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Old Cans Of Paint, Serious Collectors


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I was wondering why he wasn't considering completed listings, too.

 

I will tell people whatever I can to get them to hold cans. The people I deal with are busy with antique furniture and more widely collected antiques, etc. Even if I tell them the possibilities of selling collectible cans, half of them will still throw them away.

Nobody gives a fuck except for us.

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I'm going to start transitioning from ig to here.  So tired of that format, but for those that want to see more of my collection find me @theoldhabits    

Not a collector by any means, but I picked this up a little while back from an estate sale. Any idea where I could get more info about it? The back shows an address in Springfield, MA.    

I took this pick July 2001 and a little over a month later I posted it on here.   The first pic, hard to think that was 18years ago...  

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at an estate sale today found 4 cans of 1965 derusto sea foam green paper label, full with matching metal caps, no rust.

 

i'm not a collector, but they seem like these would be an example of a can thats worth hanging on to?

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I guess the Scotch-gard cans must have used both kinds of caps. This is the first Jifoam style cap I've seen on one, the other 4 or 5 I've seen have had the old school "ridge cap" style fat caps. Then again I always check every style of old household cleaner and have a few no name brands that also used the Jifoam as a stock. Such a treat to pop the cap and find one. Those caps are so comfortable. I'm wondering if that was also a major factor over the standard ridge caps for painting large areas. Anyone remember how much those early German gray banana skinnys (early/mid 90s), used to dig into the edges of your index fingers?

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I guess a modern equivalent would be a pink or orange dot euro fat. For the 70's and 80's, that was considerably fatter than a stock tip. I can understand why jifoams were highly regarded.

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Pink and orange are fatter with a heavier spray I think. You have used these caps Hal haven't you?

 

It's been a couple years, but yeah. As i remember, they felt similar to one of those older orange dot euro fats, the ones with the wide ridges and the lip at the bottom of the cap. Or those blue dot fats with the wide ridges that came on graffiti remover sprays. I always thought those were a lot like orange or pink dot caps.

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I can't keep up with caps one bit. I guess I ought to explore them all, but it's too much hassle to remember them all, and then go looking for them. Rusto or NY fat for fats, and either a yellow universal or the 94 skinny/stock for skinnys. Anyone have any favorable preference to any other specific one that's worth trying. Actually hats off to the Boston thin too for making a great cap for Rustos...

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Just me personally, but i basically stick with NY Fats for fills and those clear yellow german caps for linework. If it's big or solid fill, I might use these all black fatcaps the shop in town sells called Beast Fats. They're basically just huge fats like the Astro Fats or gold ones, and empty a can in under 5 minutes. I discovered that they produce the smoothest fades ever when you're in the fill stage, and can cut over all the mess with your outline.

astrofat2.jpg

 

There are so many caps now. I've taken to saving one of each new cap i find, because I expect most to fade away over time. It would be a nice little display for a museum, if there ever were a graffiti museum like the Baseball Hall of Fame. We're at a time where the culture is exploding, and so many products are available that all serve the same purpose. I'll guess that 60% of the products available now will be discontinued in 10 years.

 

I used to use a lot of grey dots with old valve Krylon. Now, with the euro paint, I want a very crisp line, so i stick with those yellow germans. I was on a kick for a while with cutting down the stem on NY Thins, but sometimes they still don't work right. If i could have a NY Thin diffuser with a stem compatible for european valves, that would be ideal. I like a medium width line, like those grey german caps with the blue center, but none of the available euro caps spray clean enough. Beige dots are great, but only work well with Montana Gold and sometimes Molotow. The altitude up here in Denver really screws with caps and spray pressure, so everything sprays like it's been sitting in the sun up here.

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I enjoyed using the old grey german banana caps on old valve krylon, it made for nice flared hands and crisp lines. I've tried the beige caps on damn near every type of can I've painted with and have had it work wonderfully with Montana, Molotow, Ironlak, Fresh Paint and Beat, sometimes I'd have to fidget with em to get em working on Alien though.

The can killer caps do make for big, consistent fades, but I use the beige guys regularly, maybe I just have a weird fade technique.

^That cap you just posted is very aesthetically pleasing, judging by the rounded edges, it looks like a damn comfortable cap to use.

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Thanks guys... All good info. Hal you're dead right about how much will fade away over a few years time. I really look at all my cans sometimes and think, well I can't take them with me, and really, I'd love to just sit and chill in a permanent graffiti museum some day, and see the reactions of folks just walking in and freaking out over an insane collection of preserved artifacts of the culture. Even if we all pooled our dup's into a donation. The day will come, I'm certain of that.

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That astro fat is the same as a pink dot or any of those other hooded euro tips as far as the outer structure. I think they're pretty comfortable.

 

Beige dots are great at sea level, but a bit dusty with most brands at +5000ft. The MTN 94 stocks are useless up here.

 

The only cap i can get to work consistently with Evolve, Ironlak, Fresh Paint etc is a NY Fat. Those yellow thins don't work at all for me.

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That's really interesting HAL.

 

I pretty much use almost entirely US paint for bulk fills, (being thrifty), and reserving my long time fav - Belton, or now 94 for outlines/detail work. I just went to outline a new piece on Sat and the line from the stock 94s which I've loved in the past was awful, certainly not clean cut at the sides by any means. Now you got me thinking about reverting back to yellow skinnys based on your super flat/sharp work and details. All I'm looking for is a decent line with the minimal amount of cap headaches.

 

When living in CO back in the late 90s early 00s I remember the grey banana skinnys working ok on the Walmart Fashion Satin line before they killed that. Certain colors were the bomb, and I wish that stuff was still around. Sherwin Krylons I can't remember what worked best. I know for sure the altitude fucked with everything, but on the flip side it worked out tops coming from the UK and being used to a bender being around 8-9 pints rapidly went down to about 3-4 pints! Hey a cheap date!!

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I've been sticking with Evolve and Fresh Paint for fills. I think it's fairly cheap and the color range is much broader than Rusto, plus the valve is ok and I can interchange caps. Those rusto adapters spray terrible up here in Denver. Every cap is dusty as hell and the pressure is so high. It's workable in cold weather, but once April rolls around, forget it. The stock tip isn't much different than what i get out of a NY Thin. Rusto colors seem so bland to me now. I must be spoiled by all the fancy colors.

 

I remember the Fashion Satin cans disappearing in the mid-late 90's on the east coast. I used to really like the Cobalt Blue.

 

Last time I went to visit family in Connecticut I went out for drinks that first night and hardly got a buzz on 4 beers. It went away after a couple days, unfortunately.

 

Back in the Rusto/Krylon days I would only use NY Thins and Rusto fats, pretty much. Some grey dots for Krylon when those came out. NY Thins are still my favorite. I prefer MTN 94 and Molotow for outlines, but Clash has grown on me over the past year. It's a bit cheaper and sprays really well. Spia Yellow is really opaque for a yellow, and very bright.

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