nozaki

my bad, it says: GIRLS SUCK i know ya'll can relate with that shit

task.esp RIP

you can tell that it's only been a year. it looks great at first glance, and then you notice the letters aren't really structured that well. some lines are wrong, and the ones that are ok just aren't really to stylish...it's good though i guess...the colors are nice...it's just that you can tell that without using that style to camoflauge your letters that your shit's not on point...like, you can tell you probably wouldn't be able to bang out some nice simple stylish straight letters...prove me wrong. to everyone: also, whoever said that you should work on handstyles first is so correct. seriously, just work on nice simple handstyle, so you can learn the different way to flow lines to put style in them. i used a dry erase board with a chisel tipped expo marker for litterly like 6 years now...i still use it. it was the best investment i ever made. just use that to work on handstyles and throwups...once you get you hand down, then get 2 pencils and tape them together and do a hand on paper, and make it into a straight letter...or just draw seperate overlapping blocks for each part of a letter(most people do this)...just practice...shit is going to take years to be even decent at, so hopefully you're doing it for the love

done on ms paint :clown2:

Yo, nice hands, but I cant read it; what does it say? Quoted post [/b] fifty head bangers

horror business :shook:

no doubt, styl is obviously opinion...i tried to do 3d that got sucked towards the middle, so if you divided the piece into 4 sections the top left 3d is down to the right, bottom right 3d is up to the left, etc...and i don't think it really complimented it...or i just didn't do it correctly, haha...thanks though.

messing around with a new style, looking for any constructive criticism:

^^^^^^^^^ hopefully these aren't just sentimental too me, and everyone else sees some skill in them

my personal favorite, a local "old head"...like it or lump it

i wish i had a scanner

damn...was she dusted or some shit? every dnb only party i've ever been it was good vibes all around...until of coarse the juice is loose

what's up with the update? who got it locked now-a-days?

one shot all the way...that shit comes in leathal colors and is glossy as hell...plus it drips really nice and covers good...that's hard to come by with most homade paint...usually rusto bucket (except for the silver of coarse) either covers good but doesn't really drip, or drips nice but doesn't cover good... one shot with a little bit of mineral spirits(or better yet one shot thinner) in a stamp pad eraser = a fun time

for glass, my friend uses that purple otr flow pen ink. it leaves a really nice ghost after they buff it(looks almost like etch). garvey won't really mark glass, because it's not designed to really...straight garvey is best on poreous surfaces(most plastic, metals, etc.) ...the best things to hit with straight garvey is those orange construction cones...it's impossible to buff off of those, you would need to take like a sander to that shit because it like seeps inside the plastic. i'd rather just use one shot in a dabber for straight street tagging...that way you can just hit anything and not worry about "waisting" good ink on a surface that it shouldn't be on(painted metal doors, etc)...

um...haha? i'm pretty good friends with kids that use that shit, and they let jars of that shit sit on the shelf for like 4 months, and then use only the brown liguid on the top. the clay-like substance that floats to the bottom dilutes the acid, and makes it less powerfull...i could be wrong though...especially if this is some dl typoe shit...whatever though.

yeah, so i went "shopping" the other day for materials... potasium permanganate - the guy at the hardware store explained to me that it's used to clean up well water...i was questionable on how well that would work in a ink mix, so i looked around. i found this stuff that is used to dissinagrate tree stumps that has potassium nitrate in it, haha. that would probably be cool to experiment with. also i found this "cement etch" stuff that supposedly etches cement clean... meth blue - went to the pet store and a younger guy was working...explained that i needed it for a stain, and he said that the meth bue that pet stores carry is diluted and that he's never seen the crystaline consentrate in any catalogs, but knew exactly what i was talking about. i found this ultra permanent stamp pad ink at staples, it comes in a package with 2 tiny ass bottles and it's like 6 bucks...one red and one blue. mix them both together and it's a really nice additive to any mix also, i have been having issues with etch. it either never dries once i catch a tag, or if it dries you can scratch it off. i have the liquid version of it(the white bottle with the blue squares)...they have etch cream that says "permanent" on the front, but the bottle i have doesn't say permanent///does your bottle of liquid etch say permanent on the front of it? if so, i have the temporary version i guess, if that is even possible:confused: edited for confusing spelling errors

does anybody's marsh turn into a "coal like" substance after a while? i had a woodcraft filled with straight marsh, and it was sitting around for a month or so untouched...i went to use it and when i shook it i couldn't hear the ink swooshing around, so i opened it...the ink solidified into this coal like substance...like a black rock almost, but really easy to break up...what the fuck is up with that? and i noticed that if i'm hitting a non porious surface with marsh, you can scratch it off after it dries, and it only leaves a BARELY visible ghost...do i have like deffective marsh or something?

let me know how it goes when you mix the methylene blue with the potassium permanganate...it's supposidly not a good thing, but i've never done it

so i'll obviously stick with my xt-70. thanks

i would not recommend mixing potassium permanganate with Methyl Violet...oxidizing agents are the only incompatable substances that Methyl Violet has...

i've been a long time fan of violet garvey xt-70's staining power. i ran accross this other formula they have for froaen foods though, F-300. does anybody know if this is any good. common sense tells you that it will probably be more "permanent" because it's marking a "hard to mark" surface(i.e. frozen stuff)...but i don't want to buy it and be like on some "you shouldn't of bought that shit" tip.