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Guest HESHIANDET

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What should be my first road bike? my friend just got a TREK 1000 and I like it so I was thinking about that or a 1200 maybe. I wanna be able to smoke him when we race. It's mainly going to be used around the city and sometimes country roads. Any suggestions?

 

its not about training harder. its about training smarter. fuck whate people tell you, do waht your body tells you.

 

 

in cycling, invest your money accodingly:

 

1. Yourself

-nutrition, massages, quality food, ect.

2. Wheels

-light weight and aerodynamics

3. EPO

-blood booster mafuckerzzzzzzzzzzz

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Swedish, what road wheel did you have in mind? Light weight and aerodynamics usually seem to be polar opposites unless you're buying a $2000 Zipp wheelset, atleast from what I've seen when looking at wheels because lightweight usually = low profile whereas aero is a deep v profile and subsequently heavier unless it's carbon. Maybe I'm forgetting about low spoke wheelsets?

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well, i personally ride the zipp 404's. however, unless you will be taking on a heavy racing schedule, it wouldnt make very much sense to buy those. however(again), there is no way in fucking hell i'd pay that much for a wheelset. I bought mine used off of ebay. i believed i grabbed them for around 800 dollars. that still is a lot of money for a fucking bike wheel, but this isnt a cheap sport.

 

i know american classic makes a wheel called the 420. 34 mm deep rim, 1530 gram wheelset for 900 bucks if you get them tubulars. Also, neuvation makes deep dish carbon wheelset that is relatively speaking very affordable. I'm assuming that you are looking for a road wheel. If you want you can PM and i can give you my screen name and we can talk more if you are seriously considering purchasing some wheels. theres a lot out there.

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rubbish heap two: a light wheel that is stiff but not super aero will still make a very large improvement and it will do it at a much nicer price point. Rotational mass is the enemy as much as aerodynamics. Check out Mavic's Kysirium line up. Even a handbuilt wheelset with nice components can be very light and surprisingly stiff without being fatiguing and overly rigid.

 

I don't know what kind of racing you will be doing but a modest ($475-875) invesment in an all around wheelset will save more cash for other items.

When you buy racing wheels (Zipps or equivalent) keep in mind they only go on for race day or a very competetive training race (maybe).

You have to be competing for points at a high level to plunk for 35 or 40 rides a season.

 

I just jumped in here so I'm not trying to be discouraging, I have a room full of road and cross equipment myself. My budget is not huge so I spend wisely. I used to work at a shop so I have a pretty good knowledge of the equipment vs. cost vs. gain in performance ratio.

 

The biggest difference you can make...Put in the work but do it intelligently and listen to your body. In the spring you'll be killing fools. Oh and go watch some cross races if you can't get into one.

They keep you excited about racing in the off season.

 

That was my very long winded two cents.

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swedish: i was just curious for curiousity's sake, i don't have the funds to buy some race wheels right now let alone a geared bike (otherwise that casati would be mine :)). i plan on getting into longer group rides fixed this fall with a cycling team, and track racing next season when it starts again at alpenrose. for now i'm riding handbuilt velocity aeroheads laced to dura ace hubs with double butted dt swiss spokes on my nice track bike and loving it. if/when i get serious about track i'd likely buy some araya gold tubular wheels and tufo tires for the light weightness... but yeah, i'm not sure if i ever plan on doing formal road racing, i just see track for the formal and alleycats for the informal/fun in my future.

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Funny you should mention that Hesh... those are the two things I'm adding to my training regimen this winter.

 

Rubbish... what team you riding fixed with this winter? I'll be doing a fair amount of fixed riding this winter and could hook up if you're interested.

 

As for wheels... I have a set of the Ritchey WCS carbon clinchers I'm selling if anyone is interested - $700 and comes with Dura Ace ten speed cassette and Conti 4000 tires.

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what's the bcd on the mighty comp? i'll be selling off a sugino 130bcd 48t chainring shortly. it's 3/32 though.

 

its 144 bcd. nd 1/8th chain. altho i dont mind running 3/32.

im just swithcing up my setup for cosmetic reasons.

still going to run 71 inches.

 

here's a good gear calculator for the single/fixed peoples.

 

http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html

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doping talk has me jonesed, haha. man i dont need you guys trying to drag me back to old ways....

 

anyhow,

a comment made on another forum by someone i thought i was my friend made me realize something. i may think im 'realer' than people, and some people may think they are 'realer' than me. while i will still hate on newbies and garbage fixed gear tricks and gear, if your out riding everyday on some level im cool w/ you. that said im off to ride in the rain.

 

and to the questionable friend, i ride everyday kid, shave my legs, weigh in just over 170, and dont talk behind peoples backs anymore. thanks for making me realize some faults of my own. i feel good now more than ever. hope your well with yourself.

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A recent article I saw on the topic of helmets-- basically, yes, they are a target for cars. Statistically, people give riders less leeway when they see that they are wearing helmets (and more leeway if they think they are girls). Still, if it does come down to a crash, you're way better off with one than without.

 

 

In unrelated news, I'm in the process of sanding and repainting a BMX I found in a pile of trash a few weeks ago. I'm assuming it was stolen, as it looked like it was very hastily spraypainted black, and then abandoned when one of the tires went flat. I haven't had a bike in a while (I pretty much skateboard everywhere I go), but I think that this will be my new short-range winter transportation. I'm pretty excited. Any advice on bike detailing would be very much welcomed.

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need some fast advice before work tomorrow if anyone's on here... i got a really nasty flat tire today which resulted in a screw tearing through the tire, tube and into the rim, where it put a little hole about the size of a spoke/valve hole in my rim. besides the cosmetic damage and the fact that it'll need to be smoothened out / retaped over, is this going to ruin the integrity of my rim or can i get away with riding it out for a month or three?

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well looks like my rim is fine even if there's a new hole in it. a piece of rim tape to patch the hole and no flats/catastrophic failures yet. let's hope this lasts.

 

something tells me the PDX rain is going to come back regularly any week now. it was misty day today but i liked it alot. it's nice to ride and not be dripping in sweat.

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Finally got the fixed gear winter bike rolling and ready for commuting / training. I think I may have gone a little too big on the gearing. I went with a 69 inch gearing when I think I should have gone with a 63 or 64 inch gearing. A 63 inch gear at 17mph should put me at about 100rpm which is perfect. I'll have to figure that out. First ride I was reminded rather quickly how good it feels to be in complete control of the bike by using just your legs. I'm no nut-bag though... I got front and rear brakes on there too.

 

The guys at Cyclepath hooked it up real nice...

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Nice, what frame did you end up getting? 63 seems pretty damn low... when I started, I was at 60 not by preference but just because that was what the bike i bought was geared at, and that was ridiculously low for portland. right now i'm at 66.4 on the work bike on one side of the hub and 79 on the other... i'd say around 70-75 works really well in my experience, but if you're trying to learn to spin at really high RPM's you can throw out this advice because i'm just speaking for around town riding in general. on my nice bike i run 75" and it's an absolute pleasure to ride, just about the best i've found for going up hills/not killing the knees, and not spinning out on the way back down.

 

http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html this is a nice little calculator for figuring out speeds at certain RPM's with your gear ratio, as well as a few other things.

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Nice, what frame did you end up getting? 63 seems pretty damn low... when I started, I was at 60 not by preference but just because that was what the bike i bought was geared at, and that was ridiculously low for portland. right now i'm at 66.4 on the work bike on one side of the hub and 79 on the other... i'd say around 70-75 works really well in my experience, but if you're trying to learn to spin at really high RPM's you can throw out this advice because i'm just speaking for around town riding in general. on my nice bike i run 75" and it's an absolute pleasure to ride, just about the best i've found for going up hills/not killing the knees, and not spinning out on the way back down.

 

http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html this is a nice little calculator for figuring out speeds at certain RPM's with your gear ratio, as well as a few other things.

 

i posted that link at the top of the page, its real good.

but yeah 71.5 is what im running right now.

for hills and flat its great.

i think when i first put my bike together i was at 65, and i felt like i was spinning out too much.

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also,

i think i may have slipped a disc in my neck the other day at work. i feel like i cant hold my head up and my finger tips are tingling. i could barely ride to work this morning. im bummed, i had a nice century planned for tomorrow ending at a brewery w/ a car and clean clothes meeting me to get wasted.

 

:(

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