twistoner TK Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 Oink does fade, i have proof flicks. speaking of fading, does anyone know a good additive to make pen ink more UV proof? you could either add raven oil or a splash of a store bought ink or sun screen not for real real for play play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
androidx Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 ha... sun screen, that made my day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OR- Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 you kids will buy anything i could piss in a bottle and call it ink and you'd buy it. sure androidx would Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
androidx Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 meh, depends on the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJONATHONX Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 yes you can put brake fluid in ink dot3 infact you dont put it in paint u put linseed oil in paint you put in to slow down the drying time so your ink is absorbed into the surface more oink definatly fades yes ded and garvey fade in the sun i do insides this is why it doesnt concern me that much but when you add raven oil it will not fade hardly at all and i use spray anywere else or paint mops but u can buff that of with out any trouble some other helpful aditives in paint mixes are japan drier paint hardener linseed oil hydrochloric acid also quantity over quality ur stuff will get buffed oink is a good ink but its not invincible itd be cheaper to make your own and you get a fuck lot more and itd be next to or nearly as good as oink counted you put the key element into the cauldren RAVEN OIL :p Dot3 has always messed my inks up. It's just seperated from it. I didn't add a huge amount either. None of my oink tags have faded after over 6 or 7 months. A few got buffed but there's still distinct ghosts. So mabey we're both right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-walk Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 i put dot3 in all my pen ink, never fucks with it. you only need a cap full for 2 cups of ink... nothing more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devour! Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 gooooooooooooolddddd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axolotl Posted February 12, 2008 Share Posted February 12, 2008 i thnk i got some almond peach somewer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505boogie Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 I need some help with cooking up some ink. Please PM me if you have any advice for me. It will be greatly appreciated. I work at a sign shop and run a solvent printer. I collect all of the waste and have gallons of ink stored at my workplace. The waste is a dark blue almost black from a combination of Cyan Magenta Yellow and Black inks. I was wondering what the best method of cooking the inks would be. What the best additives to turn it thicker and darker black, and the best techniques to go about this to turn my solvent ink waste into some super boku permanent slick ink would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweet*hero Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 by raven oil yall mean this>>>? http://www.josephlyddy.com.au/raven_oil.htm, PM me if you got a site to buy it from. and the mixing quantity for pen ink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwiwhaaa? Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Gatorade bottle- rubbing alchohol and pen ink and more :huh: small water bottle-leftover garvey left over flowpen ink..idk wanted to make enough for a good use.. nail polish remover bottle-rubbing alchohol, powdered black pigment, like 10 grams of rit purple powdered dye, powdered gum arabic I found somewhere :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwiwhaaa? Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 (Not my inventory..) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SerialSkiller Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 hydrochloric acid seems pretty hardcore to me to add into qa paint mix? what does it do to it? also can anyone tell me what japan drier is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwiwhaaa? Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Pretty much a concentrated drying agent. For those fucked up like 1/3 dot3 mixtures. lol.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ink_dot Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 A few things, one DED outdoorsmen juicing up a pilot + :) ???? they are somewhat dry siting in the store for a while... linseed oil this is the yellow oil stuff you get at art stores for cheep? the pure oil? what exactly can I do with this stuff, its been on my mind for a bit now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505boogie Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 so no ideas on the solvent ink additives or methods of mixing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistoner TK Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 Dot3 has always messed my inks up. It's just seperated from it. I didn't add a huge amount either. None of my oink tags have faded after over 6 or 7 months. A few got buffed but there's still distinct ghosts. So mabey we're both right haha my tags are like buffed the next week . but my inside run for months. yeah i used to get that but i just put a very small amount of brake fluid. not too small though. yeah i just rekon its better to just make it yourself . although its fun to get something nice for yourself every now and then. what ink did mix the dot3 ink?. might just have been that ink. also do em dirty has brake fluid in it. i am not sure weather it is out doorsmen or not. id say it would be indoors so it can seep into the surface more deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twistoner TK Posted February 13, 2008 Share Posted February 13, 2008 A few things, one DED outdoorsmen juicing up a pilot + :) ???? they are somewhat dry siting in the store for a while... linseed oil this is the yellow oil stuff you get at art stores for cheep? the pure oil? what exactly can I do with this stuff, its been on my mind for a bit now. It goes delicious as a aditive in paint mixes but u must also use it sparingly because using alot ur paint will NEVER EVER dry it also helps to add a dash of japan drier to it linseed oil suspends the pigments so that they are absorbed into the surface to it full ability and even a small amount can take a WHILE to dry so that what the japan drieir is for and u can geuss what it is for but for those who cant it speeds up the drying time. so itl be semi dried for a lil while but not for too long. yes i double posted yes i am sorry for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Day.6 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 why oink uses metheleyne blue over gentian violet gentian violet does not seep through paint like metheleyne blue does and it just stains as it is a dye/antiseptic used for tinia and you are only able to get it on a perscription in australia i am aware oink is in dallas texas BUT! i just added that last part if u try searching for it over here. and methelyne blue is prob cheaper he also uses potasium permangran :D Thanks bud, does anyone else agree with this? - asdf?acanz?androidx? And mate, dot3 does not increase ghosting, only slows down the drying time of ink for drips - it's been discussed several times before on this thread, try maybe 20 pages back? However, I am fairly certain 'Hoppes No.9 Nitro Solvent' would do what many think dot3 does, as it is made to clean out the residue from the bores of firearms, and it claims it removes primer etc - Google it. I will soon try it out with marsh and see what happens. Also, I found this http://stepout.co.nz/products/shoe-dyes/shoe-dyes/Coxy019/ Coxy's "Deep black" shoe dye, with a convenient brush. A maybe ghetto griffin dauber(although it's a brush)/calligraphy tool? Has anyone else tried it?I'll get it soon sometime, maybe. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aes-abc Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Mek's Poster Paint Stainer! Get a cheap glue tube (the ones you can squeeze to make the glue come out) Take plastic stopper out of the way (same way you would as if you were actually using the glue) Empty glue out Break the plastic bits under the nib so more paint comes out easier (if you take the nib out and look from the inside you will see what i mean) Get some “TRIPLE SWIRL color burst poster paint!” or other poster paint by that brand, doesnt have to be triple swirl. (mine is pink orange and purple mixed together but comes out purple) Get some Rit liquid dye (proferably a colour that goes well with your poster paint colour, eg: orange/purple/pink goes with orange dye, yellow dye, purple dye Get some brake fluid All the ingredience. HOW TO PUT IT ALL TOGETHER! Drip some brake fluid into the tube until its about ½ a centermeter (CM) of brake fluid filling the tube Pour some Rit liquid dye into the tube until the amount in the tube goes from about ½ CM to about 2 CM (the dye might look very dark or a yuck colour, but it will all work out, dont worry!) put the poster paint into the tube to about half way, pour about a drinking bottle cap full of water in, put the Plastic stopper back in and shake well, take the stopper out, and put more paint in until its about 2 CM away from the top, put about ½ cm more water in, stopper in, shake well again, take it out, put the nib bit back on, tape the around the threading for the lid/the nib to hold it to the tube (sometimes it can be dodgy and loose, also so theres no leakage) but makesure its a tape that your able to still screw the lid over. Use it, and it goes on like junobo/any other paint-ish stuff, drips and shit, but the difference is that this stains metals and woods and other surfaces accept glass obviously, mine stains with a light pink-ish stain, I tried washing it off with a stain remover, windex, and about 4 other cleaning agents and the stain didnt go away. so it stains pretty hard, hes some examples: glass Metal (the only metal i can get to at 1am in the morning in the rain) Before After (the stains left) So please gimmie feed back! Next time I make it ill take pics of me actually going through it so its more simple.;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJONATHONX Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Nigga that shits water based Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aes-abc Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Nigga that shits water based explain the stain? jesus what do you want? i video of me trying to scrub it off with cleaning agents??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJONATHONX Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I don't want all that, I'm just saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aes-abc Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 I don't want all that, I'm just saying. sorry about bein kinda agro aye.. stayed up til 1 making this and i dont see what the problem is, the point is it stains, so its good if your a bomber and you hit up in places that gets buffed. it stains, it stains good. and the shit i made it with is cheap, if you even buy it at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJONATHONX Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 Edit: Nevermind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
axolotl Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 it looks good and all but im not convinced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aes-abc Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 it looks good and all but im not convinced not convinced bout what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeBaumer44 Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 first of all, put it in a real mop. that glue stick sucks and it looks mad streaky. 2nd, the paint is not even opaque from what i can tell. It might stain, but the actual tag looks like shit. This is an ink I have made. It is opaque and stains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SerialSkiller Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 thats shocking.... if it does stain, all the other ingredients besides the rit dye are usless, because thats the only thing staining anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JakeBaumer44 Posted February 15, 2008 Share Posted February 15, 2008 haha yea in th 2nd pic it looks like only rit dye came out :( Try it out on a peice of paper and squeeze hard. and shake it first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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