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The turbo car thread


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  • 1 year later...
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I am now a major contributor/dev leader/and moderator on the free speed density project for 1g DSM's...

 

I still own the same red 1g Talon that I did however many years ago and it has served me well.

 

Howdy turbo car people. (car building sounds like a suck idea btw... that's what rednecks do w/ muscle cars.)

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i MY SELF HAVE A BOOSTED B SERIOS INTEGRA LS VTEC DYNO TESTED 290 HORSE POWER ON THE WHEELS. AND 300 ALL MOTOR I AM NOT DONE WITH THIS PROJECT YET. MY 1ST PROJECT IS A GSR FULLY TUNED RUNNING 19 POUNDS OF BOOST

 

PICTURES COMING SOON

 

 

-JDMNANDO

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Do you have any more info on the motor build/transmission? What was done to prep the block? I'm not super familiar with honda stuff but I do know a lot of times they sleeve the block and do other things to strengthen it due to the aluminum material being used to cast it.

 

Do you have pistons, and if so what CR... I assume that you cannot use stock pistons from that motor for very much boost as the ring lands probably will take a shit.

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Not really sure who you are... but I wouldn't say "I'm back" necessarily as I have learned to do very constructive things with my time. I just got an email the other day that this thread was replied to and I thought aww what the hell, let's go see what these nig nogs are up to. I'm only here for technical conversation, not for the homo threads, myspace posts, computer help for retards, etc. Cheers though, who ever you are.

 

;)

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For Honda blocks the issue is less about them being aluminum and more about most of them having open deck blocks. Which can be buttressed to stop the flex that occurs with them at high boost levels. There are also block guards that can be machined in the top of the open deck, but many of those do not allow adequate cooling to the head because of the tiny holes in them which don't allow enough coolant to get up near the head/deck area. Iron block is best for strength albeit heavy. I'll still take a cast iron block any day though.

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So is there anything wrong with drilling the block guard for larger coolant passages? I know they have open deck which is another problem, but open deck might not be such an issue if it were cast iron :) due to the extra strength.

 

There's some VERY fast cars in Dallas where I live. Street racing is very alive and kicking around here. I'm talking 3AM warehouse district roads w/ hundreds of people and cars doing what they cannot get away with on the open highway. Thursday nights the street bikes meet. I can hear them really late at night coming home and hauling ass down the highway. I live next to a really nice stretch of highway that isn't anywhere close to where they meet, and yet on Thursday nights there is a big increase in loud street bike traffic on the highway that I can hear.

 

What are peoples' thoughts about the BW ETT design or the Holset units?

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im thinking about buying a used nissan 240sx, fixing it up, putting on an exhaust system, cold air intake, and new headers... eventually gonna install a turbo. What do you guys think about this? its gonna be my first car also lol, my money sink

What I think is...

Dont waste your time and money on the cold air intake and header. Just go turbo. If you cant use it with a turbo setup, you don't need it. An exhaust, you will need one. Get a 3" diameter one. What engine do you want to run in the first place? There are 3 that drop in and many that don't. A better question is, how much power do you want to make? Figure out what power level you want, and build your turbo system around that and the grade of fuel you will be using, which I would guess is something like 93 octane. Spend your money on engine management and suspension now and buy the right parts the first time, like I told you in the other thread where you made the same post.

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So is there anything wrong with drilling the block guard for larger coolant passages? I know they have open deck which is another problem, but open deck might not be such an issue if it were cast iron :) due to the extra strength.

 

Buttresses installed in the block that go throught the water jackets and brace up against the cylinder sleeves. Basically they are studs that go through tapped holes in the block and carefully TIG welded to seal them. JB Weld could work also, but I wouldnt do it.

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What I think is...

Dont waste your time and money on the cold air intake and header. Just go turbo. If you cant use it with a turbo setup, you don't need it. An exhaust, you will need one. Get a 3" diameter one. What engine do you want to run in the first place? There are 3 that drop in and many that don't. A better question is, how much power do you want to make? Figure out what power level you want, and build your turbo system around that and the grade of fuel you will be using, which I would guess is something like 93 octane. Spend your money on engine management and suspension now and buy the right parts the first time, like I told you in the other thread where you made the same post.

 

point taken, i totally forgot about the other thread lol. By first car i mean its gonna be my VERY first car, not a track car, just a regular car that i want to have a little umph. im in high school, thats why my budget is so low. I am thinking about swapping the engine with another, more powerful engine (for the 240sx). its a common swap, but i cant recall the engine name right now. So i should just install a basic turbo and an exhaust system? Ill do some more research and see what I come up with...

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If its youre first car, and you have a low budget I wouldn't do it. Just get a stock S14 and learn about your car while you take care of it. This is a time in your life where you don't need and shouldn't have something with a major power adder, you need to be saving money to move out and securing a good financial position in the future. Right now, just get one and keep it completely stock and learn learn learn. Then later when you can afford to do it right, you can have some sick shit.

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yeah, i was thinking about that too... maybe once i get out of college ill start sinking my money into it, i guess ill take it easy right now tho, cuz you got a good point. might still buy an exhaust system with some of my money tho lol (but not a really obnoxious hella loud one)

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really? i was looking at 90-96 civics, probably a type-r or si, but i was recommended the nissan from a car forum. my price range is around 3-4k, so im pretty limited right now.

 

no dont go turbo with all stock internals you gunna fuck your engine, yeah if u have 3-4k defiantly get a honda, and you wouldnt find a type r for only 3-4k sorry bro, but my best advice is get a 3rd gen integra really easy to tune and are very light cars, and have a strong b-series motor. and then after you get that baby it and save up for mods, tunes, and aftermarket parts, always go with a intake 1st and a exhaust, if yer not gunna get a full exhaust and just weld a big muffler to the end, then buy a straight pipe and replace with your cat so it atleast gives you a little more HP then slam that bitch by buyin some coilovers!!!

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If you have proper engine management to control the fuel and timing along with bigger injectors and a MAP sensor that can read more than 2 BAR, your weakest link is going to be your headgasket. Lots of turbo motors have stock internals. Its all in the tune. Not saying its a bad idea to build the block, but pump gas is the limiting factor in 90% of people's cars.

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  • 7 months later...

Rods were the limiting factor in my car, tune or no tune. Can't run bigger boost/larger torque spike and expect weak parts to hold together. I'm flirting with just 350wheel now and it's just silly daily commuting at that boost level. I need to get my suspension game up so my car isn't all over the place when boost comes on.

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