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rubbish heap two

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Posts posted by rubbish heap two

  1. bar tape:

    cloth tape is gay if your not racing track only. try the new fizik tape. its pretty thin and kinda like leather. its very nice wet, im loving it.

     

    hubs:

    man up and spend the cheese and be classy. campy, dura ace, or phils. fuck the rest. miche if your on a budget i guess.

     

    ahh fuck, too late, i already got the cotton. it's pretty chill for now, i don't know aboutlonger rides but i'd just put on gloves anyway.

  2. i need a set of track hubs.

    nothing is really blowing my mind.

    i was going to go with campy to match my crankset,

    but the price even at shop cost is awfully steep.

    i would get formulas new solid flange cup/ballers,

    but as of now they are only available in 36s.

    i need 32 x 36, as i already bought the rims.

    any recommendations?

     

    formula's sealed HF hubs maybe? formula is the best value there is. miche and gran compe are some other ones to consider. if it's really important to get looseball for you, dura ace hubs can be had for like 175 a pair shipped on bikepartsusa.com

  3. what's the best bar tap for rainy riding? i'm running cork (or maybe it's synthetic cork) tape right now and it's slipping and providing less than optimal grip in the wet. cork tape slipping all over my bars = shitty feeling. i was thinking of going to cloth tape because it's thinner and would dry out a lot faster, does this work well in practice?

  4. the numbers i say relate only to steal, but yeah, mostly old. new steel, you wanty to look for reynolds 853/953, columbus genius/whatever the hell else columbus makes (they have a website), kaisei 019/017/8630 (the best :)), ummm that's all i can think of for now.

  5. if you have an old hi-tensile steel frame than upgrading to a little more modern tubing like 4130 chromoly will shave some weight. look for reynolds 531 decals on the classic european bikes, and ishiwata 019 / 017 or tange champ no. 1 / 2 on japanese ones. also, double/triple/quad butted are things to look for in the tubing sticker.

  6. the portland rain is here!! i love rainy day rides. fenders and snowboard jackets are gonna be the cut pretty soon. so stoked that i found a pair of conti 4 season's in a dumpster...

  7. Question: yay or nay on derailleurs for winter riding? i've heard salt can play horrors with the shifting.

     

    i say nay... but that's half the reason i ride fixed. brakeless riding in the winter is my favorite, you just need some quality tires (conti 4 season) and some fenders and your set, the bike stops easier than a set of coaster brakes and the only thing to worry about is cleaning/lubing your chain from time to time (assuming you're not running any loose ball type shit). i'm a guy that likes low maintenance and peace of mind for the most part, even though any bike is going to eventually have something break down on it.

     

     

     

     

     

     

    i just got my rollers in the mail today. pretty fun to ride, though 10 minutes on them makes you look like you just got out of a swimming pool. now i gotta tool around with ways to add a little resistance (lowering the tire pressure maybe?).

  8. Nice, what frame did you end up getting? 63 seems pretty damn low... when I started, I was at 60 not by preference but just because that was what the bike i bought was geared at, and that was ridiculously low for portland. right now i'm at 66.4 on the work bike on one side of the hub and 79 on the other... i'd say around 70-75 works really well in my experience, but if you're trying to learn to spin at really high RPM's you can throw out this advice because i'm just speaking for around town riding in general. on my nice bike i run 75" and it's an absolute pleasure to ride, just about the best i've found for going up hills/not killing the knees, and not spinning out on the way back down.

     

    http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/rabbit.applet.html this is a nice little calculator for figuring out speeds at certain RPM's with your gear ratio, as well as a few other things.

  9. well looks like my rim is fine even if there's a new hole in it. a piece of rim tape to patch the hole and no flats/catastrophic failures yet. let's hope this lasts.

     

    something tells me the PDX rain is going to come back regularly any week now. it was misty day today but i liked it alot. it's nice to ride and not be dripping in sweat.

  10. need some fast advice before work tomorrow if anyone's on here... i got a really nasty flat tire today which resulted in a screw tearing through the tire, tube and into the rim, where it put a little hole about the size of a spoke/valve hole in my rim. besides the cosmetic damage and the fact that it'll need to be smoothened out / retaped over, is this going to ruin the integrity of my rim or can i get away with riding it out for a month or three?

  11. whoiseuth - my friend put that same setup on his bike, swapping out some stock stuff for the thomson. noticeably lightened things up... thomson is the shit and i love zero setback on my seatpost (although it's a little ugly compared to classic posts like the campy aero, but oh well, performance wins this time i guess).

  12. swedish: i was just curious for curiousity's sake, i don't have the funds to buy some race wheels right now let alone a geared bike (otherwise that casati would be mine :)). i plan on getting into longer group rides fixed this fall with a cycling team, and track racing next season when it starts again at alpenrose. for now i'm riding handbuilt velocity aeroheads laced to dura ace hubs with double butted dt swiss spokes on my nice track bike and loving it. if/when i get serious about track i'd likely buy some araya gold tubular wheels and tufo tires for the light weightness... but yeah, i'm not sure if i ever plan on doing formal road racing, i just see track for the formal and alleycats for the informal/fun in my future.

  13. Swedish, what road wheel did you have in mind? Light weight and aerodynamics usually seem to be polar opposites unless you're buying a $2000 Zipp wheelset, atleast from what I've seen when looking at wheels because lightweight usually = low profile whereas aero is a deep v profile and subsequently heavier unless it's carbon. Maybe I'm forgetting about low spoke wheelsets?

  14. escoUbastid, i rented the trek 2200 on vacation, hated it. but that's me. get an 80's road bike from craigslist for 5-600, you'll probably end up getting a better deal that way but if you don't know shit about bikes, have a knowledgeable friend come with you when you pick it up to make sure everything is cool. i swear i gave out the exact same advice 5 or 10 pages ago. FOR EXAMPLE: http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/bik/412828074.html . someone please buy this. i was, but just don't have the funds to do it and than have to change out the derailleurs / shifters a month in (not a fan of downtube shifters / friction shifting, but inconveniently i have a deep affection for classic italian steel).

     

    and joker, i gotta say i'm with you on those flip n clip bars. these are what i like best in the city and they're noticeably better than 2 blue bars above:

    rb021_02.jpg

    good old pursuit bars, a.k.a. bullhorns.

     

    has anyone used rollers much for winter training / improving pedal technique? i just ordered a set off performance and i'm pretty stoked, it's starting to near that time in oregon where the rain starts back up and although i like a rainy day ride, when it gets so bad that i can't see anything because all the rain drops are going right into my eyes, i stay inside and wait for sun.

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