INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD

[ader47]

surely pilot ink (as the garvey got buffed) isnt stronger than nero & garvey like in that test??

or maybe im missing something..

[OMEN TWO]

I still think Garvey is the toughest staining ink ever made.

Now, Garvey will sometimes repel (cool tag name) on a few surfaces.

For example, I tried to tag with my mini that had garvey on a magazine that was really glossy and it repelled like rain drops (I am sure a Garvey user has had this happen)

But, I took my Marsh mini and I had no repelling.

 

But then, I used my Garvey Mini on this painted metal bathroom stall and I used my Marsh Mini on the other side the next day. The stall already had tags on it from pilots and paint markers, etc.;

 

A week later all the tags were buffed. But, they could not even smudge the Garvey at all.

So, it depends on the type of surface you use it on...That goes for everything.

The Garvey bonded to this orange metal...the metal was shiny so the tags were shiny.

I was there last Thursday and the tags were still on the stall. They painted over the tags on the white wall in the stall. But, you could still see my tag clear as day...they need to use a primer coat first to remove a garvey tag from a painted wall.

I think the only reason they did not paint the orange metal stalls. Is because, if they did, they would have to use a primer coat then repaint it.

But, if they did that...then any marker would stick to the stalls...Regardless of the brand. If it is regular dye type ink...it will seep into the enamel paint and they would have to keep repainting the stalls over and over again.

The plastic panels on the buses and on the bus shelters behind the glass where they put ads on is not Garvey proof. If you use garvey on those type of plastics. IT WILL NOT COME OFF.

Someone broke the glass on a bus shelter and I removed the ad and did a large tag on the plastic. They could not buff it, they put a new ad on top of the plastic and put a new piece of glass and you can see my tag behind the glass when the light goes on at night and during the day too. But, you can really see it at night...Talk about permanent...that is the best place for a tag.

Because, it is in lights behind glass....Lol

[chumbawumba]

Thats awesome..

 

Hey Omen wasn't that graff thing on the 24th? How was it?

[silkk]

Originally posted by OMEN TWO

I still think Garvey is the toughest staining ink ever made.

Now, Garvey will sometimes repel (cool tag name) on a few surfaces.

For example, I tried to tag with my mini that had garvey on a magazine that was really glossy and it repelled like rain drops (I am sure a Garvey user has had this happen)

But, I took my Marsh mini and I had no repelling.

 

But then, I used my Garvey Mini on this painted metal bathroom stall and I used my Marsh Mini on the other side the next day. The stall already had tags on it from pilots and paint markers, etc.;

 

A week later all the tags were buffed. But, they could not even smudge the Garvey at all.

So, it depends on the type of surface you use it on...That goes for everything.

The Garvey bonded to this orange metal...the metal was shiny so the tags were shiny.

I was there last Thursday and the tags were still on the stall. They painted over the tags on the white wall in the stall. But, you could still see my tag clear as day...they need to use a primer coat first to remove a garvey tag from a painted wall.

I think the only reason they did not paint the orange metal stalls. Is because, if they did, they would have to use a primer coat then repaint it.

But, if they did that...then any marker would stick to the stalls...Regardless of the brand. If it is regular dye type ink...it will seep into the enamel paint and they would have to keep repainting the stalls over and over again.

The plastic panels on the buses and on the bus shelters behind the glass where they put ads on is not Garvey proof. If you use garvey on those type of plastics. IT WILL NOT COME OFF.

Someone broke the glass on a bus shelter and I removed the ad and did a large tag on the plastic. They could not buff it, they put a new ad on top of the plastic and put a new piece of glass and you can see my tag behind the glass when the light goes on at night and during the day too. But, you can really see it at night...Talk about permanent...that is the best place for a tag.

Because, it is in lights behind glass....Lol

 

to add to this garvey take a why to fully dry like i tested is on meytal let it dry for 24 hours then used nail polish remove came of easy but i left a lil on there then a week later tryed to get the rest of wouldent come off at all

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by chumbawumba

Thats awesome..

 

Hey Omen wasn't that graff thing on the 24th? How was it?

 

 

My wife and I took a drive downtown and the first person I bumped into was Phase 2. He looked like he was pushing 50!

The place was full of people with cameras and writers and browsers, then in one corner of the gallery were my people. Min and I had not seen each other in over 10 years. I did not recognize him at first because he got so fat and was balding. When we hugged each other we talked privately for about 30 minutes and then we wondered back to the corner. Kel, Shock, IZ, Stay High & Dead Leg, Danger 59, Nicer, Sec, Boe, Tracy 168, Zeph, Blade, Quik, Doze...Even Lady Pink (she had gray streaks in her hair...Lol) was there and many more writers that I never met but heard of, were also there. Some writers I never heard of at all were there...some were coming in from Pa. and different states around the city.

The writers I was hanging with were the ones that I grew up with.

I basically stayed with the RTW bunch from Broadway at the show.

I exchanged a lot of phone numbers.

But, my main reason for going was to hook up with Min One (Wayne).

We are going to hook up more often now we know each others phone number.

 

Crash, Duro and some other writers were able to sell canvass to art collectors. Then a few writers I never heard of were able to sell canvass as well.

After about an hour and a half, I decided that I had enough.

But, it was good to see filmier faces and make new friends as well.

They did not let us tag on the walls.

 

However, they put up a piece of painted dry wall for use to sign as we came in.

I brought a mini flow pen. I was careful not to let it drip on other tags.

They had a few pilots for people to use...even non-writers tagged (toys) on it.

 

But, it was more of a money making thing. Drinks were $7 a pop and a cup of beer was $5.

Duro put the whole thing together.

 

Now, that I have phone numbers for a few of my old school friends I won't be going to a show for a long time to come.

 

It was really hard to find a parking space, we had to park like 5 blocks away.

But, all in all...I am glad we went.:king:

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by silkk

to add to this garvey take a why to fully dry like i tested is on meytal let it dry for 24 hours then used nail polish remove came of easy but i left a lil on there then a week later tryed to get the rest of wouldent come off at all

 

You hit the nail on the head Brother.

 

Some people only wait a short while before they do the buff test.

Like anything, you have to let it set in and dry to the core. The longer you leave it...the harder is to buff.

For example.

When you use a paint type marker...you have to really let it dry like for over 24 hours...till it is set.

Because, paint markers are almost like regular paint, so if you use enamel paint. It takes quite a while to dry till it is ready to walk on.

Like a gray paint on a floor for outside use. You can't walk on it ten minutes after you spread the paint. So, if you try to buff it...of course it will buff easier then if it is fully set.

 

Good point homes.

[HellMyNameIs]

omen looks like u had a good time seeing all your old friends, wow i wish i could have one of those gathering once i get older with all the people i paint with now...i just got done with the all city book and i read min one's interview with paul 107 he seems like a realy cool guy i wish i can talk to him and mybe get some advice stuff that will help me later on. well my question was u know with the bucket paint i found some oil based primer will primer work as well as the regular paint...its dunn edwars and the color is like white.

[chumbawumba]

BUFF TEST

 

The surface is metal, I used a Curve cologne tin. I gave the inks a little more then an hour to dry. The buffer is called Oops or some shit like that.

 

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestRedPilotInkVioletGarveyBefore.jpg'>

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestRedPilotInkVioletGarveyAfter.jpg'>

 

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestVioletGarveyBefore.jpg'>

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestVioletGarveyAfter.jpg'>

 

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestMarsh_OTRGriffinBefore.jpg'>

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestMarshOTRGriffinAfter.jpg'>

 

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestBluePlotInkBefore.jpg'>

http://img55.photobucket.com/albums/v167/phake/BuffTestBluePilotInkAfter.jpg'>

 

From the conclusion of the tests, I would have to reccomend OTR Hard to Buff, Violet Garvey, and a mixture of Red Pilot Ink and Violet Garvey. The inks will have different effects on different surfaces for example I have had Griffin stain like a bitch on a painted surface, and I have had OTR Hard to Buff come off with no stain at all on a painted surface. If your hitting metal, definitley invest in some of those inks if you want it to last. I still can't get over how hard the Red Pilot Ink and Violet Garvey stained.. I am definitley going to try adding that to other inks as well. I hope this helped.

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by HellMyNameIs

omen looks like u had a good time seeing all your old friends, wow i wish i could have one of those gathering once i get older with all the people i paint with now...i just got done with the all city book and i read min one's interview with paul 107 he seems like a realy cool guy i wish i can talk to him and mybe get some advice stuff that will help me later on. well my question was u know with the bucket paint i found some oil based primer will primer work as well as the regular paint...its dunn edwars and the color is like white.

 

Well, to be honest, everything MIN knows I know.

In fact any old school New York city writer knows just about everything a person needs to know about real graffiti writing.

All this making ink out of this and that is kind of a new thing, I guess becaue nowadays you really can't walk into a store and buy real graffiti stuff at low prices.

When the trains became graff proof. Most of the "art" stores that sold Graff stuff went out of business. That is one of the reasons Flomaster ink went out of business and why Marsh does not make 100 different colors of ink anymore. There is not a huge market for it anymore.

NYC has 10 million people and there were thosands upon thousands of graff writers during the late 70's up until the mid to late 80's.

Even it is now a world wide thing...I don't think a graffiti store will make enough money to even pay the rent of the store selling markers in small towns or small cities. That is why the net has graff sites for supplies...they can sell their stuff world wide.

But, even the online stores are not making a large amount of money...they just get by.

 

Back in the days, we really did not mix up paint to make ink or do the things you guys are doing today.

We had a few stores that sold every color ink you can think of, weather it by dye type or paint type.

They sold the best markers and the ban roll ons were made out of glass and were perfect to make mops out of.

The two major brands were Flomaster (out of business now) and Marsh.

Nowadays for some reason Marsh stopped making all those colors.

Anyhow, we did not have time to mix up stuff unless it was to get a different color or something.

All the ink was permanent enough as where they could not buff it on most surfaces. Because, the insides were painted enamel or plastic panel.

Spray paint is the big money maker nowadays. Because, you can use it on anything and it takes alot of cans to do a burner and you really can't rack paint in major cities because, it is locked up.

If you live in the sticks or the hills you would have a better chance of racking paint. But, how long will that last...till they start to lock it up.

 

@Chumb.

 

It seems Garvey is the best...you really don't need to mix it with anything.

Apply it thickly with a mop and let it dry...Then it will really stick. Because, you are just using a pen/marker that does not pour it on thick. So, imagine what I juicy mop would do with Garvey in it...Alot more comes out making the tag thicker with ink:king:

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by BobotheHobo

what is garveys consistancy..like how drippy is it?

 

It is drippy as hell....it drips just like any other ink. The only difference....it is high power industrial ink.

It is not your average dye type ink.

It comes in blue, black, red, green and violet.

But, the violet is the all time favorite color and it stains the hardest. I have a mop in every color, except green and it drips down to the floor...depending if you want it that way, it is how you adjust the nib.

My red garvey mop looks like blood when it writes and drips like a bitch.

Once it dries, it has that bright deep blood look and almost impossible to buff.

[CEOCAT]

Originally posted by rubbish heap

The other ink recipe threads are dying, and nobody wants to read through 10 pages to find what they want. Therefore I decided to start a new one. This thread is intended for those who don't know much about ink to start learning. I'm giving it my best shot to answer all of your questions.

 

Now, lets take a primer in Ink 101.

 

INK VS. PAINT

There's two main things you can use as a base for your recipe: inks/dyes, or bucket paint. Ink and bucket paint do not mix with each other.

 

If you're into getting custom colors that no one else has, get yourself some small containers of bucket paint. Two recommended brands are Rustoleum and One-Shot. While most people have heard of Rusto and know of it for its thickness, One Shot is less well known but has a lot of nice colors and comes out super glossy or metallic. Sign painters use it for their work; it's tough shit and it contains lead, so be careful. Bucket paint is not as permanent as a lot of inks, and really does not stain too well at all, but it usually will not weather away quickly and is still slightly hard to buff. Make sure you get oil-based. You can't put paint in most markers, so it's recommended that you put it in a mop, preferably a Kiwi. If you want more drips, be sure to thin out the paint with mineral spirits. Do NOT thin with xylene if your mop is plastic, as xylene eats plastic away.

 

Onto the inks. If you're into shit that stains hard, love the colors black and/or violet, and want your shit to last long and sink deep into the surface, this is the shit for you. Pretty much every ink is alcohol based, as is leather dye. Marsh ink is about the most well known in the US. In my experiences, it's not that much different from Pilot ink, though a little more expensive and slightly harder to buff (but it's not going to make much of a difference). Anyways, ink looks good on a wall, flows well through the marker, and is relatively hard to buff, but usually won't stain hard or leave a ghost. Now, on to leather dye. This is the shit when it comes to nice colors, leaving a nasty stain, and being some of the hardest shit to buff. So why don't you just use leather dye as ink and leave out the Marsh/Pilot ink? Well, truth is, it looks like fucking water color paint when applied to a wall, and it doesn't flow as well. You gotta mix it with ink. Some popular brands are Griffin, which you can find at Walgreens, and Fiebing's. The hardest staining colors made by Fiebing's are violet and red. Be very careful when handling this shit - if it drips anywhere in the house, it's damn hard to clean off. Now on to brake fluid. Why do people use brake fluid in there recipes ? Brake fluid is corrossive and eats through paint and into the wall, kind of like what etch does to glass, except not as permanent. Anyways, it's good stuff. You can find it at Walgreens, also. Make sure you get DOT3 and don't add too much into your recipe.

 

Now, the recipes.

 

NUMBER ONE : HARD STAINING HOME MADE INK

Get a jar. Put in either Pilot ink or Marsh as your base, and add some Griffin, less than or equal to the amount of Pilot. Now get some Fiebing's leather dye, and add it to the batch, preferably red or purple, as they stain the hardest. Next, get some brake fluid, and give a generous amount - not too little, but definitely not too much as it will affect the flow. Mix that shit around. You can also try boiling them together and then using a thinner, as they'll thicken when heated. Personally, I've never tried heating / boiling any of my inks. If you want, you can try adding Gentian Violet or Methylene Blue (the additive).

 

Next, put it in your marker. Let's pretend you have a Pilot, since they're the easiest to refill and one of the best markers around. Simply unscrew the top, and drop some ink in there until it's slightly overflowing above the cotton. Now, screw the top back on, open the marker and let the ink drop through the nib and land back into the jar. This will get the nib nice and juicey. You can also put this into a mop. This shit is going to stain hard and leave a ghost once its buffed, so the only way to really get rid of it is paint over it (and certain things just don't get painted over, signs for instance).

 

NUMBER TWO : HOME MADE KRINK

This ones for homemade Krink. Krink is a recipe made by KR from New York ; you can buy his shit off http://www.fourthehardway.com or get more info at http://www.krink.com . He charges 15 bucks ; if you want to know the exact proportions to the recipe, buy some and let the ingrediants settle over time and seperate. Anyways, this is some of the easiest shit to make yourself at home. First, get some Rusto Aluminum paint. Its nice and silver. Next get some Paint thinner. Mix it to whatever proportion you want - the more thinner, the more drippy. You can also add a little bit of brake fluid, for staining power, and aluminum dust for shines.

 

CHAPSTICK MARKER RECIPE

This is a recipe I typed awhile back in the Tools of the Trade thread.

 

http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/1/30857/p/586256_1848702380118416111_vl.jpg'>

WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

- Chapstick container.

- Pilot ink, or whatever you prefer.

- A candle and matches.

- A felt chalk board eraser.

- An eyedropper (comes with Pilot ink).

 

1. Get the chapstick container, empty out the chapstick and clean out the container.

 

2. Melt some wax into it from the candle, so that the bottom is sealed and won't leak any ink.

 

3. Put in your ink of choice with the eyedropper. i used pilot because it's cheap and flows fine.

 

3. Get the felt eraser. Rip off one of the strips. cut it about 1/4. Shove that bit into the container, just make sure you can get the cap back on.

 

4. Finally, get the eyedropper back out and drip some ink onto the nib until it becomes juicy. After that you're ready to go. When the nib gets dry, rejuice it with the eye dropper and ink.

 

 

Any questions are welcome. I'm constantly answering them and editing the front page to contain more information.

 

 

Vis-ine eyedroppers work better casue you can skip the entire wax step.

[chumbawumba]

The only site that I know of that sells Nero does not have it in stock, but cop your Marsh at Urban Designz.

[rubbish heap]

Originally posted by OMEN TWO

How many decent tags can you get from one filled chapstick marker??

 

 

I know, he could have cut down the quote like 98%:mad:

 

CEOCAT, click http://www.12ozprophet.com/forum/editpost....&postid=1608942 and edit that shit.

 

OMEN, chapstick markers usually give out 5-10 good tags, depending on the surface you're hitting of course. that said, theyre nice because they're so small but not that practical. they would be a good idea for transit though... small and easy to conceal.

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by rubbish heap

OMEN, chapstick markers usually give out 5-10 good tags, depending on the surface you're hitting of course. that said, theyre nice because they're so small but not that practical. they would be a good idea for transit though... small and easy to conceal.

 

Well, if that is the case...I would rather use a mini "OTR Type" flowpen.

It is pretty small, it holds 5 to 6 more times ink as a chapstick container. The nib is wider and it can be drippy if you want it to be.

 

That is just me.

Because, I carry a mini flow everywhere I go and I can stash it behind my belt buckle or the cuff of my jacket sleeve after doing a tag.

[rinse]

Originally posted by YAES

Been I have watched after aqui and everybody it almost likes ink nero, now in Spain we are sicken to use it by the bad thing that is... and coverall so that when buffing, does not leave almost ghost...

NERO IS DIRTY WATER:yuck:

YAES that is the most broke ass sentiment i have ever read, but i love you for it.

what do you think of corio?

[YAES]

I have always preferred to mix the dirty water with corio but....is not either well, I do not believe that a red exists that is permanent that is single a dream...

http://www.tarrago.com/imatges/prprf.gif'>

this ink I used for many years, has been thousand times better than inks than ahi in the market right now..

[OMEN TWO]

I have been getting some cool effects with postal stickers.

I have been using a marsh 99 flowpen (the all metal marker) with garvey on the stickers.

The stickers are a bitch to come off most surfaces...But, for the ones that were removed...there was an imprint of my tag...sort of like a press on tattoo. So, when the sticker is removed somehow the tag from the sticker stays on the surface the sticker was on...being it was garvey...they could not buff the tag.

I have never seen this happen in my life. I made up the stickers days in advance. So, the ink was dry. I have a hunch that the remover they use to take off the sticker makes the ink seep through the sticker and on to the surface.

I noticed this today when I was at the metro north station, I saw where my sticker used to be and a tag...just like if I used a marker to write it directly on the wall.

It was on a ticket machine and it was on a shellacked stained wood wall.

I think it is cool, because when they remove the sticker, the tag is still on the surface not buffed.

Just like a temp tattoo. But, the tags are not temp...Lol

[OMEN TWO]

Originally posted by ODS-1

What I think he is trying to say is: "I have watched on here and almost everyone on here likes nero, and in spain they don't like to use it because after the buff it leaves no ghost. He says it is like dirty water.

I wonder where he is getting it.

Because, I have never seen it in stores.

So, if he or they are getting it on the net...why not get marsh or something if it sucks so bad for them?

 

If they are getting in the stores...It might be counterfeit Nero.

Isn't Nero a spanish company or something?

I personally think it is way over priced. I would rather spend $5 more to get twice as much marsh or black garvey...if black is what you are looking for.

Cause, it is like $10 and change for a little less than half a pint of nero/zero.

Garvey and Marsh is only $15 and change for an entire pint.

[HOVIE]

nero d'inferno is an italian company....and what is marsh like??..i heard it was pretty thick...i wanna get some though cos ive seem a oclock tag in what i think is red marsh and it looks frikkin sexy

[HOVIE]

HERES what i was talking about....any ideas on what ink this is would be appreciated...

[YAES]

I never to pay but of 10euros by one ink, to pay but is of nerd's, but one ink nonsingle is made up of ink is necessary to add to him but things... tag of o'clock is not ink I think ke can be diluted painting or another thing, now in Spain we have inks similar to Marsh ink, with heavy texture but with alcohol base, for example one of them is RUMBAR but it agrees to throw aniline, to give him a dark color to him but.

[YAES]

http://www.mactra.com.br/images/global/betol.jpg'>

this diluted works very well in mop

[HellMyNameIs]

?

 

alrite i took omen's word and ordered off artprimo...whoa i thought this was a tight ass site turns out its fuckin wack!....i ordered a miniwide,ultra wide,a jar of 4 oz ink....this is what i thought i was gona get a jar of 4oz ink black a mini wide with the original nib a ultra wide with the original nib both them in grey...this is what i get a dirty jar with black marsh...a black ultra wide and a grey miniwide...heres the problem the mini wide didnt even come with a nib and the ultra wide came with the biggest piece of shit nib i have ever sceen it looked like a fuckin piece of clay shaped into a nib it was dry rough and hard didnt even rip it had white stains of paint all over and it fuckin sucked...so next time u order off art primo think of what ur getting into...cuz my first inpreasion is a last.

[OMEN TWO]

Re: ?

 

Originally posted by HellMyNameIs

alrite i took omen's word and ordered off artprimo...whoa i thought this was a tight ass site turns out its fuckin wack!....i ordered a miniwide,ultra wide,a jar of 4 oz ink....this is what i thought i was gona get a jar of 4oz ink black a mini wide with the original nib a ultra wide with the original nib both them in grey...this is what i get a dirty jar with black marsh...a black ultra wide and a grey miniwide...heres the problem the mini wide didnt even come with a nib and the ultra wide came with the biggest piece of shit nib i have ever sceen it looked like a fuckin piece of clay shaped into a nib it was dry rough and hard didnt even rip it had white stains of paint all over and it fuckin sucked...so next time u order off art primo think of what ur getting into...cuz my first inpreasion is a last.

 

Holy Shit!

 

I can't believe that happened to you, that fucking sucks and I am pissed off at art primo for doing you like that.

I bought like a dozen miniwides, all came with the old skool nibs and I had no problem at all.

I got close with one of the people that runs that site and I asked them to yank out a whole bunch of the old skool nibs and sell them to me. They told me that the new nibs are not cream color and are stiff as hell.

They said they would switch the old skool nibs and put in the new stiff nibs and sell them that way.

Now, I have used the new stiff nib and I was able to really break it in very well and it is just as soft as the old skool nibs.

I never got those 4oz marsh tins. They must have got them at a discount because they were messed up.

 

I am going to copy what you said and send it to the owner/or the person in charge of sales.

I know for a fact this is the first time anyone has been truly disappointed with art primo (maybe the second time).

But, because, I recommended it I will write them right now too see if they can make good on your order.

The person I buy from at art primo said she has a bunch of the old skool nibs, she sells to certain people upon request.

 

I'm really sorry that happened brother.

You can break in that hard nib by putting it in your ultra and take a very sturdy large needle and start to poke the top part of the Nib. At first it will be hard then the needle will go in deeper and deeper till the nib is soft and flexible. It will take a little time. But, you can make it just a good as the old skool nibs...even better. I was bombing with the new type nib today in the Bronx and had good results.

Also, they don't make old skool nibs anymore and they stopped making miniwides all together because the machine that produced them broke down for good and it is too expensive to fix. But the ultrawide machine is still cranking out ultras.

They have been using different color plastics to make up for the bullshit nibs they put in them nowadays.

 

edit

 

They use this hard felt and cut it out to fit the ultra...But, it can be softened.

I got an ultrawide from urban designs and it was blue and it had that big white stiff nib....just like you got ( I think it was what you got, white big and stiff)

I asked them to write me back and I said they need to give you an old school nib for your mini...they don't have or make old skool nibs for ultras anymore.

 

But, I wrote and see what they can do.

 

 

On another note...Garvey makes really good red ink.

[OMEN TWO]

Re: ?

 

Originally posted by HellMyNameIs

alrite i took omen's word and ordered off artprimo...whoa i thought this was a tight ass site turns out its fuckin wack!....i ordered a miniwide,ultra wide,a jar of 4 oz ink....this is what i thought i was gona get a jar of 4oz ink black a mini wide with the original nib a ultra wide with the original nib both them in grey...this is what i get a dirty jar with black marsh...a black ultra wide and a grey miniwide...heres the problem the mini wide didnt even come with a nib and the ultra wide came with the biggest piece of shit nib i have ever sceen it looked like a fuckin piece of clay shaped into a nib it was dry rough and hard didnt even rip it had white stains of paint all over and it fuckin sucked...so next time u order off art primo think of what ur getting into...cuz my first inpreasion is a last.

 

Here is the reply I got from art-primo

 

I appreciate you promoting our site! As far as the guy who ordered we never received any email from him. If he had asked we would have been more than happy to give him a refund.

 

The Ultra Wides only come with the stiff nibs so there would have been no way to replace them. For the mini wides the last boxes we ordered of them came with no nibs. It clearly states on our site that the Mini Wides do not come with a nib.

 

I am in the process of working out a deal with a distributor to order some nibs, but it will be pretty costly. I am still wondering if it is worth it to order them because if we do we would have to charge $4 per nib. Do you think that would be way to much? I don't like having expensive stuff on our site because we try to keep all of our prices low. But I wonder if it is better to have the nibs for $4 or not have them at all.

 

Tell the guy to send us an email we can give him a refund on any thing he returns unused and he exchange the colors on the Ultra Wides if that is what he wants. I can understand that he frusterated. No one likes to feel cheated. Our website is all about honesty building great relationships with our customers. If he emails me I will do everything I can to help him out.

 

On another note... How was the graff show you went to? I have been pretty busy lately with the website. I spend all my free time painting now that the weather has gotten better. I wish I had a digital camera so I could send you some flicks.

 

How is all going with you? How is Min doing? Thanks for the email I appreciate you informing about stuff like this. I really want to make sure all of our customers are happy. I feel very bad when some one has an experience like that. Let me know if you have any advice. I respect your opinions a lot!

Hope to hear from you soon!

-Mari

 

So, please write Mari at cheapartsupplies@hotmail.com.

Tell her that Dave (me) is the one trying to help you...OK?

I hope you get this resolved.

[chumbawumba]

I was talking to the guy on AIM about it and everytime I told him to email them and tell them what happened he immediantly responded with "HAHAHAHAHAH". Either way, I have ordered miniwides of Artprimo with no problem. It came in 2 days and I think this site is going to be the best mail order once they get those OTR Markers and finish the line of Belton paint. I believe they are getting Montana, as well. I must say this put me down a bit, but I will continue to order off of their website because it has done nothing but satisfied me so far.

[YAES]

By Internet I doubt that you can buy, is of very good quality..made in españa..this many formats of sale from less of a liter to carafe of 20 ls, 30, 40..etc the

the mark is TARRAGÓ

[HellMyNameIs]

i guess artprimo is just one of those sites where everything is good and then once they mess up and they had to mess up on me...i mean im just gona try and soften up the nib i gotta make shit work if everyone just complained bout everything everything would be shit...i mean i cant refund the ink since half of it is gone and im just gona order some nibs off four the hard way for both the markers....thanks omen i respect you for being so tight and not letting shit go like other people i mean you could have just clearly told me "to bad kid nothing is perfect" and just droped the topic but you acutally contacted them and tryed to handel it...thanks man...

[YAES]

Originally posted by rinse

TARRAGO' is a leather dye? i hope you mix that with some dirty water or some other ink. dyes dont look so hot on their own.

Tarragó is similar to edding ink but always I add to another one ink to give but color, for example dirty water, corio or to rumbar or other inks that exist in the Spanish market which ahi one is very rare... aqui ke we called piluleta(lolypop) by their scent that is very similar hehehe

they even that they are good inks of here, me I like to prove those that you use...

[rinse]

UNRELATED AFTER THOUGHT:

YAES, do you know of SAVATH&SAVALAS or PREFUSE 73?