Guest sneak Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Originally posted by dlokddlokd wuts the mix ratio with this shit FUCKING FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF YOU TOTAL PEICE OF WORTHLESS CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! EXPERI-FUCKING-MENT WITH YOUR INKS! ARGGGGH, THE STUPIDITY OF AMERICANS REALLY DOES MY NUT AND MAKES ME WANT TO TYPE IN CAPITALS! look throught the thread you little prick, how often have people been told to have a brief look thru the thread before asking? too many. stop being a fucking neek and go try it out yourself. how hard is it to mix a bit of pilot ink with some garvey? fuck, its pretty clear that garvey is a potent stainer so go from there with how much pilot needs to be added. if any at fucking all. i do belive omen went on for a fair bit about NOT FUCKING WITH GARVEY. N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOTTS1 Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Originally posted by ASH.UGT ok so im thinking of making a silver/chome ink , i got my marker already, i was thinking if i sprayed sum paint into a container that wud work but i cant think of wot to add to it to make it stain. ne help chaps? get some krink.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Producto Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Originally posted by NOTTS1 get some krink.............. krink is a rip off (from what ive seen)...get that montana silver pintura;) EDIT*, the montana stuff stains...but not like ink does...it sort of smudges when buffed, leaving the shape of the tag, so you can usually read it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloud9 Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 well this is one fucking long thread, so ill just say mine. it might have been said like. LETHER DIE. INFERNO INK. MONSTER INK. STAINER POWDER. BREAK FLUID. thats it, and it works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlokddlokd Posted July 10, 2004 Share Posted July 10, 2004 Originally posted by chumbawumba BUFF TEST The surface is metal, I used a Curve cologne tin. I gave the inks a little more then an hour to dry. The buffer is called Oops or some shit like that. http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestRedPilotInkVioletGarveyBefore.jpg'> http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestRedPilotInkVioletGarveyAfter.jpg'> http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestVioletGarveyBefore.jpg'> http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestVioletGarveyAfter.jpg'> From the conclusion of the tests, I would have to reccomend OTR Hard to Buff, Violet Garvey, and a mixture of Red Pilot Ink and Violet Garvey. The inks will have different effects on different surfaces for example I have had Griffin stain like a bitch on a painted surface, and I have had OTR Hard to Buff come off with no stain at all on a painted surface. If your hitting metal, definitley invest in some of those inks if you want it to last. I still can't get over how hard the Red Pilot Ink and Violet Garvey stained.. I am definitley going to try adding that to other inks as well. I hope this helped. ^^^ that is why i asked on that garvey / red pilot mix...sneak no one asked you so shut the fuck up and i can get garvey for hella cheap...cheaper than what their own website sells it for...ANYONE WANT ANY? hit me up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sneak Posted July 10, 2004 Share Posted July 10, 2004 shut your fucking mouth you cocky little prick. you asked what the ratio was, i told you to either mix it yourslef and find out, or flick through the thread. you went to the trouble of finding the quote of chumbas....why didnt you bother spending that time experimenting? overall, the lesson learnt is that to you im Mr Sneak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rinse Posted July 10, 2004 Share Posted July 10, 2004 "...Mrs. Jackson if your nasty..." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobotheHobo Posted July 10, 2004 Share Posted July 10, 2004 learn from my dumbass mistakes ok well yesterday i tried making some homemade krink but instead of using break fluid i was gonna use muriatic acid, which contains hydrochloric acid, this shit is narsty very bad for u. so i poor in a decent amount of the muriatic acid into a container and a whole jar of aluminum rusto. I put the cap on and shook it up in order to mix it. i then walked across my basement to go grab the thinner and i start to see the container getting really big so im like o no i know whats gonna hapen now so i run over to the container to try to unscrew the cap and let out the pressure but i start to hear the plastic sizzle. so i toss the container and the whole thing blows up three times. dont ask me how all i know is i heard 3 "booms" and next thing i know is the back of my basement is covered in silver rusto along with the whole front of my body. my skin is tingling from the acid being on it and it burnt my nose to breath because of the fumes from the acid. so i had to explain to my little brother y i was mixing acid and paint inorder to get his help to help me clean it before my dad came home. and i still didnt i jsut put mad boxes infront of the wall and sprayed a bunch of air freshener. well the moral of this story in not to mix aluminum rusto and muriatic acid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneoneone Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 HI i'm an australian writer considering ordering an OTR off the net cause we can't get them over here. i dont know which ones are worth getting so can somoene who knows heaps about them add my msn adress lmnop61@hotmail.com and give me the low down on them. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rinse Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 otr's are (as far as the actual marker goes) all the same, with the exception of the tagstar [which has a wider nib and unskrews in the back], and the mini's [which have a regular sized nib but a smaller ink chamber]. that being said, if your not getting the tagstar, the marker you get really depends on what ink you want. -do not get an otr paint marker, they suck. they dont write on some some surfaces and the ink flow is really bad. -otr hard to buff ink is not as permanent as you would want it to be but the ink and the marker work well together. -iv'e never used the .050 super permanent but i believe it has a chizel tip. -the flow pen isnt that permanent either but the ink is thin and drips well when you wnat it to, doesnt drip when you dont want it to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeezerPHM Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 japan drier so has anyone fucked with this shit you get at an art store its called japan drier? its suppose to make your oil paint dry faster and thin it as well but you cant use alot (its says use sparingly). so i was wondering if anyone ever thought of using this for when the make krink or any other color thinned out paint? since i picked up a bottle i will post up my results and would like feed back about this substance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 Originally posted by BLaCkNiGGa not too much garvey man, cause you dont want to waste it, cause its expensive and hard to get more and it stains hard no matter if you put a whole bunch. Id say a 1:3 ratio. 1 being garvey and 3 being pilot ps. dont forget fiebings, dot 3 and mayb e some griffin. That combo will make you :king: It's no more expensive than Marsh or any of the other "specialty" inks. Also, quite easy to get from the mentioned URL.Garvey Products Also, Garvey is just Basic Violet 1 (Methyl Violet 2B; Paris Violet; Dahlia 2B) mixed up with their polymers and four different kinds of alcohol. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 12, 2004 Share Posted July 12, 2004 Originally posted by blahness krink is actual homemade silver INK, using paint and thinner to try and make it watery like ink doesnt make it krink, krink doesnt dry up the nib or ever build up in the marker like paint does.....i know cuz my friend bought some actual krink and hooked me up... Then why does it smell like Stoddard Solvent and paint? Gotta post my high-horse discourse on inks sometime... BTW: If you're doing buff tests, you should at least use acetone, because that's the main ingredient in most graffiti remover products. Ideally, you should try carb cleaner or something suitably nasty. Wear gloves. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_b0b Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 Originally posted by ASH.UGT ok so im thinking of making a silver/chome ink , i got my marker already, i was thinking if i sprayed sum paint into a container that wud work but i cant think of wot to add to it to make it stain. ? Silver ink is generally called Krink. It doesn't stain like a normal ink would, but it best used for hits outside that have to survive the weather. A friend of mine did exactly what you propose and it worked fine, but is VERY drippy. Originally posted by Locofanclub Somewhere in the past of this thread,was a recipe for homw made "Krink".Using paint,brake fluid etc etc You don't need to use brake fluid for making krink. Just an oil or enamel based paint mixed with some thinners. I got me so Hammerite Silver & Gold in pots and a pot of Hammertie thinner that I am goin to experiment with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeaaaah baby Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 fuck knowing the exact measurements of krink. try to make it yourself, and if it doesnt work just try it again.when me and my boy made it the first time we didnt know the measurments but the krink came out savage as fuck. trial and error bitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parcheesey Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 does anyone kno how well violet garvey and potassium permanganate is together. i dont have either yet, but want to kno before i buy, because that violet garvey doesnt look very thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chumbawumba Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 This has been said before but I'll say it again. Don't add any of that powder shit to Garvey because it will just fuck it up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chumbawumba Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 Well, Omen has said that adding that powder shit would fuck it up, but I don't have any personal experience of doing it. But I added OTR Flowpen Blue Ink to Violet Garvey and it didn't leave ANY stain on ANY surface.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
completionz Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Nothing should be added to garvey unless you want to make it more opaque for this mix marsh with it. Other than that dont mix anything, plus powders are expensive you should just buy more ink instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by BLaCkNiGGa a gallon? man are you going to take a bath in it? A gallon will last 2 generations. While being Garvey Violet would be awesome for about a day, I don't think so... I burn through a lot of ink. Some of it gets wasted in experiments and some of it has to be ditched from time to time, but most of it goes up. I can use up a quart of Marsh in a month if I'm on my game... Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by johndoe does anyone kno how well violet garvey and potassium permanganate is together. i dont have either yet, but want to kno before i buy, because that violet garvey doesnt look very thick. Permanganate is a great oxidiser and leaves a vivid purple stain. However, please be aware that it (and some other strong oxidisers) is used in the manufacture of methamphetamine. Thus, don't order it and don't buy very much when you do buy it. Look for it, BTW, in the water softener supplies section -- it's used to clean the gunk out of them. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by chumbawumba This has been said before but I'll say it again. Don't add any of that powder shit to Garvey because it will just fuck it up.. Solid advice, but too little information. Any crystalline or powder dye additive, such as methyl violet or methylene blue, needs to dissolve in the ink. Now, the ink is usually of a colour that doesn't allow us to tell if it has dissolved properly. Adding these powders to a marker usually results in a marker that needs a serious cleaning because it gunks up the valve. So... Take a clear container -- I use erlenmyer flasks because of they're cool lab equipment and have a graduated scale. Add about 50ml to 100ml of denatured alcohol. Now, put in your 5g to 10g of additive and stop the flask. Shake or what have you until it is dissolved. A lot of times it is helpful to allow the solution to sit overnight with several shakings/mixings. Gentian Violet (crystal violet) is particularly hard to dissolve and needs to be done this way. Now, you've got some solution to add to your ink. Up the recipe and keep some on hand. Helpful, no? This way, you're adding a liquid to your ink and there's no chance of gumming it all up. Also, GV and MB get mentioned a lot, but don't forget the other violets and blues. What about malachite green? Fuschin/magenta? All good synthetic dyestuffs. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by completionz Nothing should be added to garvey unless you want to make it more opaque for this mix marsh with it. Other than that dont mix anything, plus powders are expensive you should just buy more ink instead Close to the mark... Also, note that, as I have mentioned, Garvey is just a Basic Violet 1 ink. By adding more dye to it you really aren't accomplishing anything. However, adding an oxidiser, like the mentioned potassium permanganate, would be a boost, because the oxidiser will eat into most surfaces. Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Originally posted by b0b You don't need to use brake fluid for making krink. Just an oil or enamel based paint mixed with some thinners. I got me so Hammerite Silver & Gold in pots and a pot of Hammertie thinner that I am goin to experiment with. I've had nothing but bad luck with enamel paints. Alkyds and traditional pigment oils work best. The enamels all seem to have some kind of drying agent in them that causes them to "clot up" like crazy. Couldn't get them to flow right through a mop unless they were thinned out to the point of uselessness. Plus, all enamels seem to be cheap paints with a low pigment load... The first post (thanks for this thread Rubbish Heap, BTW) mentions 1-Shot paints, but don't overlook the Ronan Superfine Japan colours or the Ronan Bulletin colours. They're a bit cheaper sometimes and the Japan colours are amazing -- half a pint lasts forever! When it comes to thinner, there's more than mineral spirits/Stoddard Solvent, too. My thinnner mix is usually half turpentine and half Stoddard. That way, the paint doesn't dry too fast and just sit on the surface -- it has time to bond, which is what oil paints need. Post some results for your hammertone experiment. I'm curious. It would be awesome to lay up hammertone tags... Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlokddlokd Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 yo 60f1 email me.....dlokddlokd@hotmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimace Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 thanks to 6of1 for the very usefull info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
completionz Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Originally posted by 6OF1 Close to the mark... Also, note that, as I have mentioned, Garvey is just a Basic Violet 1 ink. By adding more dye to it you really aren't accomplishing anything. However, adding an oxidiser, like the mentioned potassium permanganate, would be a boost, because the oxidiser will eat into most surfaces. Be seeing you. What about break fluid is that an oxidiser because that eats into shit? also are methylene blue and gentian violet oxidisers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_b0b Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Originally posted by 6OF1 Post some results for your hammertone experiment. I'm curious. It would be awesome to lay up hammertone tags... Ok I'm in England so all those brands you just mentioned don't sell over here which is why there are so many confused euros when it comes to making krink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Originally posted by completionz What about break fluid is that an oxidiser because that eats into shit? also are methylene blue and gentian violet oxidisers? OK, DOT-3 is corrosive, which is different than oxidation. It's more like the action of a weak acid. That's why it takes a while for brake fluid to ghost a surface and also why some surfaces don't seem to ghost even with DOT-3. MB and GV are just methylaniline dyes. They're used as laboratory stains, to dye clothes, make ink and used to be used to make some of the older (lake) artists' pigments. However, any and all synthetic dyestuffs are not lightfast. Ever wonder why marker ink fades so fast? Well, it is because the dyes are fugitive, i.e., they fade. That's why no artists' pigments are made with them anymore. Makes one wonder why the label "permanent" is put on so many markers... However, for our purposes we only need the dye to stain the ground (the surface under the ink), since we've mixed our dyestuff with pigment ink. Most good black inks are pigment-based. Preferably carbon! That's why india ink isn't so shabby, if you mix it with dye. OTR HTB is basically an india ink and I think it looks better than just about any other marker ink, except for Montana black. Besides, as HTB illustrates, india ink can be made with alcohol instead of water. Or xylene could be used, etc. Potassium permanganate is an oxidiser that just happens to stain the shit out of just about anything... :dazed: Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6OF1 Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Originally posted by b0b Ok I'm in England so all those brands you just mentioned don't sell over here which is why there are so many confused euros when it comes to making krink. Well, for basic silver krink, you'd just need Rustoleum bucket aluminium and some thinner. Average ratio, as mentioned quite a few times, is about 1/3 thinner (what I use). Could vary with your climate, as well. Some fellow posted "don't thin more than 5%", but that's what's printed on the bucket, so take that with a grain of salt. I've fine results with 1/3rd... Now, as far as 1-Shot and Ronan paints go, if you can't find them, then you should look for something that is specifically billed as a "sign painter's paint". They're thick and brilliant and I find myself thinning sometimes more than half in order to get good mop paint. Even thinning half doesn't adulterate the colour, though. Dayglo brand is good, too, but some think that daylight fluorescent colours look retarded. I don't... :D If you can't even find Rustoleum, then buy the highest quality aluminium bucket paint you can find and use that. Stay away from metallic silver, as it doesn't look near as good. If you can get your paws on some powdered aluminium to add to your mix, then put some in. *bling* Those PearlEx pigments are nice, too. The MicroPearl and Pearl White will even feed through most markers. I haven't tried the MacroPearl in a marker, but I use it in colour mops and the effect is great. Look for them in craft and/or art supply houses. Remember OIL or ALKYD paints only! Be seeing you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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