Ko SprueOne

looks like O scale? The layout ground work build and painting looks good Is it in a shipping and receiving warehouse or something? thanks for sharing the pics!

Absolutely fantastic work I see what you mean about the importance of lighting Thanks for the heads up on this

WOW, I'm gonna look this up. These are your shots of the show? Nice! I think 1/12 scale would be an adult human would be about 6 inches tall, so those dioramas/sets look super real real

cool cool. HO is a fun scale and provides many directions and products. HO models can actually get very complex and detailed. It depends on how far you want to take it Check out the MODEL TRAINS thread in the Metal Heads forum sure no prob. Hope it was useful information for your project. The end result will vary by following these steps. No two models by two different builders will look exactly alike

right on, It's good to see an interest. Drybrushing is with a dry brush. I usually do this in three stages of consecutively lighter shades of the base color. Start with the base color, 1 octave lighter. You can use the original color then add a drop of yellow or white. Do not over do this and end up with white from the start. Have patients and the visual reward will pay off. First get a little paint on a wide, stiff brush. This one is a flat No. 10 Wipe off the paint onto a clean paper towel until there is barely any left on the brush With a scrubing motion with the brush, hit all the details and contours and panel lines, etc This first color is barely visible in the pictures and not much change in person either. It's there and it's subtle. The 2nd color should be a little lighter shade than the 1st color. Drybrush this 2nd color into all the surfaces as you do the 1st color. Each step should be as subtle as the previous step. Be patient The 3rd and lightest of the 3 shades can be applied to certain places like the air intake grilles and other details you want to visually 'pop out' The last image shows; scale color modulation and depth. Weathering has not started yet such as chipped paint, rust streaks, and dirt and mud if needed. This was just to get to the scale shadows and forced visual highlights that you see in 1/1 scale world but sometimes don't realize it Mr. Inc', when you get to this step and want to go forward with mud or rust, let me know

Ok, back on track. A "wash" is thinned color, so thin that it is just tinted thinner. For a military vehicle like this I used a dark brown/black mixture with mineral spirits enamel thinner. notice it's just tinted thinner. This is a no.2 size brush the wash is brushed in and around raised and recessed detail lines. This is called "pin-washing" in some of the open areas, I blotched the wash around randomly to achieve color depth. After about an hour or two (this time frame is for enamel washes), I came back with a piece of paper towel and just dampened the tip with clean thinner. Wiping away from the raised details and open areas leaves the darker pigment in the corners and recessed areas only. Let this dry for at least 24 hours. Next will be the dry brushing to pick out the details

Had some time today after work to apply a decal. Solvaset was used. There are other decal setting solution products available. This is a must for scale models. This solvent softens the decal and helps it conform to the model angles and settle into detail where needed. The star is on a flat surface so it's not the greatest example of this

48 hours after basecoat color was sprayed, I brushed on the Future This makes the surface gloss/semi gloss. This will dry in approx. 3 hours. Then it's time to apply the kit supplied decals if you want to use these. This also creates a surface for the 'wash' to flow smoothly into and around. I'll continue this Friday or by this weekend

Ok, cool. The label on the Model Master paint can reads that it needs to set for at least 48 hours before applying another enamel coat on top. This includes enamel washes and dry brushing. I sprayed this about 24 hours ago, so the Future gloss coat will continue tomorrow about this time Acrylics will not usually effect enamel base coats. It's important to take your time and understand how chemicals act and react with each other so you don't fck up your model that you probably already invested cash and time into

yeah for sure, here in the thread. Enamels will work if that's all you have right now. This step-by-step will be enamel Everyone else hold off on posting random posts here until we get through the painting weathering stage. Any posts that are questions and comments to this specific subject is welcome. After the building of the model is done, you need to spray a base coat of an Olive Drab color. I used Model Master Olive Drab sprayed from the can. These cans are designed for models so the pressure and color density is just right for military models. If you can find this product locally, then get some. If not then I also assume you already have aerosol colors in the 12 oz variety. If this is what you have then that will work too. Just spray the color on carefully so you don't cover and clog up all the details. A couple light coats will do Get a bottle of Future Floor Acrylic. This will be the barrier between certain coats picture of Future: http://www.f-15e.info/howto/matt_01/pics/01.jpg Also, get a paint brush set from size; 0 to about 1/2" flat. These can be cheepees if you want I base coated a sample piece after work tonight. This will dry over night and the step-by-step will continue nightly or approximately nightly. Each step takes about a day to dry so it doesn't get fcked up

Mr. Inc, Spray the base coat 'olive drab green' first. What type of weathering paints do you have or can get? Enamels? Water based Acrylics? I'll walk you step-by-step through this weathering. This is my favorite part

hah, none yet, I haven't started it currently working on two other projects: 1/35 HMMWV and a 1/25 '55 Chevy PU stepside

They produced another one. kit VS-002 yeah I bought it

thanks, that's what I said in the store and it's almost 100% accurate

?MOOGLE - yup that's it, model kits and accessories Master Shake - I saw one of those kits that you're working on online before. The Aerosan kit does include one figure but not two, so good point on that

Re: Trumpeter Aerosan NKL-26 1/35 Finally in 1/35 ! by Trumpeter, (armored) Aerosan NKL-26 just in time for this winter's early snow!

.. still cool none the less :smiles: picked up a Walthers Gold Line Autorack in HO today. Dig the details!! I kept looking at it on the shelf but finally said fckit and got it. Far more depth and details than my other set of rolling stock autoracks

yes, I like the Articulated Auto Rack. Don't have any yet but would make a nice contribution to the collection I have one of those too. It's a bi-level then

nice, I've just recently bought a few autoracks in HO for future weathering and painting projects. What RR company and style car is the 'KING' painted on?

models... Images from the 2011 MMSI show Images from the 2011 MMSI show from Chilihead mostly military and some sci-fi /fantasy http://www.network54.com/Forum/676572/thread/1319376379/last-1319376379/Images+from+the+2011+MMSI+show Thanks Mr. Chills!

is this kit the 1/72 by UM?

Kerner Optical is in Chapter 7 http://www.variety.com/article/VR1118043645?refCatId=1009

the account name posts a few interesting vids on the subject

The Toyota pick up w/ZPU-1 AA gun mounted in back by MENG just arrived in the mail from Hong Kong. First check out the designer box art. The i-sheets. The i-sheets are glossy paper like a magazine. The first page illustrates options for scratch building or indicates future kit options. The last page shows painting guide suggestions. The box art of the machine gun operator figure in the back sports a sweat jacket of a popular company. Upon closer inspection, we notice how the logo is modified enough to get away without paying license fees. The figure molding is not very impressive, however is a unique and rare subject in this scale. The contents of this kit is internally packaged carefully too. This is a left side drive vehicle. Overall I am impressed with this unique kit of a subject that I am very interested in for building. I should have advanced my nerdery and bought two, one to build and one to keep...

Very very impressive. Looks to be 1/16 scale? I didn't read the whole article in the link you provided. It's bigger than the 1/35 M26 Recovery Tractor sitting next to it on the display table