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thats a pretty hood yard u got there, and about flex track opposed to actual curve track, ive found that most "stock" track that comes with trainsets and starter kits are find for most stock but if your riding longer cars like some passenger cars such as amtrak double deckers or intermobles or 86 cubic foot boxcars those turns are not wide enought to run these types of cars without a derailment so flex track can be very useful with this sort of thing

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I've been off the oontz for a minute but I wandered back today and found this thread. I'm really diggin it. This link may have been posted or some of the hardcore guys may be aware but I'll share it for the rest. Here in Denver we have this shop and it's got nearly everything you could want or need. I like to just wander the aisles sometimes on my days off.

 

http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/index_brief.php

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WELL I USED A COUPLE DECO'S FOR THE FILL AND ONE OF THOSE EXTRA FINE POINT ELMERS PAINT MARKERS,ALL DIFFERENT PURPLE COLORS AND MY BROTHER IN LAW DID THE RIGHT PANEL SAME COLORS.ITS LOOKIN GOOD SO FAR.NOW WITH THE OUTLINE IM NOT SURE YET,IM THINKIN A BRAND NEW SHARPIE,OR I HAVE THIS FINE POINT O.T.R. PEN. WHAT DO YOU GUYS OUT THERE USE? ANY TIPS? ANYWAY STAY UP AND KEEP IT RAIL!!!

 

since i have an endless supply of brand new sharpies i usually use those for outlines. innards usually deco's but the last few projects i used airbrush to get fades and sometimes just mixed acrylics and fine paint brushes.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I really love how detailed ExactRail ho scale cars are. But I have had issues with 3 of the 6 I have. Have a history of derailing. Speed I found wasnt a real factor. ( WHEN NEW right out the box ). Plus they are so delicate that no matter how much I dont touch them, I still end up with broken or missing or broken parts. ( hoses, couplers and bars ) But if you can keep them from derailing and dont pick them up after you first but them on your rails, they are pissa looking abd the detail is great.

 

Just to mention this. The other cars I have ( athern, atlas and so on ) dont derail at all unless they are attached before or after one. But not always, It also seems as the 3 I have that have given me problems are run more. They derail less. My guess is the plastic mold where the trucks are attached needed to be worn in a liitle. It dosnt matter if they are going straight or on a turn either. They just jump off track. No nothing on the tracks to make it happen.

 

Anyone else ever had them derail for seemingly no reason?

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i dont have any exactrail cars in the fleet just yet, but i have read and seen the detail on them things and yes, very impressive. A couple of things i have noticed that causes derailments: plastic wheels - i think exactrail cars come with steel wheels standard so that may not be an issue.. track joiners may also be a problem. if they are even the slightest bit uneven some cars just cant handle it. if the car derails in the same place(s) all the time, id bewilling to bet its the track. perhaps soldering the rails at the seam may help. I dont know the exact technique but there is a tutorial for it on youtube. oh and be sure not to mix different track codes. 83 with 100 for example will almost always be a problem. weight. if you have some add more weight to the car. they are supposed to come with the correct weight and should be placed in the car to distribute evenly, but sometimes it takes a few grams more to make the car stable. curves: if you can always use 22" radius curves. lastly, with the cars that always derail, i would suggest the surgical approach. get an exacto knife one of them eyeglass screwdriver kits from the dollar store (you probably already have these things) and try to determine what is causing the derailments and try to correct it through a lot of trial and error...

 

if none of this works, i would reccomend consulting a higher authority - either you local hobby shop or the guys at modell rr forum.

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Watercolors, huh? interesting.I guess when you have the thick watercolor straight out the bottle it can get pretty dark. I loveeee rusty cars like no one else. Yours looks cool, I just think it's got too much black. Remove some of that dark black and let some of the natural car shine through. At least so some of that UP logo and that "we can handle it" logo shines through, You don't wanna block that out completely. I'm no expert by any means, my weathering sucks, but that's my humble opinion anyway. You're probably better than me. But remove some of that darkness, and see how it turns out. I'd be interested in seeing the changes.

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