Freughtaholic Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 http://www.texasmarker.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freughtaholic Posted October 7, 2007 Share Posted October 7, 2007 i made a chapstick marker and filled it with it and it seems to be super permanant. and it does drip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heirkb Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 hmm...dunno how permanent it can be if its made for school posters...dunno... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freughtaholic Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 i mixed magenta and blue to get a dark purple and wrote on a peice of metal with it...tried to buff it off with the cleaner and it took the magenta away and left a dark blue ghost....shit is mad good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heirkb Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 good shit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipone Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 Ok so i was doing a canvas and decided to do a test on oink (mixed with 2 other things) as well. Heres how it came out. All three (the pinks and the dark purple) are all montana brand. As u can see the buff only worked on the dark part, kinda. Also i painted over it with 5 coats. So i did one coat and waited till it fully dried and then did another and so on. 2 cents Oh yeah anyone got tips on how to fade? Or any crits on the fade i did? I think the pink to dark pink was ok but the purple didnt really works so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpcrew Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 my two cents r to just hold the can like u r doing a flare and r at the top of the flare if u get me to make the division not such a hard line but instead a nice soft flowing colour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipone Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 yeah thats what i was doin also...hmmm well practice makes perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink-taco Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 posted it on bs might as wel post it here ________________________________________ info: ---------- here is some help if you need staining power for your ink or other stuff i will explain Methelyene Blue: Gives you a nice blue stain Don't add too much of it cause it just settles at the bottom of you ink doesn't affect it if you add too much but youdon't want to waste the powder. Gentian Violet: Gives you a nice purple stain just add it to your ink or someone elses. Pottassium Permanganate: Gives you a nice black stain i am pretty sure alot of ink destributers (related to graff) add this to their ink but if you don't think so just add some to their ink. http://www.sciencelab.com/search.php...earch=+Search+ (Methelyene Blue) http://www.sciencelab.com/search.php...earch=+Search+ (Pottassium Permanganate) http://www.sciencelab.com/search.php...earch=+Search+ (Gentian Violet) =============== *all of these are avalible in any hardware store* Paint thinner: just like it says thins you paint only oil-based. Paint thiner avalible at any hardware store and probaly many brands so it doesn't matter. Xylene: Paint Thinner but it will eat away at plastic. It can eat a hole through mops and will leak everywhere make sure you check other inks to see if they contain Xylene so you don't accidently put in a plastic mop. Mineral Spirits: Is another Paint thinner which i prefer Mineral spirits over normal paint thinner. Japan Drier: Will speed up the process of Dry for oil-based paint, enamel and varnish ============= Griffin Shoe Dye: I have never used it but i am pretty sure it comes in black, white and brown will add a bit of staining to you ink. Raven Oil: Heard it is pretty good comes in about 20 assorted. http://www.josephlyddy.com.au/raven_oil.htm Fiebings Leather Dye: From what i have heard it is the Best and most powerful leather dye comes in tons of colors. http://www.shoeshineexpress.com/dyes...FQSlIwodQiI4Mw for cheap leather dyes go to turtlefeathers.com =============== Break fluid Dot 3: If too much is added to ink will make you ink shitty and greasy. Woodstain: adds staining power to you ink or paint various colors. (can get it at hardware store) Pearl Ex: Metallic powder that you can add to ink to give it a shiney or mettalic color. (can get it at micheals usually) ================ basics of ink/paint(stolen from bs back in the day ) you have your dye-type inks, like black pilot supercolor, black dye marsh t-grade, etc. usually very permanent and good all-around, but not super-opaque (except some blacks, like pilot/marsh). just for the record, black pilot is almost as good as black marsh, just slightly less permanent... very slightly. so if you can get pilot locally for cheap than you might not need to go through tonnes of trouble for marsh.. then there is pigment type, often based from paint, but also usually thin enough to flow through markers. marsh is renowned for their pigment inks. they're opaque and permanent. white seems to be a popular pigment marsh. black as well, although i'd prefer the black dye-type as it is probably a bit more permanent. there is chemical stains, like gentian violet (basic violet), methylene blue, fusia, and a whole whack of others it tonnes of colors. violets tend to stain the best for whatever reason (logically i'd think blue would...), blues also stain really good, and reds are pretty good as well. This is apparently because blue is the largest molecular size and results in the best stain. red is the 2nd largest. inks like garvey are made from chemical stains. in fact, the color in violet garvey IS basic violet (gentian violet). the downside to chemical stains is that they are not light fast... aka, they can fade quickly in sunlight. anybody who has used straight up garvey in a sunny spot knows this. there is oxidizers, this would include potassium permagnate. being no chemist, i'm not 100% sure how oxidizers work to help with graff-applications, but apparently they do their job quite well. then there is corrosive items, that eat in and burn your tag into the surface. dot-3 brake fluid is popular (i suppose the higher dot-levels which are more corrosive are too... liek dot-4, etc.). brake fluid for example, eats into the paint of the object you are writing on and damages/stains the paint. also a good reason *not* to spill brake fluid on your enemys cars with a fresh new paint job. some solvents fit into this category too, such as xylene which aids in staining plastics, or the ever-so-dangerous etch which corrodes into glass. hydrochloric acid was apparently popular with the old school NYC writers, but this shit is mega dangerous, not to mention hard to find pure. but if you do find it... keep it to well under 5% of your recipe, and keep an eye on that marker all times to make sure its not getting burnt through. definately use at your own risk. bonders like acetone work to mix things that shouldn't mix. such as some paints and some inks. try to keep this to under 5% of your recipie as well. knowing this you should be able to whip up custom inks/paints for your needs. also, remember to mix small batches first, and be careful with chemicals... very careful. etch and alcohol don't mix. potassium permagnate and brake fluid apparently don't mix too well either. and im sure there is a whole word of danger you can enter with hydrochloric acid. so be safe, be careful, be sure to test, and stay up. PS: little tip. adding shellac adds to the waterproofness, permancey, and shine of things that usually wouldn't last the weather. if you can find UV protectants that might aid as well, especially with non-lightfast chemical stains. recipes: ---------- CANDY INK(stolen from...i forgot haha) Ingredients 4 lemon boiled sweets, make sure there bassets lemon sherbets they have the most acidic content... Food coloring, your colour choice... 600grams of caster sugar.... 400grams of potassium nitrate... White spirit... Steps 1. Put sugar and potassium nitrate into a saucepan. Heat on a gentle heat... 2. Keep stirring till it forms a gooey liquid. 3. Leave this liquid to cool so it goes hard. 4. Re-heat and then mix in the sweets and food coloring. 5. Add white spirit on a very low temp then turn the nob off. 6. fin ghetto junobo(idea by biz written by smooth) ======= step 1: ======== -MIX 2/3thinner 1/3white rusto bucket paint(whte paint only atleast for this step unless you want a metalic color than use crome) note:you dont have to use these perportions just make shure the paint is super thin almost like water ========= step 2: ========= -GET THE LARGEST TUBE OF PINK OIL BASED ARTIST PAINT YOU CAN FIND(YOU CAN USE ANY COLOR I JUST LIKE PINK) mix in all the artist paint(its best to after you squeeze out all that you can you cut the tube in half and scrape the rest out with a old spoon) and mix it with your super thin paint makes shure you mix every thing up really good also make shure there are no paint clums cause the artist paint is super thick ========== step3: ========== -PUT YOUR JUNOBO IN A MOP AND BE HAPPY YOU DIDNT HAVE TO PAY 15 DOLLARS FOR A BOTTLE OF PAINT(NO DISS I <3 JUNOBO) Fumers Patanted Ink!! ingrediants; 3 pen inks (preferably black and red) 300ml of methalated spirits two splashes of any perminent ink (corio,pilot,nero,grog) carbon paper dust directions; mix all together in a bottle or jar and let it all sit for a day or two and you have some pretty mad ink its most definatly drippin shit and depending on how much carbon dust you da its fairly opaque. Strange uk mop/paint recipe(i foundthis a hella long ago on uk forum but forgot what the forums name was ) U NEED: 1 Kiwi 1 Part Lighter Fluid 1 Part White Rusto 1-2 Jars of Nail Polish 1 Mixing Item (marble, ball bearing, etc) First open the kiwi and pour out the polish, then clean it all out...the nib too! Then drop in the mixer, then pour in the paint. Add the 3 jars of nail polish. Then, add the lighter fluid. Then close it. COMPLETELY. Put the cap back on the bottle and shake like theres no tomorrow. If u want less runs add more paint and less lighter fluid, if u want more runs add more fluid. As an added bonus it eats through paint, but it kind of picks up the colour it eats through. simple ink(by my lil rogue-e-pooh): Mix 3/4 woodstain 3 drops dot 3 or fish oil capsules 1/4 Good Shoepolish (not Kiwi or some shit) the old pen ink(by skater haha rember this shit homie). Good for insides, and is absolutely sexy on painted surfaces. Get a ten pack of ballpoint pens, a jar, and about 2 oz rubbing alcohol. open up the pens, get the ink wells and cut them into about 1-2 cm pieces and put in a jar. pour alcohol over it, close the jar, and then shake for a minute. easy! add a half tbsp gum arabic to it if you've got it, you can add acrylic paint to help it last outside. Probably the most thrifty ass way to get/mix paint for mops(also by skater6 ): so i finaly got my hands on one of those generic squeeze mop type bottles at hobby lobby, but i had nothing to rock in it cuz i was tired of ghetto krink. So i decided to try to mix a metallic color. i got my ghetto krink(rustoleum aluminum bucket paint and paint thinner), and a can of green paint from the dollar general. i got one of my mixing caps(those might be the heaviest caps in the history of the planet) and a heavy piece of metal, then let the can spray upside down on its own by putting the metal on it while it was upside down until it stopped spraying. then i got a nail and hammer, a large screw, and a screwdriver. i popped two holes in opposite sides in the rim of the can. one to pour out of it, and another to let the air flow. i enlarged the pouring hole with the screw, and poured it into a coke bottle with a funnel.(there is not a lot of paint in a can, most of the weight is compressed air). i the cap back on, and shook it and opened it to let gas release for about an hour. (its not so bad when your watching TV) so when no more gas released,i cut a soda bottle in half to use as a mixing bowl. got my ghetto krink and my green formerly spraypaint. dollar store paint doesnt need thinning!, but you might no be so lucky. if its still thick, add some mineral spirts until its the consistencey of milk. and mixed the two. i cant remember the ratios , but i ended up getting a metallic military green. im happy with it though. If your going to be mixing your own paints for mops and markers, i suggest you store them in glue bottles(depending on how big your batch is. my batch wasnt that much after i filled the mop. maybe i could fill it twice more. because when you want to refill it, you just open the tip and squeeze kiwi mop by some mofo on pnp get kiwi edge dressing, replace the foam nib with a better one.. Pour kiwi into bowl get some minwax wood stain, put in about 3-4 teaspoons of that.. (stains good) put 2-3 fish oil vitamin things in it, or if u don’t have fish oil, use 3in1 or other multipurpose oil (stain) throw in 4 teaspoons of lacquer thinner (cant paint over it) thicken it up by stirring in some wood glue... pour back into mop and just to fuck with yall: real krink 2/7 paint thinner 1/7 ***** 1/7 ******* **** (not the concentrated stuff) 2/7crome(or color of your choose) oil based paint preferably rusto 3/7 ******** **** 2 drops of *****(its not brake fluid you cock boilers : P) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaser Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 with the ballpoint pen ink recipe i found that the Isopropyl alcohol had difficulties getting all the ink out of the well. My mix was still a bit watery so to speak, wasn't as thick and sticky like it should be. Leaving it to settle for a night or two should draw the ink out of them wells. I later added some Oil free stamp pad ink, not sure what the base is on it, now that i think about it I'm guessing its water based, probably turning my mix into utter crap. Micador brand stamp pad ink, anybody know the base on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrownbomber Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 I'm gonna go with water based for your stamp pad ink. At least I think thats what my friend google was telling me..... Pretty much all ink you find easily is water based pigment ink unless it says "quick drying" or "Permanant" and even then, i don't think its a sure thing..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stat Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 Ingredients 4 lemon boiled sweets, make sure there bassets lemon sherbets they have the most acidic content... Food coloring, your colour choice... 600grams of caster sugar.... 400grams of potassium nitrate... White spirit... making ink or a cake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LIV3ONE-CityOfWind Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 stamp pad ink is not permanent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrownbomber Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 Ingredients 4 lemon boiled sweets, make sure there bassets lemon sherbets they have the most acidic content... Food coloring, your colour choice... 600grams of caster sugar.... 400grams of potassium nitrate... White spirit... making ink or a cake? candy ink....its just like a cake you put in a marker and write on things with. Except its nothing like a cake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink-taco Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 hahaha.....be careful as fuck if that recipe though if you have the heat up to high on that last step its gonna make a huge ass smoke bomb and your probally gonna kill yourself breathing all that shit in...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BELTOLEUM Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 posted it on bs might as wel post it here ________________________________________ info: ---------- here is some help if you need staining power for your ink or other stuff i will explain Methelyene Blue: Gives you a nice blue stain Don't add too much of it cause it just settles at the bottom of you ink doesn't affect it if you add too much but youdon't want to waste the powder. Gentian Violet: Gives you a nice purple stain just add it to your ink or someone elses. Pottassium Permanganate: Gives you a nice black stain i am pretty sure alot of ink destributers (related to graff) add this to their ink but if you don't think so just add some to their ink. http://www.sciencelab.com/search.php...earch=+Search+ (Methelyene Blue) http://www.sciencelab.com/search.php...earch=+Search+ (Pottassium Permanganate) http://www.sciencelab.com/search.php...earch=+Search+ (Gentian Violet) =============== *all of these are avalible in any hardware store* Paint thinner: just like it says thins you paint only oil-based. Paint thiner avalible at any hardware store and probaly many brands so it doesn't matter. Xylene: Paint Thinner but it will eat away at plastic. It can eat a hole through mops and will leak everywhere make sure you check other inks to see if they contain Xylene so you don't accidently put in a plastic mop. Mineral Spirits: Is another Paint thinner which i prefer Mineral spirits over normal paint thinner. Japan Drier: Will speed up the process of Dry for oil-based paint, enamel and varnish ============= Griffin Shoe Dye: I have never used it but i am pretty sure it comes in black, white and brown will add a bit of staining to you ink. Raven Oil: Heard it is pretty good comes in about 20 assorted. http://www.josephlyddy.com.au/raven_oil.htm Fiebings Leather Dye: From what i have heard it is the Best and most powerful leather dye comes in tons of colors. http://www.shoeshineexpress.com/dyes...FQSlIwodQiI4Mw for cheap leather dyes go to turtlefeathers.com =============== Break fluid Dot 3: If too much is added to ink will make you ink shitty and greasy. Woodstain: adds staining power to you ink or paint various colors. (can get it at hardware store) Pearl Ex: Metallic powder that you can add to ink to give it a shiney or mettalic color. (can get it at micheals usually) ================ basics of ink/paint(stolen from bs back in the day ) you have your dye-type inks, like black pilot supercolor, black dye marsh t-grade, etc. usually very permanent and good all-around, but not super-opaque (except some blacks, like pilot/marsh). just for the record, black pilot is almost as good as black marsh, just slightly less permanent... very slightly. so if you can get pilot locally for cheap than you might not need to go through tonnes of trouble for marsh.. then there is pigment type, often based from paint, but also usually thin enough to flow through markers. marsh is renowned for their pigment inks. they're opaque and permanent. white seems to be a popular pigment marsh. black as well, although i'd prefer the black dye-type as it is probably a bit more permanent. there is chemical stains, like gentian violet (basic violet), methylene blue, fusia, and a whole whack of others it tonnes of colors. violets tend to stain the best for whatever reason (logically i'd think blue would...), blues also stain really good, and reds are pretty good as well. This is apparently because blue is the largest molecular size and results in the best stain. red is the 2nd largest. inks like garvey are made from chemical stains. in fact, the color in violet garvey IS basic violet (gentian violet). the downside to chemical stains is that they are not light fast... aka, they can fade quickly in sunlight. anybody who has used straight up garvey in a sunny spot knows this. there is oxidizers, this would include potassium permagnate. being no chemist, i'm not 100% sure how oxidizers work to help with graff-applications, but apparently they do their job quite well. then there is corrosive items, that eat in and burn your tag into the surface. dot-3 brake fluid is popular (i suppose the higher dot-levels which are more corrosive are too... liek dot-4, etc.). brake fluid for example, eats into the paint of the object you are writing on and damages/stains the paint. also a good reason *not* to spill brake fluid on your enemys cars with a fresh new paint job. some solvents fit into this category too, such as xylene which aids in staining plastics, or the ever-so-dangerous etch which corrodes into glass. hydrochloric acid was apparently popular with the old school NYC writers, but this shit is mega dangerous, not to mention hard to find pure. but if you do find it... keep it to well under 5% of your recipe, and keep an eye on that marker all times to make sure its not getting burnt through. definately use at your own risk. bonders like acetone work to mix things that shouldn't mix. such as some paints and some inks. try to keep this to under 5% of your recipie as well. knowing this you should be able to whip up custom inks/paints for your needs. also, remember to mix small batches first, and be careful with chemicals... very careful. etch and alcohol don't mix. potassium permagnate and brake fluid apparently don't mix too well either. and im sure there is a whole word of danger you can enter with hydrochloric acid. so be safe, be careful, be sure to test, and stay up. PS: little tip. adding shellac adds to the waterproofness, permancey, and shine of things that usually wouldn't last the weather. if you can find UV protectants that might aid as well, especially with non-lightfast chemical stains. recipes: ---------- CANDY INK(stolen from...i forgot haha) Ingredients 4 lemon boiled sweets, make sure there bassets lemon sherbets they have the most acidic content... Food coloring, your colour choice... 600grams of caster sugar.... 400grams of potassium nitrate... White spirit... Steps 1. Put sugar and potassium nitrate into a saucepan. Heat on a gentle heat... 2. Keep stirring till it forms a gooey liquid. 3. Leave this liquid to cool so it goes hard. 4. Re-heat and then mix in the sweets and food coloring. 5. Add white spirit on a very low temp then turn the nob off. 6. fin ghetto junobo(idea by biz written by smooth) ======= step 1: ======== -MIX 2/3thinner 1/3white rusto bucket paint(whte paint only atleast for this step unless you want a metalic color than use crome) note:you dont have to use these perportions just make shure the paint is super thin almost like water ========= step 2: ========= -GET THE LARGEST TUBE OF PINK OIL BASED ARTIST PAINT YOU CAN FIND(YOU CAN USE ANY COLOR I JUST LIKE PINK) mix in all the artist paint(its best to after you squeeze out all that you can you cut the tube in half and scrape the rest out with a old spoon) and mix it with your super thin paint makes shure you mix every thing up really good also make shure there are no paint clums cause the artist paint is super thick ========== step3: ========== -PUT YOUR JUNOBO IN A MOP AND BE HAPPY YOU DIDNT HAVE TO PAY 15 DOLLARS FOR A BOTTLE OF PAINT(NO DISS I <3 JUNOBO) Fumers Patanted Ink!! ingrediants; 3 pen inks (preferably black and red) 300ml of methalated spirits two splashes of any perminent ink (corio,pilot,nero,grog) carbon paper dust directions; mix all together in a bottle or jar and let it all sit for a day or two and you have some pretty mad ink its most definatly drippin shit and depending on how much carbon dust you da its fairly opaque. Strange uk mop/paint recipe(i foundthis a hella long ago on uk forum but forgot what the forums name was ) U NEED: 1 Kiwi 1 Part Lighter Fluid 1 Part White Rusto 1-2 Jars of Nail Polish 1 Mixing Item (marble, ball bearing, etc) First open the kiwi and pour out the polish, then clean it all out...the nib too! Then drop in the mixer, then pour in the paint. Add the 3 jars of nail polish. Then, add the lighter fluid. Then close it. COMPLETELY. Put the cap back on the bottle and shake like theres no tomorrow. If u want less runs add more paint and less lighter fluid, if u want more runs add more fluid. As an added bonus it eats through paint, but it kind of picks up the colour it eats through. simple ink(by my lil rogue-e-pooh): Mix 3/4 woodstain 3 drops dot 3 or fish oil capsules 1/4 Good Shoepolish (not Kiwi or some shit) the old pen ink(by skater haha rember this shit homie). Good for insides, and is absolutely sexy on painted surfaces. Get a ten pack of ballpoint pens, a jar, and about 2 oz rubbing alcohol. open up the pens, get the ink wells and cut them into about 1-2 cm pieces and put in a jar. pour alcohol over it, close the jar, and then shake for a minute. easy! add a half tbsp gum arabic to it if you've got it, you can add acrylic paint to help it last outside. Probably the most thrifty ass way to get/mix paint for mops(also by skater6 ): so i finaly got my hands on one of those generic squeeze mop type bottles at hobby lobby, but i had nothing to rock in it cuz i was tired of ghetto krink. So i decided to try to mix a metallic color. i got my ghetto krink(rustoleum aluminum bucket paint and paint thinner), and a can of green paint from the dollar general. i got one of my mixing caps(those might be the heaviest caps in the history of the planet) and a heavy piece of metal, then let the can spray upside down on its own by putting the metal on it while it was upside down until it stopped spraying. then i got a nail and hammer, a large screw, and a screwdriver. i popped two holes in opposite sides in the rim of the can. one to pour out of it, and another to let the air flow. i enlarged the pouring hole with the screw, and poured it into a coke bottle with a funnel.(there is not a lot of paint in a can, most of the weight is compressed air). i the cap back on, and shook it and opened it to let gas release for about an hour. (its not so bad when your watching TV) so when no more gas released,i cut a soda bottle in half to use as a mixing bowl. got my ghetto krink and my green formerly spraypaint. dollar store paint doesnt need thinning!, but you might no be so lucky. if its still thick, add some mineral spirts until its the consistencey of milk. and mixed the two. i cant remember the ratios , but i ended up getting a metallic military green. im happy with it though. If your going to be mixing your own paints for mops and markers, i suggest you store them in glue bottles(depending on how big your batch is. my batch wasnt that much after i filled the mop. maybe i could fill it twice more. because when you want to refill it, you just open the tip and squeeze kiwi mop by some mofo on pnp get kiwi edge dressing, replace the foam nib with a better one.. Pour kiwi into bowl get some minwax wood stain, put in about 3-4 teaspoons of that.. (stains good) put 2-3 fish oil vitamin things in it, or if u don’t have fish oil, use 3in1 or other multipurpose oil (stain) throw in 4 teaspoons of lacquer thinner (cant paint over it) thicken it up by stirring in some wood glue... pour back into mop and just to fuck with yall: real krink 2/7 paint thinner 1/7 ***** 1/7 ******* **** (not the concentrated stuff) 2/7crome(or color of your choose) oil based paint preferably rusto 3/7 ******** **** 2 drops of *****(its not brake fluid you cock boilers : P) taco you gotta gimme propz for half of this shit that i posted on your site awhile ago....but for the rest of it for you. lol..... the ******* i have the uncensored version of krink's ink thanks again TACO :lol: :lol: :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink-taco Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 i aint giving you props for shit nukka....hahahahaha....get on aim man...do it....*peer presure*..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddio1 Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 does anyone know of ways to mix off set printing ink?? i have some i want to experiment with.. i have dryer and thinner, but hoping someone can tell me where to start.. if you know anything PM me please.. dont respond here i wont get it.. PM... peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BELTOLEUM Posted October 8, 2007 Share Posted October 8, 2007 I believe ink and thinner don't mix. read that humongous post above you for some tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asdf_va! Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 All those name brand copy mixes are totally wrong. Some are not even close. The "gimmie now" generation strikes again! Junobo mix... WRONG! Simple Ink... Mixing opposing bases. That fake ass Krink Teaser... Come on! You have the ingredience mixing 9/7 parts with 2 drops extra? Only toy's think they can get fame over the internerd by posting fake, inaccurate mixes, and putting their name on it. Candy Ink... It was joke made up on the west to fake out toys. Now kids claim that their boy has been using it for years... well your boy is wack too. The "gimmie now" generation. What a waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeBaumer44 Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Any of u guys kno what wrong with this GK, Its rusto bucket paint and thinner but it always separates. What can i do to fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipone Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 use ur mop more often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
androidx Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 You may be using the wrong thinner. Latex thinner mixed with oil base paint will not work. Or the other way around. But usually it comes out lumpy and gross, so I'm not sure if that's what's wrong here. Usually for ghetto Krink, if you're using the rusto bucket aluminum, you don't need any thinner. If none of that was useful, then like slip said, use the mop more often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somoza Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 shake it you fucking mongaloid. theyre gonna fucking seperate, most inks, paints do if you leave them on your shelf to settle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeBaumer44 Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 haha i know to shake it just wondering if the ink wasnt as good cus of the separation guess not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 heres my ink+ghetto krink mix the ink is a pen ink-mr.black-lincon mix and the krink is rusto thinner dot3 and nitro solvent it dus that outline thing you guys where talking about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slipone Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 yeah its supposed to come out like that. but do it on something painted not cardboard then flick it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink-taco Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 All those name brand copy mixes are totally wrong. Some are not even close. The "gimmie now" generation strikes again! Junobo mix... WRONG! Simple Ink... Mixing opposing bases. That fake ass Krink Teaser... Come on! You have the ingredience mixing 9/7 parts with 2 drops extra? Only toy's think they can get fame over the internerd by posting fake, inaccurate mixes, and putting their name on it. Candy Ink... It was joke made up on the west to fake out toys. Now kids claim that their boy has been using it for years... well your boy is wack too. The "gimmie now" generation. What a waste. im just gonna say like this.... junobo mix.....its not ment to be the same mix as junobo its ment to be a cheap not off that can be made easily like ghetto krink if i wanted to tell you guys the secret to junobo i would.....in fact you know what i am its lichin the secret to junob is lichin it allows you to mix water and oil its used in junobo to mix latex based paint(for the bright ass color)and oil based paint(for its permanence)then there are other ingredients for that oreo smell and shit but i dont want to get into that right now simple ink.....the bases are the same you dumb fuck both shoe polish and wood stain are made up oils and waxes.... the krink teaser.....the orignal perportions are...... 2/7 paint thinner 1/7 ***** 1/7 ******* **** 2/7crome paint 3/7 ******** **** 1/2 of 1/7 of ******** .....2 drops is just any easier way of putting 1/2 of 1/7 as for candy ink i have no real prof thats its real or not i've seen many sites that people claim to be it i've seen 1000 "ghetto" recipes heard tons of people say they use it and there boys use it ect. but there is no real proof so this one you can hold against me.....the recipe that i posted on here was an old throw back recipe that came from the first ink thread on....drum roll please....12OZPROPHET.COM.....i just put it in there....well for the hell of it... your the waste my friend trying to start shit with me for no reason at all im mean whats the point im just trying to help some of these lil fucks on here out and your alll...rabble rabble rabble...wrong...rabble rabble.....diff base.....rabble....krink recip thats bull....rabble rabble. so fuck you man and untill the day we meet up in hell all i have to say is CONGRATS ON BEING THE FIRST AND LAST PERSON ON SMOOTH-NUTS BLOCKED LIST Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stat Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 Any of u guys kno what wrong with this GK, Its rusto bucket paint and thinner but it always separates. What can i do to fix it? even stock inks seperate. ive seen grog do it. the paint in mr inks settles at the bottom. duh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JigaboosPigaboos Posted October 9, 2007 Share Posted October 9, 2007 PHC doesnt lincoln violet smell good? I love the smell of that shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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