Qawee Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 2 minutes ago, glorydays said: Oh they go up to 15 oz....that's like a pair of carhartt jeans Something that heavy seems like it would be cool, id have to feel it it in person (II) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Qawee said: Something that heavy seems like it would be cool, id have to feel it it in person (II) So, i kinda looked into this a little more but kinda bleh since im kind of tired apparently to reach the heavy feel that i'm looking for, I would have to opt for a Cotton/Rayon jersey fabric Edited October 27, 2020 by glorydays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qawee Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 How does the rayon mix affect the fabric? Just makes it a bit more stretchy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 1 minute ago, Qawee said: How does the rayon mix affect the fabric? Just makes it a bit more stretchy? It's described as a "performance fabric" and I have a 100% rayon hawaiian shirt and it is pretty heavy I would believe that the rayon woven in would add considerable weight to the cotton 4 way stretch and all that 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) Alright Product List for what my budget allows right now, which might change (duh) Graphic Tees (10 graphics, all white tees) Cardigan (3 colorways) Shorts (3 and same colorways matches cardigan so it's like a suit) Deck / Graphic tee (this tee will have the same graphic as the deck) Edited October 27, 2020 by glorydays 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qawee Posted October 27, 2020 Share Posted October 27, 2020 I definitely fuck with the vision! You might want to think about other colors for the t-shirts imo, i am always leary about wearing my white shirts because i know I'm eventually going to spill coffee/burbon/ketchup on them. Curious to hear what others think 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Qawee said: I definitely fuck with the vision! You might want to think about other colors for the t-shirts imo, i am always leary about wearing my white shirts because i know I'm eventually going to spill coffee/burbon/ketchup on them. Curious to hear what others think I was thinking red and grey to add to it...yea, you're right I'm gonna go with cut and sew tees anyway, light weight 8 oz jersey material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 (edited) Add - ons: oxford shirt short sleeve pop over shirt denim over shirt (embroidered logo on back) easy chino (either elastic waist or rope tie waist) Edited October 27, 2020 by glorydays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 damn...all this shit is gonna be custom BUT with the problems that Raven wrote down, i think it would be cheaper to just have a custom made tee shirts the garment district, my friend on youtube told me, should be very helpful in pointing me out in the right direction I'm gonna start with choosing fabric The one thing i need to do right now is get all of my prints done...once my prints are done then i will be able to move forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 27, 2020 Author Share Posted October 27, 2020 Before I sleep. I think i should consider "Brand Staples" in other words, shit that always comes back every season I think the cardigan/shorts suit will always be there I'm thinking of also adding a denim overshirt And the decks Once I start adding more stuff along the way....sigh, let's see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 29, 2020 Author Share Posted October 29, 2020 I don't need "tech packs" or having to create them myself to start cut and sew. The manufacturer that i decide to go with would be able to work that with me. List of stuff I need to do within the coming months: 1. Get over the fact that I cannot source a tee that I want from a reseller that is reliable 2. Cry at the expenses 3. Go to the garment district and start looking for fabric to be used for both tees and cardigan set. 4. Canvas for pattern makers 5. Look for an affordable sample maker 6. Wait a few weeks for samples to come in the mail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) got in contact with a fabric store in LA that was willing to talk to me about fabrics The lady told me that what I'm looking for in the way of heavy weight jersey is something called Double Knit. Double Knit fabrics are essentially just two layers of the same fabric woven together some of these fabrics go up to 16 oz. the lady said i can make a suit with this shit these are the colors i am for sure wanting to go with Edited October 30, 2020 by glorydays 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 (edited) Here is the prospective Tee Shirt fabric This one's for you kid @QaweeLMAO 180 GSM or 8.3oz per yard cotton jersey fairly heavy but it's similar to the custom fabric Born x Raised uses it feels oddly smooth and stretchy WHITE LIGHT HEATHER GRAY RED KHAKI OLIVE NAVY Edited October 30, 2020 by glorydays 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qawee Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 I dont have any first hand experience with born x raised but that navy is looking pretty good, especially for the fall/winter season 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 minute ago, Qawee said: I dont have any first hand experience with born x raised but that navy is looking pretty good, especially for the fall/winter season most definitely the prints are gonna be pretty big on the tee and the same for all of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 10 minutes ago, Qawee said: I dont have any first hand experience with born x raised but that navy is looking pretty good, especially for the fall/winter season and the thickness of the tees bro this is gonna come out smooth....and they're not gonna be delicate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misteraven Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 On 10/26/2020 at 9:46 PM, glorydays said: Alright Product List for what my budget allows right now, which might change (duh) Graphic Tees (10 graphics, all white tees) Cardigan (3 colorways) Shorts (3 and same colorways matches cardigan so it's like a suit) Deck / Graphic tee (this tee will have the same graphic as the deck) That’s a lot of product, especially for an upstart. Just in tees, you’re looking at generally a 100 minimum, but a lot of presses hate taking on less than 300 cause it’s basically all setup. So 10 graphics you’re at 1000 - 3000 tees just doing minimums. Figure about $12 a tee (maybe a little more or a little less and that’s using a fairly cheap stock blank), you’re at $12,000 - $36,000 just on tees. For a custom blank, you’re looking at usually 50k piece minimum and many rounds of prototyping so that’s a massive investment. You’d be doing them all in white and then batch dying in groups. Once you’re at larger volume you’d then dye fabric before it’s cut and made into shirts. If you’re going made in USA on a heavyweight blank you’re looking at 2.5 - 3x cost on the blank so that’s a cost of closer to $18 - $20. So on 1000 - 3000 pieces you’re looking at $18,000 - $20,000 on a minimum and $54,000 or $60,000 on what must consider a small order. Anyhow, not trying to deflate your idea but making sure you have a clear idea since you mentioned kicking off with 10 graphics and then still doing some cut / sew. 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misteraven Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 11 hours ago, glorydays said: got in contact with a fabric store in LA that was willing to talk to me about fabrics The lady told me that what I'm looking for in the way of heavy weight jersey is something called Double Knit. Double Knit fabrics are essentially just two layers of the same fabric woven together some of these fabrics go up to 16 oz. the lady said i can make a suit with this shit these are the colors i am for sure wanting to go with generally you’re looking at 6 or 6.1oz for heavyweight. 5.5oz or greater is officially heavyweight and the most I’ve seen is 7.5oz. Not entirely sure why they don’t generally go heavier but that’s been my experience. Also has to do with the finishing... Open yarn, brushed and / or combed cotton etc. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 hour ago, misteraven said: That’s a lot of product, especially for an upstart. Just in tees, you’re looking at generally a 100 minimum, but a lot of presses hate taking on less than 300 cause it’s basically all setup. So 10 graphics you’re at 1000 - 3000 tees just doing minimums. Figure about $12 a tee (maybe a little more or a little less and that’s using a fairly cheap stock blank), you’re at $12,000 - $36,000 just on tees. For a custom blank, you’re looking at usually 50k piece minimum and many rounds of prototyping so that’s a massive investment. You’d be doing them all in white and then batch dying in groups. Once you’re at larger volume you’d then dye fabric before it’s cut and made into shirts. If you’re going made in USA on a heavyweight blank you’re looking at 2.5 - 3x cost on the blank so that’s a cost of closer to $18 - $20. So on 1000 - 3000 pieces you’re looking at $18,000 - $20,000 on a minimum and $54,000 or $60,000 on what must consider a small order. Anyhow, not trying to deflate your idea but making sure you have a clear idea since you mentioned kicking off with 10 graphics and then still doing some cut / sew. I understand, and thank you for clearing up the the prices on the cut and sew. I was actually gonna bring your name up today to see if you could do that. I wasn't gonna launch this any time soon. There is the covid but i also wanted to make samples first before doing anything. I was talking to this one small sewing manufacturer in LA that has, to you, VERY smalll minimums compared to what you just told me. The guy who owns Raid Team put me on to some small independent manufacturers. And I'm not saying that you're lying or exaggerating! What you said seems to be the true cost of what I am trying to do. But I'm kind of hoping that the person I'm talking to can provide the quality cut and sew that my friend told me about. Thank you Raven! And I will be bringing up another subject on this thread soon, which is the legal part of selling clothes within the state you live in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 hour ago, misteraven said: generally you’re looking at 6 or 6.1oz for heavyweight. 5.5oz or greater is officially heavyweight and the most I’ve seen is 7.5oz. Not entirely sure why they don’t generally go heavier but that’s been my experience. Also has to do with the finishing... Open yarn, brushed and / or combed cotton etc. That was the case for regular single stitch cotton jersey, but the lady told me about the double knit cotton jersey which is just 2 layers of jersey woven together. I'm gonna buy a swatch of the fabrics and take pics of them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misteraven Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 hour ago, glorydays said: I understand, and thank you for clearing up the the prices on the cut and sew. I was actually gonna bring your name up today to see if you could do that. I wasn't gonna launch this any time soon. There is the covid but i also wanted to make samples first before doing anything. I was talking to this one small sewing manufacturer in LA that has, to you, VERY smalll minimums compared to what you just told me. The guy who owns Raid Team put me on to some small independent manufacturers. And I'm not saying that you're lying or exaggerating! What you said seems to be the true cost of what I am trying to do. But I'm kind of hoping that the person I'm talking to can provide the quality cut and sew that my friend told me about. Thank you Raven! And I will be bringing up another subject on this thread soon, which is the legal part of selling clothes within the state you live in. Yeah, there's certainly spot where they'll break minimums down to 48, but those are seen as sample runs and the cost per unit is exponential. I'm talking actual manufacturing. I've looked into this for years, both for myself and for clients... Not easy, which is why so few brads can do it. Most struggle just running a quality open market blank that is custom branded. Also, cost for printing stacks up fast as well, which is what led me to doing my own thing, along with all the shit quality out there. Once you do a color or two per placement, run a chest, back and sleeve and add in a custom label of some sort, you end up pushing to like $15 a tee. Then add in a quality blank and that's easily another $6 - $8 depending on what you buy (size and color). That's why you see brands like Noah breaking it down and then charging $50 for a tee despite not having a middle man and then still trying to push volume to make it worth the effort. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misteraven Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 1 hour ago, glorydays said: That was the case for regular single stitch cotton jersey, but the lady told me about the double knit cotton jersey which is just 2 layers of jersey woven together. I'm gonna buy a swatch of the fabrics and take pics of them Few things to keep in mind... You can't discharge synthetics and can't discharge some dyes / colors, assuming you plan to discharge, which is a fairly common method to underbase color on darks and maintain a light hand. Tighter the weave, the better it going to hold the ink. Too much stretch and you also limit what inks you can use. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 3 minutes ago, misteraven said: Yeah, there's certainly spot where they'll break minimums down to 48, but those are seen as sample runs and the cost per unit is exponential. I'm talking actual manufacturing. I've looked into this for years, both for myself and for clients... Not easy, which is why so few brads can do it. Most struggle just running a quality open market blank that is custom branded. Also, cost for printing stacks up fast as well, which is what led me to doing my own thing, along with all the shit quality out there. Once you do a color or two per placement, run a chest, back and sleeve and add in a custom label of some sort, you end up pushing to like $15 a tee. Then add in a quality blank and that's easily another $6 - $8 depending on what you buy (size and color). That's why you see brands like Noah breaking it down and then charging $50 for a tee despite not having a middle man and then still trying to push volume to make it worth the effort. That's true...I'm gonna try to do some leg work in Los Angeles' garment district and see if there's any generous and small cut and sew shops out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 Just now, misteraven said: Few things to keep in mind... You can't discharge synthetics and can't discharge some dyes / colors, assuming you plan to discharge, which is a fairly common method to underbase color on darks and maintain a light hand. Tighter the weave, the better it going to hold the ink. Too much stretch and you also limit what inks you can use. What about pre-dyed fabrics off the roll? Is there anything wrong with that or is that just cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misteraven Posted October 30, 2020 Share Posted October 30, 2020 31 minutes ago, glorydays said: What about pre-dyed fabrics off the roll? Is there anything wrong with that or is that just cost? You can do that too. Options will be limited to basic colors probably. Batch dying isnt too big a deal, especially out your way. Much smaller hurdle then getting the stuff cut / sewn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 7 minutes ago, misteraven said: You can do that too. Options will be limited to basic colors probably. Batch dying isnt too big a deal, especially out your way. Much smaller hurdle then getting the stuff cut / sewn. Once I head out to get swatches and some design sheets, I'll show you what I have I'll let you know what prices there are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 Thank you @misteraven I started rethinking how I'm gonna do this within the timeline I've given myself So this is basically a wishlist 1) First/Brand graphic tee. I might do this in just white 2) Pick 2 of the graphics that I have listed. Each will be in 3 colors: White, Grey, Royal Blue (I'm a dodger fan) 3) 2 Cardigans: 1 grey, 1 Navy 4) 2 Shorts: 1 grey, 1 navy 5) 2 decks: 7.75 and 8.00 Accompanying graphic tee in 1 color: grey After Raven's knowledge bomb, I'm going to have to be careful how I pull this off. Keep It Simple, Dumbshit KISD I'm gonna organize all of this into some sort of list so i can keep track of what is getting done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 For the tees, I'll be going with a 8 oz cotton jersey And the cardigan/shorts will be a 16 oz ponte de roma double knit cotton jersey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 Yea, I'm definitely keeping all of my product count low I think the exclusivity would make it better and I can raise the price a little on my products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glorydays Posted October 30, 2020 Author Share Posted October 30, 2020 I just did my "calculations" on the total of how many of each color i need I used a number that I can handle for now but is flexible enough to change at any time fuuuuuck....I am determined to continue with a cut and sew tee shirt, I believe that kind of quality will be associated with my upstart brand and people will come back expecting it. What i need to do is download a tee shirt pattern online and try to change that to what i want let's try a crash course in pattern making and fucking wing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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