asdf_va!

I can't believe you are still talking about this. Go outside for a while... get away from the computer. Do you even know Johnehh personally? What does it matter. Why hate?

^^classic.

The axe transfer... I remember seeing that.

I really appreciate the fact that there are intelligent people on here actually helping out and not fueling off topic fighting. EDIT:^^directed at Junobo, but includes several of you awesome cats in there. You know who you are.

Fuck whatchya herd... If you are teaching yourself to do this: You are one step closer to beast status! Almost there. Just go taller and faster! Hats off to RED. /nosarcasm /nohomo

Or just in your pocket.

Crystal City Va. The main patent office. They rake in the dough big time!

Every time I have gone to there site, its been up and working fine for me. I would say that http://www.durablesupply.com is pretty reliable. [smiling...] /nohomo

One of those, and some Junobo... Perfect combo. Seriously. /nosarcasm

^^Best thing I have heard in a while! Co-signed!

Nah. Just a simple paint mix. Nothing special. But it's up.

Hero

The only reason you would want a kiwi mop, or any mop, instead of the NYCmop is that you might want to use paint instead of ink. Junobo rather than Oink or DED for instance. Everything works in kiwi's, but only ink in the NYC mop. But remember... this NYCmop is the real dopeness from way back. It's solid and just like the classic original mops of the way back days. Super Duty Tough Work!

It's supposed to be a white pigment stencil ink. So it will be really thin... not like paint, but should be almost opaque white. Oink: can you spill some of that on the floor and take a flick? I really want to see this stuff now as well. I have this feeling that it will come out looking like skim milk... but thats just my mind thinking the worst. EDIT: In response to the White Marsh

^^big co-sign! But you can ONLY use ink in it. It's what its made for.

So I was going to gift that rest of that red I posted up to friend around my area, but it was about half full. So I had some yellow that I have been using for ground tags and thought... oh shit... This would make a really great orange! So I take one of my ground bottles and start to squeeze in this awesome yellow... Shake, shake, shake... MOTHER FUCKER! It was totally latex. I knew it was latex and I just wasn't thinking. Now I was waiting for them to totally separate and suction out the two colors separately, but every time I look at the bottle I get all bummed out. I'm just going to start over with something else. I will tell you though... the best part of that paint is bottle. It's a Knob Creek Whiskey bottle that has a plastic and cork cap that fits perfectly in the bottle. I was so stoked to gift it out... Live and learn I guess.

I like how all you have contributed to this thread is trying to call people out like it something people really want to hear. It isn't. If you ain't got something constructive to say, then why bother? You just end up sounding like all the other weak "writer for the summer" toys that annoy this and other threads. No need for an answer.

^^see the red bottle on the right? ^^see the action shot? Met this kid and gave him some of my stuff. Want to know MY recipe??? Start with one of these: Drink the whole thing! Next you want one of these in any red color: Make sure its Oil based and 8oz will do you(doesn't need to be the door paint either). You need some of this: It's super cheap, and you can the smallest amount you can find of any thinner. Next you want this(OIL BASED!!): In this color: Red Mahogany 225 Finally, some of this: Directions... 1.Take the full 8oz tin of the rusto oil based red and pour it into the empty knob creek bottle(not all of it will come out, but thats ok). 2.Next take 1oz of the thinner(+/- .5oz) and put it into the rusto tin that you just emptied. The will break up the paint that wouldn't come out. 3.Put 2oz of the Oil based Minwax red wood stain into the tin with the thinner. Close the rusto tin tight and shake the shit out of it. 4.Open the tin and pour the new contents into the bottle of paint. Close the bottle, and shake the shit out of it. Let it sit, and repeat. 5.Open the bottle and add 1oz of the Dot3 Break fluid(less IS more). Shake! Thats it. If it's too thick, add .5oz of the Minwax wood stainer. Consider this one... a freebie! Good luck. Junobo's mix is way better than this and worth the loot. Oinks ink is ridiculously better than this mix, but it's not red... Yet. DED... same thing... but the man has some shit in store for all of us! ^^Quality shit to buy! I make my own, and I am cool with that. But I still buy these guys stuff as well... for when I want to impress the ladies and shit. Check em all out!

I've seen a lot of setups like that throughout the years. It's like when you find that perfect marker... Nothing works as good as this marker, and its all busted and leaky but you can't stop using it!

^^google oner posts something every page. I'm going to start my own business too. I'm going start a graffiti hot line! If you need help with making a marker, need a tip on what to put in your ink/paint, having problems painting a piece with more than 3 colors in it, need assistance with getting that 3rd letter of your one liner throwie connected without a shitty "loop 'd' loop" going through the whole thing, or you are just lonely and need someone the yell at you... Call me NOW for a free readin'... 1-934-778-7243 Thats: 1-9-FIRST-PAGE!! Why... Because "1-900-Read-the-first-fucking-page-of-the-thread!" was way too many letters to fit in the number slots! 99cents for the first minute, 50cents for ever minute after the first. As always, if you end up crying on the phone, and don't hang up... You get 3 extra minutes for FREE!

^^I can't fucking believe you! Just kidding. Good luck with that!

almost everything will at some time leak. Especially if you are using them a lot. I have started to keep my mops in a plastic bag. While it may seem too much, it's pretty awesome to just hold the mop in the plastic bag(sandwich bag) and expose the tip out of the bag, take the top off, and get busy. Recap and pull bag back over. It's also like having a glove at the same time. The bag protects your fingers. If your KR mop busts on you, just grab a kiwi shoe polish mop. They are essentially the same thing. Good luck.

Sk8ter: I don't know specifically of they clay I was talking about... I just know that there are clays that will dry without you needing to cook it. The reason that you want this clay is so the mold doesn't change shape as it dries. If you wanted a permanent mold, you would start with this one, make a reverse cast, and then make another mold with your reverse/negative(?) cast and then cook that. Just ask someone at a art store. Let them know the size that you are trying to make the mold. You will need a fair amount. They should be able to point you the right direction. I am interested in this now as well, so I will be on the look out.

^^Never tried it, but I want to now that I wrote about it. I like doing shit with my hands and stuff.

^^This is hot! Finally some substance. So I read this and think it's brilliant. You can get a candle and shave it down the size that want your end product to be. Then take wet clay that will dry hard(not needing to be cooked), and form a block around the shaved candle. You want two pieces though. A bottom mold that the candle can lay in. The bottom mold will cover half of the candle. The top mold will sit on top and cover the whole candle. Then depending on how your end product is made... For instance, I see you making something that is a hot liquid that cools solid. If I am right, then you want to put a good sized hole in the top half of the block mold that goes all the way to candle. Let the clay dry around the candle(grease the candle so it wont stick to the clay, even though it shouldn't) with wax paper between the halves so that the two blocks don't dry to each other. As long as the surfaces, where the block halves touch, are flush... when the clay dries, you can take out the candle put the block back together and bind it shut, with maybe some petroleum jelly to keep it sealed, and then pour in your molten material into the hole you made in the mold. Keep filling until it's all the way, and you have gotten as much of the air out of the center as possible* and then let it sit and cool. Once it's cooled down, throw the whole thing into the fridge to make sure the center of your mold is cooled solid. Once that is all set, crack that sucker open, and shave off all the imperfections(they are unavoidable in this setup), wrap it up. I really hope that you are trying to make your own streaks! *make two holes. One for filling the mold, one for letting the air out to avoid air pockets in your mold. Good luck!