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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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OK FIRST THAT OINK SHIT LOOKS MAD GREY AND NOT FLAT BLACK OR EVEN BLACK FOR THAT MATTER

SECOND I TEST MY INK AGAINST THE CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS THE MTA USES TO BUFF THE TRAINS HERE IN NEWYORK IM NOT HATING ON THIS DUDE BUT YOUR PRODUCT LOOKS SUB PAR TO ME AND I ALSO FIND IT VERY FUNNY THAT THE STAFF HERE HAS NOT COME AT YOU FOR ADVERTISING YOUR PRODUCT ON THIS WEBSITE SINCE I WAS BANNED SEVERAL TIMES UNTIL THEY ACTUALY STARTED SELLING MY SHIT HERE

 

I DONT KNOW I DONT TAKE KINDLY TO COMPETITION WE WILL SEE WHATS UP IF AND OR WHEN YOUR INK HITS THE MARKET PLACE WHATS REALY GOOD WITH IT!

WHATEVER HERS SOME FLIX!

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shauns ink is by far better than this oink crap....for starters there are REAL examples of buff jobs on DED. also it looks alot nicer(glossy, blacker), there is more than 1 type...eg. indoor/outdoor...and for those of you who are arguing over the drips situation...there is more to drips then just what mop your using and how you use it, as you can see DED drips well without pooring a bucket of it onto the wall..nice clean drips to the ground...

 

and all you people on oinks dick, where was your enthusiasm when shaun was just getting started?

 

bump for DED

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I'm going wiith Thirstyman on the DED/Oink issue. Oink, I noticed in one of your posts you mentioned your not a writer? Not to be a dick, but when you have an experienced and up writer like Shaun promoting a product he made its more likely I'll choose DED. But keep going and keep making staining ink, if you post some pics of what actuall buff jobs have done to your ink I'll look into becoming a customer if your results are good.

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Shut your mouth bitch and read the original post before you clog a decent thread. The point I was making is that Shaun has alot more evidence that his ink is decent and leaves a nice ghost also, second point, that people are more likely to buy DED cos' they know Shauns a writer while Oink, in a previous post, stated that he didnt write.

 

Do I need to go further or shall we just have a big sharing session and share our thoughts on the issue. Remeber kids, sharing is the key to graffiti.

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The other ink recipe threads are dying, and nobody wants to read through 10 pages to find what they want. Therefore I decided to start a new one. This thread is intended for those who don't know much about ink to start learning. I'm giving it my best shot to answer all of your questions.

 

Now, lets take a primer in Ink 101.

 

INK VS. PAINT

There's two main things you can use as a base for your recipe: inks/dyes, or bucket paint. Ink and bucket paint do not mix with each other.

 

If you're into getting custom colors that no one else has, get yourself some small containers of bucket paint. Two recommended brands are Rustoleum and One-Shot. While most people have heard of Rusto and know of it for its thickness, One Shot is less well known but has a lot of nice colors and comes out super glossy or metallic. Sign painters use it for their work; it's tough shit and it contains lead, so be careful. Bucket paint is not as permanent as a lot of inks, and really does not stain too well at all, but it usually will not weather away quickly and is still slightly hard to buff. Make sure you get oil-based. You can't put paint in most markers, so it's recommended that you put it in a mop, preferably a Kiwi. If you want more drips, be sure to thin out the paint with mineral spirits. Do NOT thin with xylene if your mop is plastic, as xylene eats plastic away.

 

Onto the inks. If you're into shit that stains hard, love the colors black and/or violet, and want your shit to last long and sink deep into the surface, this is the shit for you. Pretty much every ink is alcohol based, as is leather dye. Marsh ink is about the most well known in the US. In my experiences, it's not that much different from Pilot ink, though a little more expensive and slightly harder to buff (but it's not going to make much of a difference). Anyways, ink looks good on a wall, flows well through the marker, and is relatively hard to buff, but usually won't stain hard or leave a ghost. Now, on to leather dye. This is the shit when it comes to nice colors, leaving a nasty stain, and being some of the hardest shit to buff. So why don't you just use leather dye as ink and leave out the Marsh/Pilot ink? Well, truth is, it looks like fucking water color paint when applied to a wall, and it doesn't flow as well. You gotta mix it with ink. Some popular brands are Griffin, which you can find at Walgreens, and Fiebing's. The hardest staining colors made by Fiebing's are violet and red. Be very careful when handling this shit - if it drips anywhere in the house, it's damn hard to clean off. Now on to brake fluid. Why do people use brake fluid in there recipes ? Brake fluid is corrossive and eats through paint and into the wall, kind of like what etch does to glass, except not as permanent. Anyways, it's good stuff. You can find it at Walgreens, also. Make sure you get DOT3 and don't add too much into your recipe.

 

Now, the recipes.

 

NUMBER ONE : HARD STAINING HOME MADE INK

Get a jar. Put in either Pilot ink or Marsh as your base, and add some Griffin, less than or equal to the amount of Pilot. Now get some Fiebing's leather dye, and add it to the batch, preferably red or purple, as they stain the hardest. Next, get some brake fluid, and give a generous amount - not too little, but definitely not too much as it will affect the flow. Mix that shit around. You can also try boiling them together and then using a thinner, as they'll thicken when heated. Personally, I've never tried heating / boiling any of my inks. If you want, you can try adding Gentian Violet or Methylene Blue (the additive).

 

Next, put it in your marker. Let's pretend you have a Pilot, since they're the easiest to refill and one of the best markers around. Simply unscrew the top, and drop some ink in there until it's slightly overflowing above the cotton. Now, screw the top back on, open the marker and let the ink drop through the nib and land back into the jar. This will get the nib nice and juicey. You can also put this into a mop. This shit is going to stain hard and leave a ghost once its buffed, so the only way to really get rid of it is paint over it (and certain things just don't get painted over, signs for instance).

 

NUMBER TWO : HOME MADE KRINK

This ones for homemade Krink. Krink is a recipe made by KR from New York ; you can buy his shit off http://www.fourthehardway.com or get more info at http://www.krink.com . He charges 15 bucks ; if you want to know the exact proportions to the recipe, buy some and let the ingrediants settle over time and seperate. Anyways, this is some of the easiest shit to make yourself at home. First, get some Rusto Aluminum paint. Its nice and silver. Next get some Paint thinner. Mix it to whatever proportion you want - the more thinner, the more drippy. You can also add a little bit of brake fluid, for staining power, and aluminum dust for shines.

 

CHAPSTICK MARKER RECIPE

This is a recipe I typed awhile back in the Tools of the Trade thread.

 

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

- Chapstick container.

- Pilot ink, or whatever you prefer.

- A candle and matches.

- A felt chalk board eraser.

- An eyedropper (comes with Pilot ink).

 

1. Get the chapstick container, empty out the chapstick and clean out the container.

 

2. Melt some wax into it from the candle, so that the bottom is sealed and won't leak any ink.

 

3. Put in your ink of choice with the eyedropper. i used pilot because it's cheap and flows fine.

 

3. Get the felt eraser. Rip off one of the strips. cut it about 1/4. Shove that bit into the container, just make sure you can get the cap back on.

 

4. Finally, get the eyedropper back out and drip some ink onto the nib until it becomes juicy. After that you're ready to go. When the nib gets dry, rejuice it with the eye dropper and ink.

 

 

Any questions are welcome. I'm constantly answering them and editing the front page to contain more information.

DOES ANY 1NE HAVE A RECIPE FOR GROG... DOESNT HAVE TO BE PERFECT BUT IM LOOKIN FOR SOMETHING THATS SIMPLE,AND GONNA STAIN UGLY...AND IF NOT THAT WAT COULD I MIX WITH GROG TO IMPROVE THE INKS STAINING..

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^^use the recipe above for "NUMBER ONE : HARD STAINING HOME MADE INK" and replace "Pilots ink or Marsh" with "Grog." Then just follow the directions.

Grog is like Marsh... is like Pilot ink.

It's just a ready to permanently mark a surface.

You want the staining, so just use the above recipe with Grog ink.

 

Honestly, unless you are marking on unpainted metal, or plastic, you really don't need the staining agents. The basic ink is awesome already. But this recipe rocks for painted metal because it will leave the ghost around the tag when the ink finally does fade.

Stay up.

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DOES ANY 1NE HAVE A RECIPE FOR GROG... DOESNT HAVE TO BE PERFECT BUT IM LOOKIN FOR SOMETHING THATS SIMPLE,AND GONNA STAIN UGLY...AND IF NOT THAT WAT COULD I MIX WITH GROG TO IMPROVE THE INKS STAINING..

 

This is not the way to make new friends...

I buy ink, i don't really have the patience or tenacity to pursue homemade ink.

If you want to do the standard 2/3 rusto - 1/3 paint thinner paint recipe for your mop, i'd advise you to not bother with the brake fluid. I find it makes my paint flow inconsistent and streaky and i don't notice an appreciable stain, at least, no more than just with the ol' paint and thinner mix. I DO recommend mixing a little red with a lot of blue rusto, it comes out deep purple and when it's buffed it looks burgundy. Neat.

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^^nice color combo!

Anyone ever thin with V&M Naptha?

I've had it sitting around until I make more paint.

It states that it does the job of high quality thinner, but dries faster and is more volatile.

About to mix some Rusto Yellow, and a little 1Shot green for a nice thick unique green and I plan on using the V&M Naptha. Will show some flicks when I get it all set(noting exciting but a hopefully a good color at least). Has anyone else used this chemical before?

V&M Naptha?

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Ok, ghetto grog/dinferno:

 

  1. Grab your favourite blue leatherdye (i prefer Fiebings)
  2. Cook it down (no matter if its too thick/too thin, just to get rid of their solvents)
  3. Add a shitload (well, a couple of grams per liter) of methylene blue and gentian violet
  4. Add your favourite solvent (i prefer a combination of xylene/ethyl acetate, cheap and does the trick) too preferred consistency

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:-D :-D check this mop i found last nite..... u can get em in auto stores or wallmart.

 

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the only issue so far is that theres only one hole for the paint, its directly in the middle of the mop... im jus gonna try drilling two small holes on the other two sides so the ink will fill the sponge evenly.... n i may end up having to stuff somthin down in the slit to stop it from dripping out too much..

 

lemme know if you guys try this n have any ideas

 

 

one

 

 

 

 

oh yeah.. Question: what do you use at your house to try your ink on when youre tryin to mix a perfect batch? ive used almost every bit of wall space/flat surfaces in my outside hallway... lol

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^^In my opinion, nothing is more accurate, to test on, than painted metal, or flat dense plastic.

 

You can get metal for painting signs on. That works the best because you can just keep using it. If the surface gets used all up, just buff it down, or paint it like the real thing.

 

Or you can do what I do...

Use the dumpsters and doorways in alleys

to test out new markers and ink.

 

Helps if you live in an area that has lots of alleys.

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Man, mixing aluminium bucket paint paint and thinner is like the easiest trick you can do, think just a second man: thinner do 2 things: make your paint drippier AND more opacity. Less thinner per quantity of paint do 2 things: More opacity AND a less good flow (paint is thicker so less drips, and the drips comin' out of it are less good-lookin'...)

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