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[Mainter]

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hey for the viewers what the hell do you want to see posted here add yer comments

 

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[23578]

Originally posted by Mainter@Mar 25 2006, 11:35 PM

i will make something up for you and tell me what you think

Quoted post

cool, thanks, i'm going to bed now, i'll check back in the morning.

[Mainter]

Step 1: Choose a Processor

is the Athlon 64 3700+. This is available for $235 from Newegg.com.

 

Step 2: Choose a Graphics Card

Right, next we need to look for a graphics card. A list of good performance video cards can be found here. However, I personally choose the GeForce 7800 GT card to be our choice in building this rig. The card is available for about $383.

 

Step 3: Choose a Motherboard

Alrighty then, the motherboard is next. The MSI K8N Neo4 SLI motherboard, available for $123 from Newegg.com is a very good choice. It has all the features you need, including a nForce4 SLI chipset. This comes with an extra PCI Express slot should you want to upgrade in future.

 

Step 4: Choose Memory

For performance, a lot of memory is needed. I’d say that around 1GB of Corsair ValueSelect DDR400 would suffice for our system. This is selling at $89.75 from Newegg.com.

 

Step 5: Choose a Hard Drive

We need lots of hard drive space for storing our games, videos, photos and music files. One of the best deals I’ve found is the Maxtor DiamondMax 10 6L300S0 – it gives you a whopping 300 GB. What’s more, its SATA enabled too. This goes for $129.99 at Newegg.com (an unbelievable price, by the way).

 

Step 6: Choose a Case

"Fill that in casek" I tend to lean towards a RAIDMAX Cobra case from Newegg.com. This sells for about $45 and comes with a powerful 420W power supply unit. RAIDMAX is not a good powersuppy for gaming i would also lean towards Antec Sonata II buts thats another 60.00 so yer choice

 

Step 7: Choose a DVD Drive

Last step is to choose a DVD drive. I’d reckon that a good DVD drive is the NEC ND-3520A drive. It’s not a writer – only a DVD-ROM. This unit sells at around $42.

 

So Lets Put It Together:

Well, that’s it! Total price of the components above? somewhere around $1200.00 I hope I've managed to show you the ingredients for cooking up a great gaming PC on a budget. Trust me, this system ain’t no pushover. It can perform. Try it out and let me know the results

 

casek do you got any suggestions here?

[Mainter]

oh i forgot get a operating system get xp pro for 90.00 that last time i checked

[Mainter Digerati]

iPod Diagnostics

iPod, Technology, Howto

 

Here are the steps to enter the diagnostic mode of your ipod. They come from http://www.methodshop.com/mp3/ipodsupport/...ode/index.shtml

1. You need to restart your iPod before putting it into Diagnostic Mode. Check that your hold switch is off by sliding the switch away from the headphone jack. Toggle it on and off to be safe.

 

2. Press and hold the following combination of buttons buttons simultaneously for approximately 10 seconds to reset the iPod.

 

* iPod 1G to 3G: “Menu� and “Play/Pause�

* iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): “Menu� and “Select�

 

3. The Apple logo will appear and you should feel the hard drive spinning up. Press and hold the following sequence of buttons:

 

o iPod 1G to 3G: “REW�, “FFW� and “Select�

o iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): “Back� and “Select�

 

You will hear an audible chirp sound (3G models and higher) and the Apple logo should appear backwards. You are now in Diagnostic Mode.

 

4. Navigate the list of tests using “REW� and “FFW�. The scroll wheel will not function while in diagnostic mode.

 

Here’s a breakdown of the tests. To cancel a test, just press the MENU button:

Memory:

The Memory tests include diagnostic procedures for your iPod’s SDRAM, IRAM and FLASH memory.SDRAM: The RAM memory test. The SDRAM Fulltest will take several minutes. A successful pass result is “SDRAM OK.�IRAM: Not sure exactly what this test does. It takes several moments to load before running a quick test and rebooting your iPod.FLASH: This test will do a checksum test of your iPod’s flash memory.

IO:

Comms: This tests the communication ports of your iPod including USB, FireWire and Remote. If the Remote is not connected to your iPod at the time of the test, you can expect a NG (no good) for the HP (headphone-port). Wheel: This option has two tests, Keytest and Wheeltest. Push each button once to pass the Keytest. The Wheeltest just gives you a coordinate of where your finger is on the Click-Wheel. LCD: This option has two tests, Backlight (0 to 255; 128 is the default) and Color. Much like a VRAM test, the Color test will run through a series of colors, patterns and gradients.HeadphoneDetect: This test checks the Hold Switch and Headphone port. HardDrive: This option has four tests.

 

* HDSpecs will tell you everything from hard drive temperature to serial number.

* HDScan scans your iPod’s hard drive. This is a great way to see if you have a healthy iPod and if your hard drive is fragmented. This test will take a few minutes so be patient.

* HDSMARTData returns SMART data for professional repair applications and personnel.

* HDRW tests the ability of your hard drive to RW (read and write data).

 

Audio: This option has two tests. Playback plays an audio sample to make sure your iPod can produce sound. MIC tests your iPods ability to record audio.

Power:

A2DTests: This test has multiple sub tests.

 

* PhilipsID checks the power system of your iPod

* A2D lists a series of A2D (analog to digital) tests.

 

Status:

Status displays the status of several of your iPod’s key systems.

 

* Sharp: LCD screen

* HP: headphones. Are they connected? [0 = no, 1 = yes]

* FWPWR: FireWire power. Is your FireWire cable charging your iPod?

* USBPWR: USB power. Is your USB cable charging your iPod?

 

SysCfg:

SysCfg: System Configuration. This lists your iPod’s hardware version, serial numbers, and part number.

 

For older ipods (1st gen to 4th gen)

 

Here’s a breakdown of the tests:

A. 5 IN 1:

This runs the following 5 tests at once: LCM, SDRAM, RTC, FLASH/CHECKSUM, and FIREWIRE/FW ID. If you have a 3G iPod, at the end of the test, your buttons will now play a series of sound effects.

B. RESET:

Can your iPod reset? Run this test and find out.

C. KEY:

After you start this test, you need to press all the buttons on your iPod. If you don’t do it fast enough it will fail.

D. AUDIO:

Plug in headphones. This test checks the audio subsystem.

E. REMOTE:

This will test your remote if you have one. Plug it in or the test result will be “RMT FAIL�.

F.FIREWARE:

Checks your iPod’s FireWire port. A successful completion of the test will return�FW PASS�.

G. SLEEP:

Will put your iPod to sleep. You will need to reset your iPod to wake it back up.

H. A 2 D:

Tests the iPod’s power. The results will be different depending if your iPod is plugged into your computer, a wall outlet or is just running off battery power.

I. OTPO CNT:

Tests your scroll wheel. Results are returned in hexadecimal.

J. LCM:

The LCM is your iPod’s screen. Keep pressing the “Select� button to toggle through several pattern tests.

K. RTC:

Tests the iPod’s built-in “Real Time Clock�.

L. SDRAM:

The RAM test. Hopefully it will tell you “PASS�

M. FLASH:

This gives you your firmware.

N. OTPO or

Wheel A2D:

Tests the A2D (analog to digital) input of your iPod’s scroll, touch or click-wheel. You need to reset your iPod to exit this test.

O. HDD SCAN:

Scans your iPod’s hard drive. This is a great way to see if you have a healthy iPod. This test will take a few minutes so be patient.

P. RUN IN:

Tests your iPod’s chip sets continuously.

 

To get your iPod out of Diagnostic Mode, you will have to restart it again.

 

Again, this all comes from http://www.methodshop.com/mp3/ipodsupport/...ode/index.shtml and I take no credit for the creation of this article.

[Mainter Digerati]

So, it's time to tweak your memory to get maximum performance out of it eh? After playing around with a LOT of memory, I've sorta settled on what I think is a good way to overclock memory. It might not be the fastest, as there is a lot of testing and tweaking involved, but you'll be sure to learn a lot about what the memory can do, and see if there's any hitches along the way.

 

 

Introduction of Basics

 

Before we really get started however, we should go over a few things about memory first. Most notably voltage and timings, as they have a large impact on the clock speeds, performance, stability and lifespan of your memory. First, the timings. I'm only gonna go over the 4 main ones in this article, the rest can be covered another time. Typically, memory comes with a rating that looks like "2.5-3-3-7" or something along that line. those 4 timings are:

 

Cas latency (Tcl or cas)

- with ddr1 you have the option of 2.0, 2.5 or 3.0, ddr2 give 3, 4, 5 and 6.. we may see higher, but I certainly hope not. Some boards allow the use of cas1.5 for ddr1, but in most cases (except the DFI Expert and Venus, and maybe another board or two I don't know of), cas1.5 is actually just a wee smidge slower than cas2.0, because it's not really setting 1.5. Moderate effect on performance, in most cases, Trcd and Trp have a bigger effect

 

Ras to Cas Delay (Trcd)

- This timing tends to have the largest effect on performance. Options range from 0 to 7, with 0 and 1 being basically unobtainable except for in the rarest of BH-5 sticks. Anything over 4 is usually overkill, and incurs a pretty hefty performance hit.

 

Ras Precharge (Trp)

- Slightly less of an effect on performance than Trcd, but more than Tcl. Same options as Trcd though, and same for the <2 is hard to get and >4 is overkill for getting clocks and hurts performance needlessly.

 

Minimum RAS Active Time (Tras)

- A very small effect on performance and clocks, enough so that I typically disregard it and set it to cas + trcd + 2. Options range from 0 to 15.

 

For the voltage, keep two things in mind:

1. More voltage isn't always better. Know which memory IC your sticks have, and keep voltages within known ranges. If you don't know what chips you have, staying below 2.9v is a safe bet.

2. More voltage increases temps and decreases lifespan. Some IC's can take it, some can't. A good example would be Samsung TCCD vs Winbond BH-5. The former usually dies pretty rapidly if left at 2.9-3.0v for 24/7 use, while the latter can take 3.6v in a stride, and most likely the components on the PCB would fail before the IC's themselves.

 

OC'ing Procedure

Ok, for the testing, I like to do something like this: Find lowest timings possible at whatever the stock speed of your motherboard is. Say that I have some pc4400 (275mhz) and put it into a Athlon64 rig, the memory will automatically run at 200mhz. Find the tightest timings at these speeds.

Next, raise the timings one at a time until you find the one that makes the largest mhz increase over your previous timings, and find the max. repeat until you get to 3-4-4 timings.

 

For a more explicit breakdown, I'll explain what to do more explicitly, and at the same time, give examples with a pair of memory I have sitting around.

 

Get memtest and install it on a floppy or cd if you don't have a motherboard that has it on the bios (DFI). Boot with the memtest floppy/cd in to make sure it boots into that instead of your normal OS. Once you have confirmed this, hit escape to reboot and then go into the bios.

 

What we're gonna do first is find the tightest timings the ram can run at stock speeds. First, set all the timings to the rated speed of the ram, no auto's should be seen for Tcl, Trcd, Trp or Tras :D

 

From here, we will work on one timing at a time. start with cas latency (Tcl)

1. lower it one step, save bios and restart, boot into memtest

2. In memtest, change to test #5, loop it two or three times

3. if you get no errors, go back to step 1, if you do get errors, continue to 4

4. raise timing one step, and go back into memtest and let it run through a few full passes. If you do not have the patience for this, loop test 5, 6 and 8 at least 3-4 times each. you should not get errors.

 

Repeat the above for Trcd, and Trp. Adjust Tras when needed to keep it equal to Tcl + Trcd + 2

 

When completed all 3 timings, write down what they are somewhere safe. We have just completed the first step!

 

 

Now, the where the real fun begins. We're gonna find the maximum speed at each set of timings, however, it's gonna take a long time :)

1. Bump up the fsb/htt 2-3 mhz

2. Boot into memtest, do 2-3 loops of test #5

3. If no errors, go to 1, if errors, continue to 4

4. Lower fsb/htt 1mhz

5. Go into memtest, and let memtest run. If you get

any errors, go back to 4. Once you can loop memtest for ~3 hours per gigabyte in your system, write down the mhz obtained along with the timings and voltage it took to get there. I recommend making a chart for this, tabulating the maximum mhz at each set of timings and voltage.

 

 

Now we have two options: bump up memory voltage, or raise the timings. Either way you go, follow the above steps. You should always test things systematically.

 

If you decide to increase voltage, be sure to only change voltage, leave all the timings alone. One rule I try to follow at all times when overclocking is only change one variable at a time. If more than one is changed at once, you don't know how much each is effecting things.

Start out at stock voltage (2.6v for ddr1 and 1.8v for ddr2) and test .1v higher, find max, .1v higher, find max, etc.. until you decide that the voltage is high enough.

This will vary for all IC's, refer to the quick guide for IC's at the end of this guide. Be very careful with voltage, as some can fail prematurely if you give it too much. Also, always be aware of the temps your sticks are running at when overclocking.

 

 

For the timings, you should change one timing at a time until you find which ones make a significant effect on max mhz. This is something that will take a bit of playing around and guesswork until you find something that works out well. Again, be sure to only change on timing at once, and do not touch the voltage at this time.

 

Example of Procedure

 

Here's an example to give an idea of what exactly all that means:

 

Let's say I want to overclock my crucial Ballistix PC3200 2x512mb kit. I have found it's tightest timings at 200mhz to be 2-2-2-6. I find the max mhz with these timings to be 217mhz with 2.6v.

I try the following combinations and find the max speed at each:

2.5-2-2-6 = 250mhz

2.0-3-2-6 = 219mhz

2.0-2-3-6 = 217mhz

So from this, it's obvious that the timings I should work on next would be 2.5-2-2-6, as it had the highest mhz increase over the previous set of timings. I now write down 2.5-2-2-6 in my chart, and that it does 250mhz at 2.6v

 

Then from 2.5-2-2, I would find the next set of timings that give me the highest bump, I test:

3.0-2-2-7 = 250mhz

2.5-3-2-7 = 259mhz

2.5-2-3-7 = 250mhz

This time, I find that the difference is less noticable, but raising Trp raises the speed to 259mhz while Tcl and Trcd don't get a single mhz. This means the next set of timings I would write down in my chart would be 2.5-3-2-7, 259mhz at 2.6v

 

Just keep working along the lines of the above examples until you reach 3-4-4. Higher than this is not worthwhile testing for ddr1, for ddr2, I think I would stop at 6-6-6-15

When you're all done with your testing with both timings and voltage, you should have a chart that looks somewhat like this:

 

 

 

 

 

Now, it's important to note that even though there are no errors in memtest, the above settings may still be a bit unstable in windows. I would reccommend dropping the fsb/htt down ~10-15mhz, go into windows, and use clockgen to slowly approach the number you wrote down while running prime95 in blend mode. Most likely, the number of mhz that one setting is off from being stable, the rest will be pretty close to being the same, which should be something handy to keep in mind when finalizing the above numbers. Luckily, you don't need to test them all, only the ones that seem like they'll match up with your desired settings well. If you get exceptionally bored one day, you know what to do to keep occupied!

 

Helpful Hints

 

If at any point along the way you find that you can't get higher mhz, try to figure out what is holding you back. It can be your cpu running at too high mhz, your memory controller maxing out, your motherboard hitting a limit, or your memory simply not scaling well past the timings you're at. Just use some common sense and see if you can get around the limitation by fiddling around with stuff :D

 

Also, this is just the tip of the iceberg for some boards. With boards that are oriented towards overclockers like DFI, you get the aforementioned 4 timings, Trc, Trfc, Trrd, Twr, Twtr, Trwt, Tref, bank interleaving, the drive strength from the memory controller, the max async latency and read preamble, idle cycle limit, and ability to toggle the counter that limit controls, along with read/write queue bypass, and the bypass max.

Once you start messing with all those to fine tune an ram oc to get the last couple mhz, or get better performance at a given mhz and primary 4 timings, things get pretty intense. Fortunately, there's a few rules of thumb you can follow, and tweaking those aren't too different than the primary 4, but looser isn't always better ;)

 

Small IC Guide

 

Now, the quick guide on some common performance ram chips..

 

Winbond BH:

(old + new school)

basically the ram that has turned into a myth of sorts. normally does around 240-270mhz.. not great in itself, but the thing to remember is that it can do it at 2-2-2 timings. the downside is that it typically needs 3.2-3.5v to do that. Also, higher latencies do not help much.. forget about cas3, it shouldn't boot. cas2.5 often isn't as stable, or simply does not get many more mhz. Try not to go higher than 3.5-3.6v unless benching, and be sure that your system is up to taking that much voltage for long term use.

 

UTT-CH:

(new ch)

known to be in OCZ VX, twinmosSP and some Mushkin Redline modules. It's similar to bh-5, in the fact that it likes lots of voltage and generally likes 2-2-2 timings. CH seems to scale with voltage better than BH, but it needs around 3.1v to to get down to 2-2-2 to begin with. Being a smaller process size, it's not as safe to pump CH dies as much voltage as BH. I wouldn't go over 3.4v for 24/7

 

Samsung TCCD/TCC5:

 

Been around for a little while. It had.. a cult like following for a while, which I find amusing, though it's for a good reason.. anywho, the premise of this stuff is that you can do really high speeds (often 300mhz+ with good sticks) and doesn't need much voltage. The downside is that it needs higher timings to get there. Expect to have to raise timings to 2.5-4-4 or 2.5-4-3 to get the most out TCCD/TCC5. Also be prepared to do a little bit of testing to find which voltage works best, some sticks actually start decreasing performance if you give them more than 2.7-2.8v, while some can take up to 3v. with newer tccd/tcc5, it seems that more than 2.8v will hurt then after prolonged periods of time, while the older chips can take a bit more, and actually scale really well at cas2 with lots of voltage, but die really fast if you do that.

 

Samsung UCCC:

 

Though it is kinda "value-oriented" as far as 64mb IC's go, proper binning can get you 250MHz 3-4-4-8 or 3-4-3-8. Typically top out around 270-280MHz, though sticks have been recorded at 300MHz. OCZ and G.Skill have a wide variety of sticks with these chips. Other manufacturers known to use them are Corsair, Mushkin, Teamgroup, and Crucial.

 

Micron 5b G:

 

this is sorta a mix between BH-5 and TCCD. With properly binned sticks, it can do 2-2-2 timings up to a moderate speed (typically 220-225mhz without going nuts with voltage). The sweet spot is usually with 2.5-2-2; 250mhz at 2.7-2.9v and 2.5-2-2 seems typical with 5b G, with more possible with additional voltage. It also scales well with timings too, though not as well as TCCD does, with 3-3-3 being best for hitting highest mhz (around 275-310 usually). 5b G can take 3.0-3.2v pretty reliably when properly cooled, though it will cut into it's lifespan a bit. if you get it in value ram, simply subtract ~10-40mhz from the above numbers, depending on your luck :)

 

Micron 5b D & 5b F:

 

Similar to 5b G, but is typically a 64mb IC instead of 32mb. Being a smaller process, 110nm for D and 95nm for F, don't give these as much voltage, around 2.9v and 2.7-2.8v seems to be best, and at 3-3-3. Be exceptionally careful with 5b D, as it seems to have a very high failure rate.

 

Infineon CE-5/CE-6:

 

These can be considered the BH series of 1GB sticks (though not to me), minus the high voltage. Though they are usually limited to around 260-270MHz, they make up for that with lower timings than the other 64mb IC's. Infineon chips are usually binned to 250MHz 3-3-2, which is not half-bad at all. Usually they will go up to 260-270MHz 3-3-2.

[Mainter Digerati]

Dell may buy Alienware

[Mainter Digerati]

sweet keyboard http://www.artlebedev.com/portfolio/optimus/

[Mainter Digerati]

[23578]

Step 1: Choose a Processor

AMD Athlon 64 FX55 San Diego 1GHz HT Socket 939 Processor Model ADAFX55BNBOX$660 (normally 810, saved 150 on combo with mobo)

 

Step 2: Choose a Graphics Card

ATI All-In-Wonder 2006 Edition 256MB DDR3 VIVO PCI Express x16 Video Card $179

 

Step 3: Choose a Motherboard

MSI K8N Diamond Plus Socket 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI X16 ATX AMD Motherboard $179

 

Step 4: Choose Memory

Patriot Signature Series 1GB (2 x 512MB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Unbuffered Dual Channel Kit System Memory Model $68

 

Step 5: Choose a Hard Drive

We need lots of hard drive space for storing our games, videos, photos and music files. One of the best deals I’ve found is the Maxtor DiamondMax 10 6L300S0 – it gives you a whopping 300 GB. What’s more, its SATA enabled too. This goes for $129.99 at Newegg.com (an unbelievable price, by the way).

 

Step 6: Choose a Case

Antec TRUEPOWERII TPII-550 ATX12V 550W Power Supply $83.99

COOLER MASTER Centurion 532 RC-532-SKN1 Black Aluminum bezel, SECC chassis ATX Mid Tower Computer Case$45

 

Step 7: Choose a DVD Drive

Last step is to choose a DVD drive. I’d reckon that a good DVD drive is the NEC ND-3520A drive. It’s not a writer – only a DVD-ROM. This unit sells at around $42.

 

 

Well that comes in around 1500 after 30 in shipping and minus the mail in rebates($50) plus a cooling fan, what do you think, is this going to work, or am i going to have lots of (unsolvable) problems, is this too much computer for my needs, and does the decrease in graphics card hurt the gaming capabilities of the system?

[lord_casek]

that is one bad ass computer. here's a scoop, though. downgrade on the graphics card to one of ati's cheaper cards. stick with 128 megs of video ram at very least. you can buy a lite-on or iomagic dvd player at wal mart for 24$, you can also buy a cheaper case at newegg, but make sure it fits your mobo (or vice versa).

 

good stuff, though.

 

now, for my question: i need Microsoft Device Emulator 1.0 Community Preview anyone got a copy? ms won't let me download the .msi

(yes, i have an a ccount)

[lord_casek]

http://dealsvengali.com/News/article/sid=7146.html

 

$629 for a bangin computer with a 19 inch lcd.

[23578]

Originally posted by lord_casek@Mar 26 2006, 11:41 AM

http://dealsvengali.com/News/article/sid=7146.html

 

$629 for a bangin computer with a 19 inch lcd.

Quoted post

d00d, should i get a dell? yeah, i did, what can i say, i'm just too poor, don't hate.

[Mainter]

yeah get a dell xps

 

i really hate to admit it but they built a good basic gaming computer

[Lonesome Cowboy Bill]

^^ yeah i was looking at those...I'd rather build, but it gets too complicated and time consuming...the only thing i hate is all the add-on software they give...so I think I might just get the dell when I have mo loot that is

[Lonesome Cowboy Bill]

oh yeah, what do people think of sony vaios? that slim cpu looks cool... it has a fingerprint log-on too...

[23578]

yeah, i upped some of the options so it would work out better for gaming, that they threw in the monitor, that clinched it for me it will be nice to get rid of this small and hulking crt. like cowboy says though, there is a crapload of stuff installed that i'm going to want to delete so definately look forward to helping me out on that, software not being one of my strongpoints.

[Mainter]

sony viao is pretty good but like any other store brand computer you are paying for add-on software that you will not use they will put at least 1200 dollars of software that you will never use or that you can download for free the finger print thing is not ready for market yet its realyl easy to hack it will read anything and it gets worn down a little candle wax on the finger while you sleep with a little school glue let dry break the wax and there is your finger

[lord_casek]

are you joking me? seriously,

candle wax?

 

n00b

 

 

the gelatinous material gummy bears are made of and a fingerprint off of a glass or whatever you lift it from (the scanner itself..wink wink) works just fine.

 

no joke. and no, i'm not mossad.

[lord_casek]

photolithography...

[Mainter]

Originally posted by lord_casek@Mar 26 2006, 03:16 PM

are you joking me? seriously,

candle wax?

 

n00b

 

 

the gelatinous material gummy bears are made of and a fingerprint off of a glass or whatever you lift it from (the scanner itself..wink wink) works just fine.

 

no joke. and no, i'm not mossad.

Quoted post

 

 

lol yeah i was giving a example there is many ways to get past it hell you can just disable it

[johnny ballbags]

Originally posted by Mainter Digerati@Mar 26 2006, 03:14 AM

sweet keyboard http://www.artlebedev.com/portfolio/optimus/

Quoted post

 

where can i get one?

[Mainter]

Optimus

Keyboard with OLED screens embedded in every key. Don’t expect until late 2006

you can buy it from the site when it comes available

[Mainter]

http://www.ephpod.com/

 

what it is: EphPod is a full-featured, easy-to-use Windows application that connects with Apple's iPod. With a FireWire card and EphPod on a PC, it takes under 30 minutes to transfer 1,000 songs to an iPod. In addition, EphPod supports standard WinAmp (.M3U) playlists, includes powerful playlist creation features, and will synchronize an entire music collection with one click. It imports Microsoft Outlook contacts, in addition to allowing users to create and edit their own contacts. EphPod can also download the latest news, weather, e-books, and movie listings to an iPod.

[Herbivore]

Originally posted by 23578@Mar 26 2006, 11:13 AM

Step 1: Choose a Processor

AMD Athlon 64 FX55 San Diego 1GHz HT Socket 939 Processor Model ADAFX55BNBOX$660 (normally 810, saved 150 on combo with mobo)

Quoted post

That's a ridiculously expensive processor. Is that the AMD equivalent to the Extreme Edition Pentiums or something? I don't think you need all that...

[Mainter]

Originally posted by Herbivore+Mar 27 2006, 09:38 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Herbivore - Mar 27 2006, 09:38 AM)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-23578@Mar 26 2006, 11:13 AM

Step 1: Choose a Processor

AMD Athlon 64 FX55 San Diego 1GHz HT Socket 939 Processor Model ADAFX55BNBOX$660 (normally 810, saved 150 on combo with mobo)

Quoted post

That's a ridiculously expensive processor. Is that the AMD equivalent to the Extreme Edition Pentiums or something? I don't think you need all that...

Quoted post

[/b]

its not an AMD equivalent AMD is on its own intel just buys other company emploeyes intel sucks

 

but yeah its good for major gaming it will provide years of upgrades in the computer world so if he gots the money now might as well buy it

[lord_casek]

dude, 2356812 got a dell.

 

[Mainter]

http://www.eyeos.org/

 

Welcome to eyeOS, a web based desktop system. With eyeOS you can access your data and your applications anywhere, anytime. A virtual office in your hands, no need to install anything in the computer. Everything lives in the browser, for you and your work colleagues. eyeOS is open source and free software. Set up freely an account on our servers or, if you prefer it, install it in your server. Make your life easier with the virtual word processor, calendar, file manager, messenger, browser and other applications. And if you want more applications, just visit the eyeOS Application Database!

[Mainter]

Boot up Windows before you even log in

 

If you don’t use any Windows XP login security, then you can skip this article. Otherwise, if you are like many Windows XP users who have to enter a password every time their computer sluggishly boots up, then read this!

 

Ok. Here’s the scenario:

 

You have to wait 2 minutes while your computer turns on. You have to sit in front of your computer during this whole time because once it finally gets to the login screen, you have to type in the password. The computer then crunches numbers for another 2 minutes while it loads a wide variety of programs (MSN messenger, your Norton Antivirus, your Microsoft Office shortcut bar, etc…). Finally, after like 5 minutes, you have access to your desktop.

 

How would you like your computer to load all those programs *before* you ever have to enter your password? You could press the button to power up your system and go get a cup of coffee. Five minutes later, you come to your desk and type in your password. BAM! Instantly dropped to the desktop! Your programs are already running and all systems are a go!

 

Here’s how to do it:

 

1. Download Microsoft’s free TweakUI tool and install it.

2. Click your Start button, go to your Programs menu, and select Tweak UI from the “Powertoys for Windows XP� folder.

3. In the TweakUI window, double-click the “Logon� item in the left-hand column to expand it.

4. Click on the “Autologon� item underneath the “Logon� section.

5. Check the box that says “Log on automatically at system startup�

6. Click the “Set Password� button and enter in your windows login password

7. Click OK and close Tweak UI.

8. Download this .reg file and run it. When it asks you if you want to merge it with your registry, choose “Yes�.

 

NOTE: If you feel queasy about merging a reg file with your registry, you can also add it by hand. Go to Start > Run and type in “regedit� and press OK. Browse to [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run] and create a new String Value. Name it “Lock Computer on Startup“, and set the value to “rundll32.exe user32.dll, LockWorkStation“

[johnny ballbags]

^^im definitely doin that ish when i get home.. and if my shit fucks up im blamin it all on you mainter