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INK RECIPE SUPERTHREAD


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So after years of not posting.... And actually using and trying almost every type of ink and paint mixes in my absence, I've learned the following: How well an ink stains, and how well an ink weathers are two completely separate things, and the only way to get an ink that will do both well. Use a UV resistant base ink. T-Grade being the standard for my base, although I find its tackiness a growing concern. It clogs on contact with water beads and has ruined my night a few times. I used to use Garvey to dilute the T-Grade but found that it compromised the opacity and lightfastness to much even at minimal dilution. Now, I use tgrade (50%) mixed with any other alcohol based ink (30%) to reduce tack, and a dash of speedflow (20%) for extra UV protection. A sprinkling of GV/MB/WHY and that's it! I've been tagging for coming up on 18 years now, and I've gotta say this is the holy grail of ink for me. Don't get it twisted... I've spent days and gallons of ink mixing, experimenting, trial & error getting to this. I'll often now use a lighter color for the filler (alcohol) ink which can add nice highlights in this hot mess of vandalicious delight. For me brake fluid is a joke, as are most dyes and alcohol based inks as they cannot handle the weather here. Between the constant rain & sun, and lifestyle of a ruthless hustler, I don't have time for anything less than the best... and this is it my friends.... Enjoy. And if you can't afford it, you shouldn't use it. Speedflow is the bidness though.

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Yo so what do you guys think of this recipe:

T-Grade

Nero leather dye

GV liquid

MB liquid

PP powder.

Mix all of that shit together well making sure there is no clumps of anything.

I want to try boiling it all together but getting cancer doesn't sound fun especially cause I don't know what Im doing.

Any advice?

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Yo so what do you guys think of this recipe:

T-Grade

Nero leather dye

GV liquid

MB liquid

PP powder.

Mix all of that shit together well making sure there is no clumps of anything.

I want to try boiling it all together but getting cancer doesn't sound fun especially cause I don't know what Im doing.

Any advice?

 

i would start with 2-3 of those mixed if you don't know what you're doing (i barely do).

don't really need to boil it.

 

Can you buff acid etch on metal?

 

lol

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Black Parker Quink

Diamine Denim

74% isopropyl alcohol

lots of pens and sharpies

WD-40

two caps of dot 3

lil bit of charcoal

and some car polishing type shits who's labels say they're UV resistant and water resistant.

 

I've used this brew a couple times before in my mops, but have yet to establish the best ratio for the ingredients. Or at least I haven't measured it. Otherwise it's pretty sexy.

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im guessing he meant something like smash ink when mentioning xylene but for the most part xylene is used for thinning paint and itll eat the fuck out of any plastic based mop/marker if you leave it long enough

 

to make some shit like that get some silver metal rust paint, dunno what youd call it in america i guess just rustoleum bucket paint. they do it in small 250ml tins so get that and mix it with 3 or 4/5ths thinner (so 250ml paint/200ml thinner), stir the fuck out of it and put in a mop or whatever shit, basically just the same ghetto krink recipe thats being floating around for the last 15 year. im from britain so i tend to get these two:

 

8895206227998.jpg.7583bb0e3462fd9a828578a600c7d35e.jpg

PAT1281.png.ab90bfd56f577e824fe1598cc5eb638c.png

 

 

 

that thinner is xylene based but if youre leaving paint in a mop long enough for it to eat through and leak you're shite

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Just made some more ink and used some more accurate measurements. 150 pens, 1 1/4 cups 91% isopropyl alcohol, 1/4 cups purple PVC primer. I should have either used less alcohol or just kept the brew the same, because I'm starting to notice when I add any amount of charcoal to the mix with the expectation of it becoming thicker, it just leaves hateful wet clumps in my mop. I've heard various types of powders referenced to be used as thickening agents? Are we talking like baby powder or what?

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im guessing he meant something like smash ink when mentioning xylene but for the most part xylene is used for thinning paint and itll eat the fuck out of any plastic based mop/marker if you leave it long enough

 

to make some shit like that get some silver metal rust paint, dunno what youd call it in america i guess just rustoleum bucket paint. they do it in small 250ml tins so get that and mix it with 3 or 4/5ths thinner (so 250ml paint/200ml thinner), stir the fuck out of it and put in a mop or whatever shit, basically just the same ghetto krink recipe thats being floating around for the last 15 year. im from britain so i tend to get these two:

 

[ATTACH=full]201258[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]201259[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

that thinner is xylene based but if youre leaving paint in a mop long enough for it to eat through and leak you're shite

Nice recipe I make my own ink,I'm in UK,still got tags up from 8 years ago,get it on your hands,it's worse than invisible ink,u remember flowmaster ink made by berol,loved that shit but don't make it no more

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dunno if there is Feast and Watsons anywhere but down under , its a spirit based wood stain good to chuck straight in a mop does anybody know good things to add to it ? theres a recipe with black oxide pigment that will be good does anybody know that?

You can run feast straight or mix it with Acetone, Metho, other inks and maybe some brake fluid. Apply it as wet as possible, the longer it takes to dry to the deeper the scar will be and it usually bleeds through the first coat of buff as well. I was researching some plastic staining stuff from USA and some other stuff called leather dye I would like to get my hands on. Ill put some pics up soon.

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Hydroflouric acid will etch glass. I do not take any responsibility for you fucking yourself up trying to mess with this nasty acid. If you get arrested for etching glass, not my problem.

 

I will give you one warning though and that's that if you dilute it, it will not cause an acid burn on your skin immediately but it will absorb into your skin immediately and start depleting calcium from your body. This is some die in your sleep 10 hours later from not being careful or damage to your bones that will never heal itself. I highly suggest you read the MSDS on this acid before deciding it's something you want to do. I know glass etch is controversial so you know, go fuck up someone else's city with it, not your own blabh blahblabh.

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