watson Posted July 18, 2009 Share Posted July 18, 2009 dope shit man. even with the fade in them it doesn't look bad, but intentional i know you're trying to get it down perfect first though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 yeh that pull was major fucked i had to freehand the top of the middle most tower! also, corrigater cardboard stuffed in the shirt to make them flat is bad, because the print becomes corrigated! So im now putting in a flat piece of glass instead...lesson learned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mince Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 So I got all my supplies ready, and this is the first graphic I'm going to use It's hand drawn in photoshop, and sorry for stealing your halftones hayabusa, but when I printed the transparency, all the ink was bleeding and gettin wiped around, did you have that problem at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 you didnt steal my haftones dont worry lol no when i printed on my transparency it all stuck well. I have an inkjet printer... not sure what transparencies I used cuz I got them second hand. Not sure what kind of printer u got Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortFuse Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Word. I found that the printed transparencies dont go dark enough for me and the burn is horrible. Although Ive waited for a couple to dry and then printed over an already printed copy and it made it a lot darker. Oh and btw Ive never had the paint+textile medium damage the screen. Just dont let it stay on for long cause you dont want it to dry. I go so many projects on ym hands I dont know what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mince Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Shortfuse, what would you use instead of transparencies? And Hayabusa, I do have an inkjet printer, and I got specialty ink jet transparencies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 i found that if the burn was horrible or if light was let through the black portions of my transparency it was because i over exposed it. once i cut down my exposure time from 15min to 10, everything came out nice. EVEN though the printed transparency wasnt 100% black, once it was pressed firmly against the screen and weighed down by a piece of glass, it became nice and dark.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpyD Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 this is dope. Im inspired Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De sign Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 nice job lads, i been screenpriting for my own company 3 years now. try getting your hands on some TXR emulsion. ( pink to red- when cured) it takes me 40 seconds to shoot a 77t (metric) screen. on 1000wtts. a REAL squeegee - get one. a nice nutural hardness too. it will make your life alot easier. its only $1 per cm. and your screens will b in better nick and your prints will come out better. for more than one color jobs, its just layers and registration lot like painting graffiti. :) CMYK is some other shit that im still getting me head around... peace and p.s i love that cat with the roses design!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ORCA Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 Dope thread, awesome shirts so far. I just finished building this press using these plans: http://blog.craftzine.com/archive/2008/07/free_plans_for_a_4color_silksc.html It honestly cost me about $200 and it is capable (apparently) of doing 4 color prints (although I have not tried). The video you posted earlier Hayabusa helped me a ton and is a great guide for anyone interested in silk screening. BTW a cheap scope coater that works pretty damn good is a piece of aluminum angle iron, cut to fit, then you just tape up the sides so the emulsion doesn't get everywhere (even though it will anyway). Shit like this, only aluminum: I'd post some of my own prints but i don't own a camera 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ORCA Posted August 9, 2009 Share Posted August 9, 2009 http://www.blankshirts.com pretty cheap shirts 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 id be carefull using something like that .... screens seem VERY easy to rip.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
realtrash Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 i found that if the burn was horrible or if light was let through the black portions of my transparency it was because i over exposed it. once i cut down my exposure time from 15min to 10, everything came out nice. EVEN though the printed transparency wasnt 100% black, once it was pressed firmly against the screen and weighed down by a piece of glass, it became nice and dark.... I've always used two transparencies, stacked on top of one another. Seemed to have no problems with darkness that way. A bit of a pain to line up, but worth it. Also, try try automotive Bondo spreaders for squeegees, they're a couple bucks for a 3 pack. Always had good luck with them, great for shirts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHOP SUEY! Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 cheapo ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fiendish Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 ^Those look great... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHOP SUEY! Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 thanks, here's another one. I'm still pretty inexperienced, i tried to print shirts and failed horribly. I think it was because i was using a water based ink in like 90+ heat, it ended up clogging the image on the screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 help a brother out i want to clean the dry paint off my screen without ruining it and without getting the burnt emulsion off. what can i use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sars.Saw.Chicago Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 i came here askin the same question..... i removed everything and my image is still on the screen. ????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHOP SUEY! Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 try comet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHOP SUEY! Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 and scrub with a nail brush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThuggedOutGypsyz Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Any updates??? and BUMP killa thread.. Does anyone know if there is difference to silk screen on a jersey??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted August 23, 2009 Author Share Posted August 23, 2009 will comet fuck up the screen or the emulsion? also no real updates YET as comp is still fucked but im working on it i promise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShortFuse Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 Hmmm well Ive never had the problem of my ink drying. I always have a hose handy the minute I finish. I guess give it a try. Using a needle or nail that was mentioned does help scrape out some mess but it might be more trouble than its worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 UPDATE :) Finally got some photos and a good comp. So here's what Ive been doing lately, and the run down of whats new. Here are some newer designs.... (on this one, I ran over the screen waaay too much with the paint/squeegie. Notice how the lines are bleedy. The screen got TOO flooded with the paint, resulting in a shitty image :( ) as you can tell by the original line work: This is my fave. thus far. But I ran out of GOOD t shirts by this point, and i managed to BLEED all over the shirt. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted September 11, 2009 Author Share Posted September 11, 2009 Anyways. On to more tips. Turns out, the screen I bought is good because the screens themselves are REPLACABLE! Yay! there is a foam running all along the edge of the frame in the gutter. I used a chopstick to pull it out, and voila! New screens available. I checked out the local art store, and they sell just the mesh, by the foot. I ended up paying a little over $20 for 6 feet! That got me 6 new screens! Had I bought another frame + mesh, I think I wouldve been paying around $30 a screen/frame! Here are some of the screens when pulled out. Its KIND of tricky putting back screens that have been used already. They are slightly stiff, so they dont look great initially. Its kind of tricky to stretch them properly too. But after some washing and usage, they get better somehow. The really black one on the left is the church design. I think ive used this one a lot more than all the others, so its getting really dark, but when held up to the light, you can still see the design. On washing: Ive also discovered another important thing. After each print, the ink can be rinsed off with just water. BUT, using soap and a paper towel gets the BEST clean. This is the first screen I washed with soap after using it. As you can see, its relatively clean, considering how many times Ive used it. Thats all for now. OH yeah, the sale of meshes/screens by the foot is DOPE. They have all kinds of mesh available. Mine is in the middle as far as mesh count goes. I cant remember exactly the number, but I know its inbetween the super detail one (which is the most expensive, though still cheap if bought by the foot) and the not so detailed one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sars.Saw.Chicago Posted September 26, 2009 Share Posted September 26, 2009 I have spots on my screen that have permanently set in....i guess its pieces of emulsion remover that dried in..... ive tried using screen opener.... any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BETELGEUSE Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 I actually worked as a professional printer for several months, prior to that I had several classes in printmaking where I specialized in serigraphy (silk screening) so if any of you have any questions go ahead and send them my way. The best bet for getting rid of photo emulsion is stencil remover, you can get the stuff at the same place where you get all of your other screen printing supplies, the stuff is called sodium meta-peridate, diluted with water. let it soak for a minute and it will wash out with a good pressure water. Use greased-lightning after that, and it will make your screen easier to coat when recoating it. Also when making teeshirts, its best to flood once and then aply the right amount of pressure when pulling your ink. that should help with bleeding or over flooding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De sign Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 bump. yea with water base always flood your screen (keep it flooded) otherwise you run the risk of having ink drying up in your screen. (exp if its a hot day) Removing dried ink from a screen? you should be able to get all this stuff at your local screen supply shop. three steps to reclaiming a screen. 1. emulsion remover (scrub and blast) 2. haze remover (ghost remover) removes the stains on the screen of your last job 3. degrease (takes off the grease and shit so your screens good to re-coat) these things are all fairly cheap. get them, your printing experience will become alot better. you can cut some corners for example, the guy who wanted to get the ink off his screen with out removing the emulsion, just use the haze remover and that removes all the ink and leeves the emulsion. just don't rub/blast too hard. (and ware gloves, that shit burns) Also Haya, i am loving that humming bird design mate! very nice. Peace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
De sign Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 printing on jerseys (hoodies?) is similar, just really rub it down to your platen and use a little more off contact. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hayabusa Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 newest design went out and bought more emulsion, but I think I fucked up on the mixing, so its not as good. Also now im getting fucking lines where my transparencies over lap. BUT I found out you can use nail polish? to cover up unwanted holes on the screen (But you wont be able to reclaim it afterwards) as nail polish goes on liquid and dries solid so far I like this one the most Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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