shai

^never seen that one before....it looks like a deodorant till you open it up, and the price is right. i'll have to check it out. thanks. here's a gem i found...i went to office max a while ago to buy toner for the copier at work, and came across these, believe it or not... [attachmentid=20897] it had glass chalk in it, and they had about twenty of them on the shelf. since they were $1.99, i bought a few (on the company tab- thanks, guys) and tried them out. i put some marsh in one and took a walk. it works as well as any other flowpen i've tried. here, take a look... [attachmentid=20899] this is with montana on paper. it drips pretty well if you juice it, just not here. the tip is still in good shape after some use, but i don't use pens like this on rough surfaces since i like a clean line for chisel tags. i'd like to find out who distributes these bodies so i could buy them in bulk..i'll have to look into that. it sure beats paying eight bucks for an otr, though, if you're cheap like me and willing to put in the work.

thanks...i'm glad my girlfriend is an artist too, and understands my obsession. she doesn't write, but she knows what krink is now and why style is more important than technique...we saw a tag tonight and she said, "that's not very good, is it? it doesn't really flow together, it looks like a little kid did it." and, she's probably right.

it'll work, but it's not cost effective or permanent. you could add liquid rit dye, but... get something solvent based- look around at some sites that sell graff supplies. if you want to use a water based ink, here's a recipe i came up with to paint with- i wanted an ink i could use in the studio that wouldn't make me dizzy, and still have the same drips and opacity of what i use on the street. here it is- 2 parts sumi ink (for japanese brush painting- it's cheap and all art stores have it) 1 part black fluid acrylic (make sure it's FLUID) 1 part black liquid clothing dye a spoonful of powder copier toner (optional, it flattens the finish) put it all in a bottle and shake it for a few minutes, then let it sit for a bit to let it settle. put it in a clean pen. you could bomb with this, but if it gets wet it'll fuck up, plus it's easy to buff. also, go back through this thread and look at some of the other stuff people use, if you haven't already.

[attachmentid=20894] here's some more...these are my favorites- metal bodies and valves, and the black one has a screw on cap. probably made in the sixties or seventies, and they're as good as new. if anyone has any flomaster pens, inks or tips, any size or color, that they'll part with for cash or trade, i'm looking...

[attachmentid=20891] here's some old pens i found...except for the glass pen they all work. i've had the bolt pen and the ultra for years, unfortunately i lost my mini, though. i'm still looking for it or a replacement.

[attachmentid=20886] ...and the museum- someone traded me all the glass markers for a painting. he was happy, but i was ecstatic. that's all, folks.

part 2....fine arts... [attachmentid=20885]

i finally cleared out the studio, and learned how to get by on photoshop today- i feel like it was a productive sunday, so, without further ado, here's the pics.. bottom floor... [attachmentid=20882] and top floor. [attachmentid=20883] believe it or not, this is maybe half of what i once had...i had a yard sale and gave a lot of extras away when i moved, because i got fed up with lugging it around everywhere. so i kept the best, left the rest... after all, it's not like i paid for most of it. there's a couple more shots to follow.

i heard that mixing etch with some stuff can make some fumes or somethin that can fuck you up, i don't know if it's true or not but thats what i heard Quoted post [/b] etch bath is hydrofluoric acid. here's a link with info. RISK ASSESSMENT: USE OF HYDROFLUORIC ACID i wouldn't use this stuff even if you paid me. and, the idea of someone using it who has no idea how dangerous it is is sobering, to say the least. think about etch being to graff the same way steroids are to baseball- of course, there's short term results, but you know it's wrong... plus, you'll get caught someday, and your teammates won't like you in the meantime since you make them look bad too. it's just better to leave it alone, i can't stress that enough. it's done more to hurt graff than further it, since 90% of the time, it's small business owners who get hit....because, generally, people who etch windows don't care about the rules of engagement, like leaving mom and pops alone. and, it usually costs $1500 to $3000 to replace a plate glass window. that's an automatic felony, right there. so, if i haven't talked you out of it by now, please don't bring it up on this thread again. thanks.

as far as the bleach additive, it's your call. but, i still don't understand the whole brake fluid thing. i took a fair bit of chemistry a million years ago, and still i read up on it now and then. as far as i can tell, dot 3 brake fluid is mostly a compound called ethylene glycol, which is an antifreeze. here's a chart i found.... TYPICAL PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES PENNZOIL® SUPER HEAVY-DUTY BRAKE FLUID TEST METHOD TYPICAL RESULTS Equilibrium Reflux Boiling Point-447°F Wet E. R. Boiling Point-294°F Kinematic Viscosity@ -40°C cSt @ 100°C 1.9 cSt pH-9.7 Effect on Brake Cups @70°C-None Effect on Rubber @120°C-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization Low Temperature Appearance-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization Water Tolerance-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization Compatibility with Other-No Stratification, Sludging, Sedimentation or Crystallization DOT 3 Brake Fluid Oxidation Resistance-Excellent Corrosivity-Nil the two things that interest me are pH and corrosivity. the corrosivity is listed as nil, and, at 9.7, the pH isn't high enough to do much. here's a pH chart for comparison. pH Conc. H+ Example 0 10,000,000 Battery acid Most acidic 1 1,000,000 Hydrochloric acid 2 100,000 Lemon juice 3 10,000 Orange juice 4 1,000 Acid rain 5 100 Black coffee 6 10 Saliva 7 1 Distilled water Neutral 8 0.1 Salt water 9 0.01 Baking soda 10 0.001 Milk of magnesia 11 0.0001 Ammonia solution 12 0.00001 Soapy water 13 0.000001 Oven cleaner 14 0.0000001 Liquid drain cleaner Most alkaline however, bleach (lye, same ingredient as oven and drain cleaner) has a very high pH, at 13.0. and, if you put undiluted bleach directly on your clothes, it will burn holes in them pretty quickly. so, i think that must be what's eating into the signs, unless there's a chemical i missed in brake fluid, or some kind of interaction with the ink you're using i didn't know about. oh, btw- in addition to being careful with bleach, don't add potassium permanganate to ethylene glycol. this link will show you why. Potassium Permanganate Hypergolic Reaction To Ethylene Glycol seeing as how i overlooked the basic properties of bleach, i'll do a little more research later to see if there's something i missed with brake fluid, then post what i find here. and, in case i bored anyone, sorry... but, if i can prevent someone from blowing their face off, it's worth it.

the active ingredient in bleach is sodium hypochlorite (lye). i don't think it would have any purpose as an additive. i do know that it is notoriously unstable, and if you mix it with certain chemicals (ammonia, aluminum compounds) it can fulminate (create chlorine gas), and that's enough of a reason not to try it. one thing you could do with bleach is put it in an old, cleaned out paint pen and experiment with it...i made some cool t-shirts this way. i guess you could get up on awnings....dark wood...seems interesting, but i'll leave it to someone else to try out.

i have garvey and marsh.....pm me.

^and stay away from etch, it's wrong, wrong, wrong...if you HAVE to do it, only on multinational corporate headquarters... never on small businesses. it's a great way to get into the legal system...

i just put bleach in my washer...brightens my whites.

Candy ink is an ink as i stated before that has very strong staining power it starts staining the second it is applied to any surface. The ink by nature tends to evaporate when outside of its original container so if you have it USE IT! I can recall a time when i had a mini OTR full of it, I left it sitting in the back of my closet while waiting to sell it to somebody and wheni went to retrieve it two weeks later it was empty. Because it is an insider secret most people dont know about it and as such cannot give you correct info on the matter. Ill try to get some pictures of it in action sometime soon. Quoted post [/b] is there anyway to tweak candy ink to get it to be more weathrproof/lightfast? i used it back in the bushopper days...way before i knew of anything besides that and pilot. i love the colors, but watching your tags fade over a period of days is frustrating, you know. i know where there's a ton of it (i'm pretty sure you know the spot, too, i think) but i've passed on it in favor of garvey recently- it runs forever and it stains just as well, but there's only two colors. pm me if you want, i've been meaning to ask you about this...also, can it be used as a tint for rolmark? my guess is that it would work.

it's one thing to hear about it... it's another thing entirely to see it done- it's pretty awesome. there's also the tupperware pen, too- that's insanity, it's like a drippy foot-wide chisel tip. i have a flick of a white truck with a twist tag done with one of these- i'll look for it after work.

man, that's some flashback shit. i think i made one of these in the 8th grade...didn't work out...reverted to magnums and cheap cans. now, who's gonna break out with the vhs pen tip? will it be me? i'll bet no one's heard of these steez yet...stay tuned. i might just make one to prove that it can be done.

that crossed my mind, too. most euro inks i've seen are alcohol based, which look good but are not long-lasting outdoors. however, these guys seem to know what they're talking about....my only concern would be quality control, i.e. knowing if they had it formulated and professionally made or if it was whipped up in a bucket in someone's back yard...with some good batches and some not so good. if i get it i'll post up a little review on it....does anyone know if grog can this be bought in the states (domestically)? let me know.

the cheapest way to get up permanently- find some alkyd paint. sometimes, paint/hardware store have mistints they sell dirt cheap- sometimes. second best is a hi-hide outdoor enamel. once you have some paint, get a water bottle with a closable top. any squeeze bottle will do, really. pour some into the bottle, and put the cap back on. squeeze the bottle and see how fast it comes out. slower- more control. faster- dries sooner. anyway, this can be used for sidewalk tags, and if you hold the bottle 90 degrees to a surface, it's a kind of messy, drippy paint pen. the cool thing about alkyd is that it turns to plastic as it dries...and lasts a really long time. you may not dig it at first, but as you get the hang of it you'll adapt tags to the medium- cursive and scrolls are fun this way. if you want to make a big tag, use the same paint. go find an old broom or a mop, and use it as a brush- don't skimp on the paint, be ghetto fabulous. streets and intersections are fun this way but the tag never dries before cars obliterate it. have fun, and don't worry about what everyone else thinks. if they ask, tell 'em you're in art school and this is your pollock period.... that'll shut them up.

^the best hand cleaner i've ever used was made by phil wood- it's made specifically for bike shops. it's totally nontoxic and doesn't dry out your hands. it gets 95% of the crap off of them, too. find it at http://www.performancebike.com. it's $6 for a 16 oz. tub, and is easily worth twice that. my broke ass uses a two step process- first, i put vegetable oil on my hands and scrub them. then, i use some boraxo and dish soap to wash off the crud. it's an 8 out of 10...the phil stuff even removes stains- 9 out of ten. damn, i'm buying some tomorrow.....

i thought he was referring to a stock ink....i have a blend that i don't feel ready to share here yet. that blend does sound pretty strong, though....i don't really understand the purpose of adding brake fluid. i've done it myself, and didn't notice any change for better or worse- toner does flatten ink out well, though. plus, i can't get corio in the states. i've heard it's similar to montana ink. i've seen some weird shit online but most of the sites that carry stuff i've never heard of (and therefore would like to try ) are in swedish or italian, and since i'm a dumb american, i can't read them and google won't translate some of them. i am planning to get some grog, though. if it's what it claims to be, i may stock it, but i need to see it to believe it. and, yeah, copper mesh? what's the story?

^or, i forgot...any oil will work for oil based mediums- linseed would be my first choice...art stores have it. in theory, you could use olive, vegetable or mineral (baby) oil. i've never tried it, but....you're better off with thinner or spirits of some kind. if it's the health problems that concern you, use common sense- gloves and ventilation are two precautions you can take. try to find out what your medium is made with, and use alike or similar solvents. and, use a little bit at a time and test it to see if it gets streaky- if it does, add more paint or ink. it just takes practice and patience, you'll get it.

what do you recommend? i'd like to try some of THAT...i use garvey based on ten years of experience, and i like garvey for the effects... it does different things on different surfaces. plus, i don't know anyone else who makes a purple ink that's permanent. seriously, if you have something better, i want to know about it.

mine would always come out brown or green...how did you get grey?

[attachmentid=20655] hey spade, i got your pm, and it's here....and, to anyone else who's interested in garvey, pm me. operators are standing by....