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aren't elmer's painters acrylic? i think those are alright but i also know nothing. what's wrong with it? it dries quicker than oil, no? also why do people like pentel white so much? i know everyone here uses the small broad ones, but i have a few of the extra fine variety and they are terrible.

 

also, for all of you who say that decos are good for blackbooking, doesn't oil paint degrade/yellow the paper over time?

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aren't elmer's painters acrylic? i think those are alright but i also know nothing. what's wrong with it? it dries quicker than oil, no? also why do people like pentel white so much? i know everyone here uses the small broad ones, but i have a few of the extra fine variety and they are terrible.

 

also, for all of you who say that decos are good for blackbooking, doesn't oil paint degrade/yellow the paper over time?

 

the fine ones suck, the thick ones are nice

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no it doesnt effect plastic...it cpomes in plastic itself. and only use liek 3 drops, only in ink, no paint.

it does do something, it slows the drying time, which allows the dyes in ink more time to sink into the surface and stain more.

 

you want your ink to dry as slow as possible unless you think its guna get buffed soon

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No homie, you're the one making it complicated, a) by adding unnecessary shit, and b) by telling kids to add brake fluid, which means the next 4 pages will have kids like the one I just told no and they just keep asking.

 

I mean holy shit you people don't even read a few pages before askin about brake fluid? Or you dont even go to the search and type in DOT 3 or brake fluid?

 

We're gonna have to like make it mandatory at the first post of every new page just put

DO NOT PUT BRAKE FLUID IN ANY INK OR PAINT.

 

lolwut?

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i know what im doing,

and im telling you if it takes longer to dry, a smooth metal is

not going to absorb it anymore than it already has.

 

if your ink is being taken by the surface its too thick,

or even too thin, possibly the wall has a protective coating.

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Yo. I just got a uni paint and it openeded it up and this bitch was only like half full. I can only get these shits online and im not sure what to refill it up with that will still be consistent with whats in it and mix in. Do em dirty, smash? Rusto black is a bitch to make not streaky or thick when mixing with just paint thinner so id rather buy something thats good to go.

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i know what im doing,

and im telling you if it takes longer to dry, a smooth metal is

not going to absorb it anymore than it already has.

 

if your ink is being taken by the surface its too thick,

or even too thin, possibly the wall has a protective coating.

 

yea, i realize bare metal cannot be stained...i mean like painted surfaces or shit like that. w.e. im not goign to argue, if you want more proof that it works pm me haha

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there is no safe "glass eater." Every one of them has some whatever ingredients, and then the main ingredient HydroFluoric Acid. The most popular glass etch is Armour, which contains 1% hydrofluoric acid. hydrofluoric acid is dangerous, even the ONE PERCENT form of it can cause severe burns and medical problems. You can have serious heart failure from exposure to this shit.

 

ohh fuck,

i wanted to post about the glass etching, but after reading this thread and shit, ive noticced that shit is wack,

 

and definatly not worth the effort, but there are some SICK ink recipies i am going to have to try out!

 

:)

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ohh fuck,

i wanted to post about the glass etching, but after reading this thread and shit, ive noticced that shit is wack,

 

and definatly not worth the effort, but there are some SICK ink recipies i am going to have to try out!

 

:)

 

Hydrofluoric acid burn

Hydrofluoric_Acid_Burn.jpg

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