CYPRESSPILLZ Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 if yall really wanna fuck with some new shit, use paint stripper that can be de-looted to be mixed with your ink when you write on painted metal it at the paint leaving your name etched in there better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CYPRESSPILLZ Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 never make full bottles just mops.... doesn't work with markers, it usually clogs over time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THEMUTHFUKINGROUCH Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 hell nawl really BUMP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydrogenated Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 rubbing alcohol and pens are not strong enough to fuck with the buff anymore This is true but that's why you should add staining additives or plastics industry dyes to your ink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeahnation Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 rubbing alcohol and pens are not strong enough to fuck with the buff anymore Nothing is strong enough to fuck with the buff. Ever. If somebody wants to make it so they don't see your tag anymore, they will do so. The only times a tag "survives" the buff is whenever the person trying to remove your tag doesn't care enough to remove it completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anti-style Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 word i gave up on this whole "buff proof" shinanagins. like yeahnations said if they want it gone it will be taken away. beat the buff by catching more tags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5t31th Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 There is a cool flouro ink that i've never used. im thinking of getting some. has anyone ever had experience with it or know more about it? http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301664_3071769.do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooskii Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 nyc ink recipe to catch wreck 1) go to rite aid/a pharmacy and rack 50-100 bic pens. 2) take the ink sticks out of the pens and cut the end with the little cotton blocking off (not the end you write with). 3) put all the cut ink sticks into a water bottle. 4)pour rubbing alcohol into the water bottle (the more alcohol the more drippy the ink will be, but fill no more than half the water bottle with alcohol. 5) shake the shit outta the water bottle till all the ink has drained out of the pen ink sticks. 6) Mix that ink with some garvey, pilot ink, marsh, etc. whatever stains hard that you can get your hands on. (purple and navy work the best, but black is fine too). 7) add some leather dye. and some additive (methylene blue preferably). 8) let it sit for a day or two, mixing occasionally. 9) take it to the streets and you know the rest. be safe & have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydrogenated Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 There is a cool flouro ink that i've never used. im thinking of getting some. has anyone ever had experience with it or know more about it? http://www.sportchalet.com/product/301664_3071769.do Not worth your time. should of been obvious to you from the description on the site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a mutant rancor Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 i just finished up my first batch of the pens and metlylated spirits. the colour is so rad but didnt have anything to mix it with but i will next time and probs add some leather dye. Is there a specific brand/colour which is best or any will do? besides the obvious same colour to what pen ink you have also i can post up pics if anyone is interested of what it looks like with methylated spirits rather than rubbing alcohol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeahnation Posted June 26, 2011 Share Posted June 26, 2011 This is the way to go: http://www.kiwicare.com/kiwimcmssite/us/products/leather/leather-dye.html And I'd love to see some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydrogenated Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 you tried the meth spirit based ink yet? I have a suspicion that its going to be real easy to remove from what ever you hit using meth spirits as a cleaner, test if you can because a lot of the buff teams will use meth spirits to remove alcohol inks.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a mutant rancor Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Totally did not think about kiwi leather dye got some of that stuff around somewhere. thanks I ll post up pics later in the week when i have more time, and ill do a buff test with methyl spirits and with some kiwi added see how it goes. even if its not as permanent with isopropyl ill make more it was fun and im not all that fussed about beating the buff all the time, i mainly see them just paint over tags, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 yeah after looking into a bit more a realised i couldn't find a percentage of it and saw the clumps so i figured that could be a reason. dammmm ill just mix the other one with a bit of pilot or garvey as apparently the meth doesnt make it stain as hard soo, adding water colors and "meth" will stain? all this shit your working out and asking then updating us on is spelled out for you here, why do you keep asking and updating rather than doing homework, go away for bit and come back with some kick as shit,just a thought also on a side note did you know they sell bulk "bic" pen ink, as in the sludge in the tubes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 This is the way to go: http://www.kiwicare.com/kiwimcmssite/us/products/leather/leather-dye.html And I'd love to see some pictures. wow kids, pull up an msds sheet on that and find out its a waist of time,you dont want something that is made to be put on as you walk out the door,that comes in plastic, you want real leather dye,(lincoln,fiebings,angle,ect.)99% comes in glass bottle, kiwi leather dyer sucks at being leather dye rubs right off, i did 200 push ups for trying that ship at the last minute, it sweats in the sun light and rubs off on everything. go to your local western or shoe repair store, you should see racks of leather dyes, and dont say isnt one in your town,there is, shoe stores in most malls have lincoln Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 you tried the meth spirit based ink yet? I have a suspicion that its going to be real easy to remove from what ever you hit using meth spirits as a cleaner, test if you can because a lot of the buff teams will use meth spirits to remove alcohol inks.. alright i am taking over for a bit here, no shit the base used for an ink will be the best choice to remove it, his ink is dyes dissolved in meth spirits, so if some one where to scrub the tag with it its a good bet that a fair amount with dissolve or be other wised removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Solid advice, but too little information. Any crystalline or powder dye additive, such as methyl violet or methylene blue, needs to dissolve in the ink. Now, the ink is usually of a colour that doesn't allow us to tell if it has dissolved properly. Adding these powders to a marker usually results in a marker that needs a serious cleaning because it gunks up the valve. So... Take a clear container -- I use erlenmyer flasks because of they're cool lab equipment and have a graduated scale. Add about 50ml to 100ml of denatured alcohol. Now, put in your 5g to 10g of additive and stop the flask. Shake or what have you until it is dissolved. A lot of times it is helpful to allow the solution to sit overnight with several shakings/mixings. Gentian Violet (crystal violet) is particularly hard to dissolve and needs to be done this way. Now, you've got some solution to add to your ink. Up the recipe and keep some on hand. Helpful, no? This way, you're adding a liquid to your ink and there's no chance of gumming it all up. Also, GV and MB get mentioned a lot, but don't forget the other violets and blues. What about malachite green? Fuschin/magenta? All good synthetic dyestuffs. Be seeing you. Close to the mark... Also, note that, as I have mentioned, Garvey is just a Basic Violet 1 ink. By adding more dye to it you really aren't accomplishing anything. However, adding an oxidiser, like the mentioned potassium permanganate, would be a boost, because the oxidiser will eat into most surfaces. Be seeing you. I've had nothing but bad luck with enamel paints. Alkyds and traditional pigment oils work best. The enamels all seem to have some kind of drying agent in them that causes them to "clot up" like crazy. Couldn't get them to flow right through a mop unless they were thinned out to the point of uselessness. Plus, all enamels seem to be cheap paints with a low pigment load... The first post (thanks for this thread Rubbish Heap, BTW) mentions 1-Shot paints, but don't overlook the Ronan Superfine Japan colours or the Ronan Bulletin colours. They're a bit cheaper sometimes and the Japan colours are amazing -- half a pint lasts forever! When it comes to thinner, there's more than mineral spirits/Stoddard Solvent, too. My thinnner mix is usually half turpentine and half Stoddard. That way, the paint doesn't dry too fast and just sit on the surface -- it has time to bond, which is what oil paints need. Post some results for your hammertone experiment. I'm curious. It would be awesome to lay up hammertone tags... Be seeing you. OK, DOT-3 is corrosive, which is different than oxidation. It's more like the action of a weak acid. That's why it takes a while for brake fluid to ghost a surface and also why some surfaces don't seem to ghost even with DOT-3. MB and GV are just methylaniline dyes. They're used as laboratory stains, to dye clothes, make ink and used to be used to make some of the older (lake) artists' pigments. However, any and all synthetic dyestuffs are not lightfast. Ever wonder why marker ink fades so fast? Well, it is because the dyes are fugitive, i.e., they fade. That's why no artists' pigments are made with them anymore. Makes one wonder why the label "permanent" is put on so many markers... However, for our purposes we only need the dye to stain the ground (the surface under the ink), since we've mixed our dyestuff with pigment ink. Most good black inks are pigment-based. Preferably carbon! That's why india ink isn't so shabby, if you mix it with dye. OTR HTB is basically an india ink and I think it looks better than just about any other marker ink, except for Montana black. Besides, as HTB illustrates, india ink can be made with alcohol instead of water. Or xylene could be used, etc. Potassium permanganate is an oxidiser that just happens to stain the shit out of just about anything... :dazed: Be seeing you. Well, for basic silver krink, you'd just need Rustoleum bucket aluminium and some thinner. Average ratio, as mentioned quite a few times, is about 1/3 thinner (what I use). Could vary with your climate, as well. Some fellow posted "don't thin more than 5%", but that's what's printed on the bucket, so take that with a grain of salt. I've fine results with 1/3rd... Now, as far as 1-Shot and Ronan paints go, if you can't find them, then you should look for something that is specifically billed as a "sign painter's paint". They're thick and brilliant and I find myself thinning sometimes more than half in order to get good mop paint. Even thinning half doesn't adulterate the colour, though. Dayglo brand is good, too, but some think that daylight fluorescent colours look retarded. I don't... :D If you can't even find Rustoleum, then buy the highest quality aluminium bucket paint you can find and use that. Stay away from metallic silver, as it doesn't look near as good. If you can get your paws on some powdered aluminium to add to your mix, then put some in. *bling* Those PearlEx pigments are nice, too. The MicroPearl and Pearl White will even feed through most markers. I haven't tried the MacroPearl in a marker, but I use it in colour mops and the effect is great. Look for them in craft and/or art supply houses. Remember OIL or ALKYD paints only! Be seeing you. .............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yeahnation Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 wow kids, pull up an msds sheet on that and find out its a waist of time,you dont want something that is made to be put on as you walk out the door,that comes in plastic, you want real leather dye,(lincoln,fiebings,angle,ect.)99% comes in glass bottle, kiwi leather dyer sucks at being leather dye rubs right off, i did 200 push ups for trying that ship at the last minute, it sweats in the sun light and rubs off on everything. go to your local western or shoe repair store, you should see racks of leather dyes, and dont say isnt one in your town,there is, shoe stores in most malls have lincoln Yo I've been watching you post on this thread for a long time and you've taught me a lot, so I'm not trying to disrespect or anything. But the reason you got caught with your shoes scuffed up most likely wasn't because of the quality of the Kiwi dye. It's meant to be put on, set overnight, reapplied, then after another overnight stay you're supposed to polish it. Granted, it may not be as high of quality as Fiebings leather dye (you could use that mess by itself), but it's still not a joke like you make it out to be. And actually that Kiwi leather dye is a great supplement to pen ink recipes because it 1. Gives body to the ink and makes it last longer (i.e., doubles the amount you have) and 2. Is a great body for a mop when the bottle is empty. Also as far as how it acts in the sunlight, especially if you're putting it in a pen ink recipe, you shouldn't be using it in the sunlight anyway because pen inks are an ink that's fast to fade. Why worry about how hard it'll stain if you know it'll stay? Like it's been said before, the buff is gonna get rid of a tag no matter how "hard" it stains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 If your using half kiwi half pen ink and its not coming off when the wind blows then ur a better man then me, Every kiwi product I have used including the die has ben a waste of time and space, I should have left your post alone, anyone using somthing they like and find usefull is Aok in my book, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a mutant rancor Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 points taken, ill read this thread and other sites more thoroughly next time i have a question,thanks for what you posted up phc!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manik00 Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 hey just wondering what mixes well with grog inks? like nero, oink etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minenone Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 yo i forget the right % of the concoction but this is a good one, about 2/3 oil buff paint 1/3 gasoline and then throw a little moter oil in thier, the buff paint is permanate and the gasoline eats threw any old paint and attaches to the original surface, the oil helps dripage, i did a tag on a metal poll once and they tried to buff it with a presure washer,it took the original paint right off and left the metal bare where i did it, leaving a rusty hand style Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Gas is a. Good solvent, we talked about it forever ago, asdf brouth it up, as for oil making dripps, this is false, all it will do is slow down drying time(mabye permently) the paint/gas mix is thinner then oil.Why would adding it make more drips, If you have to ask what a rusty hand style is you can't afford one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a mutant rancor Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 So the pen ink with meth comes straight off after being rubbed with some meth, but if its on a painted surface a little bit will come off but it will stain into the paint, mixed with leather dye and pilot it smudged a little but stays and keeps its colour. The final colour of the ink before additives is the same colour and consistency as i've seen when made with isopropyl alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 What is your test surface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a mutant rancor Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 I tested it on a plastic poster sign like ones for houses on sale and a metal sign both with and with out paint. should i be testing it on a different surface?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 No I was just wondering, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pazman Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I'm drunk some one tell me otr ink is the best or tell me u mix face paint and dot3 50/50 mix, Who wants what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anti-style Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I prefer face paint make sure its crayola though or it wont leave the ghost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a mutant rancor Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 I added some kiwi shoe whitener to some pen ink the colour was awesome but then it started to form clumps after a while, it wasnt buffed as easily with meth spirits. any ideas on how to lighten ink colour? or just get some white ink and mix then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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