destroya

the particular franchise may close down, you fucking moron.

what about the people that work in these corporations and run shit in the franchises? if a building is bombed consistently, past cleaning it being cost effective (such as constant etching), it may cut pay or close down, thes putting the employees in really fucked up situations. remember, just about every "goliath corporation" started off as a "mom and pop."

there was more pilot than garvey, so what you see is the pilot ink. the garvey just kinda sat there, not staining the plastic. in otherwords, you'd be better off with just pilot than the garvey. i'd suggest mixing the pilot with nero if you want it to stain plastic. also, with the nero+garveyt, there was more garvey than nero, which, i believe, just watered it down (in terms of staining plastic). that's the marker i intend to use dually.

i don't get this shit. from what i gather, the more money the company has, the more pressure they put on the cops to get whoever's doing it.

on wood and plastic, garvey gave me terrible results, i was able to make it completely disappear with alcohol-based hand sanitizer. but with metal, i used a stronger solution, and was barely able to put a dent in it.as of right now, i'd say to stick to metal with your garvey, and use nero or something on other things. opinion subject to change, with or without notice. http://img33.photobucket.com/albums/v98/destroya/Apr25260.jpg'> nero + garvey - pilot + garvey - straight garvey http://img33.photobucket.com/albums/v98/destroya/Apr25262.jpg'> straight nero all on the same plastic cd rack

:lol: it's not bad enough for you to be wack, but you have to be wack and conceited. http://www.lookatvideo.com/pub/inter/nigga.JPG'>

Re: You fuckin Coot...You go to hell and you die,Coot.. :lol:

Re: I'm from New York ,so I know everything.. that shit is garbage. honestly.

ew.

did you shake it?

the best flares come from heavy usage. go write on something. and flaring a tip gives it a wider, yet generally less-crisp look.

the large zigs (postermans and woodcrafts) have leaked on me, but i've never had a problem with the zig glue markers...

" i dont know what to say. if i were you, i would just quit graffiti and save myself all the humiliation. not even my first throwies were that bad....."

ha-ha, very funny, you cocksucker.

cease the retardation. it's chinese, you braindead mongrels. and yeah, some of you people are wasting your inks by putting all of this shit into it. you want it to stain, but your handstyles are probably terrible. about the eraser nib stuff, it's not that hard. folded nib - "[" other eraser strip - "-" add them together = "E" do you get it now, or should one of us just do it for you? if all else fails, copy the description by hand onto a piece of paper, maybe that will trigger your last firing synapse. magnums are the best thing a new writer can use. if you're a new writer, don't utilize drips.

anybody know what (that's easily attainable in the us) can be added to nero to make it more opaque without affecting it's staining power much?

i would.

that's exactly what i'm using now, and they're working fine. i have one with a flared nib and one without, both with a mixture of otr flowpen ink and nero d'inferno. did you by any chance get glue on the nib? somehow dent the nib? that can be done by flipping the nib over and pressing it down, then returning it to it's normal position, or trying to use the bottom of the nib to write with. if those aren't apparently the cause, what ink are you using? on a similar note, is it me, or are the nibs made of a different material? it seems to me that the normal zigs are cloth-like, while the zig glue pens are more like plastic...

this might help.

i don't know about fiebings, but wd40 makes my nose sad. on the topic of how thick it is; will it flow through a miniwide?

why is it not a street bombing ink? and what can you compare the smell to?

for anyone who has used nero; how opaque is it? is it ok to use straight or should i add some other black ink?

i've used flowpen ink, and it worked fine, but i hear h2b relatively thick, and i don't want to fuck up my marker. anyone know for sure?

it'll probably flow like milk through a lactose-intolerant man. maybe if you want to scratch shit up at the same time.

streak ingredients; Cas: 111-76-2 RTECS #: KJ8575000 Name: ETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOBUTYL ETHER.BP: ANDgt;336F,ANDgt;169C.VP: 0.6 @ 77F. VAP DENS: 4.1. % Wt: 10-54 OSHA PEL: 50 PPM, S ACGIH TLV: 25 PPM, S ------------------------------ Name: ING 1: EVAP RATE: ANDlt;0.1 (BUTYL ACETATE=1). FL PT/METH: 142F,61C/TCC. OSHA PEL: N/K (FP N) ACGIH TLV: N/K (FP N) ----------------------------- Cas: 84-74-2 RTECS #: TI0875000 Name: DIBUTYL PHTHALATE (SARA 313) (CERCLA) % Wt: 2 OSHA PEL: 5 MG/M3 ACGIH TLV: 5 MG/M3 EPA Rpt Qty: 10 LBS DOT Rpt Qty: 10 LBS ------------------------------ Cas: 13463-67-7 RTECS #: XR2275000 Name: TITANIUM DIOXIDE % Wt: 0-24 OSHA PEL: 15 MG/M3 TDUST ACGIH TLV: 10 MG/M3 TDUST ------------------------------ Cas: 1333-86-4 RTECS #: FF5800000 Name: CARBON BLACK % Wt: 0-8 OSHA PEL: 3.5 MG/M3 ACGIH TLV: 3.5 MG/M3 ------------------------------ Cas: 16013-44-8 Name: PIGMENT, BONE RED; (PIG RED CI15865-4) % Wt: 0-3 OSHA PEL: N/K (FP N) ACGIH TLV: N/K (FP N) ------------------------------ Cas: 5567-16-7 Name: PIGMENT YELLOW 83; (PIG YELLOW CI 83) (MFR'S CAS #5567-15-7) % Wt: 0-3 OSHA PEL: N/K (FP N) ACGIH TLV: N/K (FP N) ----------------------------- Cas: 9004-36-8 Name: CELLULOSE ACETATE BUTYLATE AND INGREDIENT 9 % Wt: ANDlt;36.5 OSHA PEL: N/K (FP N) ACGIH TLV: N/K (FP N) ------------------------------ Name: KETONE RESIN % Wt: ANDlt;36.5 OSHA PEL: N/K (FP N) ACGIH TLV: N/K (FP N) happy manufacturing.