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Guest HESHIANDET

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ive got a fancy japanese frame, it's all lugged and sweet.

 

 

 

oh wait, i mean, i got a shitty taiwanese frame, it's all seem welded and ugly.

ive also got spray painted wheels and a seat that's worth more than my frame. but it's a track frame, so people don't think im a poser riding a conversion. and i took all the decals off, so people think its some sick custom shit. the electrical tape helps to make it look even more custom. i dont have any spoke cards though, cause i dont ride in alleycats. i'm pretty much above all that shit.

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Seeks,

 

That and the alleys here would kill someone if they tried to ride across them. Potholes, cobblestones, half paved/half dirt, and sink holes, plus grease from restaraunt dumpster overflow.

 

Come to think about it you could probably do a sick cyclocross event based on the alleys in this town. Call it the "I hope you have replacement rims and a chiropractor" crit.

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yo man if this isn't the smallest town ever... seen you rolling.... you might want to sell that thing and get a bike THAT FITS YOU.... I know, I know... you really wanted a trick NJS frame... shhh... its ok.... shhhh...

 

yeah not too surprised. haven't really had much of a problem with fit to be honest, riding all the way in the drops a la alpenrose velodrome style works out fine for me, haven't had any real serious ass/back/wrist pain from doing 10 or 15 mile rides either. it's a 53, i know atleast 1 messenger about my height that makes a living riding something the same size if not 1cm smaller so i don't seem to be the only person without complaints. a little smaller is what i'm used to and like to run with anyway, little more twitchy and less boaty, the way i like it.

 

you're right though, i didn't want a steamroller/mercier/bare knuckle/pake/bullshity "road frame with track drop outs and single butted cro-mo marked up 500% in price", so you got me there. didn't get that frame for too bad of a deal either.

 

you seem to know a bit about bikes though, what do you ride?

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Smaller frames seem to be the way in the Pro ranks as well. I guess it puts them at a more aerodynamic position when they're in the drops. But I'm sure their bikes are so customized in their fit that a smaller frame is fine for them. I still think my bike is a little too big for me but I've had bike fittings from day one so I know it's the right size, bars are right, stem length is right, seat fore and aft is right, seat post height is right and even crank arm length is right. Makes a big difference to still be comfortable after a five hour ride.

 

I go with the Wobblenaught fitting because of it's aggressive settings. Though if you're at all curious you can do something similar on your own by going here : http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

 

Seriously, you should all be riding bikes that fit well. Maybe you're fine riding a bike that you know is too big or too small because you don't have any pain issues but that shit will creep up on you in due time.

 

Just a little tip from yer Uncle Joker

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I don't know but... all my wheels are radial laced and I have had no problems at all, and I beat the shit out of them often.

 

I would assume that if you're buying pre-built wheels (built by the manufacturer) that are radial laced you should be fine for your kind of riding, unless you're doing some super odd type shit with your front wheel Mr. Knievel. If you're going with custom built wheels I would be sure the person building your wheels has a massive reputation for building solid bomb-proof wheels.

 

New race report tomorrow... should be a doozy.

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yeah, my training and race wheels are radially laced. But then again i dont see bike rides as a fashion show, even though i'm willing to bet i could track stand longer then all yall fools on my 9 speed.

 

my ridley is finally built. depending on how bad im hungover tommorow i will go battle it out in the morning. my legs are finally starting to come around.

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Radial wheels are the oldest and i think the prettiest lookin pattern around. Youve gotta be a weight watching retard to be worried about shaving grams with less spokes and i guess less spokes=better aero. Laterally theyre actually stiffer than other patterns because your not crossing any spoke with another one thus bending the spokes around one another. Radial wheels are great for front wheels of a fixie. Theyre not well suited for rear wheels because of all the added forces. Youre more likely to unscrew a spoke or strip the hub flange if youre not careful.

 

If youre building the wheel yourself, its actually the easiest of the patterns to lace up. If youre building it from a wheel you already have consider the spacing between the spoke holes in your hub flange, if theyre considerably close like some 36 holes on a small-ish hub, dont use that hub because youre likely to break it. Youre also gonna need some shorter spokes. You can get a slightly stiffer wheel by threading the spoke through the flange through the outside, or through to inside if youre an aero watching retard. And also never grease the nipples when you build a radially spoked wheel.

 

 

Edit: its fuckin 3 am right now so i appologize in advance when i wake up, proof what i just typed and cant understand myself.

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