The project car thread

[T4M*]

^^

Dope. Can't wait to see it in person. I'm assuming this one has red interior.  When it gets plates I'll check it out.

 

I had a 1987 Buick Regal Blue for high school with a low rider look to it. Sold it for College money and got me a 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4. The Buick was a nice ride too, and comfortable.  At first,  I didn't know where the gas tank was, my reaction was "I'm being pranked" lol

 

Some old guy laughed at me and schoold' me where it was.

 

What they look like.

 

[mr.yuck]

@T4M* haha hind sight. You could of hung on to that regal and sold it for retirement money. I like buicks a lot. 81 LeSabre I bought for $100. Was probably a murder whip. 2001 century. 73 centurion was awesome. 73 duece and a quarter I never had shipped. She was just a shell I paid a few hundo for. Lol. Sheesh. Project cars are expensive as fuck anymore. MFers be like 15k for their rust bucket basket case. 

 

 

[ndv]

17 minutes ago, mr.yuck said:

@T4M* haha hind sight. You could of hung on to that regal and sold it for retirement money. I like buicks a lot. 81 LeSabre I bought for $100. Was probably a murder whip. 2001 century. 73 centurion was awesome. 73 duece and a quarter I never had shipped. She was just a shell I paid a few hundo for. Lol. Sheesh. Project cars are expensive as fuck anymore. MFers be like 15k for their rust bucket basket case. 

 

 

 

One of the things that makes classic/project cars so expensive these days is the inflation over time that it costs for replacement parts, and if you're wanting OEM or Original refurbished hard to find parts to stay period correct, the expensive side is trying to find a specialist that can correctly restore a part and when you do find that person, you're paying today's rates.  

 

When I was looking into getting a to do list for my Volvo a fre years ago, pre covid.  I was sitting around $8k+, then I had to consider the tools I didn't have to do the job properly and on time, renting vs. buying.  Buying was cheaper specialy on a classic car.  But the tools put me added another 2k, so I was sitting at 10 and that was not everything.  I had to factor in fluids, supplies and such, so I figured another 2k.  I was sitting at 12k.  Then I factored in that I do not have a lift so working on car with out a lift for suspension work for the entire car was gonna be tough getting at places all on top of little to no exsperience working on the Volvo, i was gonna learn as i go and i do not have the proper covered facility to work out of the elemnets.  All on all I figured I would have been sitting around 14k.  

 

I opted for a 3rd generation Volvo specialist in my area and yeah it did cost me 16k for an extensive amount of work that most of the mechanical components were replaced with oem or better quality parts.  I mean to this day it sounds expensive for what the car was brand new 30 years ago which was 24k I think.   But I did pay for post covid rates, the right tools, proper facility, and someone who immediately knew what needed to be done, what parts were wrong on the car and that is something I probably could've have done with just a Haynes manual and a Jack.

 

This is why I think a lot of people do not consider when they just go off and buy a rust bucket thinking it's gon a be a fun project which blinds them on the actual build price.  One thing I have learned is stay away from Pelican Auto Parts, Rock Auto, and there's another one I can't think of right now that if you buy the oem, it's gonna cost you, but why they claim they are cheaper than brick and motor, is because they sell you China "oem" 🙄 parts.  Which will work fine at first but fail all the time and you will be back buying another one.   So, it's always best to buy the oem period correct parts, they cost more because inflation over time, but the parts are updated with current quality/tech.  

 

Speaking of working on a car, I still need to start on mine soon. 

 

 

[T4M*]

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