Seffiks Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Oh shit son, this was easier that the method i found! My pc died and i need to make a dif pc genuine. Sweet. Just a quick question, you can use either of those, right? I used the second link and everything seems fine. yep the first one is more for vista but it works with xp as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Ok, but I cant make any changes to my BIOS because I dont have the BIOS password. Is there any way to get access to it still? well you can either open up the computer and pop out the cmos battery or you can flip the jumpers on t he motherboard (read the computer manual it will tell you (or just tell us what kind of motherboard you hAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 the arrow to the left denotes the location of the "Clear CMOS" jumpers, while the red arrow to the right denotes the location of the CMOS battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 Here are the procedures if the jumpers are present on the motherboard: * Locate, if possible, the instruction booklet for your motherboard. If you cannot locate the booklet, then user the motherboard references on this site to locate the manufacturer and see if a manual is available there. You may also want to closely examine the motherboard itself. * Shut down your computer and disconnect the power plug. * Now identify where the jumpers are located, then check the present pin location and the location of the jumper on those pins to determine their default location. As an example, the default location on the above motherboard is to have the jumper across pins #1 and #2. Write it down! * Next, move the jumpers from the their default location (Example: from across pins #1 and #2 as above) and then place the jumper across pins #2 and #3. * Leave the jumper in place for 20 to 30 seconds and then return it to its default location. * Now plug the power cord back in and restart the computer. * When the computer begins it's startup (boot) process, tap the DEL, F10 or F1 key, (whichever is appropriate for your computer) to get into the Bios/CMOS setup. If you need more detailed information as to how to get to the Bios/CMOS setup, follow this link. Bios Basics * Once into the Bios/CMOS setup, look for a section or area to set the Bios/CMOS to its default settings. This will return the motherboard to either its basic or optimum settings depending upon the motherboard manufacturers settings. You will then need to verify certain settings, such a CPU and memory as well as hard drive type and size recognition. If you need more information regarding these settings, follow either of these links: For an AMI Bios or for an Award Bios. * After making any final adjustments, save your settings and restart the computer. The Bios password should be gone and the Bios set to its optimum settings. If the "Clear CMOS" jumpers are not present or not available: The procedures for clearing a Bios/CMOS without jumpers is essentially the same as those given above when they are present, it just takes a little more effort. * Shut down the computer and disconnect the power plug. * Locate, if possible, the instruction booklet for your motherboard. If you cannot locate the booklet, then user the motherboard references on this site to locate the manufacturer and see if a manual is available there. You may also want to closely examine the motherboard itself. * Now identify where the battery is located on the motherboard. It will be approximately 1/2 inch in diameter. * Normally these batteries are held into place with one or more small clips over the face of the battery. Carefully lift the battery out of its socket and set it aside. Note: Some batteries are actually soldered to the motherboard, so take that into consideration and be careful. * Leave the battery our of the computer for about 20 to 30 minutes and then return it to its socket. * Now plug the power cord back in and restart the computer. * When the computer begins it's startup (boot) process, tap the DEL, F10 or F1 key, (whichever is appropriate for your computer) to get into the Bios/CMOS setup. If you need more detailed information as to how to get to the Bios/CMOS setup, follow this link. Bios Basics * Once into the Bios/CMOS setup, look for a section or area to set the Bios/CMOS to its default settings. This will return the motherboard to either its basic or optimum settings depending upon the motherboard manufacturers settings. You will then need to verify certain settings, such a CPU and memory as well as hard drive type and size recognition. If you need more information regarding these settings, follow either of these links: For an AMI Bios or for an Award Bios. * After making any final adjustments, save your settings and restart the computer. The Bios password should be gone and the Bios set to its optimum settings. Option 2: What to do if changing jumpers or removing batteries doesn't work: On some motherboards there are no jumpers to be moved and the battery may be soldered into place and cannot be removed. There may also be those occasions where moving jumpers or removing batteries just won't work. This is often the case on early motherboards. In these instances, there are three additional options to be considered. Option #1: You can physically remove the Bios/CMOS PROM chip from the motherboard and send it either to the motherboard manufacturer or a Bios developer for replacement of flashing. You can also send the entire motherboard to a facility experienced in these operations. Option #2: If the motherboard has a flash updateable Bios/CMOS PROM chip, then you can download a fresh Bios update and re-flash the PROM to eliminate the password. Option #3: As mentioned earlier, there are programs (utilities) and (cracks) that can be used to try and either identify the password or remove it forcibly from the PROM chip. Utilities to recover passwords are extremely expensive and are usually only sold to manufacturers and others involved in hardware and software development. Smaller utilities and those referred to as Bios crack programs are readily available. These, however, are used at your own risk. Please read and understand our disclaimer before downloading any of these types of utilities. By downloading any of these utilities you are agreeing to the terms of our disclaimers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 or just use this tool http://www.dewassoc.com/download/BiosPass/rempass26.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAPSER Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 I dont mind opening it up and messing about, just show me what I need to do. I've got an HP 5750 Microtower with an AMD 64 X2 3800+ processor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAPSER Posted June 1, 2007 Share Posted June 1, 2007 nevermind i just saw all of that above, thanks seffiks i'll get back to you on whether or not all of it works out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauler5150 Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 I still can't extract that movie. I moved all the rar files from my temp folder to my C: drive, and still no joy, as it only extracts 1 part at a time then even when I go to find the second part that is actually in the same parent rar file it won't work. Anyone else have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torquemada Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 try opening the first out of the 4 rar files, then highlight all the rar files within said 1st rar file and right click them and select "extract to.." an empty folder and then unrar the first rar file in the new folder and drag the avi (or mp4 whatever it was) to the desktop so you can play it with vlc.... umm i dunno if that made sense but i think that's how i got it to work on xp, i already deleted the rar files so i can't try it right now....surry to get your hopes up on that link if you don't get it to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauler5150 Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 Yeah I already figured that part out myself, got it to work, but when it opens in Winamp I am getting audio but no video. Could be a codec issue maybe? Drivers? I haven't updated in a while, would that be the problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torquemada Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 the link said it only worked with VLC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauler5150 Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 Ahh, it is defaulting to Winamp (which I hate). I'll try to open it with VLC. Thanks mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauler5150 Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 Woo! I got it to work. I don't know how many times I created new files/folders though to get there! Going to have to go and delete all the rar files when I am done watching. Cheers for that link though, I doubt my torrent would even be finished by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 2, 2007 Share Posted June 2, 2007 so did it work goner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAPSER Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 I fixed the BIOS setup but I'm still working on getting the DVD burner up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAPSER Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 Also, when I checked my BIOS a second ago it still isn't showing the burner and Windows isnt recognizing it either... What should I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 so first, double and tipple check to make sure there is no IDE port hiding somewhere. I have not used those IDE to SATA devices but I assume they should work with a CD/DVD-rom. Can you post the adapter you bought? Also make sure your DVD drive is set to MASTER(or single...never slave or CS). if not i do not think those things will work. If it does not work, return it? If all else fails and you have room, you can always try a IDE to USB and just run the cable out the back and plug it in. Those I KNOW work with CD/DVD's USB to IDE/SATA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAPSER Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 Alright, time to crack it open and check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 you know they look like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 look at the motherboard picture i posted they are to the left of the cmos battery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAPSER Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 I got it working, I had the dvd burner set to slave rather than master, so i switched it over and it looks like all is good. Thanks for all the help seffiks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 yep no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauler5150 Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 OK, I ran a speedtest at speedtest.net, and I only got a result of 1292/212kbps. I am meant to be 1500/256, so why am I getting such a low result? I just ran a scan with asquared and AVG antispyware (as I was only getting a 300K Download rating before) and got rid of all the crap infections so why am I still slow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seffiks Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 OK, I ran a speedtest at speedtest.net, and I only got a result of 1292/212kbps. I am meant to be 1500/256, so why am I getting such a low result? I just ran a scan with asquared and AVG antispyware (as I was only getting a 300K Download rating before) and got rid of all the crap infections so why am I still slow? yer ISP (internet service provider) is lying to you call and bitch at them tell them you have been running speed test daily at random times and you are getting results way lower then advertised. maybe they will give you so money off the bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torquemada Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 i don't really know but i think it varies by location like some may be faster or slower than you even though you're on the same plan or whatever. i'm supposed to get 1500down too but most i've tested has been around 1350, that's why on commercials they say you CAN get speeds of up to 1500KbPS, not that you WILL...nawmseyin? i unno. Q:you know how there's sites where you can download subtitles for movies and shit? is there a way to burn a dvd of a movie with the subtitles put in, but also making it choose-able if you want them to show up or not like on a real dvd? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauler5150 Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 Yeah I get ya. Fucken torrents are going weird for me hey, I have had them going all day but they have only just connected to the trackers. Weird as. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torquemada Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 also, i know you can play pretty much anything with VLC, but with quiktime on some videos i can only get picture but not audio (sometimes the other way around) , it sometimes says components are needed to view it properly but it doesn't tell me what i actually need....I could just settle with vlc but i just like using frontrow when i'm watching my shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLICKCLACKONER Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 just got a new laptop with vista home premium. what anti-virus and anti-spyware programs should i get? preferably free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RELAPSER Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 I'd reccommend getting these few programs Spyboy Search And Destroy http://fileforum.betanews.com/detail/Spybot_Search_and_Destroy/1043809773/1 AVG Anti-Virus http://www.download.com/AVG-Anti-Virus-Free-Edition/3000-2239_4-10320142.html CCleaner http://www.filehippo.com/download_ccleaner/ Ad-Aware http://rs52.rapidshare.com/files/18317201/Adaware_Pro_SE_1.06.rar Those are the main ones I use, they should get you setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauler5150 Posted June 3, 2007 Share Posted June 3, 2007 also, i know you can play pretty much anything with VLC, but with quiktime on some videos i can only get picture but not audio (sometimes the other way around) , it sometimes says components are needed to view it properly but it doesn't tell me what i actually need....I could just settle with vlc but i just like using frontrow when i'm watching my shit. The one thing I dislike about VLC is how you have to move the actual cursor to skip ahead to a certain spot in the movie or it jumps all over the place. Annoying as anythign when watching dvds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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