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• Picasa digital photo organizer (outstanding usefulness for any digital camera owner)

http://picasa.google.com/download/thanks.html

 

• Thunderbird Email Client (a fine alternative to Outlook email)

http://mozilla.org/thunderbird/

 

• VLC media player (much better than Real Player or Windows Media Player, and will play a greater breadth of file types)

http://www.videolan.org/vlc/

 

• WinRar compression/decompression (a shareware product, WinRar outpaces WinZip because of its ability to open more file formats.)

http://www.rarlabs.com/rar/wrar351.exe

 

• Ad-Aware anti-spyware (excellent protection for the price)

http://www.lavasoftusa.com/software/adaware/

 

• Audacity audio editor (for recording radio songs, creating voicemail messages, ringtones, and more)

http://audacity.sourceforge.net/

 

• Fox It .pdf reader (faster and more reliable than Adobe)

http://www.foxitsoftware.com/pdf/rd_intro.php

 

• Firefox web browser (simply put, this is better than IE for daily web browsing)

http://mozilla.org/firefox/

 

• Skype communication software (add a headset and you talk long distance through your computer...

for no long distance fee!)

http://skype.com/

 

• Google Earth (the power of satellite photography, GPS tracking, and the Internet, all in one screen!)

http://earth.google.com/

 

• Open Office spreadsheet, word processing, and presentations software (2/3rds as good as Microsoft Office 2003, and absolutely free)

http://www.openoffice.org/

 

• Trillian instant messenger (run multiple accounts and names, and have Wiki access too. Excellent if you like to instant message.)

http://www.ceruleanstudios.com/

 

• Special mention: uTorrent (this is the absolutely most reliable bittorrent downloading software today)

http://www.utorrent.com/

 

just to add most of these programs listed will run on MAC and linux so im not leaving you out

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This HOWTO tells you how to prepare your Xbox for Linux without opening it.

 

If you buy an Xbox, and you insert a Linux installation CD, by default it will not be accepted - not because the Xbox is no PC (it is!), but because Microsoft doesn't seem to want you to run Linux.

 

By using the MechInstaller trick, you can make your Xbox Linux-compatible, without ever opening it!

 

heres the link on how to do it http://www.xbox-linux.org/wiki/Software_Method_HOWTO

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mr abc is having trouble connecting to the internets.

 

 

his modem model is a speedstream 5100b dsl modem

 

AIM works fine but no webpages load. he's tried reinstalling the modem, network connection, the browser.

 

and he's done the turn off the computer/unplug modem for 30 seconds thing.

 

 

any suggestions?

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he has run adaware?

try to restart in safe mode run adaware... a/v app and whatever if he hasnt already.... beyond that i really dont know... im no mainter... ive seen frineds' dsl slow down and pick back up after the shut everything off and unplug and the reconnect and turn on thing... i have cable though so idk

if the aim works he has some type of connection so its not completely dead...

spyware is the only thing i can think of

 

* you posted too quick... can he run a full scan with it though? in safe mode..

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Originally posted by iloveboxcars@Mar 11 2006, 04:25 PM

mr abc is having trouble connecting to the internets.

 

 

his modem model is a speedstream 5100b dsl modem

 

AIM works fine but no webpages load. he's tried reinstalling the modem, network connection, the browser.

 

and he's done the turn off the computer/unplug modem for 30 seconds thing.

 

 

any suggestions?

 

 

yeah tell him to call his ISP or phone company and tel lthe fuckers to come fix the line

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To iloveboxcars if you can get this to mrabc or he can download it with 56k dialup modem (if its not his NIC then we can see if its spyware or not

 

A vast majority of the time it is due to programs running on the computer that are internet related, and the user is unaware of them. These could be, but are not limited to the following: chat programs, file sharing programs, firewalls, spyware, and viruses. Other things that can effect your DSL connection could be more physical, such as a lengthy(over 6 feet) or faulty phone cord, surge protector or DSL modem, bad DSL microfilters, noisy telephones, poor inside telephone wiring, or a problem with the actual telephone service.

 

http://www.merijn.org/files/hijackthis_sfx.exe

Click the "Save" button.

 

Navigate to My Documents>Chose My Downloads or My Received Files folder once inside that folder click "Save".

 

Now go to the folder you saved HijackThis_sfx.exe in.

 

Double click HijackThis_sfx.exe and select Unzip. When done click "OK".

Close the WinZip self Extractor window.

 

Navigate to C:\Program Files\HijackThis and double click HijackThis.exe, and hit "Scan".

 

When the scan is finished, the "Scan" button will change into a "Save Log" button.

Press that, save the log, Ctrl-A to Select All, and paste Ctrl-V its contents here [Add Reply].

 

Most of what it lists will be harmless or even essential, don't fix anything yet.

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http://www.toilette-humor.com/computer-at-night.html

 

 

Microsoft is offering a free USB drive when you take a short, four-question, propaganda-laden quiz about Windows licensing. It's a pretty cool -- and painless -- way to get a USB drive.

 

Okay, it's not completely painless. You need a Microsoft Passport password (register for one here) And the drive comes loaded with easily deleted propaganda.

 

At the site, click the picture of the USB drive (and if your ad-blocker is set to block Java, unblock the page). However unethical you think I am, I'm giving you the answers: 2, T, T, T.

 

 

http://www.microsoft.com//windowsxp/myster...rp/default.mspx?

 

on the right side you will see a picturebutton_val_info_licen_143x168.gif

click it and fill the form

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here are four common PC problems you may be able to fix by yourself:

 

1.You turn on the computer and nothing happens.

 

No lights, no beeps, no fan noise. What is the first thing you do? Be sure the darn thing is plugged in! Even if you're absolutely certain that it is connected, double check.

 

Assuming that it is plugged in, you probably have a bad power supply. This is a metal box located in the top and back of the computer. It is usually held in by four screws and the power cable connects to it. A fan blows air out the back.

 

A wiring harness exits the power supply inside the computer. Numerous power connectors are attached to the ends of the wires. These plug into drives, fans and possibly other gizmos. The harness also will have connectors to the motherboard. It doesn't matter which wire connects where, as long as the connector fits.

 

When you open the computer, this mess of wiring can be very intimidating. Study it, and you'll find it less mysterious. Note the connections in writing, if necessary. Disconnect the wires and remove the power supply. Take it to the computer store and get a replacement with the same wattage. Figure on spending $50-$70.

 

2.The computer comes on, but nothing appears on your monitor.

 

In other words, Windows never shows up. You may have a monitor problem. Try using another known-good monitor on the computer and see if anything shows up on the screen. If the second monitor works, the first one is bad. Monitors are not worth repairing. Just buy a new one. Never open the back of a monitor to fix it. The capacitors inside monitors store electricity. You could be injured or even killed.

 

If the screen is dark, it could be a video card problem. First, find the video card. This is a circuit board that fits into a slot in the motherboard. The cable from the monitor connects to the VGA (video graphics adapter) port, which sticks out through the back of the computer. If the VGA port is part of the motherboard, the video is built-in. You can't fix that. Otherwise, it will be part of the video card.

 

Assuming you have a separate card, be sure it is firmly seated. The front end of the card can rise out of the slot inadvertently when the back end is screwed down to the computer frame.

 

If you have a computer that is working perfectly, turn it off and remove the video card. Put the card that works in the problem computer. If the system works, you need a new card. If you don't have an extra card to test your system, buy a cheap one ($30-$50). If it doesn't solve the problem, take it back.

 

You can spend hundreds of dollars on a video card. But if you're running business applications and surfing the Web, buy on price. The expensive stuff is for serious gamers.

 

3.If you regularly get the "Blue Screen of Death," you may have a random access memory (RAM) problem.

 

Note the message on the blue screen, especially the numbers. Check it in Microsoft's Help and Support Knowledge Base. Also, put the text of the error message in a search engine and check the Internet.

 

Assuming you can diagnose it, a memory problem is easy to fix. If you can't find the diagnosis information you need online, you can try swapping out memory sticks from another computer. But that memory must be the same type. If all else fails, take the old memory to a computer store. The people there may be willing to test it.

 

Sticks of memory go in slots near the microprocessor. They're about four inches long. Remove the old memory and match it at the store. Memory prices are all over the map, depending on type and speed. Be sure you get the same type.

 

When you press the new memory into the slot, you will probably have to use some force. The clips on each end will snap into place when the memory is seated properly.

 

4.If you boot up, and the computer cannot find the C: drive, you might have a bad hard drive.

 

If you have another computer, swap hard drives to diagnose the problem. If your computer boots with the other drive, yours is probably bad.

 

Sometimes, a reboot will work. Your drive might have enough life to spin up occasionally. If this works, transfer your data to another drive, pronto.

 

According to techie lore, you can seal a nonworking drive in a bag and put it in a freezer overnight. That could shrink things enough to free them up. I've used this trick a few times and it's worth a try.

 

A regular backup regimen will save you in case of hard-drive failure, assuming you aren't backing up to the same hard drive. If the drive is dead and you don't have a backup, a computer shop may be able to save your data.

 

Hard drives are cheap. You can get a replacement for less than $100. Get one boxed for retail, which will include instructions and any hardware needed.

 

Your hard drive is in the front of your machine. It will be about the size of a paperback book and is probably held in by four screws, two on each side. Power and ribbon cables connect to the back.

 

Put the new drive in and install it as the master. Reconfigure the old drive as the slave. The instructions that come with the new drive should explain that. Boot the computer and install Windows on the new drive. If you're lucky, the computer will see the old drive (it will be D:). You can then transfer your data to the new drive.

 

Replacing a hard drive is more difficult than the other operations. However, if you pay to have the work done, it may not be cost effective. You might be better off buying a new machine. So if you are adventuresome, and you have the time, changing the hard drive may be worthwhile.

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things to look for in a new desktop PC

 

Does your old clunker make wheezing noises when it boots up? Has your typing become faster than your computer? Tired of looking at the Windows hourglass for minutes at a time?

Perhaps it's time for a new desktop computer.

 

The Microprocessor

 

This is one of the most expensive parts. Microprocessors for Windows machines are made by Intel and AMD. Those for Apples are made by IBM and Motorola. So here's my first piece of advice: Don't worry about who makes the chip. All four are good.

For Windows machines, you have a choice of the AMD Athlon XP, AMD Athlon 64, Intel Pentium 4 and Intel Celeron, an economy chip. The Pentium 4, Athlon XP and Athlon 64 range from powerful to really powerful. The Athlon 64 could run 64-bit programs, if they existed. It also runs today's 32-bit programs very well.

The fastest Pentium 4s are well over 3 gigahertz — very fast, indeed. They're also very expensive. Comparable AMD chips are less costly. Even AMD's 64-bit chip is less expensive. And it is certainly powerful.

You may need a high-end fire-breather if you're doing lots of video editing. Ditto if you're working with computer-aided design or playing advanced games. Otherwise, don't go for top-end chips. Microprocessors a few steps from the top are plenty powerful, and much less expensive.

The AMD chips combine great power with a low price. If you can find a computer you like with an AMD microprocessor, it will probably be a good deal. But don't pay up for a 64-bit AMD chip. Software to run on it is not yet available. A 64-bit version of Windows is expected in the first half of 2005.

Intel's Celeron is a budget chip. If you do typical office duties and surf the Web, you can save some money. But it is less powerful than Pentium 4s and the Athlons.

Apple and AMD chips run at lower speeds than those made by Intel. AMD uses the + symbol, as in 3200+, to imply that its chips are faster than comparable Intel microprocessors. But tests often show that AMD chips run more slowly. But those are laboratory tests; you won't notice a significant difference.

Apple claims its top-end machines are faster than those running Windows. That is a matter of controversy; there are Web sites devoted to debunking Apple's claims. If you're interested in an Apple computer, test one at a store, then test a Windows machine. Apple computers are more expensive than comparable Windows machines.

Like AMD, Apple offers 64-bit microprocessors. They can crunch twice as much data as 32-bit chips. But there are virtually no programs that take advantage of this power at this time.

 

 

The Operating System

 

Windows XP and Apple's OS X are also difficult to compare. But there's really no need. Both are stable and fast. You'll probably be satisfied with either.

Windows XP comes in two flavors: Home and Professional. Windows XP Professional is a superset of Home; it has all of Home's goodies, plus some other stuff. Most of it is networking capability. Professional costs about U.S. $100 more.

But it does have some nice features. One is Remote Desktop, which allows you to access one computer from another. For instance, you could sign onto your office computer from home and check your e-mail. It also allows you to encrypt files and folders.

 

 

Random Access Memory

 

You will need a minimum of 256 megabytes of memory. If you can afford it, get 512 MB. I'd go to one gigabyte for demanding applications, such as video editing. Memory is relatively inexpensive, so don't stint.

I have a friend who has an old machine with Windows XP and 128 MB of memory. Microsoft says that will work, and it is right. But it doesn't work very well. She cannot run Microsoft Word on that machine. There just is not enough memory to accommodate both Windows XP and Word. So buy more — again, it is relatively inexpensive.

 

 

Hard Drives are Big and Bigger

 

How about hard drives? If you do a lot of video work, you need a big hard drive. Actually, the bigger the better, because video files are huge. Hard drives at 200 to 250 GB are common and relatively inexpensive.

Otherwise, the gargantuan drives common today far outstrip the customer's needs. Even low-end machines today have 40 GB hard drives. Most people are unlikely to fill that. I recommend putting your extra money elsewhere.

 

 

The Video System

 

The video system sends the picture to the monitor. Many inexpensive computers use the main-system RAM to run video. The video processor is built into the motherboard (the main circuit board). This works, but is less desirable.

Better computers have a separate circuit board, called a video card. This includes the video processor and memory. For video cards, 64 MB of RAM is pretty standard. That's more than enough for day-to-day computing.

However, if you are doing video work or playing advanced games, get a card with 128 MB of RAM. Truly hardcore gamers can get cards with 256 MB of RAM.

 

 

The Monitor

 

Do you need to buy a monitor? Most people get one without thinking. But monitors don't necessarily come with computers. Often, you can lower your cost by refusing the monitor. Why would you do that? If you're satisfied with your current monitor, it should work OK with your new computer.

There are two basic types of monitors: CRTs and flat-panels. CRTs are much less expensive: You can find 19-inchers for around U.S. $200 on sale. That is a good, big screen. I would not buy a CRT monitor that was less than 17 inches. Keep in mind that that measurement is diagonal, and includes a portion of the screen hidden behind the bezel. A 17-inch CRT will have a visible screen size of 16 inches or less.

Flat-panel monitors may be more expensive than CRTs, but they are fast becoming the monitor of choice. They come in two flavors: analog and digital. Digital signals are produced natively by the computer; they do not need to be converted. Analog signals are converted from digital by the video system. Some consider digital signals clearer. If you go for digital, be sure your video system has a digital output.

 

 

CDs and DVDs

 

All computers come with optical drives — either CD or DVD. All but the very cheapest have burners. ("Burning" is the process of making a CD or DVD.) CD-RW burners are still the most common, but DVD burners are available on more expensive machines.

DVD is wildly popular, but remains troubled by incompatible standards. You're likely to see DVD+R/RW or DVD-R/RW on a computer. They are incompatible, but most players can handle R discs made on either. R means a disc can be recorded once. RW stands for rewriteable, meaning a disc can be recorded numerous times. DVD burners can also make CDs.

I recommend that you spring for a CD-RW, at least.

One final point: I hear from so many people on my radio show who wonder when is the best time to buy a computer.

 

There will always be something faster, better, hotter, cooler, bigger or smaller coming. If you need a computer, buy one now.

 

this was written by Kim Komando

 

good info

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other issues.

 

I uninstalled IE about 2 years ago. Now I'm trying to reinstall it, but when I use the installer, it says I already have a current version installed, but I don't. Anyone know where I can get the full install instead of the downloader install?

 

Also, I'm trying to install some extensions for firefox, but I some how have installs disabled. I go to tools > options > content and toggle some of the options, but nothing seems to work, any ideas?

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ok.. final issue... sorry about the multiple posts.. I dont get online much anymore.

 

I installed a new Emu soundcard a couple months ago. When I play a playlist in WinAmp, I get this growing reverb sound as it continues. So, I've been forced to use Media Player... which sucks. Also, all of a sudden, Media Player is having the same effect when I watch DVDs now. Any advice? Seems like it'd have something to do w/ RAM, but I have 2 512 sticks in there

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Originally posted by Mainter+Mar 9 2006, 08:48 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Mainter - Mar 9 2006, 08:48 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Vanity@Mar 9 2006, 12:18 AM

ok.. 2 things:

- i uninstalled IE about 2 years ago, but now i need it back fora couple reasons. i d/ol the ie installer from microsoft and it says i have a mor recent version already installed (i dont)... i do it through the control panel... get an ie icon that opens fire fox,, any advice?

 

-anyway to update windows w/ firefox (this isnt why i need ie)

 

 

ok you cannot get rid of IE on a windows machine unless you do some major registry editing sounds like you just really corrupted IE all i can think of right now is to update to IE 7.0 you can download this in firefox but............ you have to have a legal copy of windows xp

 

http://www.sendover.com/RD54-6H-U1VK here i uploaded my orginal of IE7.0 then you will beable to uninstall it and because its a beta version and it will overwrite the corrupted 6.0 after its done just download 6.0 again you should be all set

 

after that make firefox your default browser nothing else

[/b]

 

 

already responded when you had it posted in casek computer corner

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Originally posted by Vanity@Mar 12 2006, 06:55 AM

So I'm burning a mix to a CD. I burned it as a normal audio CD, but there are pauses between the tracks. Is there some way I can avoid this? Or is the CD player playing it a bigger factor?

 

 

what burning program are you using go into the settings it should say disable pause

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Originally posted by Weapon X@Mar 12 2006, 04:31 PM

I'm thinking about building a new computer in the near future. Should I get a 2.8 GhZ or is there something better that I should get right now, or possibly wait for until it comes out? Not too expensive, though!

 

 

you can get a 3.2 for 700 so go for atleast 3.0 dont worry about the dualcore and all that crap

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Originally posted by Vanity@Mar 12 2006, 07:10 AM

ok.. final issue... sorry about the multiple posts.. I dont get online much anymore.

 

I installed a new Emu soundcard a couple months ago. When I play a playlist in WinAmp, I get this growing reverb sound as it continues. So, I've been forced to use Media Player... which sucks. Also, all of a sudden, Media Player is having the same effect when I watch DVDs now. Any advice? Seems like it'd have something to do w/ RAM, but I have 2 512 sticks in there

 

 

im not quite sure on this one maybe someone else will have an idea.

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http://fileforum.betanews.com/detail/YamiP...ws/1102370383/1

 

YamiPod is a freeware application to efficiently manage your iPod. It can be run directly from your iPod and needs no installation. It also has extra features such as rss news and podcast support, remove duplicates, easy notes editor (with multipage support), songs synchronization, playlists export and much more

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