors but i still don't want to do the camera phone thing and today my mom gave me a new toy (ahahaha such a little kid thing to say)which is this pretty weird 3in1 camera (can do 20 second avi clips ahahahaahahaha and be used as a pc camera) and the quality with taht thing sucks ass, worse then a lot of camera phones. Anyways, heres the camera thing I got, shits pretty hood though (and mad cheap in more then one way) http://www.radioshack.com/sm-digigr8-vga-3-in-1-digital-camera--pi-2147157.html I reccomend it for you broke ass people that need a digi but be warned that most of the time it won't wanna take the picture because of the lighting.

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asdf_va!

 

I feel you on the whole headache business. I had a TIA a week ago, spent 8 hours straight in ER with catscans and what not and looked like a voodoo doll when i was released. Now i get 3-5 intense headaches per day in the right lobe.

 

The only solution is to bomb the pain away i guess .)

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^^Holy eff'ing S!

I had to look up TIA...

 

I think I'm cool on all that, I'm knocking on wood and shit

as I type. Good luck man... I am hoping that my issue is

just because my Weed man was out of town... But he's

back now. Smoked last night a I feel better this morning.

 

Feel better man, and stay up!

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it depends...

 

Some people just straight up use a RIT based water dye.

But that's not totally permanent.

 

I would use super thinned out Oil based BLACK paint.

The extinguisher is fucked either way.

 

Damn...

 

Good question.

I remember back in the days kids would ask how to fill a

fire extinguisher and cats would get really heated and try

and through them off the path of actually doing it.

 

I think that its a good thing to not explain the how it's done,

because most people know already, and those who don't shouldn't

find out on the internet. You know...?

 

I'm gonna ask my boy what he has used in the past...

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Passing that info on 12erz was always frowned upon, in the same

vain as etch is now. I'm totally down with not giving out every little

secret to the trade. And yes, you can just look it up on youtube, but

that's just too easy. It takes the all of the spirit out. Writing is just

like any trade skill. Nobody wants their trade secrets made public

so any old asshole can go and fuck it up for the people that worked

hard to earn the knowledge and actually respect the skill.

 

That's one reason I am always talking down on the internet. It can

be a really great tool to utilize, but some things should be earned

and not just given out to everyone who asks. Just knowing the

question doesn't mean that you deserve the answer. Hope this might

make sense to some of you out there.

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And it opens the doors the Marks that think they

are the shit, end up only writing for the semester,

blow mad spots, and ruin your scene. Writing used

to pretty scary BITD if you didn't like fighting.

 

People would protect their scenes! Keep the ill shit

and toys out. You can't work hard to be on top of something

illegal and then let some kid come and ruin it all. You would

find him and beat his ass. You wouldn't kill anyone, it has

happened before though, but you would make sure that they

got the message to stay the fuck out. It was probably the best

thing for a lot of kids. If you followed the rules laid down by the

cats that were ahead of you, you COULD excel without that beef.

Sometimes it wouldn't matter and you would just catch wreck.

 

Either way, before the internet and all this convenience, writing was

way more respected by the people who did it.

 

Now a days... it's hard to find respect anywhere.

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