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I have come to the conclusion that

both are equally useless. Not trying

to be a jerk, or smart ass...

 

But they both are worthless additives

for your paint mixes. But seriously... Fish Oil and

Dot3 are too heavy and greasy to add to

your mixes. It screws up your drying time.

 

Yeah...

 

 

I am going to have to disagree with you. Even though i am fairly new at making inks i put dot 3 in some of my pen inks, and when used, even when my shit gets buffed it leaves a nice ass ghost tag, which is clearly visible to writers, and takes extra work to get off. So for the 5 bucks its worth(or of u rack its free), dot 3 is definately worth it. Idk about fish oil, but dot 3 is the shit, just dont put in to much. I put in like a couple of drops for like 8 oz of ink.

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^^I was about to say the same thing.

I have never put DOT3 in ink before.

They have opposing bases, but it's

good to know that it works for you.

 

I have to use a fair amount to get

any ghosting at all, and doing this

makes the paint oily and it takes

hours to set and days to dry.

 

I will have to try it out in ink...

You should post some flicks of the

buff with the ghost still showing.

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McCormick company makes extracts with alcohol in them. Their Pure Mint Extract and Pure Peppermint Extract have the highest percentage of alcohol in them. So next time your at publix or where ever near by you that sells them. Just get a bunch, and it has 90% alcohol in the mint and peppermint extracts. Which is perfect for Making pen ink, so get a shitload of McCormick, and just use it instead of normal alcohol to make your pen ink. Plus it will leave a NICE smell that lasts longer then Stride.

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McCormick company makes extracts with alcohol in them. Their Pure Mint Extract and Pure Peppermint Extract have the highest percentage of alcohol in them. So next time your at publix or where ever near by you that sells them. Just get a bunch, and it has 90% alcohol in the mint and peppermint extracts. Which is perfect for Making pen ink, so get a shitload of McCormick, and just use it instead of normal alcohol to make your pen ink. Plus it will leave a NICE smell that lasts longer then Stride.

 

thats a great idea!

 

coming next week: "Cookie-Dough flavoured Tags"

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aight so i just discovered a new problem...i had some bucket rusto and thinner in this mop for bout 2 weeks unused and when i pushed the mop, i got the concentrated hella thick rusto that you get when the paint seperates before its been opened...anyone know whats causing my thinner to just disappear? like, is it normal evaporation, or is there something i can/should do to avoid this shit...this sucks...happened to my yellow and silver mops cause i was chillin for a week or two...

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does anyone know howcome when i put turpentine and oil based rustoleum bunket paint in a unipaint it comes out already faded, and not a drippy mess? the turpentine is only about 1/4 to 1/8 of the mix.

 

Turp isn't the best for moving the paint

through something like a Uni. You could

get by with Turp in a mop, but not a Uni.

Actually... Thinner and paint in a Uni only

work but so good, for me at least. There

is something else in the Uni mix that lets

it flow better. You can try taking the nib out

of the Uni and cutting slices off of both ends

and trying it then. Sometimes the paint will

gunk up in the nib. Cutting the ends gets

your flow back sometimes.

 

Good luck.

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...is there something i can/should do to avoid this shit...this sucks...happened to my yellow and silver mops cause i was chillin for a week or two...

 

^^Sorry to be the one to say it...

But you are just not using that mop

enough. If you find that you are not

going to be using as often as you should*,

you should be shaking it up at least every

2-3 days to keep the thinner/paint mixed.

 

Otherwise... it's becomes that sad deflated

piece of plastic with a dried out rubber nib.

 

*Should is up to interpretation in that

sentence. It's up to you use it as much as

you see fit... but once every week or so...

You gotta switch up to a different mop every

day or so and you can get a great variety

going for you.

 

Good luck.

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I am going to have to disagree with you. Even though i am fairly new at making inks i put dot 3 in some of my pen inks, and when used, even when my shit gets buffed it leaves a nice ass ghost tag, which is clearly visible to writers, and takes extra work to get off. So for the 5 bucks its worth(or of u rack its free), dot 3 is definately worth it. Idk about fish oil, but dot 3 is the shit, just dont put in to much. I put in like a couple of drops for like 8 oz of ink.

 

Its the ink leaving the ghost, beleive me.

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I have come to the conclusion that

both are equally useless. Not trying

to be a jerk, or smart ass...

 

But they both are worthless additives

for your paint mixes. Found something...

 

Let's just say something better.

I have to try it out first to make sure it

does work correctly and then I will post

my findings. But seriously... Fish Oil and

Dot3 are too heavy and greasy to add to

your mixes. It screws up your drying time.

 

Yeah...

 

I think your right, my bros a mechnic and I told him I was gonna put brack fluid in my ink and he was like wtf you gonna do that for? and as for fishoil I've been writing a long time and never expiremented with it.

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^^No it doesn't. There are two types

of etch. Two acids. Both will destroy

or push out the pigment as it etches.

 

It's a myth that you can somehow

mix the two, but science just won't

all it without compromising either the

pigment or the etch.

 

EDIT: You could etch a spot and go

back the next day or an hour later

and hit it with an ink and it would be

ridiculously hard to buff, due to the

ink having a crevasse to seep into.

But it's not worth hitting the same

spot twice in row... repeat offenders

get the book.

 

Good luck.

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I can't believe people are discussing fucking break fluid. Go back a hundred pages (literally, close to that number) and you will see this issue was resolved. Do you know why break fluid was originally added to ink mixes? So that the dry time would be slowed allowing for maximum drips, and giving the ink more time to "seep into the surface" and in effect, stain.

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the brake fluid and fish oil dont have an affect on inks but ppl say to mix armour etch cream with fish oil to thin it.

i kno ppl that did that and it makes the etch really weak. its washes off the glass.

armour etch is weak any way

if u mix the bath with the armour wut will it do?

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