shai

Nope...Kiwi only makes good mops. I didn't think sumi would mix well with Griffin, but Griffin is alcohol based so it could work. Those applicators are cool, how much are they? (Michael's isn't the rack it used to be.)

I get your point. No, that's water based...you'll wreck the tip. Use Pilot or some kind of leather dye, and you'll be all right. Or, look around for solvent-based stamp ink. Shit, I just remebered something! The Sanford blacktop ink is perm and fadeproof, but it won't mix with a lot of other perm inks since it has a phenolic base. Phenol is kind of outdated, and it isn't compatible with most other solvents. So use it by itself, or if anyone knows something that does work, I'd like to know. I killed a mop the other day not knowing this...yes, I still fuck things up, believe me. This is funny to say here, but I cook a lot...and, everyone makes mistakes. I made this spanish rice the other night that needed a little more bump, so I added vegetable boullion to it...A LOT, at that. Suddenly, it went from being bland to making every single orifice on my body pucker. I think I may have hurt myself...so, I added more rice and tomatoes, and poured in some wine...I saved it, but MAN...I felt my hair grow an inch in five minutes, no shit. Ink is the pretty much the same way, except I don't do taste tests with it anymore. :ballcap:

You're chill too....Procolor is good shit, too. I talked to my ink guy I buy from and he said it's solvent based, so go ahead and put a little Goof-off in it- three drops is enough for a pen. The cool thing (and bad thing) about Goof-off is that it's an easy way to get straight xylene, which is what a lot of perm ink is based on. So, since you have it, use it up...Japan drier is the way to go, though, since it has all the solvent you need and a drying agent as well. All paint stores carry it. All my inks come out fine, too- I used to overdo the xylene and end up with streaky-looking tags, but not anymore. The pints of Procolor are super cheap, about $18 if you shop around.

I don't use T-grade by itself. I just use it as an additive now. Even though I kind of freaked out when I first saw it, I really thought the ferric nitrate idea was on point. Before you do anything with ferric nitrate, however, read this first. It's the MSDS for ferric nitrate, and will give you an idea of what you can expect. Take it seriously, please. I looked around to see if turpentine is reactive with ferric nitrate, and apparently, they use the two together for patina work- I wasn't clear on whether there's any actual mixing of the two involved, so be warned.

Thank you...I'm doing some A/D transfer from some really, really old tapes and want to clean them up in ACID. My dad gave me the program and when I asked him for the manual, he sad, "Oh, it's easy...you'll figure it out." I'll tell him the same thing he needs my expert skills. "It's easy..don't trip."

Anybody got a Sonic Foundry manual?

...oops, I was on a computer at the library, and got cut off. Anyway, I can't say for sure what the future holds. I know that I am a unique case as far as most writers go...I didn't start getting up till I was 28, but I had been involved in graff in some way for half my life. So, I think I came into it knowing more than most people on the come-up. I planned my campaign out, and knew what I wanted to do and what to avoid, too. I stayed out of the scene for as long as I could, but, one day, the scene found me...soon after that, it stopped being fun. All the mystery was replaced with drama at that point, not for me so much as who I was around...cops, drugs, fights, gossip, haters, shady ex-girlfriends, jealous toys...and, so I moved on. Now, I'm almost 32. I have a decent job, a great girlfriend, and finally got my own place for the first time in years. I also want to start a business soon, write a book, and work on my fine art along with comic art. Graff may have just been a sidebar, since I think I would like to get fame in other areas...but I'll always incorporate some graff into all my work. Tastefully...I mean, I'm not gonna sell t-shirts. Look here to see one of my projects. It may surprise you.

Flip- I'll PM you later once I see what I have got...I'm not at home now. It won't be straight Garvey, though, it will the mix I use, which has Garvey and about 8 other inks in it. MC- No one ever quits 100%. I've gone from 30-150 tags a day to about, I don't know, 50-100 tags a month, maybe? My most active period lasted six months, and I probably went out every night for three months in a row. It was insane, but I was living in a city that was pretty easy to get over in at the time..it was in a transitional period for graff, and me and about 10 others ended up kicking the door wide open. Now, it's kind of blown out...but, I'm going out a little more every day lately, so....

How did you come up with ferric nitrate? That's pretty clever, but dangerous. I know photographers as an etching ground for doing silver plates, but I never would have thought to add it to ink. How did you handle it safely? Was there any kind of reaction to the solvent in the ink? And, have you gotten it on your skin, if so, what happened? Before anyone considers doing this, be warned- FERRIC NITRATE IN SOLUTION IS EXTREMELY TOXIC AND HIGHLY CORROSIVE. This is the MSDS for ferric nitrate in solution....bad shit. They use nitric acid to make the solution...and, NITRIC ACID WILL KILL YOU if you inhale it. Basically, all you would have to do is inhale the fumes for a couple of minutes for your lungs to hemorrhage, and you would drown in your own blood...you'd be better off playing in traffic than doing home chemistry with it. So, I don't recommend using the solution to anyone. I really don't want to hear about "some kid who died making graffiti ink he learned about on the Internet..." You could kiss 12 oz. goodbye after that, and then read about the lawsuit shortly afterward. It doesn't take much these days to wind up getting fucked in court. I work at a law firm that does nothing but defend corporate liability cases, and while I am no fan of most of their clients, reading the cases makes me realize that most Americans are litigious to a fault, even when their own stupidity is the real issue. In plain Engish, that means DON'T FUCK AROUND, JACK. In powder form, this stuff isn't as bad, but it's still a strong oxidizer so you should wear gloves, goggles and a mask as a precaution. I KNOW everyone here doesn't use etch, but let's just say, in theory of course, that you would want to keep it off of your skin. But, you know, I heard it from my cousin, who was talking to his best friend's baby momma's roommate's stepbrother's neighbor, and you know HE doesn't lie. I'm gonna get off the subject here for a couple of paragraphs. Someone thanked me the other day for posting here and said he appreciated that I took the time to add useful information to the thread. (BTW, you're welcome.) There's two reasons why I do this. First, and foremost is because it finally dawned on me that there's a bunch of kids with no chemistry experience mixing toxic chemicals together out there, and the law of averages dictates that it's only a matter of time before some jackass does some jackass thing that burns his house down or lands him in the hospital. It only takes one time, people! And, I'm not cracking on anyone who has found out about this the hard way...the reason it happened is not due to malice or negligence (I hope), but plain old ignorance. Sure, we're all vandals, but burning down your house while making buff-proof ink is not gonna get you the kind of fame you want. And, I don't care how charming you think you are, just try explaining THAT one to your family or your roommates. I realize that these are worst case scenarios but I watched my friend "accidently" paint his ceiling after he heard that boiling cans reduces the pressure in them...true story. I can laugh about it now, but my first reaction when I saw his kitchen covered in red paint was to head for the fucking door. I'm sure there are plenty of stories like that out there, but you rarely see them here. Also, I'm old enough now to realize that although there are rules, and everyone who ever told me how to make or do something graff-related always said, "Dude, don't tell anyone about this...", I doubt that there's going to any repercussions from me sharing what I know on a message board specifically intended for graff information. Most of those people have moved on considerably by now, and I'm sure that they wouldn't mind. Also, I want people to benefit from my experience, no matter who they are or what their motivation is. Toys need to learn somewhere, too...and, although I think the Internet shouldn't be the first place to learn from, for some kids it's their only resource. If they are willing to put the time in to learn, who cares? When I started, I learned by hanging out with older writers, who explained that respecting history, developing my own style, and making the tools of the trade were all equally important, so I paid attention to every detail. One thing I learned over the past 16 years of watching the graffiti soap opera is this, though- 90% of the writers who are pushing quality and quantity in graff forward are white boys from the suburbs who could have just as easily gotten into comic books or advanced calculus if they didn't have this strange, ego-driven obsession with being good at writing on things. In other words, they're nerds, just like me, and a lot of them are too concerned with bombing and trying to keep a low profile to be thugs. Thugs tend to get noticed more, and by and large, graff thugs seem to be the ones who get caught, even though they get the best spots. Drama is certainly part of the game, but it's not something that ever impressed me as much as seeing a clean handstyle on a hot corner. And, when it's done by someone who I've never met after seeing them up consistently for years, that increases my respect for them tenfold. I don't really care about competition, or understand it, either. What's the point? Who's keeping score, anyway? And, isn't beauty in the eye of the beholder? I did something like 15,000 clean tags and a hundred or so straight letters in 18 months, and got my fame on. I didn't battle anyone, really...there's plenty of walls to do your thing on if you aren't lazy. Then, one day, I stopped. I'm not sure why...motivation was part of it. I guess I said enough to get noticed and dealt with both the good and bad sides of it, and decided to move on to other things. I might make another appearance, if the spirit moves me. Who knows? Well, that's it. I've definitely rambled enough for one night. But, I was meaning to say this for a while, so if you were wondering, now you know. Good night..

Flip, if you send me a few bucks to cover a bottle and postage, I'll send you some (4 oz.) ink to try out. Since you aren't too far from me, it should get to you pretty quickly. Think about it, and PM me if you want to do that. I literally have a couple gallons of ink sitting in the studio, and there's no way I'm gonna run out soon. Shoe repair shops have the Fiebing's dye, usually. It's not an ink, nor is Griffin- they're for redying leather shoes. The Fiebing's is professional grade, and comes in something like three dozen different colors. And, it's dirt cheap.

Here, Flip. I found mine at a fabric store, they seem to be marketed under a few different brands. Mine were from Singer and cost $3 each. [attachmentid=22300] They have a very clean line, as you can see. [attachmentid=22301] Here's what the finished product looks like. I didn't leave any of the parts out, but it was a bitch to unscrew the top off. Is there some trick I should know about these? [attachmentid=22302] I found this the other day at the store where I pay my cellphone bill. It's got to be at least 30 or 40 years old, and it works as good as new. I love old pens like this...I still find them here and there.

I finally got some of the Leeho pens...and, the hype was well worth it. These are hot shit, for real. Imagine a Zig, but about a third smaller and the tip is perfect, about the same as a Pilot, but on a flowpen. They don't hold a lot of ink, but they don't waste any of it, either. I'm sold.

Quickly, before I go to the store... Hey man if you still have some of that garvey I really need some so pm me and we can work something out asap. Thanks for the usefull info too I haven't used one shot before but im going to check it out looks like it beats rusto. Quoted post Sure thing. I have a few bottles left, so either PM or email me. Let me know if you have anything good to trade, besides spray paint- I just came up, so I'm probably set till the new year for cans. It's waterbased, but it looks nice. I use it for drawing, myself. It works in any clean pen or mop....You can bomb with it, but when it gets wet, goodbye tags. <!--QuoteBegin-FriedGreentomatoes@Oct 1 2005, 04:26 AM indian ink sucks does anyone has tips for cheap inkt, because my marker does use lots of ink and i dont want to by ink for 8 dollars Quoted post When you said eight bucks, what kind of ink were you talking about? That's not a bad price if you get at least a half pint of solvent based ink. The cheapest thing to use is Griffin black shoe dye. It is universally available, and costs two bucks and change. It's thin enough to use in pens, alcohol-based, and it's one of the most underrated stains out there. It also has a wand built into the cap, so you don't even need to use a pen. This is my favorite. Four bucks for four ounces, same as Griffin, and it stains even harder. Look for it at a shoe repair shop, and try to get USMC Black. That's the one...black is fine, too.

Here's my latest black ink recipe...it's simple, but the inks I'm using right now are difficult if not downright impossible to find. Some of them are on the Web, though, so if you are good at finding stuff there and persistent enough, you can find them or adequate substitutes. Here it is- I'll explain what each ink is, and what I think it does for the mix. A big hint I can give you is that I only use industrial grade, solvent based stamping inks...That's what all these are sold for, so if you find a good commercial rubber stamp source, you're in. As far as bluffing them into thinking you're legit, that's entirely up to you. Two parts Marsh T-Grade, black- for stencilling boxes and crates. I use this for its flat black color, and the drips. One part Garvey XT-70, black or violet- old school pricing gun/cash register ink- obsolete and hard to find. This is the stain. One part Aero Specialty ink, black- another commercial stamping ink that's acetone based. Rare, and expensive (about $32/pint). This adds opacity, and the acetone evaporates quickly so the ink dries faster. This is one of my all-time favorites, and highly recommended. Mix all three in a glass bottle by shaking it for a few minutes. Then I add a little japan drier to help it mix and to speed drying. There you go..good luck with finding some of that stuff. BTW, every ine of those inks work really well alone, so don't dump full bottles of them into a batch...I usually make this out of small quantites of leftover ink. Sometimes, other ink goes into the batch, but the first three are the ones you really need to find to copy this mix. Sometimes, I'll add Fiebing's USMC black leather dye for a stain if I have it, but it's also hard to find. Be creative, and don't mix water based ink with solvent inks. That's the biggest rule that no one seems to cover.... :rolleyes:

No problem. Just about any oil-based paint can be reduced this way, so don't limit yourself to Odds N' Ends...Pactra, Varathane, Ronan, Hascolac, Testors, Rusto Industrial and PT, Short Cuts, Kilz, and One-Shot are all brands of Oil based fliud enamels and lacquers I've used and abused. Look for the words, "deep oil-base", "alkyd", and "oil-based enamel" on cans of paint you see around. If you are going to be messing with old paint, be sure to wear a mask and gloves at least part of the time, and use two different containers to mix and store each color...I use Jagermeister bottles, myself. I found that glass is the best way to go for the job. By the way, the only two solvents I ever use are xylene and JD, and JD is becoming the ONLY thinner I'll use. Xylene is too volatile most of the time to accurately mix/thin down paint, it's really toxic, it melts plastic and eventually ruins whatever pen or mop it's put in and you have to use about three times as much xylene as you would japan drier. I've had the same half-pint of JD for two years and I use it all the time. A lot of experienced painters have told me that I'm using the wrong thing, but hey, it works. If you can find it, One Shot reducer does the same thing and doesn't change the opacity of the paint it's added to...but, it's expensive and it's nasty stuff to work with all the same. Most importantly, I only use mops for thinned paint...most pens don't seem to work well, if at all, for me. You might be the exception to that, but I wouldn't put an untested mix in a nice pen unless I had plenty of them in case it fucks up. If you ever get stuck, a lot of hobby shops that sell models or cast iron figures usually have one guy who is a paint guru, and if you keep the conversation and questions limited to model painting, more often than not they'll be happy to help you out...I learned a few useful tricks this way.

All art stores and better paint stores carry japan drier. I like it since it's a solvent as well as a drying accelerator, and it doesn't seem to alter paint color at all, as long as small amounts are used.... a little goes a long way.

I cracked this really old can of Varathane open last night. [attachmentid=22122] It was still good, forty years later, and a nice, deep midnight blue, so I mied some in a mop with japan drier and tried it... [attachmentid=22126] I love that color, but I need to thin it so it flows better. But, not right now.

Keep going...

How are you going to do that?

can we just use the regular "odds and ends" just throw that fucker in a pen den i'll work? will is last long time a permenet?? sorry i'm curious. Quoted post [/b] Wow, good timing! I was here posting when you were.... 1)No, you have to thin it Odds n' Ends- it's too thick to flow otherwise. Lately I use japan drier to thin my mix...but, just a little bit, like 5-10 drops for a mop. Which brings me to the next point- use a mop for this mix, it will clog pens and dry out tips. And, it will run for years if left alone, and since it has a plasticizer added, it's a bitch to remove. This stuff takes a few tries to get the mix down. Only use a 1/4 bottle per batch, so you can adjust the mix if it streaks or won't flow.. Use Q-tips to do line tests- when it's opaque, and it flows about the same as chocolate syrup, there you go. Good luck.

All you have to say it's for is to get rid of the parasites in your fishtank. They probably won't ask, unless they are incredibly nosy. If they don't have it, ask them to order it- it's no big deal, since most people would never guess that you would be using it as an ink additive.

Check out Tofurky...it's GOT-DAMN good, but pricey. Rainbow has it. My favorite quick sandwich is Tofurky, pepper style, with Miso Mayo and fresh spinach on some toasted sourdough. A little sea salt will bump up the flavor, too. And it's vegan....you ain't skirred of vegan, right?

Sweet home Chicago...You know Alone? He's my boy...

Yeah, that's Garvey or maybe mimeograph fluid...that's in Chicago, right?

To deathmetal (Obituary? Broken Hope?)- 1)Garvey is as good as any other ink on non-porous surfaces, meaning that if you write with it on metal or enamel, it's gonna come off after the second or third buff. So, everything being equal in this regard, anything I use on metal I would expect to last until they got the right solvent to remove it. Mean streaks seem to be the best thing going, since the only way to remove them is to sand or chisel off the paint. I've heard a little bit about an ink that has an etching component in it that's used for writing on IC boards, but I've never tried it...might be what you're looking for, but it costs $150 a gallon, it's impossible to find (yes, I've tried) and if it's caustic enough to eat into silicon, I'd hate to see what it would do to bare skin....ugh. Brake fluid isn't all it's cracked up to be, btw. I actually found that it's formulated to NOT be corrosive, since if it was, it would eat through brake lines and therefore be more of a liability. I'd add PP (potassium permanganate) or gentian violet since they are actually made to stain surfaces, but I have limited first-hand experience with these and therefore cannot vouch for them, beyond what I've heard here and from friends who have tried them. 2)I've thought of sanding stuff before to prime the surface, but I expect transit to get buffed quickly and I'm not sure if it's worth the added effort. It is a good idea, though. I was going to take a piece of griptape and wrap it around my pen, then just give it a few quick swipes before I hit it. How about that? 3)XK-70 (Garvey) has an advertised contact dry time of 45-90 seconds. As a rule, I'd take that time and multiply it by ten...so, 15 minutes seems to be a good number. Hope all this helps. And, here is the newest in new in my arsenal (drum roll, please)..... [attachmentid=22056] The first bottle is Specialty ink, black acetone base. One of the best inks I've ever found...it's like Pilot, but better. And, I doubt it's made anymore thanks to the EPA. The second one is a can of BLUE marsh. Harbor blue. Need I say more? I'm going out with a mop of this tonight, I think. The little guy is Tria Pantone black process, to refill Chartpaks with. Finally, I have some good GOT-DAMN shit to roll with...I'll post photos of the damage later. :ballcap: